finsta Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 The original info came from finsta. He found the panel and did the actual swap. I found a link to post about it in his SPecB build thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6047961&postcount=36 That also has the EDM 2DIN radio part # - this is the HVAC donor and small parts donor for the EDM 2DIN panel. Panel itself is from ebay, here it the link to the same listing I bought from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153173478907 There were other sellers offering the same part for the same price. My ears were burning. If you say my name 5 times in front of a mirror, I'll appear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Hi, two questions concerning steering. (I couldn’t find the particular info in Underdogs STI rack swap). 2015+ rack will fit in a spec.B but up to which year and version; ie; obviously not electric assist, but in parts.subaru some sti’s have different part numbers for the rack in certain years and trim levels. My question is, will a 2020 type va rack fit or I can’t go past 2019 for example? Second question, I saw an 2015 STI steering DAMD shape for sale, is it a direct swap or too much wiring involved to keep oem setup with my s# and radio controls? Thx in advance for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Ooh, I can't wait to see the finished product! Me too, thanks! That last 10% will probably take me the equivalent of the whole project though, so no promises of being done anytime soon. Gap btw the shifter bezel and the HVAC controls now that is unsettling me. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 heading to bend tomorrow to drop off my processwest intercooler and splitter to joeinoregon. Dropping off a hood for shralp. Stopping by arcflash (one of gator's sponsor) to see about a build for the racewagon. anyone else need transportation from seattle to bend or back?How did it go at Arc flash ? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Hi, two questions concerning steering. (I couldn’t find the particular info in Underdogs STI rack swap). 2015+ rack will fit in a spec.B but up to which year and version; ie; obviously not electric assist, but in parts.subaru some sti’s have different part numbers for the rack in certain years and trim levels. My question is, will a 2020 type va rack fit or I can’t go past 2019 for example? The 2015+ rack fits fine on a spec.B (same as the regular LGT). The part number for the new rack was superceded in 2019, but I think they're effectively the same. Not sure about the 2020. I've fit both 34110VA120 and 34110VA121 on my '07 spec.B. On topic: LGT has been driven and parked in my parents' garage where it will spend the winter. Time to parts hoard to give it some springtime gifts when it comes out of hibernation. I'm thinking a KBHH with EGT bung + sensor and new coilovers. Because why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Can't believe it. Tried my impact, then drove to my buddies for his air impact, and yet couldn't get the exhaust bolts to budge to install my HKS on. Fml Rubbed a bunch of rust remover goop on the nutz and we'll give another attempt tomorrow. Otherwise looks like I'll need a cutting wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 The 2015+ rack fits fine on a spec.B (same as the regular LGT). The part number for the new rack was superceded in 2019, but I think they're effectively the same. Not sure about the 2020. I've fit both 34110VA120 and 34110VA121 on my '07 spec.B. On topic: LGT has been driven and parked in my parents' garage where it will spend the winter. Time to parts hoard to give it some springtime gifts when it comes out of hibernation. I'm thinking a KBHH with EGT bung + sensor and new coilovers. Because why not? Cool thx. Did you notice a difference between the 120 and 121? Returning to the thread, I put winters on (gold STI V7 with Hakka 9’s) and finished putting all underbody and wheel wells after rustproofing. Bring it on harsh Quebec winter weather! I’m ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Found a shop towel wedged in the hot side of my TMIC yesterday. Had to be there at least all of this year.. I assume I was sloppy and missed it when doing work one day, beyond me how it didn't mess anything up EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Can't believe it. Tried my impact, then drove to my buddies for his air impact, and yet couldn't get the exhaust bolts to budge to install my HKS on. Fml Rubbed a bunch of rust remover goop on the nutz and we'll give another attempt tomorrow. Otherwise looks like I'll need a cutting wheel Heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch. Turn the nuts while they are still hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Found a shop towel wedged in the hot side of my TMIC yesterday. Had to be there at least all of this year.. I assume I was sloppy and missed it when doing work one day, beyond me how it didn't mess anything up Lucky. Does the car feel faster now? Makes me think of this video! "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I did actually do something to my car this weekend. Normally, I always have all the parts ready for a repair but I wasn't sure how this was all going to come apart. The main goal here is to rebuild the axles and install the Whiteline anti-lift kit to eliminate the brake chatter I've always had with this car as well as resurface the rotors and install new pads. Using anti-seize has really paid off. I installed my LCA's probably 8 years ago but I was very concerned about getting the ball joints out. The passenger side fell out with a few taps from 2x4, the driver side took a little bit of heat but I still had it out in 15 minutes, which was amazing. I almost just bought new knuckles thinking it was going to be impossible to get these out in one piece. Even the ball joints are still good! Even though the wheel bearings have always worked ok for me, I decided to go ahead and replace them while everything was apart. Took about 5 hours to get all the tools out and gut both sides and drain the 6MT trans fluid. I ordered the parts last night: 2 Timkin front wheel bearings OEM Axle boot repair kits for both sides, crazy expensive btw. It would have been cheaper to buy a new after-market axle. New dust shields I'm having the rotors resurfaced I'm going to install the Whiteline Anti Lift kit for the LCA bushings. New Brembo brake pads Also, trans fluid change I also have a STi solid steering joint and I need to investigate my steering rack. I have a 15' STi rack installed but it seems to be leaking somewhere, which is really disappointing given that it's only a few years old. So far so good, it will be a couple of weeks before I get everything back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch. Turn the nuts while they are still hot. A good impact and MAP gas with a quality touch end are worth their weight in gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Lucky. Does the car feel faster now? Makes me think of this video! Wow, never seen that one before. What shit luck. My fuel trims were a bit off and I was checking for leaks when I found the towel. Haven't driven it since though, but will soon EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty9 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch. Turn the nuts while they are still hot. Can't be tight if its a liquid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I have a hard time deciding between the whiteline transmission mount bushing insert and the group N transmission mount. Any thought? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I would say if your mount is in good shape and you just want to stiffen it up then go with the insert. The group N will be softer, the insert will make your mount harder than the group N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Thanks for the feedback. Do you think the whiteline bushing would increase NVH over the group N? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Can't be tight if its a liquid! Ya....magma it shall be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 You don't necessarily need a torch to loosen nuts and bolts. I was doing the rear brakes recently and found one bolt impossible to remove. I used a heat gun on the high setting and much to my surprise, I could loosen it after that. The problem with a torch is the bolts are heat-treated and if they get too hot they suffer a permanent loss of strength and there is nothing to tell you that has happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Thanks for the feedback. Do you think the whiteline bushing would increase NVH over the group N? I would say so, the two are completely different materials/hardness. That being said, I have so much NVH the only thing I noticed was no movement ( also added a cusco mount and solid driveshaft bushings at the same time so lol) Still need to do the rear, looking at replacing my rear subframe, might do it all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I would say so, the two are completely different materials/hardness. That being said, I have so much NVH the only thing I noticed was no movement ( also added a cusco mount and solid driveshaft bushings at the same time so lol) Still need to do the rear, looking at replacing my rear subframe, might do it all together. So you're almost at race car mode then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 You don't necessarily need a torch to loosen nuts and bolts. I was doing the rear brakes recently and found one bolt impossible to remove. I used a heat gun on the high setting and much to my surprise, I could loosen it after that. The problem with a torch is the bolts are heat-treated and if they get too hot they suffer a permanent loss of strength and there is nothing to tell you that has happened. Heat gun, that's a great idea. Thanks 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finsta Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Cool thx. Did you notice a difference between the 120 and 121? Returning to the thread, I put winters on (gold STI V7 with Hakka 9’s) and finished putting all underbody and wheel wells after rustproofing. Bring it on harsh Quebec winter weather! I’m ready. Ran this setup in Kebek winters for years. It's a good one. I'm using Hakka R3s for the first time because my garage doesn't allow studded tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benfrancis Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Installed the OEM armrest extension for the 05-09 legacy/outback and dang does that make a world of difference in terms of comfort while driving. Also, installed a Borla LGT CBE as well. Third time is the charm on exhaust setup and the noise level is perfect for general livability and drone, even with UEL headers (Perrin). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Installed the OEM armrest extension for the 05-09 legacy/outback and dang does that make a world of difference in terms of comfort while driving. For some reason, I actually don't like it. I get annoyed when my elbow hits the extension switch. But I am short too, which makes me sitting more forward. So, YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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