What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Max Capacity]

Oil change completed.

 

Had to do it in the middle of the driveway, about 50ft down the driveway, garage is not finished yet. I put the car up on the ramps, had just enough room to slide the 5 gallon container under the Fumoto Oil Drain valve. Easy to drain the oil. Was planning on using the quickjacks, but, see the "garage not finished yet" statement. LOL

 

I also greased the front sway bar end links, they are Moogs with grease fittings. I have the Loc N Lub grease coupler, that thing works great.

Edited November 18, 2021 by Max Capacity

[ohno06gt]

Anyone have tips on how to loosen the flare connection in the oil line that connects to the top of the turbo? I saw a few write ups that mentioned bending it out of the way for turbo removal but scared it's going to kink/break.

 

Had a 17mm wrenches on the top and bottom but couldn't get it to budge. Soaked in pb blaster and going to try again tomorrow.

[s2baru]

BBS's are taking their next 5months of hibernation in the garage in exchange for stickers going back with some 215/50 general altimax artic12 snow tires. Couldn't complain for 80$ for a barely used set. We'll see how they do compared to Michelin iceX, or Hankook icept evos I've ran on other prior owned subies.

[Max Capacity]

Anyone have tips on how to loosen the flare connection in the oil line that connects to the top of the turbo? I saw a few write ups that mentioned bending it out of the way for turbo removal but scared it's going to kink/break.

 

Had a 17mm wrenches on the top and bottom but couldn't get it to budge. Soaked in pb blaster and going to try again tomorrow.

 

If your careful, you can bend the line towards the middle of it. That's how I did mine back in 2011 or so.

 

Edited November 19, 2021 by Max Capacity

[Code]

Yea be careful! I replaced the hardline from flare to turbo with a braided stainless line while I had the turbo off.

 

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-030

[Max Capacity]

Yea be careful! I replaced the hardline from flare to turbo with a braided stainless line while I had the turbo off.

 

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-030

 

There are a number of places to get those fittings from. The Parker Store is one place where Industry buy's AN and other fittings from. You may be able to find a store near you. I have purchased fittings from their stores. They sell to the public.

There are other company's too.

 

DK Loc is another place I've used when I was at work. But my first choice was still Parker Fittings.

[SubOperator]

Wanted to share this here. My older son was visiting his college friend in CT and when he came back home his 05 NA OB sounded like there was an exhaust leak. I thought it was weird as I did replace the midpipe with new OEM few years back and muffler flanges were in good shape. Also, I felt that the sound was coming more from the front of the vehicle rather than from the rear.

 

 

So checked under the car and found the one bolt holding on of the cats was completely missing and the other was about to fall out, there was no nut on it. Now these are heat-treated bolts and nuts, there was no rust on them at all, clean threads and all. Flanges are good too.

 

 

 

So it's either a miracle that the two bolts holding the cat to exhaust manifold both decided to get loose at the same time on 16 years old car. Or may be the OB was a target of cat thieves - few days after this happened CT police nabbed 2 guys from RI cutting exhausts off the trucks...

 

 

 

The OB is back on the road with new gasket and hardware. But keep an eye on where you park, I guess this is how we are becoming more European....

[dougyj01]

My quest to do cheap exhaust is at an end. After a failed attempt at installing the "cheap" 270 dollar DNA motoring exhaust on an N/A while it fit, It hung way too low and sounds crappy, and the baffles failed within a month. Found a replacement Midpipe on ebay for like 150 and to my surprise bolts up perfectly, Wrx exhaust flange is twisted and one is too long somehow and one mount is in a different location on each muffler, I thought doing just flanges would fix it, and thought the cheap dna catback was just placed weird.

 

For another cheap project Bought a alpine cda-9887 for 150, and a 1din plus pocket off ebay for 10 bucks, trying to do a modified cubby pocket install because i miss having real audio, My audio control LC2i pro just doesn't cut it. Will be trying to see if i can bondo a solution up.

[cheeseenlo]

Recently installed 18x8 ET44 wheels with 235/40 UHP Michelin All Season 4 caused some minor rubbing at the front fenders. Raised up the car a bit to see if I can clear it without adding more negative camber. Currently -2.2 up front.

 

Also - Moog front sway bar links were shot! Installed Kartboys and surprised how easy the install was with the spacers on a stock sway bar.

[whitexc]

Nice links. Pics of the wheels installed? What are the suspension mods?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[cheeseenlo]

Here you go.

 

I took a chance on these wheels after watching a review on them. I don't think there's another Legacy out there that's running this wheel from my knowledge. The wheel itself is for 86 / BRZ / FRS fitment, some options were much wider but I didn't want to introduce additional fitment issues so I stuck with 18x8, although offset went from ET48 to ET44.

 

 

This company is definitely a super low-key wheel manufacturer making small volume, high quality forged (and light) wheels. It's easily confused with TSW which I guess helps with theft It took a month of waiting which isn't bad compared to what I've seen/heard from other high-end forged wheel brands.

 

Overall, I'm over the moon with this setup. Each wheel comes in at just under 15lbs. This is my first set of forged, expensive AF wheels since I came from the Rota Gravels. Hopefully no loss in integrity since the Gravels were SOLID. Suspension wise, I'm on RCE Tarmac 1s with RCE lowering camber plates clocked for additional caster. Alignment right now is -2.2 camber front, -1.5 rear, 0 toe f/r and 7 degree of front caster.

[xt2005bonbon]

Your car looks really good. Paint looks mint too. Must be a nice sleeper with the Blouch.

[whitexc]

Wow, watch that video and you will be buying those wheels...no matter how much they cost! I didn't even get to looking at the price of them. Very nice, for sure.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Edited November 19, 2021 by whitexc

[Marvick08GT]

Blew the engine grabbing pizza for my son's birthday (@2600 miles). Comments welcome in my ridiculous thread.

 

Suffice to say I am not happy. Luckily has a 1yr 12k mile warranty.

[Infosecdad]

Decided to figure out why my rear wiper was acting wierd.

Pretty sure those wires are supposed to be connected to each other...

 

Some pre-soldered shrink connectors and a heat gun and they are good to go.

 

Had a little warm weather, so she got a bath.

I found a set of Legacy STi 18x7.5 wheels from Japan, had to wait 3 wks for shipping, but they are gorgeous.

 

 

 

 

After some time with the STi Genomes I realized that I like the Titanium sound better, so Ganadors are on and Genomes are for sale (along with the Prodrive wheels)

 

I should be done for a while, need to save up for a 6mt and the future small block

[Max Capacity]

That's one good looking wagon you got there.

[SubOperator]

Decided to figure out why my rear wiper was acting wierd.

Pretty sure those wires are supposed to be connected to each other...

[ATTACH]294265[/ATTACH]

 

Some pre-soldered shrink connectors and a heat gun and they are good to go.

 

Had a little warm weather, so she got a bath.

I found a set of Legacy STi 18x7.5 wheels from Japan, had to wait 3 wks for shipping, but they are gorgeous.

[ATTACH]294266[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]294267[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]294268[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]294269[/ATTACH]

 

After some time with the STi Genomes I realized that I like the Titanium sound better, so Ganadors are on and Genomes are for sale (along with the Prodrive wheels)

 

I should be done for a while, need to save up for a 6mt and the future small block

 

 

LGT Wagon in white has a special spot in my heart. May be one day I'll be able to grab one.

[Pleides]

Not that exciting, but I installed a cheap replacement door lock actuator from China. The housing is OEM, so I'm assuming it's built with components very likely of similar quality to what's in the factory unit. Hoping it lasts awhile. I know several of you have had to replace these things!

[MajorWood]

Decided to figure out why my rear wiper was acting wierd.

Pretty sure those wires are supposed to be connected to each other...

[ATTACH]294265[/ATTACH]

 

There is an entire thread devoted to that wire boot. On mine, all wires eventually broken, BTW, one end of the backup lights wire was up against the rear wiper wire, so when I put the car in reverse the wiper would move, but not when I put the wiper in the on position. Even as a card carrying neurophysiologist I was impressed with this level of spontaneous "auto-spinal" rewiring. FWIW, all of those wires are crap and others may break down the road. I just ran 14 new flexible stranded wires through the boot and made the appropriate connections on each side (see post in "wagons beware tailgate electricals" thread)

[finsta]

Got a question lockout question for 6 speed owners:

I have a Cobb short shifter, ran it down super low and as you can imagine, the reverse lockout cable got chafed on the driveshaft. Ziptied and increased the height. Now, as time went on, I went back to stock height. Cobb lists the short shifter of having +- 1 inch of wiggle room so I just bottomed it out and went up 1 inch. My lockout would not fully retract down the shaft once out of reverse. It was vibrating brutally so I swapped it out for a Billetworkz one, no rattle. Greased it a fair amount with white lithium grease when installing it, hoping it would fix the issue. Nada. It doesn't fully reset downward so there are times you can go all the way over towards reverse. Wondering if anybody has encountered this or has suggestions?

[Marvick08GT]

Finsta, you need a new cable brother. Once the shield on the cable is damaged, water gets in and makes it stiff (get stuck)

[finsta]

Finsta, you need a new cable brother. Once the shield on the cable is damaged, water gets in and makes it stiff (get stuck)

 

 

That sucks, but I appreciate the fast reply. Looks like another addition to the parts order list.

[tysparks81]

So what is the asking price?

 

It sold in under 30mins of me posting it.

 

I also have an s402 jdm black upper trim pieces minus upper roof panel if anyone is interested that I have been sitting on for over a year sourced everything for a local guy and he had an accident with his car.

 

Grabbed a damd d shaped wheel as well but not sure if I will be selling it or throwing it on the car

[ohno06gt]

Installing a turbo and I'm struggling so bad with getting the vacuum lines connected to the compressor housing and wastegate. Any tips on connecting and getting zip ties on these lines?

 

Got the wastegate one connected but now trying to secure it. Compressor housing I'm thinking about taping the hose to a wire hanger with a zip tie on loosely then fishing it on, cutting the tape and tightening the zip tie.

[lagwagon]

I spent yesterday rewiring my wife's hatch harness as her wiper wasn't stopping at the correct spot. This is the third time it's been rewired. First was by a Subaru specialist shop, that lasted 6 months (I found twisted and taped, non-soldered connections), second was by me, which has lasted since the end of 2018 and third was yesterday. The sections of wire that I left in place from the first rewire have all cracked and have now all been replaced.

 

I'm not sure what size they used but it was only 4 strand, while my 18ga looks to be 8 or 10 strand.

 

I cleaned up the connections a bit and pulled longer lengths of twisted sets through the bellows so hopefully they won't break again (although there are still individual wires, not twisted in a bundle.

 

Some of the body side harness wires are starting to dry rot and crack, well away from any connections or bends so I'm thinking the next time this happens it'll need to go to a specialist to have much more replaced than I am able to do with my typical 4 hour time slot each weekend.