What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[xt2005bonbon]

Can you upload a picture?

[KZJonny]

26 minutes ago, ohno06gt said:

Tried to pull my ball joint today with the astro pneumatic tool.  It ripped the threads right off the ball joint so now I'm really stuck.   All the shops around are scheduled 2-3 weeks out so trying to figure this out. 

I was able to get the castle nut past the bad threads to secure the control arm to use for leverage.  Not sure where to go from here.   I've stuck a socket in the gap between the lca and knuckle and lowered the car but it's still not coming out.

Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

You need to keep using a series of progressively larger sockets. I’ve used the method a couple times now, and it hadn’t failed.

As long as that nut is holding the lca in place firmly enough that it won’t be pushed off by the springs as you repeat the process, you should be good. (If it is questionable, a couple of tack welds are a good idea, if you have a Mig….)

I want to say I had to get up towards a 7/8” or 15/16” impact grade socket (OD??) before the ball joint popped loose enough a pry bar was able to do the rest.

A liberal bath in penetrant, and a cold chisel carefully tapped into the gap in the knuckle complete the assembly…

Do I need to mention you want to pack that new ball joint in anti-sieze when it goes in?

Pack that bastard in anti-sieze when you install it.  

Edited November 28, 2022 by KZJonny

[cheeseenlo]

So, some unfortunate news. The car had a major engine failure. The car was on the dyno when it happened at Prime Motoring. Basically, the car was doing a pull which it completed but shut off right afterwards. It would crank over but wouldn't start. They haven't torn down the car yet but believe it could be a broken camshaft which is very unusual. I'll be sure to update with what they end up finding.

The car made great power, 440hp/350tq on 93 pump gas. This was on the 6MT. Previously on the 5MT, the car made 398/355. Boost peaks at 21psi, this Blouch 1.5XTR continues to impress. 

Right now, I've pulled the trigger on an IAG 700 Long block. I went back and forth between a short block only vs. the long block. I took advantage of all the Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals but it still a lot of money up front. All oiling system components except the pan will be new. I'll likely get the turbo sent back to Blouch for full teardown to ensure there's no debris or damage that will hurt the new motor. 

Any recommendations on other parts to replace would be greatly appreciated. This is my first engine rebuild so I'm learning along the way. 

[Enlight]

Sorry to hear about your blown engine, let us know what you find. I'm going through a similar situation right now and also took advantage of the various Black Friday deals (detailed in my signature). My short block is an IAG Stage 2 Tuff, not as stout as your 700. Are you including new cam gears and AVCS solenoids under your oiling components? Oil flows through those as well.

[cheeseenlo]

11 hours ago, Enlight said:

Sorry to hear about your blown engine, let us know what you find. I'm going through a similar situation right now and also took advantage of the various Black Friday deals (detailed in my signature). My short block is an IAG Stage 2 Tuff, not as stout as your 700. Are you including new cam gears and AVCS solenoids under your oiling components? Oil flows through those as well.

Yea, I blame it on the 6MT swap from earlier this year. It's been a never ending streak of bad luck / unforeseen events since. If I kept the 5MT, I think the motor would be still alive. 

Either way, yes, I'm getting new cam gears, solenoids, 11mm oil pump and oil pickup. I've deleted my oil cooler since I have a KB header w/ a sandwich plate adapter for a future oil cooler. So that's one item, I didn't have to buy new.

I'm really hoping that once this new long block is in I can really enjoy the car with the 6MT. 

[kzr750r1]

Common answer about the pan has been they can hide debris even after several attempts to clean. May be best to replace to save future frustration with the new parts.

 

[bobglaub]

oil pans are super cheap off rockauto.  don't waste your energy cleaning the old one, just replace it for peace of mind.  when i killed my engine anything that touched oil got replaced.  heads rebuilt at a reputable ship, and i got a new SB from subaru because i was already over my budget as I'd just rebuilt an STI.  The subaru life chose me that year.  

[cheeseenlo]

Thanks everyone.

The car currently has a KB oil pan w/ their baffle and pickup. I figured the pan would be pretty easy to clean. I went with a new KB pickup for piece of mind since I would think it's more difficult to clean. Prime Motoring actually didn't advise to replace those items but I went ahead with a new pickup anyway. 

Being OCD, I ordered all new camshaft position, crankshaft position and knock sensors as well. The crank and knock sensors are a PITA to get to with the manifold installed. I figure spend the money now with new sensors. Hoping everything else that is carried over from the old long block will survive and not deteriorate when uninstalled. 

I'm so over budget, it really hurts to see the grand total. Majority of it is just parts. Everything just costs so much and it adds up quick. The labor is actually fairly reasonable if you get a long block vs short block. 

[effnakedteeth]

12 minutes ago, cheeseenlo said:

I'm so over budget, it really hurts to see the grand total. Majority of it is just parts. Everything just costs so much and it adds up quick. The labor is actually fairly reasonable if you get a long block vs short block. 

I just wrapped up a parts buying extravaganza for my engine replacement, even with my spreadsheet its crazy to see the current total. I'll be about a grand over my projected budget when I get the turbo and PCV hose not replaced by the AOS. I'm not doing anything special either. I don't know how the hot-rodding / racing people can do it constantly.

[kzr750r1]

Feel the pinch as well. KB has some different baffling, good luck. I get it they are not cheap.

Nowhere near stage 3 and Having a hell of a time with my last rebuild. Hoping it's just a bad gas station but well see after we limp this fuel clear for a fresh refill.

[NORULZleggy]

19 hours ago, cheeseenlo said:

Thanks everyone.

The car currently has a KB oil pan w/ their baffle and pickup. I figured the pan would be pretty easy to clean. I went with a new KB pickup for piece of mind since I would think it's more difficult to clean. Prime Motoring actually didn't advise to replace those items but I went ahead with a new pickup anyway. 

Being OCD, I ordered all new camshaft position, crankshaft position and knock sensors as well. The crank and knock sensors are a PITA to get to with the manifold installed. I figure spend the money now with new sensors. Hoping everything else that is carried over from the old long block will survive and not deteriorate when uninstalled. 

I'm so over budget, it really hurts to see the grand total. Majority of it is just parts. Everything just costs so much and it adds up quick. The labor is actually fairly reasonable if you get a long block vs short block. 

This is why it took me about 3 years to build mine. I bought all the parts when sales came around, and saved up money so i was not hurting when the time came to sed her off. By the way the moroso oil pickup is legit with stock pan. I know people want KB cause the name and that what people see other, but I went a different route and it's fine. In the long run if you're going to keep the car it's cheaper than buying these new hunks of junk with no heart. they all look the same and are overpriced. 

[bobglaub]

I also have the stock Oil Pan and moroso pickup.  can confirm on its legitness.

But I also get if you have a KB pan you'd want to re-use it.  I probably would too.

[lagwagon]

Played around with idle rpm on the drive to work today. Cold weather stalling at stops has returned but increasing the idle rpm didn't work this morning like it did last year*. Still no vacuum/boost leaks that I can find but AF Learning A is at -7 and B is at +9, C is at -3 and D is at 0. Injectors were replaced in the spring with reconditioned and tested OEM, valve cover breather hoses were replaced at the same time. TGV gaskets and intake manifold gaskets were replaced a couple of years ago. Not sure what to do other than try a different shop?

 

*at one point I had adjusted idle to +300, idle was at 750 rpm, and idle error was at 0%, meaning the engine otherwise would've wanted to be at 450 rpm??? Coolant temps looked good (185) and AF sensor seems to be working properly (both CT and AF sensors were replaced about a year ago with OEM). Stage 0 ACN 91, no mods, global timing pulled 2° I believe, due to crap fuel.

[xt2005bonbon]

I am not saying that's your problem, but both of my cars suffered from a poor electrical connection at the MAF (due to old MAF wiring harness). So I purchased two iWire MAF sensor plugs with crimps and eventually replaced the original MAF plug with it on both cars. My AF learn values are very stable now, which also help overall engine throttle response.

[awfulwaffle]

My car also suffered from a persistent MAF/fuel trim issues that were fixed by replacing the connector. Then I had to go to a big tube intake to get more MAF range which opened up a can of new issues.

 

So, just finished retuning the car on speed density. Just saying, I have a working Merpmod map and defs for an 05 5mt GT if anyone wants to go fishing with dynamite to address MAF troubles. Bring your own IAT sensor.

Boost by gear, flat foot shifting  and blinking CEL for feedback knock also confirmed working.

[Code]

Man I'd love to have a blinking CEL for FBK.

[lagwagon]

2 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I am not saying that's your problem, but both of my cars suffered from a poor electrical connection at the MAF (due to old MAF wiring harness). So I purchased two iWire MAF sensor plugs with crimps and eventually replaced the original MAF plug with it on both cars. My AF learn values are very stable now, which also help overall engine throttle response.

I've looked at that before, maybe you even suggested it last winter. My values are stable, they'll be like this all winter, and then return to normal when it warms up. The only time they change is when I change fuel brands, but that only affects C and D. I might need to do that plug just to see what happens. Wiggling the plug and harness doesn't cause anything unusual to happen but could still be a less than ideal connection.

[xt2005bonbon]

18 minutes ago, Code said:

Man I'd love to have a blinking CEL for FBK.

BtSsm for the win! It blinks at you and even beeps at you if you want it to. And not just for FBK. It can do it for almost anything for that matter.

Edited November 30, 2022 by xt2005bonbon

[xt2005bonbon]

14 minutes ago, lagwagon said:

I've looked at that before, maybe you even suggested it last winter. My values are stable, they'll be like this all winter, and then return to normal when it warms up. The only time they change is when I change fuel brands, but that only affects C and D. I might need to do that plug just to see what happens. Wiggling the plug and harness doesn't cause anything unusual to happen but could still be a less than ideal connection.

I see. For me, the idle trim gradually went way negative (including the other fuel trims too) and the car was responding like crap. Then I had to twist the connection a certain way and it became better but then problem happened again. Got sick of it and replaced the connector. All good now.

For you, if the fuel trim remains quite stable, then I'd doubt that is it. All I know is this MAF sensor is very sensitive!

Edited November 30, 2022 by xt2005bonbon

[lagwagon]

42 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I see. For me, the idle trim gradually went way negative (including the other fuel trims too) and the car was responding like crap. Then I had to twist the connection a certain way and it became better but then problem happened again. Got sick of it and replaced the connector. All good now.

For you, if the fuel trim remains quite stable, then I'd doubt that is it. All I know is this MAF sensor is very sensitive!

I'll report back once I get it installed. I'm crossing my fingers it's something this simple instead of, say, redoing the TGV gaskets again.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

I didn’t do anything to my car, but I did just pay to have my brakes fixed after I sheared off the caliper bracket bolt on the pass side. Also got a flush, which was due. Not thrilled to have to pay someone to fix my mistake, but I was grateful that it was able to be fixed. Plus I wanted my daily back…it was down for 2 weeks. This is the only car I’ve owned that i get withdrawal from lol. Driving it home tonight I fell in love with it all over again. So nice to be back in it…shout out to my 85 s10, thankfully it came to the rescue again. It wasn’t happy about the cold but it’s still an old school chevy rock. 

Edited December 1, 2022 by SoobyDoobyDoo

[Febreze Mee]

14 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

This is the only car I’ve owned that i get withdrawal from lol. 

You said it! 

[lagwagon]

Cleaned the battery terminals. Just replaced my 9 year old red top with a new higher amp battery and now the car is hard starting (it wasn't before on the red top). It's a Canadian Tire battery, but the higher amp one. It could still be crap. Car ran great on the drive to work, no stalling issues after the battery reset. I hope it's the same this afternoon. Temps are down to -21°C and -28°C with the wind chill.

[xt2005bonbon]

That's cold!

[GearJamr]

18 minutes ago, lagwagon said:

Cleaned the battery terminals. Just replaced my 9 year old red top with a new higher amp battery and now the car is hard starting (it wasn't before on the red top). It's a Canadian Tire battery, but the higher amp one. It could still be crap. Car ran great on the drive to work, no stalling issues after the battery reset. I hope it's the same this afternoon. Temps are down to -21°C and -28°C with the wind chill.

Betting you are in Alberta?