Neal Cassady

Have not installed them on the car with fluid running to them to test feel, however based on calculations for pedal torque, travel and BMC size, I expect the following (if you were to control for lines/fluid/pad type): OEM pedal travel is pretty long stock, so the WRX 1" or STI 1 1/16" mc are both a good upgrade with stock brakes. It's not required for the 17Z calipers, but definitely a worthwhile change, especially with a STI booster. Using the 17Z calipers & LGT rear sliding calipers, there is only about a 5% increase in pad area. Using the 17Z calipers and STI rear brembos, reduces this to about 1% (STI rear brembo has a smaller piston area), but shifts the bias forward due to increased front torque (73.9% to 75% front, OEM is 72.2%). This could be balanced by having a more aggressive rear pad, however with how nose heavy our cars are, its likely a good thing, or at least has minimal impact for 99% of drivers. The pedal travel will be about 5% longer with the 17Z calipers and OEM LGT master cylinder (15/16"). The STI master reduces travel by about 18% with the 17Z calipers, compared to stock MC/brakes. As for banjos, normally I would caution against them as there is nothing to prevent the line from rotating and loosening the banjo (Audi/VW people have leaking issues when using banjo lines instead of male flare fittings). However I took a look at my test set up, and a simple p-clamp to the upper caliper bolt could remove this risk. The OEM LGT M10x1.0 banjo bolt fits the 17Z caliper, so this could be a cheap, simple solution that avoids custom lines. Photos show an LGT OEM line and OEM banjo bolt attached to the caliper.

Sorry for the delay! Not doing deposits, once I'm happy with everything they'll be listed for sale. Would people want the kit to include brake lines? Or would you prefer to DIY them with AN fittings or have a local hydraulic shop make them? A pair of stainless conversion lines would add about $70 to the kit. Technically you could use the LGT banjo bolt and fitting, but the Brembo 17Z caliper is meant to take a bubble flare, so the conversion line would match the Subaru chassis hardline and have the proper bubble flare for the caliper, and LGT strut mount tab.

bump, still available

Making progress, other priorities unfortunately mean that progress is slow. Did a test fit of the kit on the car (instead of just a loose hub), to make sure the strut, steering and LCA had no issues. Found some small changes to simplify the kit (2 fewer pieces) and also make installation less...intricate. The kit is designed to install in 2 ways: 1) without an offset bushing in the caliper (less work) 2) with the offset bushing (better pad position) The third photo shows the slight angle of the pad (bottom corner is closer to the centre of the rotor) WITHOUT the offset bushing (method 1). The pad does not overhang the rotor, it is just not quite concentric. Happily, all other components clear. 17x8 +35 Regamasters clear with ~10 mm spacer. The caliper takes an M10x1.0 male thread with a euro flare (bubble or convex DIN is the proper name I believe). Thanks everyone for following along, hopefully will have actual parts to share soon.

Test fit of the 17Z caliper on car, instead of just a loose hub. Worked out installation method a bit more and a couple tweaks to simplify the kit.

I believe the 05 switch operates differently, I tried to use it with the Evo X seats (which are a hi/lo) and it was a no-go, so I imagine the reverse is true (05 seats won't work with BG switch). The chart I provided used the Evo X switch and just piggy backed off of the old wiring. I think 05 4 position switch varies resistance, whereas the hi-lo switch just sends power to the appropriate circuit.

I have the CSF 7042 STI radiator on my 2006 LGT, no issues other than slight trimming of the upper rad hose due to the thicker radiator.

New clips, such a good feeling. Just ordered new intake duct clips (among a few other bits), $7.72 each here in the Great White North.

Not yet. OEM pedal travel is pretty long stock, so the WRX 1" or STI mc are both a good upgrade with stock brakes. It's not required for the 17Z calipers, but definitely a worthwhile change, especially with a STI booster. The pedal travel will be about 5% longer with the 17Z calipers and OEM LGT master cylinder (15/16"). The STI master reduces travel by about 18% with the 17Z calipers, compared to stock MC/brakes.

Unfortunately no Wagonfest for any of us Canadian wagons. Next year hopefully!

Thanks finsta! Turned out great, I had a sliver of hope you'd say you also found a clever way to split the USDM radio/hvac, but euro parts aren't too bad to get these days from Russia at least.

What's involved with the gutting?

LegacyGT.com meet to help Ben dismantle his wagon to free up garage space for wagon resurrection?

If the border opens I'll hopefully drive down for Wagonfest!

A-pillars done, only 3 more pillars to go. At least these are the ones I see most of the time.

Adding to a steadily growing parts hoard. This board helps me not feel alone in my plight. VF52 in surprisingly decent shape (hairline wastegate crack, zero shaft play), earmarked for future rebuild.

Never going back to USDM. No bumper beam needed and I don't believe JDM even came with a rear bumper beam (can someone with a JDM wagon confirm?).

I wish! Waiting on the first batch of parts to fully install on the car. The test fit was done with 3D printed parts on a Legacy GT upright, using the same models that will be used for manufacturing. But there are always material/process variations so hopefully it all goes smooth once I get parts.

Not biased at all. It's pretty clear RBP wagons are the best. Definitely zero bias.

Life has gotten in the way and slowed things down, but working with a friend on the manufacturing side now. Hopefully will be cutting parts soon!

I think you'd still need a resistor in lieu of the side airbag, does the base without the seat still have the weight sensors etc? Or would those come off with the seat?

Definitely check out the maintenance FAQ, and a read up on banjo filters. They may already be removed since the car is modified.

Another option, albeit slightly more expensive, RockAuto I believe has reman calipers, unpainted or a company called Rotorlab sells rebuilt ones, fully painted/decaled.

Radial mount is a good way to go for a one-off kit! Makes the bracket super simple. I wouldn't recommend elongating the holes, I've modelled it up and it's sketchy at best.