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Max Capacity

I Donated Too
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Everything posted by Max Capacity

  1. FWIW, I bolt the turbo on the up pipe, much easier to line things up. Use the same OEM bolt that hold the uppipe support bracket to engine. The dealers parts guys will have them. While it is out, replace the oil return hose and check the intake tube for a worn out flex joint.
  2. Agree, do not put a stock clutch in with your mods. It will not last. The Spec 2+ will work well and allow you to launch the car by pulling the e-brake and pre-loading the drivetrain.
  3. I gather you've seen that. It's been a long time, but I think I used a ford wrench and C clam to hold the cam gear. A ford wrench is cheaper. My thread is linked to that I think.
  4. Now the under engine cover, you want to leave on, it helps air flow while driving by making a low pressure area under/behind the engine.
  5. I took mine off a couple of days after buying the car, to see what was under there, June 28 2004. While doing that, I lost one of the plastic clips. I never put the cover back on. In fact, I have the one from my 09 Spec B in the basement. I took it off after buying that car too. I'd rather open the hood and quickly scan the engine for issues. With that cover on, I can't see any possible issues before something bad happens. Many years ago, there was/is a thread where we talked about this. Here's what you want to do.
  6. The owner's manual, recommends starting and driving, not idling to let it warm up. Just drive it easy until it warms up. Theory is, the weight of the pistons, moving cold at horizontal, is not good. Also, those of us that drive the car for long distances, letting the engine get fully warmed up have far fewer problems, than someone that drives for 2 miles and shuts it off.
  7. That long idling is not good for the engine. Unless I was cleaning off snow, I "never" let my Subaru's idle more than a few seconds. Start it and drive it. Even on those morning way below 0F start it, drive it. You'll need to open the hood, start the engine and go look for where that noise is coming from.
  8. https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+subaru+legacy+blitzen&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=2006+subaru+legacy+blitzen&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiABBiiBDIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiABBiiBNIBCjI5NzMwajBqMTWoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 That may help.
  9. It was working fine when I sold the car a few months ago. That controller was an industrial model that has been around for many years and you can get them from supply houses for industry. It may not look pretty, but it works for industry.
  10. FWIW, my 09 Spec was built June 6 2008. My 05 GT wagon was built May 28 2004. I bought the wagon June 28 2004
  11. Another question for the OP, how do you drive your car ? is it mainly short distance or longer drive's ? These cars seem not to do well if only driven for short distances. Back when I was working, it was 28 miles highway to go to work.
  12. These things have always been a PITA to get a true oil level reading. I found the best way was to park on level ground, pull the dipstick, go into work for the day. Before starting the car, put the dipstick in, check oil level. I always ran a little over full because these engine use oil. I had an air/oil separator on my 05, I didn't have one on my 09. I would not do it again.
  13. It's been a while, there was a member back about 2007 that put a Amsoil remote oil filter on and increased his oil capacity to 7 qt's. Oh, he was HAMMERDOWN. That might be a better option. Or might give you more options. I switched to Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic and after having Blackstone Labs run the sample, I went to 7-8000 mile oil changes. Using their EA15K13 filter. Per HAMMERDOWNS advice. Some 154,000 miles later, my engine had none of the normal Subaru internal engine noises. I retained the stock oil cooler. I highly recommend Amsoil. I assume the remote cooler would require more volume of oil too.
  14. The shortblocks is the same. the bolt on items like heads and intake manifold from the XT will work fine. Now you need a custom tune for a vf52. My 05 GT had a ej257 shortblock and vf52, see my click here link You might want to perform a boos leak test. you can google that...
  15. If you're a Costco member, you can get the quick jacks from them. That's where mine came from a few years back.
  16. I thought you knew to follow my build. I think you know to see my "click here" link. I ran that ej257 on stock fueling tuned on ESP's dyno at 21psi with the vf52. The stock injectors had over 306,000 miles when I sold the wagon. It really is that easy. The ej257 was still great some 150,000+ miles later.
  17. Just saying, back in Aug 2017, I had my buddy's body shop replace the rusted gas tank in my 05. Along with the fuel filler tube.
  18. Thanks for coming back and telling us the fix. Many people don't do that.
  19. There is a difference inside a GT's 5mt. The GT power will not treat the 2.5i 5mt well. As said, years ago, if you want a GT, buy one.
  20. If you ride on the back seat, while the drive is being driven, you can hear a lot from back there. Have someone drive the car around a flyover interchange on a highway, as the car's weight shifts going around the big curve you can hear the bearing sing if its going bad.
  21. Yes, that worked for me. Seems that moist weather is what I found causes the issue.
  22. Have you tried to do a ECU reset ? Disconnect the battery cable for 15 minutes. After you reconnect, turn the Key to "ON" for ten second before starting. Try that and see if it clears.
  23. Yes, the diff falls forward on your jack, and the axles will pop out. No need to remove them from the hub. Also, make sure to remove the fill plug before you install the new diff. I learned the hard way. The PO, tighten the fill plug so tight, I had to remove the just installed used diff to remove the cover so a machine shop could get the fill plug out. Check the drain plug too.
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