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effnakedteeth

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    2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Wagon

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  1. Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Wagon Color: White Miles: ~182,000 Body/Chassis and ~2,100 on engine and turbo Transmission: 5EAT Title: Clean Washington title Lien: No Location: Mount Vernon, WA VIN: 4S3BP676457326806 Seller's email address: e_larock@hotmail.com Asking Price: $8,000 Bought in October 2022 thinking that the seller having recently replaced the turbo was a good thing. First oil change in my care and it was a glitter party. Sucked, but I've always wanted to pull and engine and put one back back in, so I used this as the time to do since I was working virtual still for the most part. Pulled the engine and removed everything from the shortblock (still have and you can have it if you'd like). So here is a list of what I've done or purchased to get this running again. New EJ257 Shortblock Reworked heads ARP head studs Rebuilt VF-52 turbo by JMP Grimspeed 3 port boost controller Grimspeed up-pipe (resistor mod for no check engine light) Cobb catted downpipe (have OEM as well) New gaskets New engine wiring harness New coolant, vacuum, and fuel lines IAG air/oil Separator New OEM intercooler (have original untested stil) NGK one colder spark plugs Cobb Accessport - E-tuned with Cryotune Killer-B oil pan Primitive Racing Skid Plate New fluids in transmission (and filter), differentials, and brakes New power steering pump (have original for rebuild I'll include) New oil cooler New oil pump New water pump (Aisin) and timing belt kit New AVCS solenoids Aluminum AVCS cam pulleys IAG AVCS and turbo oil line Silicone turbo oil drain tube that connects to the air/oil separator as well That is all I can think of at the moment, but I can go through my spreadsheet and answer questions if needed. Interior is tan and all there. No cracks on the dash. Replaced the radio with a JDM dash kit and Atoto head unit for wireless android auto. Needs: Driver inner CV boot has failed (have replacement) Suspension all around is drivable, but is needing refresh (have all parts to include in sale that also includes a Whiteline front and rear sway bar kit) The interior air blend door is starting to click which means it should be replaced. Still works and moves the air where wanted, but clicks and vehicle shut down. Rear passenger door lock works, but is getting to a point I think it should be replaced. I'll get some interior pictures up soon. Exterior is clean, but is a parking lot warrior, biggest dent is rear passenger wheel arch that can kind of be seen in the picture. If I can get full price, I'll include the Enkei RPF-1 wheel set.
  2. I appreciate your response and encouragement along with those of others. I replaced the power steering pump today and it just reinforced I've got other priorities I need my time for. I'll be listing it for sale locally in Mount Vernon, WA if you or anyone on here may know an interested person. I'll work on creating a for sale post sometime this week or next weekend.
  3. I think I reached my endpoint today. Lifted the front end to start a suspension refresh and power steering pump replace. Saw some oily fluid leak evidence and the inner driver cv boot had split and flung grease around. Must have been recent as it looked ok when the engine was out 2000 miles ago. I'm done working on this thing. Thinking of parting it out or selling. Coming here to get thoughts and experiences on parting a car out. 2005 white wagon with the 5EAT, new 257 short block, reworked heads, JMP VF52 rebuild, new engine wiring harness, all new vacuum and cooling lines, Cobb downpipe and accessport, IAG canister, tuned by Cryotune with 2000 miles on engine. Have all new suspension components to replaced bouncy bits and control arms, and whiteline sway bars. Oh, also has the JDM radio bits. Runs fine, steering pump has starting squeeking on full lock at low speed.
  4. Are they posted in the forum somewhere? Or more important for me, are they ever up in the north sound areas?
  5. I did this couple weeks ago. Let me know your thoughts on the brightness of the HVAC display, I think it is pretty dim in the day.
  6. Pulled the trailer hitch off the car finally. The exhaust post Cobb down pipe is together, but I'm wondering for how long? That will have to wait for another time as the suspension and control arms are shorter for this world and the Whiteline sway bar kit is just hanging out in the garage.
  7. I polished my headlights and installed the JDM kit for a replacement head unit. The hvac module is pretty dim. Anybody else install and think the same thing? If I turn on parking lights or headlights, the display almost disappears during the day it gets so dim. I also have a clicking going on now behind the radio.
  8. As an update to my dipstick tube leak, I was able to remove and replace with the Small Car Performance flexible dipstick. It's a bit long for this application, which was expected, but its workable. The o-rings were noticeably larger than the Killer B o-rings on the tube I removed. The gauge markings appear pretty close as well.
  9. I think I found a solution to try first... https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/flexible-dipstick-kit-for-subaru-engines/
  10. That's bugs me now as mine offered no struggle. Lubed up and slipped in. I'm calling shops now to see about them doing a pan removal and reseal. I don't want to screw around with this on my back under the car.
  11. I've done nothing physical to the car today. I've only been thinking about it and feeling regret. I performed my first oil change after a short block rebuild and since I am running a Killer B oil pan, I'd go up the 6 quart fill instead to the 5 quart I did for the initial fill. Pulled out of the garage to go to work last week and noticed a new spot on the cardboard I've been keeping under the car to check for leaks. When I pulled back in, looked under the car and saw a drip forming on the pan. I was dreading it possibly being from the fumoto valve or stripped threads in the pan or something. I ignored the car until the weekend when I planned on lifting it to put a skid pan and mud guards on. Turns out that the oil was coming from the spout where the dip stick tube installs. Thats where the real regret comes, because when I installed it with the o-ring(s) (can't remember as its been awhile, but I used whatever came with the pan) I thought the tube went in way too easy compared to how difficult it was to remove from the OEM pan. I was in follow directions mode and didn't think much more about it. What a bummer. Tried cleaning the area and applying some RTV knowing full well it likely wouldn't work (it didn't), but it was some action I could take to make myself feel like I maybe helped the situation. Now internet searching, I'm dreading the thought of what it takes to correct this properly.
  12. After way too long in the garage I was finally able to take my new shortblock rebuild out for a 15 minute data log drive. Have a P0458 code popping up. Installed an IAG AOS, so wonder if that has something to do with it? There was a slight squeal coming from the transmission or possibly steering pump. I think its worked itself out by the end of the test run. Man it's pretty nerve wracking to start up your first engine out job.
  13. I just wrapped up a parts buying extravaganza for my engine replacement, even with my spreadsheet its crazy to see the current total. I'll be about a grand over my projected budget when I get the turbo and PCV hose not replaced by the AOS. I'm not doing anything special either. I don't know how the hot-rodding / racing people can do it constantly.
  14. Picked up a full set of coolant hoses, head gaskets, valve stem seals from a local shop. Dropped the valve stem seals and my heads off at a machine shop. Probably going to wait for Thanksgiving sales now for other parts needed to get get the engine back in.
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