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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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zfXnEzE_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&fidelity=high

 

Installed and bled my front Wilwood BBK calipers. I desperately need to clean the car on Monday after all this midsummer rain passes (midsummer in California). What’s not pictured here is all the dirt on side doors, trunk, and front bumper from one highway trip. Good thing I didn’t pull the trigger on installing summer tires yet.

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3d4e08af1b7c2e81c5adfc84d6800466.jpg

 

So I did a thing lastnight. Damn tight fit with the CNT/invidia clone catted downpipe, and the Grimmspeed heat shield no longer fits.

 

EWG isn’t doing boost control yet, that’s a project for this afternoon. IWG will stay in service, but at full throttle will be set to 100% WGDC with the EWG controlled by a Grimmspeed MBC. Keeping both will make things quieter in the 50-90% throttle range, prevent the EWG chuffing sound, and allow me trim the response with the IWG if needed.

 

Turbo spoil and responsiveness is up just from the up-pipe change. The Tomei one that comes with their ELH is laughably oversized.

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Technically yesterday but I got it home today, I bought mine!

It's in incredibly bad shape but I got it for 500$ so its not too bad.

Drove 300km in it and it held up, barely but it did.

Now to give her the love she deserves.

qnbF26j.jpg

Edited by Śkyler
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3d4e08af1b7c2e81c5adfc84d6800466.jpg

 

So I did a thing lastnight. Damn tight fit with the CNT/invidia clone catted downpipe, and the Grimmspeed heat shield no longer fits.

 

EWG isn’t doing boost control yet, that’s a project for this afternoon. IWG will stay in service, but at full throttle will be set to 100% WGDC with the EWG controlled by a Grimmspeed MBC. Keeping both will make things quieter in the 50-90% throttle range, prevent the EWG chuffing sound, and allow me trim the response with the IWG if needed.

 

Turbo spoil and responsiveness is up just from the up-pipe change. The Tomei one that comes with their ELH is laughably oversized.

 

That's a great idea! Keep us posted on how the tuning works out for it. I see a complication in setting both boost controls. On mine, I only have my boost control tables seeing 100% WGDC at spool up. That's about it. If I leave it at 100% all the way up, it overboosts. So the EWG comes in to control the "overboost" situation. IE, anything over your MBC setting will be controlled by the EWG. So if the EWG MBC is set to say, 17psi, then you'd be on the IWG/boost tables for part throttle and anything under 17psi, and once you're over that, say 17-20psi, you're controlling it on the EWG and it's letting the motor breathe better. Am I understanding the system correctly? I'd love to hear impressions on how it drives like that, and what turbo are you using?

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That's a great idea! Keep us posted on how the tuning works out for it. I see a complication in setting both boost controls. On mine' date=' I only have my boost control tables seeing 100% WGDC at spool up. That's about it. If I leave it at 100% all the way up, it overboosts. So the EWG comes in to control the "overboost" situation. IE, anything over your MBC setting will be controlled by the EWG. So if the EWG MBC is set to say, 17psi, then you'd be on the IWG/boost tables for part throttle and anything under 17psi, and once you're over that, say 17-20psi, you're controlling it on the EWG and it's letting the motor breathe better. Am I understanding the system correctly? I'd love to hear impressions on how it drives like that, and what turbo are you using?[/quote']

 

 

 

Wait, are you saying you’re already running a dual wastegate hybrid setup like this as well? Please share details! Would love to hear what you’ve found so far.

 

b2d30a48ec6da6f63f8c85c133653d05.jpg

 

I just got the boost control setup plumbed in a few minutes ago. MBC that runs the EWG is referenced post intercooler to minimize boost taper. IWG is plumbed up like a normal 3-port other than I’m dumping the vent to atmosphere (for now, need new EBCS fittings). Turbo is a BNR Evo3 16g, and it was previously flowing ~320g/sec at ~16psi.

 

With the adjustment all the way out it’s hitting ~8 psi in 1st gear. Will try and set it for 14 psi for the drive home. I’m fighting electrical gremlins so no flow numbers yet, but the Aquamist flow is up even at low boost so that indicates at least higher IDC.

 

edit: Eh, ended up 12.5 in 1st, 13.5 in 4th the first try at adjusting it. It's really not that loud in 1st, but in 4th...

Edited by utc_pyro
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Just got my first Subaru yesterday, 06 Legacy sedan 2.5i 4at. drove it for 50 miles and did the usual new-to-you stuff. Brake pads all round, oil change, and air filter. Put 14 miles on it, going from my shop to my house, and wouldn't you know it a damn brake line bursts. And in typical Southy luck, my driver side muffler fell off and was lost forever, and the passenger side pipe broke off at the Y and was dragging on the ground. Found out it was all held on by a hose clamp.. anyway it was a rear hard line that popped. Blew out right next to the gas tank on Pass side. so I can't just patch in a new piece. Took it to the local guy and I'm having him do all new lines.

 

Today I got an oem catback, I plan to replace the straight bit with 2.25 pipe, add a joint before the Y pipe, sandblast, patch, and paint the entire pipe and mufflers. Thread coming for that.

 

Anyway, here is my first and only picture of the car, 10 miles in and parked next to the Fiance's Yota. Glad to be part of the forum, much love.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/H8yQox1

Edited by Southygarage
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I spoke too soon about my maf sensor issues. When I started the car today it was extremely lean. Nothing I could do with the harness helped and I used two other known good maf sensors with the same issue. I stripped the harness down and I think the factory solder job from the shielded wire to the signal wire is failing as there is glue leaking out.

I reinstalled the oem air intake again and the issue is gone. I believe the issue (besides failing solder) is how the wiring is located with the grimmspeed air intake.

The oem intake gives several inches of straight wires when connected to the maf sensor while the grimmspeed intake only has an inch or two before the wires are bent. The oem intake puts the harness straight directly after the shielded wire solder. The grimmspeed intake has the harness bend clise to the shielded wire solder.

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Got to the airfield today and we got 3 gliders and a tow plane ready for flight just in time for an onslaught of torrential downpours, forcing a cancellation of flying ops for the day. After getting everything packed back up in the rain, I took out my frustration with a casual beheading.

 

tvGHqOcl.jpg

 

Turns out an exhaust valve on Cyl #4 is starting to crack. There's also a minor gouge in one of the exhaust cam bearing surfaces in the 2/4 head. :spin:

 

At this point, I think I'm just going to have my original heads re-built, and put the old motor back in to the car, part out/sell these B25 heads (perhaps rebuild them and sell them as a fresh set), and keep the shortblock as a future project.

 

I couldn't tell where the HGs went bad. Any ideas? I really can't imagine the issues I was having was anything else besides a head gasket (how else would combustion gasses get into the coolant system), but I don't see anything strikingly obvious.

 

Cyl2/4 head:

n7ruLWrl.jpg

 

Cyl1/3 head:

jebrNmql.jpg

 

Cyl2/4 gasket, head-mating side:

XeIaTxZl.jpg

 

Cyl2/4 gasket, block-mating side:

53hryObl.jpg

 

Cyl1/3 gasket, head-mating side:

Zut7lsMl.jpg

 

Cyl1/3 gasket, block-mating side:

fowoaogl.jpg

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Installed and bled my front Wilwood BBK calipers. I desperately need to clean the car on Monday after all this midsummer rain passes (midsummer in California). What’s not pictured here is all the dirt on side doors, trunk, and front bumper from one highway trip. Good thing I didn’t pull the trigger on installing summer tires yet.

 

 

You were ripped off and sold a set of poomlim calipers instead....

 

 

:hide:

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Just got my first Subaru yesterday, 06 Legacy sedan 2.5i 4at. drove it for 50 miles and did the usual new-to-you stuff. Brake pads all round, oil change, and air filter. Put 14 miles on it, going from my shop to my house, and wouldn't you know it a damn brake line bursts. And in typical Southy luck, my driver side muffler fell off and was lost forever, and the passenger side pipe broke off at the Y and was dragging on the ground. Found out it was all held on by a hose clamp.. anyway it was a rear hard line that popped. Blew out right next to the gas tank on Pass side. so I can't just patch in a new piece. Took it to the local guy and I'm having him do all new lines.

 

Today I got an oem catback, I plan to replace the straight bit with 2.25 pipe, add a joint before the Y pipe, sandblast, patch, and paint the entire pipe and mufflers. Thread coming for that.

 

Anyway, here is my first and only picture of the car, 10 miles in and parked next to the Fiance's Yota. Glad to be part of the forum, much love.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/H8yQox1

 

Common problem, there was a recall for it. Some folks who had lines burst report Subaru replacing them for free, though some of us who caught it before failure had no luck.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rusted-rear-brake-lines-subaru-wont-honor-their-recalli-265588.html?t=265588

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zfXnEzE_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&fidelity=high

 

Installed and bled my front Wilwood BBK calipers. I desperately need to clean the car on Monday after all this midsummer rain passes (midsummer in California). What’s not pictured here is all the dirt on side doors, trunk, and front bumper from one highway trip. Good thing I didn’t pull the trigger on installing summer tires yet.

 

Goodness that looks great! What are the wheel specs?

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Just passed 200k miles, love this car...

IMG_6116.thumb.JPG.cff041f5b5d2693b78988b0bb0e94a09.JPG

 

She is running really smooth.

Except when she doesn't want to... :lol:

She can run for days really well then all of a sudden the ECU seems to freak out and cyl 3 misfires constantly.

 

One of two things happens then:

1. Within 15-20 sec, it self corrects and disappears.

2. It stays there until I reset the ECU and cycle the power.

 

I can do the reset and idle relearn immediately and she's good for days/weeks.

I really don't think it's anything mechanical.

New wiring plugs for coil and injector.

Recently cleaned injector (tested 4 different ones).

New coil (tested 3 different ones).

New spark plug.

New orange gaskets.

 

I honestly think the ECU is just flaking out based on the behavior.

I have another one coming from a manual 05 GT.

I did some research on the immobilizer stuff and I think I'm going to try to move the "security" 8-pin chip over to the new ECU.

 

If anyone has another other ideas, I'm open.

I don't mind paying the dealer to reprogram it, but I'm not sure how to work out the logistics of getting it to the dealer if it won't start after I swap the ECU.

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I did some research on the immobilizer stuff and I think I'm going to try to move the "security" 8-pin chip over to the new ECU.

 

If anyone has another other ideas, I'm open.

I don't mind paying the dealer to reprogram it, but I'm not sure how to work out the logistics of getting it to the dealer if it won't start after I swap the ECU.

 

Swap the ECU in the dealer parking lot. After you get the carpet up and the panel off it only takes a minute or two.

 

If you decide to just swap the EEPROM I’ve done some surface mount work before. Glad to help or lend out tools if you need them.

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Stopped by waterjet shop to look at super custom, super lightweight PW splitter prototype. hoping to have them in hand by next week.

 

In other news, picked up a set of HPS 5.0 pads in brand new condition.

 

Spec'ing out an over the top grounding kit for the wagon. If you don't mind the $/foot, you can get pretty much any ground wire off the internet. 1/0 wire wound from 46 gauge wire is a thing for ground straps on motor yachts.

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Wait, are you saying you’re already running a dual wastegate hybrid setup like this as well? Please share details! Would love to hear what you’ve found so far.

 

I just got the boost control setup plumbed in a few minutes ago. MBC that runs the EWG is referenced post intercooler to minimize boost taper. IWG is plumbed up like a normal 3-port other than I’m dumping the vent to atmosphere (for now, need new EBCS fittings). Turbo is a BNR Evo3 16g, and it was previously flowing ~320g/sec at ~16psi.

 

With the adjustment all the way out it’s hitting ~8 psi in 1st gear. Will try and set it for 14 psi for the drive home. I’m fighting electrical gremlins so no flow numbers yet, but the Aquamist flow is up even at low boost so that indicates at least higher IDC.

 

edit: Eh, ended up 12.5 in 1st, 13.5 in 4th the first try at adjusting it. It's really not that loud in 1st, but in 4th...

 

No, I don't have that setup. On my other car, I played with hybrid boost controller, but it didn't do much for my setup.

 

My other car has an EJ207 with a Dom 3, so I don't have the problems with full-boost-part-throttle. On that car, full boost is at something like 4.5K, so you either want to run to redline or you don't, and shift earlier. So for that car, it's just controlling max boost, and an MBC works fine.

 

On my OBXT, I'm running the VF52 with the standard Romraider tables, stock boost controller, and IWG. On this car, I've found that it: (1) naturally wants to overboost in the mid-range, (2) and doesn't hold boost up top. Playing with the turbo dynamics tables helps, but it still doesn't get it to hold boost up top (anything over 17psi). So that's why I'm curious about your setup. I think it's a very smart way to approach a setup that presents two different problems. If it works, maybe I'll give it a try, but I'm really trying to keep this one stock-ish. Keep us posted!

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