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Febreze Mee's Wagon Build Thread (Heiress)

Febreze Mee

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Hey y'all! I'm stoked to introduce my recent acquisition of a single-owner, meticulously maintained, lower mileage Outback. We're back again with the next version of my previous 2.5i. This time, with a black interior and mated to a 5spd manual transmission.


I am the 2nd owner of this 2006 Obsidian Black Pearl Outback 2.5i Limited. Picked her up in March of 2021 with 117,XXX on the clock. With the my previous 2.5i turning 186K on the clock and needing hefty engine and trans work, I took the money I'd have spent on it and went car shopping. I've said I will always have Legacy/Outback wagon in my fleet. Having made the time to look and wait, after 6 months of patience I found this one down in Oregon. Most parts have been transferred over, and a ton more added to.


I specifically sought out a 2006 2.5i 5MT wagon in OBP or SWP. I did so to enjoy the car without the added headache and maintenance costs that come with owning the OBXTs and LGTs. There were 169 models in my color and trim produced for 2005MY, and similar numbers for the 2006MY. With just over three per state, on average, I got exactly what I wanted.


I will continue to build/maintain this car for daily duty, spirited driving on the mountain roads, sitting pretty at [insert grocery store here], and performing reliably while doing all of the above. Here she is, all PN#s in parenthesis:



- 2017 STi steering rack

  • Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings (KSR207)
  • MOOG inner tie rods
  • Whiteline roll centre/bump steer correction kit (KCA313)
  • Perrin steering dampener (PSP-SUS-565)

- Control arm bushings

  • Whiteline front LCA bushings (KCA334)
  • Whiteline front LCA bushings (W0506)
  • LGT rear UCAs
  • Whiteline rear UCA bushings (W63396)
  • Whiteline camber correction kit (KCA399)
  • Whiteline rear LCAs (KTA124)

- Transmission

  • STi trans mount (5spd)(D1010FE020)
  • Whiteline cross member bushings (KDT901)
  • Kartboy pitch stop
  • Kartboy F/R shifter bushings (KBU-001)(KB-003)
  • Torque Solutions short shifter (TS-SS-004)

- BP5 STi front strut tower bar

- MOOG F/R endlinks

- Whiteline 20mm rear sway bar (BSR39Z)

- BC Racing BR Series Coilovers (Outback-specific) + Swift Springs 7K/8K



- LGT calipers w/speed bleeders

- Centric LGT rotors (blanks)

- Technafit/Mach V SS braided lines

- HardBrake Titanium brake shims

- Project Mu B Spec pads (front)


Wheels & Tires:

- 18x8 +35 Gunmetal RPF1s (175K)

- 18x8 +51 British Pewter Prodrive PFF7s by Speedline

- 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4Ss (175K)



- Defi DIN-guage Style21 (DF14403)

- Stereo/speakers

  • JDM double din
  • Alpine iLX-W650 receiver
  • Alpine MRV-M250 Mono V-Power amplifier
  • OEM Panasonic subwoofer (H6300SS610)
  • Focal 6.5in 2-way speakers F/R (IC-165)
  • JL 10in subwoofer driver (10W0v3-4)
  • Bassworx single 10in (SWP10B)

- #48 STi Type RA 6spd shift knob (35022VA000)

- STi Aluminum pedal set (C8110FG011)

- BP5 mirror switch

- Universal Fire Extinguisher Seat Mount (SM01BK)

- Extreme Duty Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Bracket (NB300)

- HalGuard Clean Agent Automotive Fire Extinguisher - 2.5lb (HG250B)



- DIY Custom Headlight Housings

- 65-watt 2100-lumen Ultra High Output Vosla (H9 burner on H7 base, race and special-purpose) from Daniel Stern

- 08+ taillights

- Diode Dynamics LED flasher (CF18 standard)

- Diode Dynamics rear taillight LEDs (HP48)

- Diode Dynamics rear turn signal LEDs (HP48)

- Diode Dynamics reverse light LEDs (HP36)



- Fiberglass LGT mesh grille

- Rallye 1000 Hella stone shield covers

- OBXT hood

- Fluidampr (531101)

- Killer B oil pick-up

- Killer B oil baffle

- ADD W1 oil catch can

- Madrig CF extended hoodscoop

- Madrig Fiberglass extended spoiler

- Rally Armor UR mudflaps black urethane (grey logo)

- BP9 power folding mirrors





The first, and only, photo of the car in stock form. Taken on the way back up from taking it off the previous owners hands. Quite the foreshadowing, really. Gold Outback's build thread can be found here:




A week after ownership, Chris (forum member ckwaters) and I took a trip out to Mount St. Helens. We were two of few cars on the roads and we had a blast!








Current wheel/tire setup





Edited by Febreze Mee

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Various parts thrown at the car








Fresh from powdercoat to have the 3x silver match the 2x gunmetal. I had originally bought the last two gunmetal in this size from OAKOS.com (shoutout to Kat and the OAKOS team for the discount discount) I bought 3x silver to finish the set and have a full size spare.



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The beginning in-depth interior teardown, followed by an extensive paint correction process.


Started with replacing broken tabs, and replacing very worn pieces with less worn pieces.




Original 2006MY cubby vents (on top) replaced with 2005MY cubby vents (on bottom). I opted for the 2005MY clock bezel over the 2006MY for the adjustability of the display brightness. Plug n play.




I wiped down all surfaces inside and out of the dash and trim using a 1:1 isopropyl alcohol:water mix. All is not dirt and grime free.





Next to tackle on the list was vacuuming and sorting the rats nest I found under the seats. While rerouting the wires, I made a really rookie mistake by not disconnecting the battery before starting. I ended up touching the floor pan with the power wire to the amp and blew a big fuse. Replaced it the next morning, but found out that I ruined the USB port in the back of the Alpine receiver, and so I couldn't connect my phone to it via USB :spin: Only bluetooth works now, and it bothers me to no end. I have a Sony XAV-AX1000 on stand-by, but it's not been worth my time or energy to swap it out. I've grown to like the iLX-650 and even considered purchasing another just to regain full functionality again. Maybe I could just solder a new USB port in, and my problem will be solved. Help.





I also ditched my plain, black, plastic door sill scuff plates for some Aluminum ones from a 2005MY LGT - both front and rear are now Aluminum.




Nonetheless, it's clean now and it should stay like that a while since I'm the only one ever in the car.






On to the exterior!




Unfortunately, I don't have a covered space to work in.




My RX-7 getting jealous of the attention given to the wagon, in the background.




Results. I am absolutely in love with Obsidian Black Pearl!



Edited by Febreze Mee

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I received a HalGuard automotive fire extinguisher for Christmas yesterday. Here is an installation guide I put together for those interested in the details:









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Taken from H3RPerformance's website:


TL;DR: Annual maintenance, professionally, is required. Hydrostatic testing every 6yrs.


What are the inspection and maintenance requirements?


The UL label on UL listed fire extinguishers directs that you "Install, inspect, maintain and test your fire extinguisher in accordance with the National Fire Protection Assoc. Standard No. 10 "Portable Fire Extinguishers."


The UL label on UL listed fire extinguishers directs that you "Install, inspect, maintain and test your fire extinguisher in accordance with the National Fire Protection Assoc. Standard No. 10 "Portable Fire Extinguishers."


INSPECTION should be performed monthly or more frequently if circumstances dictate. The extinguisher should be checked to see that it is not damaged, the discharge outlet is not blocked, that it is fully charged, the seal is not broken and that the operating instructions are clearly visible.


ANNUAL MAINTENANCE is a more complete inspection of the extinguisher and should be done professionally. It will reveal the need for hydro testing which must be done on Dry Chemical and Halotron I extinguishers every TWELVE YEARS. Most local authorities require special tags be attached to the extinguisher to verify this service.


SIX YEAR MAINTENANCE - Every six years, extinguishers requiring a 12 year hydro test shall be emptied and subject to thorough examination of: mechanical parts, extinguishing agent and expelling means. When applicable maintenance procedures are done during periodic recharging or hydro testing, the six-year requirement will begin from that date.

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Good post. They are just one of those things that we want to work when we need them to but are also often overlooked by most people who's profession/interest does not require the know how/care. Heck even when required most people overlook the inspection lol.


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Nice, great investment, people always ask why I have one in my car.


I got my first question: "Is that a nitrous bottle?"


Question came from a cop standing outside of my driver's side window talking to me. The nozzle was hidden from view, so I don't blame him for a quick-glance question.


I wanted to say "yes, but it's not hooked up" so bad :lol:

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Big update coming in installments! Longer summer season in the PNW this year - whoop! It started in mid-June when the temps began to climb out of the low forties, and ended mid-November (debatable), when the rain and cold temps came back for good. It was a great season of driving and meeting people.

Cascade Loop Rally June 17, 2022 through June 19, 2022


Wagonfest September 24, 2022

Enjoyed a great drive along the Green River on Green Valley Road. A local favorite for ckwaters and myself, we decided to introduce it to tehspud (pictured on the left), and Pleides (pictured on the right; in love with his HYDR8 plate) on our way up to DirtFish for the event.


Got to meet Gex (below) and his beautifully wrapped LGT. Pleasure meeting him and one of his more recent acquisitions. I got to sit in the car and ask all the questions I wanted. Fun fact: His car is how I came to chose my wheel and tire dimensions, it was a bonus that he had RFP1s as it's what I wanted for my car. 


Edited by Febreze Mee
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Went up to Diablo Lake three times this summer.



Put on several drives with good friends every weekend of October.


Closed out the season mid-November with a Dash Point Park Run, rollers, and some lunch at Al's Chicken with the same friends.


Always down to drive! If my odometer isn't evidence enough, the boys are my testament. As long as the pavement is dry, I'm down to drive.

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