kzr750r1

Need to check if you have a head gasket leak. There is a test kit that will tell you if your coolant has combustion gasses in it. It's a bit of HW that holds the test fluid. Test fluid will change colors if the exhaust gas is creeping into your coolant. If it changes it's time for head gasket service and likely decking the heads.

Had a weird happenstance Saturday. Was at the Berkeley UC campus with my daughter. While moving the car to another parking spot the PS pump locked up. By the time I could pull over in the next 50' the vbelt was smoking! Come to find a stray bolt I had not placed back on the cover bracket worked its way behind the pump pulley. It lodge itself between the pulley and the housing. Locking up the SP. Took a few min to sort out what I could do. Didn't have the tools 3mm allen to pull the cover. But I was able to remove the snorkus and get my paws in there. Pulley was not budging without some pressure. Finally took the lug wrench out of the trunk and used it to force the bolt loose with a couple of palm whacks. Fished out the bolt with the spare screwdriver and yakama allen tool. Two lessons learned. 1) get some more tools in the car for emergency. 2) dont assume the HW is MIA until confirmed MIA. Work performed needing to take it off was weeks ago. Never figured it would have been there still. Had already replaced it with another unit. Happy this happened to me and not my daughter.

06 OBXT 18x8 +48 Rota Gravel 245/45/18 Michelin Pilot Sport A\S 4 Stock Height - Zero rub. If I had a 18x8 +45 could possibly stuff a wee bit more rubber under it.

Needs that coolant reference. Should look at Throttle Body calibration. Pretty much letting the ECU get itself settled. Sounds like your chipping away at it.

Sorry you have to open up the third level of hell to change the sensor. For good measure you should change the other cam sensor and crank sensor. Coil packs are a good measure as well. But you can make that decision later to see if the other sensor changes help. Finding leaks is good to find early. My first turbo change was a mess. In clocking the turbo (BNG 16G) after install popped the drain hose out of position. Didn't notice until there was a lake of T6 on my driveway.

Great news! Take it easy on the breakin and buy your oil and filters in bulk.

Ok now on the same page. You have to turn in a bunch more till all the marks will line up again because of the uneven number of teeth. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCGTdaffoiA&t=291s

As I recall it's the same part for the cam sensors. Can't remember right now if I replaced mine on the last rebuild. Have had them go bad or pop up a fault. Since you have an access port will clearing the codes return with the same again? When the cam sensor went out on mine the ex wife and kids were on their way back from san diego. I had to talk her thru plugging in the access port and clear codes. Ran fine after and two new cam sensors ordered before they arrived. I may have some old spares in stock will look this weekend. You mention timing it several times? I'm puzzled by this as it's not like we have a distributor to adjust.

While replacing 4qt of ATF, Trans filter and four of the six hoses the Tans shop buchard with worm gear clamps found another mistake they made. Aside from the WIX filter for the ATF loop. I'm seeing a paper gasket for the trans pan where I don't see one mentioned in the manuals. We have some seepage happening. Only Three Bond 1217B mentioned. In addition there are three holes that must be filled. These are inline with the bolt holes. So I can only guess the shop used an aftermarket gasket kit. Clearly right stuff used to stuff the trans to the diff. Huge amount of squeeze out on the outside. Likely the same on the inside. So... getting time of the 1217B from the stealership soon and some more ATF to drop this pan and stick this puppy back on by the book. Also have an alternate fuel regulator setup installed. Seems to have made a difference. A bit smoother but time will tell.

Yes. All depends. Some may be using a red putty like material. Or tef tape. I've been using version 1211 lately, read into it a bit more at one point. Chemical: IE Fuel resistance is a plus. Of course I want the oil to stay in as well. This last ZRX and EJ rebuild had me going down the rabbit hole for added protection. In rare occasions gravity fed carb systems can fail on the bike and fill a crankcase with gas. Had it on hand while rebuilding the EJ a year or so ago now. No leaking on either. Nice part is it's thinner and has a longer tack time. Thin, brush it on. Keep it clean and fabam. Nice seal and little blowout extra silicon running thru your AVCS hosing your operation internally.

The unit I picked up from Torque Solutions has Teflon Tape on it already. But three bond would work too. Just be sure to clean the threads regardless of what you use.

Take your time. Prep the tensioner vertically as described in the manual/instructions. Slowly. Last round I did it twice. Was pretty sure one pulley jumped a tooth. In the end all good.

Take a look at the hard crossover line from the head to the PCV system. I've had that lined with schmoo from not driving long enough distances. Remember oil accumulates moisture as it cools. Needs 20 or more min of run time to evaporate. Just put a see through case cover on the ZRX and reminded about this every time I'm starting it up. Oil looks like a milkshake till it runs for a long time.

Be careful trying to flip the stock claps over. I tried last time and ended up putting them back together how they come stock... Essentially upside down when the manifold is installed. No matter what I was doing the extended threads would bump into something or another, not optimal. Even after cutting down the screw.

Should have some residual from the initial install of pistons and what not. What crossover are you talking about? One on the top is coolant. My guess is the tie to the Oil cooler you're referring to?

Well finally getting back to this. Found just the inner fin that was cracked off where I had stored the old GS splitter. Probably ditched the rest thinking it would be easy to get a new unit form GS if I ever placed it back in service. Well called GS and Nope! They will not sell me one. So out of curiosity wondering if you have one last unit available to install/try/modify.

Yeah I had mine off as well. Hit the main connector terminal to just reflow the solder. Still no luck and lost one of the rubber mushrooms. In the meantime ordered another cubby from fleabay to see if it would make a difference. NOPE! I can slap it back into reading by hitting the dash just above cubby. Not hard... But hard enough at one point I guess cracked my old bezel. Water under the bridge at this point since the new fleabay unit is in really good shape. Time to inspect the wires. Need to tear into it any way at some point to replace all the air actuators.

Was going to take some sunset shots yesterday evening. My plans changed with the weather and road closures. Tumble weeds were blowing all over the canyon and started raining heavy just before sunset. So I just hung out at a friends and enjoyed the evening. More soon.

Alignment check up tomorrow afternoon. Going to test some more for rub tonight and confirm no spacers needed. Lock to lock no issue only seen some possible rub under compression on the rear inner fender that I may live with for now. It's tight! But looks like this combo will worK as I've hoped.

18x8 +48 Rota Gravel Hyper Black No spacers yet. Stock height. 245 45 R18 Michelin Pilot Sport A\S 4

Castings are salvageable it seems. But new seats, valves guides and seals with a clea decking they will run for another 200K. Heat. Funky tune... Get your injectors checked out. #4 cooling mod should help the next build.

You'll have to talk to Cryo over the phone and see if he can go OS, believe it was an option a long time ago... All depends on what state your in and intended configuration AP delete may be an issue, dunno, they will. These guys have been getting pinched pretty hard. Call. Talk to them about your goals and options. Was really happy with our interaction.

So the air pump codes were bypassed for a delete or bad pump? Of course Cobb Stg2 is now going to enable all monitors. That's how there complying at minimum with EPA. If you don't have a tuner around get ahold Cryotune. Just get your car in good shape before hand... He'll send you a basemap for your setup and fueling. Do the revisions and fabam...

So much faster to pull the motor and rip the heads off than working hunched over the fender. So much of the motor can be put back together outside of the car it's kinda funny. You'll get better at it. I always wondered why there was no talk of adjusting valve gaps. Figured it out we blow them up before needing a rebuild. Get the head studs, seriously. For a street car there is no need for the big ones... The torque procedure is soooo much better. Mine are on their second build. No stretch.... Heads are B or D? Either way will work. Just curious. For real get a custom tune. Just kinda bummed Cobb has gone this green route and we can't delete monitors any more. Work with a reputable Subaru shop that knows the HW. My first rebuild made so many mistakes. Mostly trusting the wrong people. Have been really happy with this last rebuild. M45 rebuilt the short block, Wiseco 100mm pistons, new crank and they donated some rods. This is the last bore on this block. Heads +1 valves, had the new valve guides in hand already from Infamous Performance. Had to buy new castings during the first rebuild, since one shop hosed my original heads. Had him add the valve guides for just in case in the future. So glad I did. Mike from Infamous hooked me up. Bummed he had to get out of Cali. But we understand.

Ahh. I didn't read into it that far. My bad. So we are talking about a EJ257.