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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Quick question, who here is running solid steering bushings on 2015+ swapped rack in LGT OR B? I already swapped mine on the OEM rack for prothane and it came in a kit of four halves but for example Torque Solutions’ solid bushing kit for 2015+ rack only has three! Am I missing something here? Couldn’t find any info in Underdog’s thread pertaining to my issue. Thx
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Temps dropped to 40 during the day max and we had first snow dusting today.

 

 

 

Took Falcon Azenis Rt660s off, put winter tires on. Did some WOT test drive around town at night, all is good.

 

 

Gas smell is non-existent if tank is at 3/4 or below. With full tank there is a strong smell. Will keep gasoline level low until the sprint time.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Finishing up a turbo/intercooler/injector swap today. Going to change the oil, drain and fill ATF and refill the coolant system. Anyone have tips on filling/burping the coolant system to avoid air pockets?

 

Thinking I will refill the radiator then turbo coolant tank, then run it with the turbo reservoir cap off and give the top radiator hose a squeeze to get air out. I've seen people mention using a no-spill funnel but is it necessary?

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Finishing up a turbo/intercooler/injector swap today. Going to change the oil, drain and fill ATF and refill the coolant system. Anyone have tips on filling/burping the coolant system to avoid air pockets?

 

Thinking I will refill the radiator then turbo coolant tank, then run it with the turbo reservoir cap off and give the top radiator hose a squeeze to get air out. I've seen people mention using a no-spill funnel but is it necessary?

 

The no spill funnel helps avoid smells if it burps and splashes on turbo or DP. Alot cleaner job IMO. Your turbo coolant tank is the highest point on system.

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Apparently it's because there are two possible diameters that you might need so they include both sets. I have just received my Prothane "total bushing kit" from the States as they were the only manufacturer that seemed to do every bush in a matching shore strength, plus the graphite impregnated ones seemed like less trouble long term with re-lubing. It came with the front TCA bushes, steering rack bushes and rear diff front mounts. The seller had the ARB (sway bar) bushes and rear trailing and lateral arm bushes in the item description and pictures. When I contacted them they updated the item pictures and description but now i can't even find the rear bushes separately on the Prothane website.
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Posted in the 2022 Wagon Meet Up thread, so copypasta here:

 

Are any of you in the PNW interested in attending Hot Import Nights in Portland this Saturday (Dec. 4) night from 5-11pm?

 

Here's all the info: https://hotimportnights.com/2021/11/...r-portland-or/

 

I'll be personally reaching out to a couple members that aren't on here much anymore to try and gather the masses. Pending responses I get here, I'll put something together for a plan to drive down for those in WA. Nathan, if work doesn't keep you, you should rally the troops in OR and meet us at the event.

 

Let me know what yall are thinking. Let's make it happen!

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Funny…I need to pay more attention living in Portland.

 

Family in town so the event would be tough but if there is an early meet up I am definitely interested!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Went through the car and double checked all the bolts and clamps from the new turbo/intercooler install. Just waiting on a base map to fire the car up and burp the coolant. I was thinking about going for it but I upgraded the injectors from stock to DW 740's, don't know if it would start and probably wouldn't be the best for the plugs.
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Swapped two sets of winter tires on last night, new studded Nokian Nordman 7s on my wife's car, and the old x-ice xi3s on my car.

 

I was disappointed to see that the paint is already bubbling on my quick rust repair (sanded to bare metal and repainted, but its coming from inside the panel). I was hoping it would last through the winter but I guess not. At least the bubbles are very small and I can probably grind and por-15 them pretty quickly and touch up with paint pen.

 

Anybody use the Subiesaver rear arch panels? Not sure if I should order those, or just leave it up to the body shop to figure out their preferred method.

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Ask the bodyshop about getting them those panels. Then find out what the cost is for them to replace them...$$$$.

 

I'm going to guess $2-3000CAD to weld in the patch panels and blend the paint. I could probably find somebody on Kijiji (like Craigslist for Canada, except for Vancouver, which actually uses Craigslist) for $500 per side. There seem to be a few pretty good quality home-based body guys doing cut outs and blends, even with warranty (whatever that means on a home-based business).

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Been busy with other car/work/life stuff so haven't been around. Rear tires are getting eaten up by wonky alignment issues so got the kta124 finally on black Friday sale so I can get rear toe all the way to zero. Trailing arm bushings soon as well so then all suspension soft parts will have been replaced and should finally stop killing tires.

 

Does anyone know the sizes of bolt and nut I could use to replicate the whiteline kca307? Bolts are mostly free but I'm concerned about them being frozen to the bushing.

 

Also found rust on the quarter. Booooo.5cdc3f20a58c5612491d5eebb16a508c.jpg

 

 

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warmed her up today after 1 month sitting. Drove it around 2 laps and keep asking myself why did I even post on offerup? I did get 1 serious potential buyer. If it doesnt sell by next black friday, itll be on a mission to get new shortblock, and 6 speed swap. Meanwhile, I will test drive a new honda civic hatchback, as I get older, i need something easy to load/unload my bowling equipment :lol:

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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Been busy with other car/work/life stuff so haven't been around. Rear tires are getting eaten up by wonky alignment issues so got the kta124 finally on black Friday sale so I can get rear toe all the way to zero. Trailing arm bushings soon as well so then all suspension soft parts will have been replaced and should finally stop killing tires.

 

Does anyone know the sizes of bolt and nut I could use to replicate the whiteline kca307? Bolts are mostly free but I'm concerned about them being frozen to the bushing.

 

Also found rust on the quarter. Booooo.5cdc3f20a58c5612491d5eebb16a508c.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Just go to your local dealers web site look up the OEM parts and buy from them. I bought all the rear suspension bolts, nuts and washers so the trusted mechanic had everything he could have needed. It wasn't that much money and I got the correct bolts to handle the loads.

 

 

That plastic bag on top of the NAPA boxes is the bag of hardware.

DSCN9265.thumb.JPG.8407ac9b6d78b0fdb9f642d3a0efa5ff.JPG

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That's what I did. $45 worth of hardware for 8 bolts. The real problem is with supply chain issues atm and buying through the dealer, I have no idea how long it's going to take. Especially if they have another dealer send them usps. Last parts I ordered I ended up canceling after a month of waiting.

 

Alternatively the local mom and pop hardware store has an amazing selection of nuts and bolts at 1/3rd the price. Flanged, 10.9, the whole deal. But even with the bolt seized in place I don't feel safe driving down there with hardware missing to check thread pitches.

 

 

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Ok, because its warm out today, 56F I went out to the shed. Here's what I bought, and have leftover, I also have a big nut leftover from years ago.

 

DSCN9667.thumb.JPG.a68ee45ca5603b7e45eebd20220f6785.JPG

 

DSCN9665.thumb.JPG.b8cd34f9c79a46df9e121a55b9001d94.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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A long weekend of work and a long list of things that I replaced.

 

-Rebuilt both OEM axles

-New OEM Ball Joints

-Whiteline anti-lift kit

-Resurfaced rotors

-New Brembo brake pads

-STi steering linkage

-Changed the fluid on the 6MT

-New OEM dustshields

-New Timkin wheel bearings.

 

Glad it's back on the ground. Took it for a very short drive today, the car feels very tight. The brakes feel better than they ever have.

 

I haven't driven the car much at all this year. I've only logged 160 miles since I last put gas in it in April, which is pretty pathetic for how well this car drives.

 

The car is due for a timing belt change soon. Hard for me to believe but it's been 80k and ten years since it was rebuilt.

1013381150_LGT12_6_21.thumb.jpg.6b6ab4a79cd02c659de12f0eb1c52ae9.jpg

Edited by Holla
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