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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Haven't had a chance to do much with my fleet other than required fluid changes because this semester has been so crazy.  But tonight I was finally fed up with the notchy Perrin short shifter plate for the cable 6mt. I used one of those stupid rebate VISA cards to order a COBB weighted short shifter plate (2015-2020 WRX fits the 2012 6mt). Installed it in about 30 min tonight and it is night and day better.  Notchiness is a thing of the past, it's so much smoother.  If you have a cable 6mt, don't waste your money on a Perrin, there is no mass and the combination of no mass and shorter shift makes it notchy.  I had a knock off Boomba, but it was bad and jammed up the linkage. I'm sure the real Boomba is good based on reviews, I just liked the shape of the COBB better.  

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Another vote for sell as is, and hang on for a while. This is also with some hindsight colouring the equation. I picked up my GT for $2500 CAD in around 2016, thinking it would just need some new rubber, a touch of bodywork and an overall service to iron out the wrinkles.

I do not want to tally the invoices I have, but I am guessing I'm close to $10K into the car now, and that is paying myself $0/hr to do all the work. Thinking back on the cars that were selling for $6-8K at the time, I wonder how big of a hole I dug for myself, that I could have avoided. (That said, I learned a tonne, and there is something to be said for doing the work yourself....)

Someone that knows even half of what I know now and really wants one of these things will know enough to pay a fair price for a well built and clearly carefully maintained specimen. I would if I weren't already starting the parts hoard for the next project car....

Edited by KZJonny
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Thanks guys. I’m going to replace the tires and battery, and put in some fresh fluids, then list it at a price and wait for the right buyer. I’m starting a new job in January so at least I will have more opportunity to drive it. 
 

I’m thinking Michelin PS4 A/S to replace my old summers, but haven’t stayed up on the latest tire offerings. Any other suggestions? I don’t need the best snow/ice performance (relatively speaking of course, for an A/S) but year-round dry/wet would be great. 

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2 hours ago, Underdog said:

Thanks guys. I’m going to replace the tires and battery, and put in some fresh fluids, then list it at a price and wait for the right buyer. I’m starting a new job in January so at least I will have more opportunity to drive it. 
 

I’m thinking Michelin PS4 A/S to replace my old summers, but haven’t stayed up on the latest tire offerings. Any other suggestions? I don’t need the best snow/ice performance (relatively speaking of course, for an A/S) but year-round dry/wet would be great. 

I have a set of PS4 A/S and they're great. I came from 10yr old Hankook Ventus V12s. The PS4s are definitely comparable. The only negative I really noticed between both tires were sidewall compliance, the PS4s felt much firmer. They are hard to find now due to popularity, I bought 4 originally and were delivered next day by Tire Rack in Aug 2021. I decided to buy a 5th as a spare earlier this year in May and they were delivered in October. 

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35 minutes ago, cheeseenlo said:

I have a set of PS4 A/S and they're great. I came from 10yr old Hankook Ventus V12s. The PS4s are definitely comparable. The only negative I really noticed between both tires were sidewall compliance, the PS4s felt much firmer. They are hard to find now due to popularity, I bought 4 originally and were delivered next day by Tire Rack in Aug 2021. I decided to buy a 5th as a spare earlier this year in May and they were delivered in October. 

Thanks! I’d be switching from the same tire and vintage, so that is helpful to have a direct comparison. 

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On 12/13/2022 at 9:00 AM, lagwagon said:

Jury is still out due to not a huge amount of driving but since doing the maf plug my trims are at A = 2.5-3.5, B = -13, C = -2.5, D = 0 (haven't had a chance to go WOT). So A looks much better, B looks much worse, and C is about the same. Oil needs to be changed in about 1000-km and I think it's time to do plugs (I've owned the car for about 30,000 km and haven't done them yet, but they have been checked and no issues found). Could be high vacuum in B range is pulling oil past valve seals (or rings possibly?) and due to my short drives the oil has a lot of gas in it (I mostly see B on decel). I do 4000 km oil changes due to the short trips and gas contamination in the oil but maybe I need to shorten it even more. 

Triple check you have done a good crimping job. Yesterday I was driving my car around and noticed all the closed loop long-term fuel trims were pegged to -15%. Long story short, one of the ground wires was not crimped very well I guess: as soon as I moved the ground cable around the crimped section, fuel correct gauge went to + 15% right away. so, yeah... Such a sensitive system.

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2 hours ago, amptramp said:

When my Legacy finally digested its Michelin All Seasons, I replaced them with General Altimax RT43 All Seasons.  This was a big improvement over the Michelins even when the Michelins were new.

Pilot sport 4 all seasons or something like primacy/more pedestrian? Specs for that general line don't really indicate they're in the same uhp all season class. The general equivalent is probably something more like the gmax as-05. 

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Euro console got delivered today! Missing the e-brake boot but still the best $200 I've spent on the wagon. Hopefully I can carve out some time between the holidays to get it installed. If anyone is looking for the USDM SpecB 6spd shifter trim let me know as I'll have my for sale in the near future. 

20221216_103531.jpg

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Blouch quoted $699 to service/inspect my 1.5XTR since it's a ball bearing turbo. That's half of what I paid for this back in 2019. Compared to the cost of the build itself, this isn't much but I think that's steep for what it's worth. 

From what the shop told me, they don't think a rebuild is necessary since the turbo did not run after the engine failure. I was there when they cranked the motor over a few times but it started. Compression was down from the two pistons with cracked crowns. Not sure there would be any chance oil was contaminated and from the cranking it pushed oil through the turbo. 

Do you think it's 100% necessary to have the turbo looked over by Blouch? I was thinking peace of mind check, but $700 to start is a lot of money for them to look at it. If they find anything wrong, the cost goes up further and it will be close to what I've paid brand new. 

Thoughts?

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cheese, If you don't have any bearing wear, that may have pushed metal around...I think you're good to go. Crack ringlands, don't put metal into the oil system...(?)  "m sprank" may be a good member to ask.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thinking the clutch slave needs to be replaced in my 6MT. Was a little sticky when we swapped the tranny and we purged a lot of crap out of it when we bled it. My shift are sometimes perfect sometimes a little notchy. That inconsistency makes me suspect the slave. The hose is new-ish - installed during the swap.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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1 hour ago, SubOperator said:

Thinking the clutch slave needs to be replaced in my 6MT. Was a little sticky when we swapped the tranny and we purged a lot of crap out of it when we bled it. My shift are sometimes perfect sometimes a little notchy. That inconsistency makes me suspect the slave. The hose is new-ish - installed during the swap.

@SubOperatorWhen I swapped to the 6MT, I removed the clutch delay valve (CDV) on the slave. It's pretty simple to do and can be easily reverted back. The delete in theory allows more predictable, repeatable engagements from the clutch. I can't tell you if this actually helped me or not. Based on my research before the install of my twin plate clutch, it was recommended. It's worth a shot before you actually replace the slave. 

https://www.wrxforums.com/threads/clutch-delay-valve-removal-diy-a-must-for-rough-to-engage-clutches.22744/

3 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

cheese, If you don't have any bearing wear, that may have pushed metal around...I think you're good to go. Crack ringlands, don't put metal into the oil system...(?)  "m sprank" may be a good member to ask.

Thanks @Max Capacity I went ahead and sent the turbo back to Blouch. The shop provided me the emotional support. I'm doing it for peace of mind and for $700 not to hurt the new IAG block. It's all part doing things right, once. 

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Wiped the whites down again. I don't mind cleaning them. The stock wheels don't have many surfaces, and at five spokes it's only a 10 minute process for all wheels. What I do mind is the staining. Granted I painted these with rustoleum and some way past sell date acrylic clear. The original goal was to get my 17x8 OZ leggera hlts professionally painted in gold. With Christmas and the economy, that's on hold. White stockers are here for the foreseeable future. But seeing as this Walmart paint doesn't resist hawk brake dust, I'm debating giving the wheels a shot of blue once temps warm up. It'll cost $20 and it'll be hilariously awesome. Maybe after that I'll do Red. And then gloss back even though painting your wheels black is the lamest car mod out there. 

20221217_143730.jpg

Nevermind the scraped edges. Tire guy was lazy when the white paint was less than a day old. 

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On 12/16/2022 at 3:11 PM, cheeseenlo said:

 

Thanks @Max Capacity I went ahead and sent the turbo back to Blouch. The shop provided me the emotional support. I'm doing it for peace of mind and for $700 not to hurt the new IAG block. It's all part doing things right, once. 

I would not have even thought about it. I would have sent it back also. You never know. and what's 700 when you're spending as much as you have lol. To me it's part of the game. 

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