What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[KZJonny]

On 5/14/2024 at 5:29 PM, pleiadesfella said:

would anyone here be interested in picking up my old 07 lgt that has a built motor? it has no powersteering due to broken lines and needs brakes due to rusty rotors, so it's not worth putting back on the road considering it's a rusty canadian maritime car, though the motor still runs perfectly. I imagine some people here could make good use out of its motor and parts, as its getting no interest so far locally. one guy wanted to buy the motor off me for $1500 CAD, but ghosted me when I countered him for $1800, so here I am.

if anyone is willing to take it by trailer and keep it as a parts car, please let me know! depending on the cross-border interest, I might make a classifieds post for it here. I need it gone ASAP.

Sorry to hear man. If you were closer than NB I would be there to come get it, but too much going on right now between project cars and bikes + summer travels.

Post it up in the classifieds.

GLWS.

[rhino6303]

9 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Not a good day for me and my LGT yesterday.

Went to lunch break and when pulling from the parking lot to go back to the office, car started buckling like crazy, stalled and had some cray misfires (black smoke and pops from the exhaust). Barely made it to the office, car jerking, misfiring and stalling several times. Going back home after work was no fun at all but I made it.

CEL P0340 Camshaft position sensor. I know where crankshaft position sensor is but this one I did not run into yet. Not sure what caused it, may be yesterday being the first really warm day (75) and car sitting in the sun. Car starts fine and idles perfectly until I get moving and RPMs go 3K and above.

That sounds like the sensor might actually be bad. Our Tribeca had one fail and it would barely drive (bucking, etc).

I believe bank 1 is right side head (above cylinder 3).

You might check alternator voltage output just to be sure. A bad alternator can cause many electrical faults.

[SubOperator]

54 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

That sounds like the sensor might actually be bad. Our Tribeca had one fail and it would barely drive (bucking, etc).

I believe bank 1 is right side head (above cylinder 3).

You might check alternator voltage output just to be sure. A bad alternator can cause many electrical faults.

 

Thank you! Will be going through the electrical diagnostic per FSM, but alternator will be checked too. I have AC actuators to replace, so couple of long nights are ahead of me.

[KZJonny]

Took mine for the first highway trip of the year (just down the road to work, nothing exciting).

Probably the best part of not driving this car for half the year is the flood of getting to re-experience how frikking awesome it is when I put it back on the road.

Yeah, yeah, we all know this, but MAN this thing it a riot to drive. I mean it just quietly and smoothly takes down everything in it's way on the highway commute, and I'm not even pushing it much. New clutch and flywheel and all that.

Just comfortable, planted, power delivery with a nice little growl from the turboback when you punch it a little. 

I think I just signed up for continuing to empty my wallet into this silly thing for another year or two at least.

 

Less fun when you blow the boost/vacuum gauge line off and have to take things apart in the parking lot at work to re-install and zip tie!

 

[xt2005bonbon]

Wallet hurts right now :(. Just bought a new clutch kit and flywheel as well as blast plates for the trans. I contacted ZFdesign, described my current engine/turbo setup, explained my driving style including the light offroad type of stuff we do. He did advise to go with the copper backed 9 pad. We shall see how it goes.. Looking forward to separate the engine/trans on this particular car for the fourth time.. Last time I pulled the engine. This time, I will drop the trans.

 

Edited May 17 by xt2005bonbon

[Febreze Mee]

17 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Looking forward to separate the engine/trans on this particular car for the fourth time.. Last time I pulled the engine. This time, I will drop the trans.

Not to be a stick in your sarcastic mud, but I just swapped in @rhino6303's old 5MT into the car by myself on jack stands and had an absolutely blast swearing at the underside of my car for 12+hrs, as I kicked tools around trying to crawl out. A second set of hands would've helped shave down a couple minutes. Only every had the trans out twice. Engine out twice. Thinking I'll pull the engine next time I do a clutch to compare. Here's to the next 70K hard miles!

Degreased and cleaned. TS solid shifter linkage re-installed. TS short shifter reinstalled. WL crossmember bushings transferred. STi mount transferred. Kartboy shifter bushings reconnected. And best of all, TALLER GEARS! The LGT 5spd is MUCH more friendly than the Outback 5spd for highway driving, and I never want to hear y'all complain about it again until you've put miles on an Outback 2.5i 5spd (OBXTs have the same gears as LGTs, but different F/D). 

[xt2005bonbon]

I did drop the trans twice (on two different cars) and yeah, it is definitely a pain in the butt to remate the trans to the engine. That's the hardest part. The rest is not bad. I feel it is less work than removing the engine.

[rhino6303]

6 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Not to be a stick in your sarcastic mud, but I just swapped in @rhino6303's old 5MT into the car by myself on jack stands and had an absolutely blast swearing at the underside of my car for 12+hrs, as I kicked tools around trying to crawl out. A second set of hands would've helped shave down a couple minutes. Only every had the trans out twice. Engine out twice. Thinking I'll pull the engine next time I do a clutch to compare. Here's to the next 70K hard miles!

Degreased and cleaned. TS solid shifter linkage re-installed. TS short shifter reinstalled. WL crossmember bushings transferred. STi mount transferred. Kartboy shifter bushings reconnected. And best of all, TALLER GEARS! The LGT 5spd is MUCH more friendly than the Outback 5spd for highway driving, and I never want to hear y'all complain about it again until you've put miles on an Outback 2.5i 5spd (OBXTs have the same gears as LGTs, but different F/D). 

Nice. Shifts well still?

[Febreze Mee]

5 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

Nice. Shifts well still?

I would never have known it had 243K miles if you hadn't said so. It shifts wonderfully! Very happy. Thank you for letting it go a couple years ago. 

[m sprank]

Recalled that it was an 08 LGT 5EAT (highly modified) that brought my daughter home from the hospital when she was born.  Then noted that there has not been a Subie in the stable since 2020. 

2001-2020 always at least 1, usually more, Subies stabled. 

Times change.

[seanyb505]

I nEeD a TrUcK

[alex0856]

On 5/18/2024 at 12:02 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

I did drop the trans twice (on two different cars) and yeah, it is definitely a pain in the butt to remate the trans to the engine. That's the hardest part. The rest is not bad. I feel it is less work than removing the engine.

If you can get the car high enough to fit a trans jack that articulates and all that, it's 10000x times easier. Once I had mine a few inches away, I spent a good 30 minutes getting it lined up perfectly. Once I did, it more or less just slid right on. Best 180 bucks I ever spent.

[xt2005bonbon]

It is not exactly a trans jack but it does the job well. This is the one I got about 7 years ago. Still working great. And yeah, I jacked the car high enough so I could eventually put the trans on my bench and take the thing apart!

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-4000-lb-Triple-Lift-Floor-Jack-620422E/203116734

 

Edit: talk about inflation.. As you can see, it is listed at 254$. I checked my receipt and paid 99$ in 2017. Exact same thing. WOW!

Edited May 21 by xt2005bonbon

[Kojak]

Soo, my undertray has been toast since a possum strike in late February. Finally got around to searching and sho nuff, my specific model needs are for a part that is discontinued. Heuberger confirmed same. Wondered if anyone has experience w either the Rallitek or Primitive Racing skid plates. Both in OR, just a few dollars difference in price. Bit overkill for my general use but lowered/clearance considerations do arise. Much as I’m tempted to run naked down under, I shudder to think what may have taken the blow without coverage. Also tired of being ‘that guy’ when I back up in the preschool parking lot. Scrapes like a somamabitch. And we’re way past zip ties here. 

[KZJonny]

12 minutes ago, Kojak said:

Soo, my undertray has been toast since a possum strike in late February. Finally got around to searching and sho nuff, my specific model needs are for a part that is discontinued. Heuberger confirmed same. Wondered if anyone has experience w either the Rallitek or Primitive Racing skid plates. Both in OR, just a few dollars difference in price. Bit overkill for my general use but lowered/clearance considerations do arise. Much as I’m tempted to run naked down under, I shudder to think what may have taken the blow without coverage. Also tired of being ‘that guy’ when I back up in the preschool parking lot. Scrapes like a somamabitch. And we’re way past zip ties here. 

Probably both great. I am very happy with my Primitive skid plate + rear diff guard. Customer service was excellent and they send me new bolts when it turned out that the short ones do NOT fit over a Killer B header. I got the thinner one and it is plenty of protection for street use.
 

Makes a strong arguement for having an 'oil udder' style funnel for oil changes.... but that is relatively normal across the board. The EL headers just make the situation worse.

[xt2005bonbon]

I thought the 2008+ wrx undertray fits our car no?

[Kojak]

^haven’t checked on that wrx one yet. But I will. Leaning towards Primitive, too. Thanks fellas. 

[WRX USA]

I too have a Primitive and I’m very happy with the fitment, quality and customer service. They are only 3.5 miles away so I just drove over and picked it up.

[BoozeRS05]

Love my primitive plate, 7-8 years now. And second the thinner option, it’s more than enough for a daily driven street car. I’ve definitely hit some nice size ice chunks in the past and the ‘gong’ sound it made was music to my ears.

[Kojak]

Appreciate the input. Gong sound way more fun than what I have going on now. Didn’t realize how bad til a neighbor said it reminded him of bike wheels w cards in the spokes back in the day. Facepalm. 

[xt2005bonbon]

Well, driver side exterior front door handle just stopped working . It's not the actuator. It's the handle. Will have to take it apart tonight..

[pleiadesfella]

On 5/15/2024 at 7:09 PM, KZJonny said:

Sorry to hear man. If you were closer than NB I would be there to come get it, but too much going on right now between project cars and bikes + summer travels.

Post it up in the classifieds.

GLWS.

welp, she's gone. sold it this morning for not that much money to a local guy who wanted to fix it up for his son. wasn't worth it for me to put back on the road due to the expensive power steering repairs and all around brake rotors/pads it needed for inspection. that was my first ever car and I hope it has a good life afterwards.

now my focus is on my spec b, which I'm conflicted between selling and then importing a JDM legacy or keeping and pouring more money into. don't get me wrong, I love my spec b, but I mentioned before that I feel bad since it sat so long under my ownership due to extended winter storage + small but annoying issues popping up that prevent me from driving it. at this point I'm thinking of a relatively fresh start by selling it off and importing a low mileage, automatic JDM TBSTI as the ultimate all-round fun daily.

my spec b is going into the low idle related repair on friday. a new o2 sensor will be put in, but now I also suspect there's a leak in the intake system from a vacuum line, or the pcv valve is sticking. if the new sensor, new air filter and intake system check on friday doesn't solve the issue, the car's just going to keep sitting until the pcv valve can be replaced as I don't wanna risk driving it and blowing it up. here's to hoping it gets sorted.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

On 5/21/2024 at 11:37 AM, Kojak said:

^haven’t checked on that wrx one yet. But I will. Leaning towards Primitive, too. Thanks fellas. 

56410AG06F Seems to be the replacement, for 08+ Tribeca. Tribeca was based on the legacy chassis, so would probably work? Worked for my wife’s 06 Tribeca before we got rid of it…food for thought for an alternative to the primitive racing one. 
 

@pleiadesfella how low was idle? Mine seems to be low too…

Edited May 23 by SoobyDoobyDoo

[KZJonny]

2 hours ago, pleiadesfella said:

welp, she's gone. sold it this morning for not that much money to a local guy who wanted to fix it up for his son. wasn't worth it for me to put back on the road due to the expensive power steering repairs and all around brake rotors/pads it needed for inspection. that was my first ever car and I hope it has a good life afterwards.

now my focus is on my spec b, which I'm conflicted between selling and then importing a JDM legacy or keeping and pouring more money into. don't get me wrong, I love my spec b, but I mentioned before that I feel bad since it sat so long under my ownership due to extended winter storage + small but annoying issues popping up that prevent me from driving it. at this point I'm thinking of a relatively fresh start by selling it off and importing a low mileage, automatic JDM TBSTI as the ultimate all-round fun daily.

my spec b is going into the low idle related repair on friday. a new o2 sensor will be put in, but now I also suspect there's a leak in the intake system from a vacuum line, or the pcv valve is sticking. if the new sensor, new air filter and intake system check on friday doesn't solve the issue, the car's just going to keep sitting until the pcv valve can be replaced as I don't wanna risk driving it and blowing it up. here's to hoping it gets sorted.

JDM import is going to cost more in the long run than just fixing the Spec B, I would guess….

Rust free body aside anyway….

Pain in the ass getting hard to find JDM only parts here in Canada…

[pleiadesfella]

19 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

@pleiadesfella how low was idle? Mine seems to be low too…

it started off by dropping to 500 sometimes, then to 300, then stalling and restarting itself constantly at idle because it just can't hold it anymore.

as for my spec b, I think something's really wrong with it because when driving it to the shop today, I kept it in 2nd as I took a right turn onto a main road, and suddenly the car wouldn't accelerate after the turn. the engine was still running, trying to weirdly hold idle while I was actually on the throttle, stuck in the middle of the road. only after I downshifted into first and gave it some more gas, it started to rev up and get going. the car also stalled 3 times by itself when I was trying to back out of my parking spot, and also stalled immediately when I parked at the shop while my foot was fully depressing the clutch. the motor itself runs strong with no knock from what I can tell, but all these inconsistent issues around the motor are quite annoying. starting to get tired of all these problems.

17 hours ago, KZJonny said:

JDM import is going to cost more in the long run than just fixing the Spec B, I would guess….

Rust free body aside anyway….

Pain in the ass getting hard to find JDM only parts here in Canada…

yeah importing does cost quite a bit, and I'd get a bit screwed on the insurance because I'd have to get facility as providers on the east coast can't wrap their heads around a JDM VIN. but it's really tempting, as the cars are rust free and incredibly low mileage compared to local options in the country. I also want to import one as their ej20x motors are dirt cheap for me to buy in case I blow it up, and they also come with JDM goodies. would be great to have a car that comes with the JDM spec b front end and double din radio by itself . I'd really love a TBSTI model, but if I can't get that, I'd likely go for a spec b or wr limited in that case - granted I end up selling my current spec b. I'll just have to see what's in store for me as time goes on.