What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[lagwagon]

3 hours ago, GearJamr said:

Betting you are in Alberta?

Yep. Calgary

[amptramp]

Once you clean the battery terminals (or disconnect the battery for any reason) the ECU goes into a learning mode where the hot idle starts at 500 RPM and gradually rises over a week if it is used as a daily driver.  It can stall during this time and I consider it dangerous - I don't know why they did it like that.  Learning modes should be banned.  Throttle response should be one of life's certainties.

[NORULZleggy]

I want a redtop, but my battery it new . I will get one in a few years.

[ohno06gt]

So damn frustrated with this car.   Replaced the ball joint a few days ago and everything was good.  This afternoon it started creaking when turning at low speeds and over bumps.  

Jacked up the car to double check torque specs and everything was good.   Just scratching my head now wondering what the hell is going on. 

[Febreze Mee]

16 minutes ago, ohno06gt said:

So damn frustrated with this car.   Replaced the ball joint a few days ago and everything was good.  This afternoon it started creaking when turning at low speeds and over bumps.  

Jacked up the car to double check torque specs and everything was good.   Just scratching my head now wondering what the hell is going on. 

Springs/struts? FSB bushings?Dry end links?

[ohno06gt]

18 minutes ago, Febreze Mee said:

Springs/struts? FSB bushings?Dry end links?

Did koni's/h&r springs back in September everything was good with them, fresh top hats as well.  Fsb bushings look ok from what I can tell, still greased up. The end links did seem a little tough to move, they have fittings so I'll borrow a grease gun and give that a shot.

I'm hoping I didn't mess up the knuckle somehow when I was wrestling the ball joint out.  It put up quite the fight but visually the knuckle looks fine from the outside.

[BoozeRS05]

3 hours ago, amptramp said:

Once you clean the battery terminals (or disconnect the battery for any reason) the ECU goes into a learning mode where the hot idle starts at 500 RPM and gradually rises over a week if it is used as a daily driver.  It can stall during this time and I consider it dangerous - I don't know why they did it like that.  Learning modes should be banned.  Throttle response should be one of life's certainties.

When the battery is replaced/map changes you’ll want to turn the key to ‘on’ to prime the motor before cranking (let the dash complete the sweep) and then let it idle for 5-10 min. Won’t have the stalling or hesitation issues that you’re describing if you let it relearn idle first. 

[Febreze Mee]

39 minutes ago, ohno06gt said:

Did koni's/h&r springs back in September everything was good with them, fresh top hats as well.  Fsb bushings look ok from what I can tell, still greased up. The end links did seem a little tough to move, they have fittings so I'll borrow a grease gun and give that a shot.

I'm hoping I didn't mess up the knuckle somehow when I was wrestling the ball joint out.  It put up quite the fight but visually the knuckle looks fine from the outside.

Hmm...def start there. If the knuckle looks fine, it's more than likely fine. The only other things I could things of would be inner tie rods, and if you have a strut tower bar —making sure it's tight at the top hats and at the adjustment points as the bar can run really tight against firewall pinch weld. Let us know what changes after you grease the end links. 

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

How’s it ride with minis and H&Rs? That’s frustrating to hear creaks with new stuff installed. A friend bought a Q5 and replaced the entire front end to chase down a creak. Turned out to be loose subframe bolts (all of them). Hopefully you can figure out what’s going on…

Edited December 2, 2022 by SoobyDoobyDoo

[BoozeRS05]

Grabbed a Perrin TMIC on FB for cheap the other day, cleaned it up real good and wrapped it with heat tape. Installed that today and saw nearly full boost for the first time in awhile. Although it was tough getting it to fit, definitely too tight at the turbo flange and maybe cross threaded one of those bolts. Cut up another engine cover I had to fit nicely, just need to weather strip it.

[Febreze Mee]

When rebuilding my steering rack, I attempted to order the rubber dust seal cap that goes atop the oil control valve assembly. However, it was on back order throughout the country. In between the first and second rebuild, I went back to the dealer and was able to order the only four in country. I will be holding onto two. I just wanted to get it out in the aether that I have two others I'm willing to part with in case anyone has trouble acquiring these parts down the line. 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Febreze Mee

[JF1GG29]

Power steering whine manifested the last couple of days. Going to swap out o-ring and hoses on the pump and hope that does the job.

Ran over a deer carcass a few weeks ago and the gasket between the dp and resonator pipe disintegrated (?). Ordered new gaskets and fasteners -- shop wanted to replace the exhaust from headers to the resonator pipe.

Also ordered new rear strut mounts and spring cushion to try and solve a saggy butt issue and a tiny bit of driver side tire rub.

[lagwagon]

On 11/30/2022 at 2:09 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

I see. For me, the idle trim gradually went way negative (including the other fuel trims too) and the car was responding like crap. Then I had to twist the connection a certain way and it became better but then problem happened again. Got sick of it and replaced the connector. All good now.

For you, if the fuel trim remains quite stable, then I'd doubt that is it. All I know is this MAF sensor is very sensitive!

After playing around with the battery cables my B and C trims have done exactly what you described. I think my negative battery cable needs to be replaced - I peeled back the insulation a bit and the cable is very corroded. We'll see once the maf connector gets here (supposed to be Thursday).

[xt2005bonbon]

In my post, I was referring to twisting the MAF wires though, not the battery cables. I believe the culprit was the ground wire of the MAF connector. In any case, the MAF plug/pig tails connector is a fairly cheap thing to swap and should help in the long run of troubleshooting MAF issues.

[lagwagon]

3 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

In my post, I was referring to twisting the MAF wires though, not the battery cables. I believe the culprit was the ground wire of the MAF connector. In any case, the MAF plug/pig tails connector is a fairly cheap thing to swap and should help in the long run of troubleshooting MAF issues.

I know, but if I was not getting a good ground from the battery that could be why the maf connector issue wasn't showing up the same way yours was (multiple grounding issues possibly). Now that I think I have a decent connection at the battery, the maf seems to be doing the same as yours, although I haven't checked that connection explicitly in the last week. So basically, I think there was a poor voltage supply, as well as possibly poor connection at the sensor.

[xt2005bonbon]

OK. Hopefully you will be free of MAF troubles.

[Gex]

On 12/2/2022 at 3:04 PM, BoozeRS05 said:

Grabbed a Perrin TMIC on FB for cheap the other day, cleaned it up real good and wrapped it with heat tape. Installed that today and saw nearly full boost for the first time in awhile. Although it was tough getting it to fit, definitely too tight at the turbo flange and maybe cross threaded one of those bolts. Cut up another engine cover I had to fit nicely, just need to weather strip it.

For the turbo side.  Thank me later.

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O

 

[BoozeRS05]

Yeah I grabbed one of those beforehand. It sealed up very nicely, but it was tough as hell getting the bolts lined up.

I also tried to find head studs that fit on the turbo flange so I could drop the TMIC down and not have to worry about stripping or cross threading anything, but gave up looking too quickly. I’ve seen Max comment on removing a couple UP bolts, which allows the turbo some flexibility, but didn’t try that either.

[xt2005bonbon]

On 10/26/2022 at 5:21 PM, rhino6303 said:

I did see it but never sent a uoa. I didn't have a kit or place to store a small sample. I'll send one once I get it put together and flushed a few times.

Rhino, what's the update with your engine?

[Febreze Mee]

10 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Rhino, what's the update with your engine?

Also curious.

 

Got the goods

[NORULZleggy]

10 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Also curious.

 

Got the goods

These filters are legit! I have a bunch of them.

[pksystems]

Got my hacked Perrin TMIC in the mail.  Anyone know what turbo this was hacked to fit?  Before I de-mod it, maybe it's setup can be used on my other subaru swapped project car.  Either way $100US plus shipping including an oem bov seems cheap to me.   

[snow05gtRI]

2 hours ago, pksystems said:

Got my hacked Perrin TMIC in the mail.  Anyone know what turbo this was hacked to fit?  Before I de-mod it, maybe it's setup can be used on my other subaru swapped project car.  Either way $100US plus shipping including an oem bov seems cheap to me.   

Maybe STI style?  with the outlet 90deg off ours?  looks like it would have been rotated, a bit, though.

[Infosecdad]

That looks like a custom rotated setup to me.

[KZJonny]

4 hours ago, pksystems said:

Got my hacked Perrin TMIC in the mail.  Anyone know what turbo this was hacked to fit?  Before I de-mod it, maybe it's setup can be used on my other subaru swapped project car.  Either way $100US plus shipping including an oem bov seems cheap to me.   

Don’t mean to be cheeky, but is the Perrin unit considered so much better than say, the Grimmspeed one, that the same price for a used/hacked one is a deal over brand new in box +splitter, new hoses, etc…