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Posts
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KZJonny last won the day on March 18
KZJonny had the most liked content!
About KZJonny
- Birthday 05/03/1981
Personal Information
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Location
Ontario, Canada
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Car
'05 LGT MT Wagon / '05 Outback AT
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Interests
Motorcycles, carpentry etc....
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Occupation
Brewer
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KZJonny's Achievements
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Yes. That is the one. I chatted with the fellow at Spec on the phone, and given my use & mods, he suggested that either the Stage 1 or Stage 2+ would be appropriate. Something about the Stage 2 materials not being as friendly with a street driven car. Meant for higher heat/hard use or they do strange things... I don't expect that a JMP VF40/52 is exceeding 300 wtq, but I suppose that depends on the tune. The Excedy OE clutch +lightweight flywheel that came the car were not slipping under hard use with my current setup, but it was certainly wearing out faster than it ought to have been.
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So, you want to drive your 16 year old LGT to a meet eh?
KZJonny replied to KZJonny's topic in General Chat
Okay..... So heads can go out tomorrow for a skim. Only the one pictured above really needs it, but I figure I'd rather have them prepped for the best possible seal, and also that while the difference between the two would end up being *tiny*, I'd rather not have one side of the engine with a slightly difference compression ratio than the other. If this was an NA engine I would have just the one machined and send it.... However, it is not, and we all know how touchy these things are about tuning and details, so away they go. NOW. I am debating over weather or not to do valve seals while I've got the heads off... Who would/would not? They are cheap enough, and it's not a terrible job, but my feeling is also that they're not really known to fail much in these engines... Kind of the same as the rear main. It's a thing you can do, but also not really regarded as a weak point in these engines. I'm leaning towards just tidying up the head mating surfaces, ensuring all is super-duper clean and throwing it all back together ASAP. But if this would be a critical misstep, then I'm willing to listen to others. Valve seals can be done in the engine bay in future at worst case. -
Stock windage tray is almost certainly going to be fine for 'occassional spirited use'. They had a combination offer when I bought mine, so I just figured why not? If I was going to go to the trouble of taking off the oil pan and all the headache that goes along with it, might just as well be done with it all at once. I do think the IAG windage tray is a nice design and will work better than stock to keep oil from splashing up into the moving internal but whether or not that matters for someones individual use case.....?
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KZJonny started following Flywheel turning
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No problem at all. Just have it resurfaced at a machine shop so it will mate with the new clutch properly.
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To be clear, it’s part number: 11109AA151 It’s the standard pan for 06+ LGT as well. They just also use them on STIs… The drain is different/better than the ‘05 design and they are a little different internally. I have a Spectra pan on right now that is an aftermarket pattern replica of this. My old one was rusting out. It is honestly just fine. I’m only debating replacing it because I have the engine out and in pieces. 05s are apparently not prone to pick up failure as much as 06+ models, but still… ‘while I was in there….’ I might as well be broke for a while longer.
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Currently just a stock replacement. I’m debating going to the improved 06+/sti design instead of cleaning all the rtv off the current pan, but on the fence. Mine sees a little more ‘spirited use’ than a daily/kid hauler, but the aftermarket pans are track duty stuff in my mind. Too expensive for me.
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So, you want to drive your 16 year old LGT to a meet eh?
KZJonny replied to KZJonny's topic in General Chat
It gets better. So at least after doing all this work, I was right, and there was a little combustion leak/head gasket failure. Glad I decided to try and get this all done before the driving season, and the ECM in particular. No significant damage, but this head (both I guess) will now have to get pulled down and dropped off for a skim at the machine shop, which is okay. I was hoping to get away with just refinishing by hand and new gaskets, but at this point, I’m too far in to do anything in part measures. -
KZJonny started following Stage 2+ drivers, what clutch setup are you running? and OTB to Legacy suspension
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OTB to Legacy suspension
KZJonny replied to Michal Ko's topic in Third Generation Subaru Outback (2004 – 2009)
Spec B stuff is only maybe another 1/2” lower than stock Legacy. The Bilsteins are a much better ride than stock KYBs tho. You do, however need top hats to go with the front struts. Stock hats do not work. If it is a family hauling daily, it may not be worth the extra effort and cost. KYB GR-2s are much cheaper and designed to make up for old/tired springs. -
Hm. I found some at a local speed shop, for a reasonable price, but I’ll get some of those from MMC next time I place an order. Thanks very much. This might be worth posting up in the ‘parts numbers, etc….’ Thread. I couldn’t fins the data anywhere. Presumably, there used to be a part number, but I could not find it.
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That's what I came up with as well upon searching more. Bummer I'll have to get them shipped in from the US. Seems a little unlikely that as small as Canadia is, that there wouldn't be some way to replaced 'frikkin injector o-rings, which are 'single use...' Everything has to be the hard way huh? EDIT: $35 USD for International shipping. I think I am going to have to find some other way.
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I tore most of my engine apart. Therefore; asking the question here: Anybody have part number(s) for OE side feed injector o-rings? Not the seals between the rail and TGVs, but the actual top and bottom o-rings that go on the injectors themselves. I looked through the vacation pix, and didn't see anything. Parts guy at my local Subaru dealership also came up with a goose egg. Failing OE parts, then a trusted supplier, or maybe measurements of the original o-rings before they spent 20 years compressed into a snug fitting holder?
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I did the same for the OBW. Didn’t bother to follow the ‘over the tank’ route. Just used CuPro lines (Nicop? Whatever brand…) and followed the rear subframe across the car. Couple zip ties and p-clamps make sure nothing can move anywhere. Only took a couple hours…. I made sure to keep them off the ‘bottom’ of anything, so going over a curb or in a field they shouldn’t be able to get hit. Or, at least if they did, I went over something so gnarly that I’d probably have bigger problems by that point.