What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[seanyb505]

I'm usually decent at searching, but I can't find the right combo for even google to get me what I'm looking for. Does anyone know of a decent write up for switching to spec b suspension? Front is pretty basic, but for the rear I don't want to hit any road blocks or need to back track. Everything suspension related is coming off/getting replaced anyway, so I want to compare steps for that swap to a standard rebuild.

[Febreze Mee]

I'm usually decent at searching, but I can't find the right combo for even google to get me what I'm looking for. Does anyone know of a decent write up for switching to spec b suspension? Front is pretty basic, but for the rear I don't want to hit any road blocks or need to back track. Everything suspension related is coming off/getting replaced anyway, so I want to compare steps for that swap to a standard rebuild.

 

You may have already come across this thread in the suspension stickys, but in case you hadn't or the next guy needs it, here:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/faq-jdm-oem-suspension-61108.html

 

This talks about JDM and USDM Spec B suspension.

 

 

EDIT* This too: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/spec-b-or-not-to-spec-b-that-is-the-question.31536/

Edited December 22, 2021 by Febreze Mee

[socalsleeper]

I'm usually decent at searching, but I can't find the right combo for even google to get me what I'm looking for. Does anyone know of a decent write up for switching to spec b suspension? Front is pretty basic, but for the rear I don't want to hit any road blocks or need to back track. Everything suspension related is coming off/getting replaced anyway, so I want to compare steps for that swap to a standard rebuild.

 

The swap is pretty straight forward, I replaced a bunch of hardware with fresh OEM bolts while I was at it; definitely recommend it. The bolts that hold the hub to the trailing arm are longer on the Aluminum arms. Also there is separate bracket that holds the swaybar to the trailing arm as well.

 

My swap I replaced all the bushings, new hub bearings, swaybars, rear brembos, and had the arms powder coated. So basically I touched everything under there I can answer questions if you have any.

 

Just make sure you have all the torque specs on hand, and paint mark everything so you don't miss something.

[Febreze Mee]

Went up to the Lynwood Pick n Pull with this guy

 

[seanyb505]

You may have already come across this thread in the suspension stickys, but in case you hadn't or the next guy needs it, here:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/faq-jdm-oem-suspension-61108.html

 

This talks about JDM and USDM Spec B suspension.

 

 

EDIT* This too: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/spec-b-or-not-to-spec-b-that-is-the-question.31536/

 

Thanks for providing those, unfortunately it appears I'm a moron and didn't specify I'm only doing the aluminum swap. No Bilstein shenanigans, I'm installing kw coilovers as part of the rebuild.

 

The first and last few pages of the lgt thread talk shocks and springs, less logistics of rear trailing arms. It does seem simple, which is exactly why I want to make sure it is.

[amm203]

I'm usually decent at searching, but I can't find the right combo for even google to get me what I'm looking for. Does anyone know of a decent write up for switching to spec b suspension? Front is pretty basic, but for the rear I don't want to hit any road blocks or need to back track. Everything suspension related is coming off/getting replaced anyway, so I want to compare steps for that swap to a standard rebuild.

 

socal covered a lot of stuff to look out for. I also did full aluminum rear replacement last summer - replaced the brake dust shields/parking brake hardware as well while I was in there. If you can, get the OEM bushings pressed out and replace with Whiteline. Also be prepared to sawzall the OEM toe-adjustment bolts if they haven't been touched in a while. The whole process is a PITA and can get costly but the improvement in handling is well worth it IMO. The service manual's instructions actually aren't too bad to follow for the whole procedure.

 

If money isn't a big deal, may as well get the KTA124 kit as well for full adjustment. That's next on my list to dial in rear alignment exactly where it needs to be. I can post part numbers for bolts/dust shields/WL bushings if you'd like

[Code]

Also, Cusco makes a beefy rsb/end link bracket for the spec b trailing arms. They’re welded instead of stamped like the oem. Nice n blingy too. Mine took about four weeks to arrive from Japan.

[seanyb505]

socal covered a lot of stuff to look out for. I also did full aluminum rear replacement last summer - replaced the brake dust shields/parking brake hardware as well while I was in there. If you can, get the OEM bushings pressed out and replace with Whiteline. Also be prepared to sawzall the OEM toe-adjustment bolts if they haven't been touched in a while. The whole process is a PITA and can get costly but the improvement in handling is well worth it IMO. The service manual's instructions actually aren't too bad to follow for the whole procedure.

 

If money isn't a big deal, may as well get the KTA124 kit as well for full adjustment. That's next on my list to dial in rear alignment exactly where it needs to be. I can post part numbers for bolts/dust shields/WL bushings if you'd like

 

So yeah this thread I started details a lot of my thought developments and high level parts list. Most of the recommended stuff is on the list.

 

I usually feel under-prepared if I'm not over-prepared.

[seanyb505]

Merry Christmas everyone! Hope your presents are car-part shaped!

[ckwaters]

I installed a COBB adjustable short shifter and all Kartboy bushings to my 6MT swapped Outback. I absolutely love the feel of the shifter now. A user on an Australian Subaru forum described the feel of the stock shifter best as, "throwing a sausage down a long hallway".

 

I also installed a 2nd clutch switch so I can fool the car into thinking I have my foot on the clutch. Now I can use my remote starter once again that I haven't been able to use since the car was an automatic.

[Code]

Ummmm…..that’s typically a description used to illustrate a WAAAAAAAY different activity than you’re going for.

[Febreze Mee]

Code's talking about the sexs

 

I feel as though a "spoon in a bowl of oatmeal" suits the description better.

Edited December 27, 2021 by Febreze Mee

[rhino6303]

I finally got my car back from the paint shop!!! It's been there since the end of June. I wasn't a huge priority and then covid hit the shop hard. I still have to get my new bumpers assembled and installed. This will now become a nicer weather car for the most part so I'm not going to rush it.

 

It needs an interior and engine bay detail really bad now. Also, the parking brake lever had the leather delaminate (not the boot, the lever).

 

Isn't there a member who's installed a different parking brake lever from an sti or something? I recall seeing a picture and quick explanation but couldn't find it again. If you know who it is, let me know. Here

[s2baru]

So what's the color then?

[chadnocaptainchad]

hi

 

 

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[rhino6303]

So what's the color then?

Still Regal Blue Pearl.

[shralp]

Still Regal Blue Pearl.

 

Can't wait to see some shots!

[Febreze Mee]

Still Regal Blue Pearl.

 

I, too, would enjoy some photos [not under a car cover].

 

It began snowing last night. I took off the fog light covers for a little more light output down low, given the weather conditions. I accidentally split one in half in the process. You wouldn't know looking at it, but it bothers me knowing the split is there. The velcro was strong with that one.

 

This is what I woke up to, then used my handy-dandy snow brush.

 

 

I wish I had a brush for the snow we got earlier in February

 

 

 

Cleared by hand, wipers, and time

 

[Kaos22B]

Christmas day car mods are fun

I FINALLY installed front speakers. Polk DB6502s, with some spacers I cut up. Overall quite happy with the install and VERY happy with the sound. I'll be going back in later when I have more time to sound deaden the door a bit.

[Enlight]

I tried installing my new old stock HCA Double Din faceplate with my Kenwood DNX893s but something peculiar happened.

 

On my first install with just the Kenwood head unit everything went fine. I spliced the factory radio harness into the Kenwood harness and then listened to podcasts for hours with no issues. However, this setup meant I didn't have HVAC controls.

 

Now, I wanted to add the HCA Double Din faceplate so I had HVAC controls back. I spliced back in an OEM male radio connector to connect into the HCA faceplate (pictured below). I plug the new harness into the head unit and the faceplate.

 

 

Now, I'm getting an error message from the Kenwood head unit stating "USB device over current" even though no USB device is connected. The device will then shut off. Furthermore, the head unit will not power on at all if I disconnect the faceplate connector. I believe the error message actually has to do with the head unit not getting enough current.

 

The next step I want to take is make a new harness where all the wires crimped together at the bulkhead connector, not spliced in mid-wire, but I'm not 100% sure whether this will solve the problem. Any electrical gurus out there have an idea why my current harness is not working? What am I missing here?

[solidxsnake]

Now, I'm getting an error message from the Kenwood head unit stating "USB device over current" even though no USB device is connected. The device will then shut off. Furthermore, the head unit will not power on at all if I disconnect the faceplate connector. I believe the error message actually has to do with the head unit not getting enough current.

 

 

Are you sure your wiring is okay, and are you testing with the engine running? I suspect the head unit + the faceplate are pulling enough current that a shoddy enough connection is dropping the voltage enough for the head unit to complain. The splicing that you did shouldn't be an issue (assuming the connections are all of good quality and correctly wired).

[Enlight]

Yes, I tested it with ACC and the engine running. What I find perplexing is that the head unit does not turn on at all when I disconnect the faceplate. What would explain that? The splices are all soldered and heat wrapped - could it be changes in the gauge of wire?

 

 

P.S. Is there a rule about whether these things should be wired in series vs parallel?

Edited December 30, 2021 by Enlight

[solidxsnake]

Yes, I tested it with ACC and the engine running. What I find perplexing is that the head unit does not turn on at all when I disconnect the faceplate. What would explain that? The splices are all soldered and heat wrapped - could it be changes in the gauge of wire?

 

 

P.S. Is there a rule about whether these things should be wired in series vs parallel?

 

 

Everything should be wired in parallel, NOT in series. Simply put, everything that is supposed to be wired to ACC should be receiving the full voltage from the battery, which means a parallel connection is what you want. That's what it looked like your harness did, so I don't see an issue there. Wire gauge is likely not an issue here, can't imagine you're pulling enough current for it to be a problem.

 

 

 

Have you confirmed you're getting power everywhere you're supposed to? Get a volt-meter and probe any pins at all the connectors that should be at battery voltage and confirm that. Also make sure your wiring is all correct... that's honestly the only thing I can think of.

[seanyb505]

I've been in the garage all week. Rear suspension in, moved to the front. Front control arms are being a bear to get in. Also think I over-extended an axle. Really excited for when it's all together though. I'll work on more pics and project thoughts after the wrenching is complete.

 

 

[whitexc]

Looking great. Which RSB brackets and bar do you have there? Guessing WL bar and AVO brackets.

 

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