awfulwaffle

Got your PM. I'll have to update the spreadsheet again - went dark a while ago trying to finish grad school.

I'm in.

My car also suffered from a persistent MAF/fuel trim issues that were fixed by replacing the connector. Then I had to go to a big tube intake to get more MAF range which opened up a can of new issues. So, just finished retuning the car on speed density. Just saying, I have a working Merpmod map and defs for an 05 5mt GT if anyone wants to go fishing with dynamite to address MAF troubles. Bring your own IAT sensor. Boost by gear, flat foot shifting and blinking CEL for feedback knock also confirmed working.

How do you do, fellow nerds? Found my way back to this thread and, as a result, found that there are now a pair of high quality models of both a post-facelift wagon and sedan, and a pre-facelift wagon for sale online. https://free3d.com/3d-model/subaru-legacy-wagon-2003-2009-5349.html https://free3d.com/3d-model/subaru-legacy-station-wagon-2008-2637.html https://free3d.com/3d-model/subaru-legacy-2008-4153.html

Shoot I just sourced one locally...

Yup lol, mouth moves and everything. I took to turning it to face the wall because otherwise it stared into my soul. Has since been donated to a friend who really liked it hah

Anyone have anything they want to get rid of? Helping a friend with YNANSB and need a turbo to get him going on a budget. Thanks!

For sure, good luck. Let us know how it goes. I just realized, the defouler may be necessary these days. I keep forgetting about the Cobb Green Speed stuff - that rear O2 comp table is probably no longer available if you're tuning via Cobb.

Even if the rear O2 is entirely absent, the car should be targeting around a 13.8 AFR assuming the baseline target is 14.7ish in the tables. That'll drop your mileage to 18-20 in my experience. That said, any tuner worth their salt should be able to shut off the rear O2 compensation in your car because those tables have been known for a long time. You shouldn't even need the de-fouler, or even the rear O2 sensor to be plugged in, and still hit the proper 14.7 target and get decent gas mileage. If you have no air leaks, I'd still be taking a look at those fuel trims. That will help us see if there's something wrong in the closed loop fueling calculations.

That's actually a bit lean. No way Shinji is targeting that, unless he was trying to make you a pretty extreme economy map. Next thing I'd look at is AF Learning 1, and AF Correction 1. With a steady 15.5 AFR at cruise, I'd expect these to be high positive. AF Learning 1 maxes out at 15%, and Correction at 25%. If these are pegged or close to it, your car has a large air leak and is dumping fuel to compensate. A 15.5 AFR means it's run out of room to adjust and still can't hit target, which should be in the 14.2-14.7 range. That, or one of the sensors (front O2 or MAF) responsible for closed loop fueling has gone bad. Hopefully that's all it is, because it's a simple fix.

Yeah that's not right. How does your cruise AFR look? Driving steady, not accelerating.

What's your driving style like, to start? 14.5-15.5 MPG may be reasonable if you're ripping around everywhere, not so much if you're just cruising down the freeway at 70-80 mph and that's what you're averaging.

Something is wrong if you're getting that kind of gas mileage with this setup imo, unless it's all start stop with pretty much no cruising . Hopefully just the base map. What's your AFR at when just driving steady?

These vac values had me worried until I remembered you're running aftermarket cams.

or forum issue sunglasses

Did this because my ACT organic clutch disc wasn't holding torque after I upgraded turbo, and in process realized I've been running a pull style flywheel for the last 3-4 years. Got the flywheel from a friend back when I didn't know much, and just assumed 5MT flywheels were all the same. Pull style flywheel is flat whereas push style is stepped. Essentially, the clutch never fully disengaged. Amazing it never slipped till now, though torque was much lower until recently. Got the right flywheel, paired this disc with the ACT heavy duty pressure plate I already own instead of the extreme duty one it usually comes kitted with, and it barely chatters after break-in. Holds great! Seems to be a good 400 who option in between the extreme duty organic and cerametallic 6 puck offerings ACT sells as a kit.

Ah, that patch. Never tried running in CAN mode since my adapter runs very fast in K-Line, so I wouldn't know. Maybe someone else does, if you do decide to go that route.

No, the ECU does not report oil pressure because the factory setup only has a low pressure switch. This switch is set at a very low pressure (somewhere below 10 psi), so most consider it useless. You can buy an adapter and install a proper oil pressure sender in place of the OEM switch. However, unless you're willing to disable either the rear O2 sensor or the tumble generator valves in order to use their connectors for signal input, there's no easy way to read that sensor via the ECU. A gauge is the way to go in that instance, I think.

Yep. If the slave is shot you'll eventually (or right away) have issues getting the car in gear because foot-to-floor won't push the clutch fork far enough. Good thing is an Exedy replacement is like 20 bucks on Rock Auto.

How do you mean? Installing it by yourself is just a matter of bolting it on in my experience. Unless you mean bleeding, in which case you'll need another pair of hands, or a vacuum bleed setup or an appropriately sized speed bleeder. For future reference, the slave cylinder will compress (slowly) by hand so you can just push the rod back and out of the way of the fork, or pop the rod out completely since it's a separate piece from the piston.

Not sure what patch you're referring to, but all you should have to do is pick up a compatible adapter and download the app to an Android device. Unfortunately the only Bluetooth adapter available these days is pretty slow, sampling at something like 2 Hz. It's plenty for general monitoring but is a bit too clunky if you get into trying to diagnose anything transient. The only other trick is digging out memory addresses for data that isn't automatically available with the barebones BtSSM install. You can find these addresses in Romraider logger definitions for your car. Post up here, those of us using BtSSM can help guide you through most issues. https://romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1642&sid=f76b869f3a11a0d1e3df920b6e7075b3

Purdy wagon is purdy. Utmost respect to those of you who put in the effort to make these more than ten foot cars.

I think you'd be pretty close in terms of caliper clearance but it may work. You'd also have to drill the rotors for 5X100 wouldn't you? Unless they make a 340mm rotor for the 04 STI?

Thanks! I'll add some info to those threads after grabbing some close-up photos.

Yep, 245/40/17. Blown away by the wet traction in particular, compared to the other summers I've run.