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I'm looking for the drivers door handle shipped to 20018.

Not much change for my wagon in the past year, it just sits a lot. Last fall the OEM radiator finally gave up and I replaced it with a Koyo. Last week, I finally got the snow tires on for the season and drove 800 miles round trip through MD, WV, PA to OH. It was a great drive, the car didn’t skip a beat. My electric cut out and 30 degree temps made for an entertaining drive.

I would recommend upgrading the MC/booster to the STi unit. This alone is one of the best mods you can do on a LGT, even with the stock brakes, and it's so cheap to do. The MC/Booster makes a bigger difference than the Brembo's IMO. It really tightens up the brake pedal feel. You barely get into the brakes and they're right there in the pedal. The rear Brembo's were the 'last' mod I did on my LGT too. It's a frustrating mod. It's a lot of cost for what I consider a cosmetic mod. I went a couple of years with just the front Brembo's and STI MC/Booster and noticed no difference when I finally swapped to rear Brembo's. Looking back, I was just fine with front's only. It was another $1000+ and I wasn't wild about modifying my trailing arms.

They fit but the OEM rear lines are too long. I needed to zip tie them to the trailing arms to keep the slack from rubbing against the axles.

I agree. Not ever needing to commute or daily my LGT has increased its life span with me. If I needed to drive this car every day, it may have been replaced a long time ago.

I'm in the same boat with my wagon and after 13 years of ownership, it's just not worth selling to me. As long as I have some place to keep it and continue to pay the $650 a year for insurance, I plan on keeping it. I have no plans on any rebuilds though. If the motor goes or the car has body damage, I'll probably let it go.

Awesome progress, the car has changed a lot! What is the heater for?

Random question, how tall is the ceiling in your garage? Beautiful collection as always!

Looking good man! I'm really digging the setup you have going on. Don't feel too bad about the permits. I finally got mine approved this week, they were submitted in January. And that was with a licensed architect, structural engineer and professional permit expediter on the job.

Nice thread. We're also in the process of building a garage. We'll hopefully have the permits by the end of the year and start building in spring. Being in the city, we have the same sq/ft issue. We can only have a 450sq/ft footprint so we'll be 22x20 but it will be a full two story building. Is there a reason you don't go with single 16' or 18' door instead of two 8' garage doors?

The same thing happened to me before. The stock USDM head lights eat bulbs. I went though bulbs every 6 months, the first cold night one year I had both bulbs go out within a coupe of hours of each other. I swapped to the JDM HID headlights and haven't replaced a bulb in over 5 years, they have paid for themselves. I have the DRL disconnected but I normally drive with the headlights on anyway.

When I went from the OEM shocks to the Excel's on stock spring in my wagon, it raised the rear up about 1" unloaded. The Excel's are a direct OEM replacement but they are a better shock than OEM.

Over the weekend, I replaced the two-way valve and solenoid that you recommended. So far so good but it will take some miles to confirm it actually fixed the CEL. Thank you for your guidance! Edit: We drove to NYC and back last weekend, no CEL. That's the longest it has stayed off in years so that's promising. Again, thank you!

Enhanced Street Performance, Inc. 12 Beverly Drive Sterling, Massachusetts 01564 (978) 422-7273 http://enhancedstreetperformance.com/ They installed my VF-52, DP and TMIC along, long time ago. Tuning Alliance does tunes on their dyno. 10+years, 80k later my car runs fantastic!

Mach V Motorsports 45690 Elmwood Court, Suite 170 Sterling, Virginia, 20166 (571) 434-8333 https://machv.com/ I've only personally used their alignment services but they will align your car to your specs and they welcome modifications. They have a parts warehouse on site, they have to be one of the most equipped Subaru shops around. They recommend tie rod replacement during the alignment and they had no issue modifying the tie rod ends for my STi steering rack and they had everything on hand already.

Take a look at the link that Infosecdad posted. The OEM STI gauges use a pigtail adapter to power the gauges. I would use this same setup but you'll need to tap into the wiring harness instead of it being plug and play.

I got mine from Fenix near Winchendon, MA. It's been awhile since I got mine, they've changed names a few times now but they had a lot of Subaru parts. Give them a call.

Thank you! I know I've had these off before, I'll take a look at them again now that I know how to tell if they're bad or not.

It's P1457. It's a 1999 CRV. Last time I had it smoked tested, it passed. I can get the light to stay off long enough for the emissions test after a reset but it will come back on after 100 miles. Any suggestions?

Are these cars get older, these EVAP CEL's are really a pain. Replacing the gas tank on my LGT has kept the light off for the past couple of years, but I'm just waiting for it to come back. My wife's Honda CRV has the same struggles. Same P0457 CEL has been on for years now. No one can find the leak.

You're probably right about that. The ID1000's were the best option when I was considering injectors. Clearly, I'm a bit behind.

It's been my observation that aftermarket injectors are not as reliable as OEM. I've seen countless posts about mysterious issues that have been linked back to aftermarket injectors. I'll gladly trade a few HP for OEM reliability.

I followed Max's build. I've been on stock injectors and stock fuel pump with a vf-52 for over a decade now with a Tuning Alliance tune. My peak power is less than yours but it's been dead reliable. In the last 80k I've only changed the plugs and oil.

I’d guess about 5 mins in the summer and 10 mins in the winter. Obviously, it depends on what the temperature is outside. I try and keep my engine under 3k RPM’s until the oil reaches 80c, which is its normally operating temp. The water temp comes up a lot quicker than the oil temp. It’s rare that I see oil temps over 100c but it has happened on very hot days in traffic. Yes, the OEM sandwich adapter has two ports for the oil temp and oil pressure. It’s all kind of built as one unit though. This makes sense. I know the pressure can fluctuate quite a bit though. I’ve seen my car go to low pressure on the highway before, which seems to be normal so I wonder what you would set the alarm to.