cheeseenlo

@kanazteck261Can you upload some photos of the 08 seats and door cards?

@partout I actually do. Send me a DM. Thanks!

What advantage is there with the STi controller over our stock one? I recently installed a Radium single pump w/ a Walbro 450 coming from the stock hanger with a AEM 340. It also bumped up my fuel pressure which I had to re-adjust at the regulator. 100% agree. Pricey but it's complete with everything you need. This kit installed with the Radium hanger makes everything super neat.

I considered PC'ing my Brembos white but ended up going with gloss black. The gloss black does mar pretty easily so I wish I went with another color. If you guys want to explore Cerakote. I think this is a viable option for its durability and chemical resistance. Color spread is not as extensive as typical powdercoating but I think Cerakote has it's benefits.

@DoctorDaveLGT This is tempting. My passenger side has a crack in it and this would be a fix and an upgrade. I'm assuming this is just a plug and play swap right? One day I'd love to do the JDM folding mirrors too.

Wow, nice work with the fender rolling. 9.5" +35 looks tough. What size spacers did you use with the stock wheels?

@KZJonnyThe oil filter fitment is due to the Killer B Holy headers w/ the factory cooler and sandwich plate. If all 3 are installed you'll have a hard time installing a longer filter or even the factory blue one. When I test fitted everything the OEM blue filter was literally touching the header. I'll see if I can dig up the NASIOC thread but Killer B even states / recommends the delete of the factory oil if you add a sandwich plate adapter with their headers. The only caveat for the cooler delete is you'll need to plug the port near the oil filter and cap the nipple off the water pump. For my rebuild, I requested that the shop install a new 08-14 WRX water pump. That specific pump does not have the extra nipple for the oil cooler.

@Enlight IAG does NOT provides the o-rings. You'll need an ORB fitting on the rail side. I can't remember exactly, but I believe I got -8AN ORB to -6AN. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT985068ERL Also, I also had fitment issue with a brand new Killer B header. Pry bar was the way to go. It looks like you have a sandwich plate adapter. I have a Mocal oil cooler and I had to delete the factory oil (pre) cooler to make everything work. As for the TR filter it won't fit, I resorted to using stock sized OEM blue filters which is still a close fit. Try to see how well a OEM blue fits for you. I remember it touching the header which made me delete the cooler.

@Enlight I thought about your build when I read this on NASIOC. Pulling Killer B's response regarding cold start wear. The block heater in my opinion is still the way to go for a cheap/simple solution for under 50F weather. Unfortunately, Prime Motoring wasn't able to source a new one for my build so I don't have one installed. So lately, I've been idling until coolant temps are 160-170F before I pull out of the garage. I really need a gauge to show actual oil temperature. My Innovate MTX gauge shows pressure in numerical form but temperature as a fill bar so it's not easy to determine right away. Professional race teams pre-heat engines because clearances are too tight. You can't spin an F1 or Nascar crank assembled in an engine on a stand. They are built for optimum clearance AT working temperature. If you hot tank a Suby rotating assembly to 200° and check the clearances, they are huge. Well beyond the FSM specs. We like to build our high engine engines very tight compared to traditional clearances, which means care must be taken when cold. NO boost until +180° oil temp, but do not recommend excessive idling. From UOAs we've done over the years we've found our engines have far less fuel dilution and oil breakdown with little to no warm-up idle time. The only time there's really not much choice in the matter is when running E85, with BIG injectors, in colder temps. You just can't do much until there is some heat in the engine. We're talking +800whp, although we've not run a setup like this in a couple of years, so maybe the tuning and injector tech has improved some since then? We use engine heaters when temps are below ~50° or a few hours before startup on the big builds. I use them even on my winter beater, which also has a mild built engine. Not that it's a must, but it definitely will open up the clearances some and the oil comes up to operating temp much faster. Not only that, but it's also great to get into the car when it's colder out, start it, the heat is already warm, and boost time comes much sooner . Also, no idling required. Oil may not be 'hot' but it is warmer, and the clearances are going to be enlarged promoting improved oil flow, even if the oil itself is cold. As far as the Zinc goes, we use break-in oil. Eons ago, we used additives, but no longer do. I can see if you are doing a big cam setup, and some of the cam MFGs recommend an additive, but otherwise, no. We did not have good results with T6, but every engine, driver, environment, application, is going to be different. Motul has been our brand of choice for a few years now and UOAs have been very good. I use it even in bone stock cars now too. Also of note, any engine that has been tuned, one of the first things we do is bump the idle RPM ~100-150, built engines with big power ~800-1,000 RPMs. We do this because at idle you are at the dead bottom of the efficiency range of the oil pump. Even bumping idle by 100 RPMs can have a pretty profound effect on oil pressure and flow. Furthermore, at 14-16psi HOT idle (14psi being the FSM minimum, and my recommendation for anyone a do not cross line in the sand) you're getting drips of oil from the turbo feed and the right exhaust cam passage. These are just my opinions based on my/our experiences here. Yours will vary, again, based on region, driving style, build, level of engine wear, application, etc., etc...

Welcome to the twin disc clutch gang! Did you do IAG's clutch adjustment? @08Spec_B

@RumblyXTWhat grease did you use for the CV rebuild? I also have two spare front axles I'd like to service at some point which were my original ones before my 6MT swap. The passenger side inner CV was getting cooked from the downpipe.

I've had my DDM HID kit (Apexcone Raptor) from 2010. Low beams were 55w. No issues except for a bulb going out this year. I looked back just now and the kit was $39.955. Crazy!

@darkstarxi Good luck with the pan removal. A rubber mallet and a solid whack helped me break the sealant from the block.

@59ctdNice work! How difficult was hose #3 from the expansion tank? I should address that sometime before the summer.

I agree with @BoozeRS05and @shralp 100%. With CO's you get what you pay for. Yes, the price ranges are wide with offerings which are relatively the same if you compare apples to apples in terms of adjustments. They lower the car and you get a knob to adjust dampening. But what really matter is long term reliability. The lower end / budget friendly CO's will get you to your desired height of the car. I can't speak for the ride quality for these exact COs but I would think they won't be great. You'll need to compare them against another set of COs or aftermarket setup. But I can guarantee they won't last nearly as long as a mid/high end product. I have a set of RCE Tarmacs for almost 10 years now, the bodies themselves have zero rust on them. Springs are still perfect except the helpers (chipped/rusty) which are basically compressed all the time. The collars have never seized on me. I run them with a 500lb/in or 9kg spring front and rear. My previously setup was Konis w/ Epic Engineering lowering springs. Rears had a saggy butt spacer. The Tarmacs rode better than the Konis IMHO.

@59ctdCheck the two hoses coming from the turbo overflow tank. #2 and #3 in the below diagram. I have a slight weep/leak coming from hose #3 at the connection to the overflow and I smell coolant all the time. This might be what you're experiencing as well.

@madrigHave you done a BL trunk garnish / license plate pocket?

@WRX USA It doesn't come with the Cobb shifter. The part you have is indeed what I need since it has the screw that's on the side vs. bottom for the STi specific 6MT lever. The Cobb 6MT STS I have is specific to the SpecB which has a cylindrical piece where this exact piece would bolt up to. It's insane how they had to make this part different from the STi 5MT. Do you remember what the PN was for this? Also since you got the WC Lathewerks Titanium collar, did you buy an STi shift lever to make it all work? I don't see a SpecB specific one.

Attempted to install a Cobb double adjustable shifter... Don't be an idiot like me and check the parts until 3 months after purchase. Granted, the car was in the shop for 2 months. I took advantage of the BF/CM deals so I bought (through IAG) the shifter and the package sat in the garage. Went to install it last night and found out the shifter was missing hardware. The top most allen head bolt and round nut was never installed when they assembled everything. Then I realized that the SpecB has a different style boot collar. I didn't know this until I took everything apart. Instead of it being fastened from the bottom, it's side mounted. My 6MT transmission has a JDM Forester/SpecB shifter assembly has their reverse lockout kit. I should've purchased the STi version of the shifter from the get go. I honestly thought all Subaru 6MTs had the same boot collar. 100% pure negligence on my end. VENT - I reached out to Cobb for the hardware. Immediately, they told me to go to IAG for an return/exchange and they didn't have the hardware available. IAG said they won't honor the exchange since it's outside their exchange/return window and told me to sell it privately. They recommended I reach out to Cobb for hardware specifics so I could source it myself. I literally spend over $10k on an IAG 700 Long Block plus accessories. It's frustrating and I get it's a business but it probably doesn't cost them anything if they could accept my return/exchange for the STi shifter while they sourced the hardware themselves, then sell it on clearance or whatever. I might just pick up the Kartboy shifter now. I had one on the 5MT without issues. I just liked the novelty of a 'double adjustable' short shifter. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST! If someone has a photo of the SpecB specific boot collar or has one for sale, I'd GREATLY appreciate it.

Damn! I wanted these so bad. Did you notice any increased NVH? Also - in case your back seat passengers needs a handle, I was thinking maybe add a paracord strap handle.

I absolutely hate coolant leaks. That stuff is a mess to clean up. The shop said they would replace any old / hard coolant hoses when the new block was being installed. They missed the one from the back of the turbo overflow reservoir. It's not too bad at the moment, but I can smell coolant after my drives. The worst part is it drips right over the cam position sensor. I haven't yet but I think it's definitely coming from the rear. One of these days I need to re-grease all the bushings. I also have KB endlinks front and rear, stock front swaybar, AVO rear swaybar and AVO reinforcements brackets. The rear sway bar bushings haven't been greased for like 10 years at this point.

That's surprising, I had their sleeve kit on my 5MT without issues. How many miles did the kit have before you had issues? Last night, I adjusted my parking brake. It required about 10-12 notches upwards before the rear wheels couldn't be moved. Backed it down 5 notches. Now the hand brake engages in 1-2 clicks. I'll need to adjust it at the handle next so it engages around 4-6 clicks. After a quick test drive, I was being locked out of 4th and Reverse for some odd reason. Adjusted the pedal stop again and went for a drive. It's so much better and doesn't have harsh / sudden engagements like previously mentioned.

@UnderdogFor the clutch pedal free play, it was 3/4 of a turn back towards the firewall. So essentially, the rod was extended as far into the cabin, then I turned it clockwise back towards the master cylinder. For the pedal stop, I just measured it to be 0.63in/16.21mm from the top of bolt. That's pretty substantial in my opinion. The clutch free play was difficult to gauge since I couldn't really 'feel' when it stopped. There's no real point where there was a jump in resistance. I believe the clutch pedal spring might be contributing to this behavior. With the pedal stop adjusted per the video, the clutch pedal throw is much shorter now and it's a bit odd driving the car. Its hard to explain but the engagements are much rougher now. To smooth things out, I have to wait a little bit longer before I start letting off on the clutch pedal.

@UnderdogI vote for 18s! I'm with you on ease of cleaning, which was definitely part of my decision with my latest wheels. Coming from Rota Gravels, I wanted to reduce the number of spokes I had to agitate with a brush during cleaning. Wider areas between each spoke meant I could fit my hand or wheel brush inside to reach within the wheel barrels and between the calipers. Michelin AS4's 235/40 is almost square on an 18x8 wheel with a slight bit of an edge guard. I can take better photos if you need but hopefully you can see what I'm talking about. My previous Hankook's had less of the protrusion than these tires on the same size.

@jareyYou'll want to remove the slave. Here's a quick video tutorial of what has worked in the past for me.