Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

KZJonny

I Donated
  • Posts

    1,354
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    40

Everything posted by KZJonny

  1. Pics when they're installed! I don't know if I've ever seen bi-xenon projectors in a GT in person. Probably not. I messed around with some of that, but ultimately didn't like the HID setup and tore it out in favour of OE + IR coated bulbs. But, I have the feeling that the newer lighting is better than the old stuff that came with my car, so I'm genuinely curious to know what it is like now.
  2. Appreciate the advice. Basic calculations say that 850's would max out at ~70% IDC. Lots of head room. Given that @Enlight seems to be doing just fine on a VERY similar setup with 1000cc injectors, I suspect I would be just fine for idle. I suppose I could collect both sets and if I have problems with the big injectors, then I can swap and tune. Else, I will either pass them along to whoever needs or wants, etc...
  3. Ah, yes. Those would leave lots of room. I never got to know SBT on here well, but everything he wrote and did suggests he did things right, and took care of his stuff. Reckon they'll fit in the carry on? Somehow I don't imagine you coming to this thing with checked luggage?
  4. Well.... 740 * 0.8 = 592 592/650 = 0.9107 So, the napkin math says they should hold up to your tune anyway? I reckon ~91% IDC is reasonably safe anyway. I tailchased you around a little being lullabied by the amazing sound of the Ganadors you had on at the time (I think?) Now, I don't think for a minute I could keep up in a high-rpm straght line run, but for the sweet sweet twisties, where you're limited more by traction and grip. My suspicion is that whatever magic you've got in your ECU will be about all I need or care to have. Like you, I can get full effort out of my pump as well, with the wiring + STi control module, which should help keep me on the right side of 14.7....
  5. I talk myself into everything. Always. I'll find some place that will tune for quality side feeds. Deutschwerks make good things, and if a tuner is squirrely about tuning for them, I'll move along. You can run a VF52 on stock injectors, it is only the + JMP Custom part of the equation that makes me think I will need a little headroom on the injectors. 650cc's should be sufficient for me. I do not have a built short block, so I am RPM limited by rods +valvetrain anyway. Please sign me up for them. I think I mentioned it elsewhere, but there is a place near me that does injectors cleaning, if you suspect that it is required, but if they were running fine for you before the big upgrade, then I imagine they'd be just fine for me as well.
  6. If ONLY someone made a car that was stylish, comfortable, reasonably powerful and say... came in a wagon format where you could practically lay out a double bed in the back. Wouldn't that be great? Think of the grand tour around the country you could take with one of those... You might even be inspired to call it a Grand Touring car, but that's too wordy. I propose calling it a GT instead, the instagrammers like everything short and sweet. One can dream.
  7. In theory yes..... I figure aside from injectors, which it will likely need with the Custom VF52, I am pretty much all set up for a little more power anyway. Pump + wiring + full exhaust, etc..... JMP VF52 + 3port EBC + maybe biggre injectors + tune. Done. That will likely be a next year problem tho. As I said before, I've got 2 months to get this engine put back together and into the car, and all the other little things that I'm bound to find along the way that need attention. Seems like a while, but I bet it flies by. I've also got to prep to get a garden in, do a handful or renos and try to see other humans enough that nobody sends the cops along for a wellness check. Piece of piss right? EDIT: I'll grab some photos tonight of what is going on. I definitely want some before and after of the parts, assuming I have any time this weekend to put together a dust extractor for the walnut shell blasting cabinet. Valve stem seals + injector o-rings should arrive tomorrow, so I can start putting together the new fuel rails as well.....
  8. + valve seals (in the mail right now) ya know.... while I am in there I abso-frikkin-lutely swear that this is it for the heads. Sticking with stock springs/retainers/cams... Until I need more RPMS.
  9. Yeah, I think I hate having free time enough that I'm going to do this "while I am in there". + clean and polish valves + lap any that are even the tiniest bit not perfect looking, or that do not pass the liquid test onve they've all been cleaned. And a massive +1 to having ultrasonic cleaners at your disposal. I have one at work, and it was my first experience with them. Awesome. Then I decided to get one for home, and I bought one big enough to put my 4 carberettor rack into for my KZ... Hence the 15L. Which, ironically I ended up breaking down the whole rack anyway and totally rebuilding those. I was completely sold when the carbs, which I had totally cleaned just the season before, with carb cleaner, hot water, dish soap and a scrub brush, etc.... went into the ultrasonic with some HD Simple Green..... after a 15 minute session in the US cleaner, there was SO...... MUCH......JUNK at the bottom of the machine, I could hardly believe it. Once I got those things back together after replacing all o-rings and polishing all the needles, jets + rejetting them anyway.... The bike has never run better. That and swapping in a AGM battery are the best bang for buck things I have done on that bike. So... yeah. They're not cheap, but if I find myself doing more of this, I think getting a bigger US cleaner would be justifiable. It would be best if it could fit the head from the L20B in the Datsun as well.... But that is an inline 4, so I don't know if it would work. (Also an iron head, so I can just use Sodium Hydroxide without worrying about damaging the metal.....) \m/
  10. If it behaves well for a little while on a cold start, it could be worth putting a hair dryer/heat gun on the cam sensor while the car is still running well. If this causes the erratic behavior to happen faster, (warm sensor failing) than it did the previous time, it would certainly help to condemn the sensor and justify the work. I didn't remember the cam sensor being that hard to get at, but my engine in peices all over the garage atm, so everything seems easy to access.
  11. I will be doing all those things as a quick check. Compression numbers will of course be low on a cold engine, but they should at least all be about the same. So, that is the place I will start. Got the heads back from the shop, and the more I think about it, I figure I am going to pull the valves, clean the backsides of the exhausts which have a little build-up, and replace all the valve seals. I've got 2 months, more or less before I *really* need this car on the road, so why not go all in on the head work while I have them off. sigh... On the other hand, the soda blaster arrived yesterday, and it looks surprisingly decently made for the cost. I am sure someone in China is proud of their work, but whatever. So far I have given almost everything a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner except the heads themselves, which *just* didn't fit. If I were to do a job like this again, I would certainly consider getting a bigger ultrasonic cleaner to just shove them in there whole. Mine is a 15L model, and they make a 20L which would hold the heads. Or, I could go all in and get a 30L and probably be able to do case halves!! In any case, between my blasting cabinet with walnut shell media and the soda blaster I will see what I can do about cleaning everything up some. As well as taking before and after pics of everything. Hopefully I can bring a little shine back to the old girl. We will see. It ain't the chrome that gets you home, but having everything be neat and tidy feels good anyway. Makes it easier to find leaks as well.
  12. Not a lot? But it would move. The car is a system, so it all works together… Hopefully you can track it down to something specific.
  13. Don’t mind at all man. I’m not planning on splitting the cases, no. Or removing the piston. I’ve already signed up for enough work, hah! We don’t get the Berrymans stuff here in Canada, but I’ll go looking across the border next time I’m over. And that block looks really good dude! If it was less cold here, I would consider it, but using a liquid degreaser + brush etc here right now…. *yeesh* I can’t afford to actually freeze my fingers off. Hah!
  14. I used to think the same. More vacuum = more good. But I got schooled by others here. Vacuum at idle for our cars should be around -10psi relative to atmosphere. Maybe a touch more or less (-11/-9) if everything is locked down super tight. More than that and you’ve probably got a restriction, dirty air filter, whatever. The entire intake system is designed to be smooth flowing. Eg: low restriction and hence low vacuum pressure at the manifold. (relative to cam profile, engine config, etc…) All that to say, more isn’t always better.
  15. Try bouncing the rear of the car? Sometimes sounds bounce around, and what you are *sure* is coming from one place actually isn't. Having someone else drive while you sit in the passenger or back seat with the windows open can sometimes let you figure things out that are hard while you are driving the car yourself. Find the longest brick/cement wall you can drive alongside, again with your windows open. It's sometimes amazing the noises you'll hear reflected off of things that you can't hear from in the cabin...
  16. Picked up the heads the morning. 7 thou off to flatten them up, so I have one more skim more or less before I need to either go to thicker head gaskets or swap to a new set of heads I guess? One more thing to start packratting I suppose. Guess I'll be heading to the scrapyard to pull the heads ouf of the 05 sedan there. Can't have too many, and more valve buckets it always a good thing.
  17. NP. Enjoy the ride on those B6s. If you haven't already, when the bushings in your front control arms get tired out, the Mevotech FCAs are pretty good, and are a pattern replica of the Spec B/STi ones. Nice little upgrade at a reasonable price.
  18. You're good. The chassis is the same between NA, GT and Spec. It's just the guts that differ. The mounting holes for the struts are all in the same places. Welcome to the forum.
  19. Ah! Yeah, if you're already tuned for the deletes, then all good. So, does that mean you have the 2.0L, if COBB won't talk to it? Or is it the 2.5L that is somehow different enough that you can't. I know Haltech doesn't have an off the shelf option for USDM 2.5L cars either, which is kind of too bad. Tho it is not in the same price range as a COBB at all....
  20. Ah, sorry. No, that's a typo. Early is 05-06, late is 07-09. My mistake. There are some other things about the year that matter, but nothing really critical. Radios and which models were available, and some years not having manual wagons in the US... If you are still able to to tune for the 2ndary air pump delete, then bully for you. I would hang on to all the equipment you remove, in case you either find you need it, or someone wants to buy it when they go to get a new tune and find out that to use a COBB now, you'd better have all your emissions stuff intact and functional...
  21. That should be fine. There is no difference in the intercooler between the pre and post facelift cars. At least there is not in the north american market..... Difference between 08-09 (facelift) and earlier (non-facelift) is that the later cars have a secondary air pump for emissions and no catalytic converter in the up-pipe. Late 4th gens also have top feed injectors, instead of side feed. D25 heads (late) vs. B25 heads (early). VF40 turbo ---> VF46 turbo, which are virtually the same. Not really big differences, and nothing that matters to the intercooler.
  22. Pretty sure I used 4mm reinforced silicon hose for the FPR reference. Also did the STi FPR at the same time. Fit up perfectly, and has been good for at least a year with no notable problems. I used that, and some 6mm in a few other places, which replaced *most* of the vacuum lines. I will do all the rest now that I have the engine apart, and the IM off. I highly doubt your engine is ever making enough vacuum to collapse a vacuum hose, as long as it is even decent quality. -10 psi isn't much.
  23. So this whole thing is snowballing on me (of course it is...) and not I'm messing around with flattening all the mating surfaces I can with the sharpening stone and some 400 grit paper wet sanded with oil, etc.... Just wanting to make sure that everything buttons back up nicely when the time comes to put it all back together. I am also getting a little OCD about cleaning up the outside of everything, and trying to remove a lot of the crud that has built up over 20 years of use. To that end I picked up a soda blasting canister, and it's in the mail. I know how good they can be for cleaning up old carbs and the like, but has anyone here used one to blast the outside of heads, cases etc....? I mean, I'll have a go and see what results I can get, but I'll take any advice that anyone has as well. My first thought has been to get a vapour blasting cabinet, but at a little over $2K USD, I figure I could just get a new short block with the money, and it would be plenty shiny. I may yet consider it if there is any demand in my area for vapour blasting/honing as an occasional weekend cash earner, but I'm kind of lazy as far as promoting that kind of thing, and don't use social media, so I suspect it would really be an excuse for me to pull the trigger on a cabinet. Thoughts always welcome. Taking a break from the 3 hours I've spent cleaning up ONE TGV SIDE. Ugh. But it looks a lot better than when it started, and the butterflies are gone now. I know it doesn't make much of a difference, but at least if the motor fails in the shut position, the car will at least still run fine, and not be a brick.
  24. Old credit card, or gift card or what have you. One of the 'cheap' new ones that you can flex, be about the right thickness.... the tool I got with a Gates kit years ago when they didn't suck isn't any thicker than that.
  25. Not from personal experience, but that of others here: There is a reason why you used to be able to find plastic/resin/composite TGVs on the market as a replacement for the aluminium ones, but no longer do. They weren't any good, and didn't stand up to the heat in the bay under hard use. Apparently even the thick phenolic spacers were not enough to keep them from warping and causing leaks. So, YMMV, but the general consensus is to either chop up and plug the holes in your OE TGVs, or get a set or tailor mades from your speed parts producer of choice.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use