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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Installed my Blitzen and waist spoilers using Plastidip to match the matte black paint. The paint on the waist spoiler came out better than the roof spoiler despite painting them both at the same time. I was limited by space doing this in my boiler room, the paint really liked to be applied at 90 degrees angle to the surface. Anti-seize and cosmoline'd all the bolts so I won't break the plastic tabs if I ever need to disassemble again. The pair change up the entire look of the rear end.

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13056

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13054

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13055

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Bessie II's Thread

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Thank you, I don't post many pics of it because the paint isn't in great shape. It belonged to two other members, atwood and bsax14. They both took good care of it and did their best despite a bad body shop. Yes, the plate is supposed to say "Ribbon work," i.e. the road being like a ribbon. It had to do with a YouTube channel I'm creating but I've since changed the name. I'll be sharing my first video soon.

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Put the snow tires on the wagon today, it's 57F, so it's nice to work outside. Did the snows on the Spec B a couple of weeks back.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yeah I'm digging the spoiler.

 

Haven't done much lately besides driving it. Even with it's ever deteriorating state, it still makes me smile getting in and out of it. I'm taking the week between Christmas and new year's off, so hopefully I can do my full suspension and steering rebuild.

 

I'm nearing 250k, and it got me thinking. I'm too late, but anyone else in the same boat needs to reset trip B at 241,991.50.

 

You're welcome.

Edited by seanyb505
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I use Trip B strictly for OCIs. I also have an archaic Ultragauge OBDII plug-in that I have as an additional metric for a variety of gauges. It sits on phone-magnet I keep in the vent to the right of the steering wheel, and also measures my OCIs. It has an alarm set for every 3k, so I have OCIs metrics double-tapped.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Even though I dont post as much since we are super busy these days at the shop and etuning we still love the LGT.com community and have such pride in what this community was able to do for us. You guys are awesome and always happy when an etune customer mentions a post from here or says they heard about us from one of our writeups on this site..

 

Thanks you guys!

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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Aisin is the new-new timing belt kit/company to use. I'm told Gates sold their manufacturing to China and the quality dropped, and Aisin supplies many JDM OEM parts

 

 

Same here.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Installed my Blitzen and waist spoilers using Plastidip to match the matte black paint. The paint on the waist spoiler came out better than the roof spoiler despite painting them both at the same time. I was limited by space doing this in my boiler room, the paint really liked to be applied at 90 degrees angle to the surface. Anti-seize and cosmoline'd all the bolts so I won't break the plastic tabs if I ever need to disassemble again. The pair change up the entire look of the rear end.

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13056

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13054

 

picture.php?albumid=2867&pictureid=13055

 

 

 

 

Looks awesome. Just when I thought no more aftermarket parts for me to buy for my wagon.

 

 

 

Is that from ebay?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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I bought both on Yahoo Auctions Japan through a container sharing service. The translate function on Chrome will be your friend. From there I had to arrange with UPS to ship the remaining distance from CA to NY. The Blitzen spoiler is hard to come by, they might only pop up once or twice a year.

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
 🌐 Website📷 Instagram✉️ Email

Bessie II's Thread

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Threw on my MOOG inner tie rods. Very noticeable difference in feel upon completion. Everything feels tight. Now absolutely everything related to steering is brand new!

 

I also changed the oil. This Fumoto quick drain valve has changed my life for the better. I also rotated the tires, and replaced my rear O2 sensor to finally ditch my P0037 code that popped up 3000mi ago.

 

picture.php?albumid=2866&pictureid=13094

 

I also went to PIA to schedule an alignment.

 

picture.php?albumid=2866&pictureid=13093

 

I have an appointment later today, and will be requesting 2.2 degrees of camber up front, 1.2 in the rear. 0 toe. 0 cross caster.

 

Though I'm not sure what I should do about the caster, especially since the car is lowered. My first thought is to aim for the median of the factory tolerances. But the cars geometry is not the same as it was from the factory. I have adjustable caster bushings up front, so I can play around, but I'm having trouble finding alignments to reference. I'd like the wheel to be relatively centered in the wheel well, but I don't know what 5 degrees of caster vs 7 degrees (or anything between) of caster looks like on a 18x8 wrapped in 235/40s, let alone what performance I gain/lose.

 

I can always worry about this when I take the car to get corner-balanced, but if it's getting an initial alignment, I'd rather them do what they can now while the car isn't corner-balanced.

 

Thoughts? Advice? Input?

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Threw on my MOOG inner tie rods. Very noticeable difference in feel upon completion. Everything feels tight. Now absolutely everything related to steering is brand new!

 

I also changed the oil. This Fumoto quick drain valve has changed my life for the better. I also rotated the tires, and replaced my rear O2 sensor to finally ditch my P0037 code that popped up 3000mi ago.

 

picture.php?albumid=2866&pictureid=13094

 

I also went to PIA to schedule an alignment.

 

picture.php?albumid=2866&pictureid=13093

 

I have an appointment later today, and will be requesting 2.2 degrees of camber up front, 1.2 in the rear. 0 toe. 0 cross caster.

 

Though I'm not sure what I should do about the caster, especially since the car is lowered. My first thought is to aim for the median of the factory tolerances. But the cars geometry is not the same as it was from the factory. I have adjustable caster bushings up front, so I can play around, but I'm having trouble finding alignments to reference. I'd like the wheel to be relatively centered in the wheel well, but I don't know what 5 degrees of caster vs 7 degrees (or anything between) of caster looks like on a 18x8 wrapped in 235/40s, let alone what performance I gain/lose.

 

I can always worry about this when I take the car to get corner-balanced, but if it's getting an initial alignment, I'd rather them do what they can now while the car isn't corner-balanced.

 

Thoughts? Advice? Input?

 

I think you should corner balance prior to alignment. Otherwise, when they adjust corner heights it’ll change your alignment.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Finsta, do you mind sharing the eBay seller you mentioned? I searched but could not find him.

 

 

 

Today I just finished cobbling together my "USDM" double din setup. You can get faceplates for the double din as a single unit from a seller in Russia off eBay. The double din brackets mount right up and then I gutted a dual zone climate radio from Europe. Works perfectly, don't have that famous dim AC display that the JDM double DINs are known for.

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Bessie II's Thread

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He got back to me over PM, it is this one: https://www.ebay.ca/usr/subaru2din (hope you don't mind me sharing, @finsta). I had seen it before but it didn't click that he transferred all the buttons from a donor EDM radio over.

 

 

The part number for the EDM radio is 86201AG300 (GX-201RH, cheaper) or 86201AG350 (GX204-RE, expensive) 86201AG460. All credit goes to Finsta.

Edited by Enlight

muFreight.co
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Bessie II's Thread

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