What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[seanyb505]

I'm sure you've done it correctly but just making sure, you used the correct part number for the correct side and the parts guy gave you the right one? 

Second thought, can youmeasure the diameter of the raxle where it seats on the seal? I wonder if it's different than the oem, if even by a small amount. 

Edited October 28, 2022 by seanyb505

[NORULZleggy]

5 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I am having a weird issue: I swapped my front axles with some raxles last March (158K). Then, the driver side axle seal failed a couple of weeks later. No big deal, I changed it making sure I put the correct seal. Now, almost 6 months later (165k), it failed again. Very strange.

I live by Raxles, and never had a problem with them. I assume your using the OEM seals? I had this problem with my car also after the rebuild, the shop said something was going on and the resealed and I have not had a problem.

[Infosecdad]

36 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I am having a weird issue: I swapped my front axles with some raxles last March (158K). Then, the driver side axle seal failed a couple of weeks later. No big deal, I changed it making sure I put the correct seal. Now, almost 6 months later (165k), it failed again. Very strange.

I had the passenger side seal leak two weeks after my raxle install, but I suspect I should have replaced the old seals when I did it the first time. As for a follow up leak, it might be a fluke, or it might be the wrong side which I think will work for a bit until it wears down.

[xt2005bonbon]

According to my notes, I installed part number 806735290 (OEM). And yeah, I am aware that the driver and passenger side seals are different. You can see it on the inner lip of the seals. When I'll remove it, I'll recheck again though.

I will measure the raxle diameter.

Edited October 28, 2022 by xt2005bonbon

[Max Capacity]

4 hours ago, Scottydunno said:

As weird as this sounds..

Come to find out, my rear backing plates are returning to earth via natural selection.. joy! Are these available at all??? 

I believe it's just the dust shield, not the backing plate its self.  You don't really need that piece of the puzzle.

[apexi]

7 hours ago, Scottydunno said:

Come to find out, my rear backing plates are returning to earth via natural selection.. joy! Are these available at all??? 

Yes, but they're stupid expensive for what they are ($120 each msrp, $100 each shipped on ebay, a little cheaper at some online dealers )

right rear https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Brake-Splash-Guard-Back-Plate-Brake-Right--Rear/49236076/26704AE040.html

left rear https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Brake-Splash-Guard-Back-Plate-Brake-Left--Rear/49236077/26704AE050.html

[xt2005bonbon]

Pick n pull?

[whitexc]

Don't the backing plates house the parking brake shoes and hardware?

[whitexc]

Pulled, cleaned and rebooted both front axles. Really not a bad job that i was dreading. Have to verify diff oil in the morning as I lost a smidgen when the axles came out. 

Installed replacement passenger front caliper while I was in there (Powerstop warranty work....yay). Driver side was 2 weeks ago.

Next up....rear hubs. Tips from the pros or at least those that have fought that fight? 

[amptramp]

5 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

I believe it's just the dust shield, not the backing plate its self.  You don't really need that piece of the puzzle.

A friend of mine who is a consultant in automotive marketing told me you may be in luck for a backing plate.  The dust shield you would have to pay for but the backing plates are covered by a government-imposed permanent secret warranty across all makes and models and years.  If you have a backing plate that has rusted out in your 1924 Model T, you can go to Ford and get one for free.  This applies to all cars.

I seriously wonder why brakes need dust shields.  Disc brakes fling water off by centrifugal force.  The only thing I see the shields doing is adding unsprung weight.

[KZJonny]

2 hours ago, whitexc said:

Next up....rear hubs. Tips from the pros or at least those that have fought that fight? 

I didn’t find that job especially bad, and I am in the rust belt… 

I hit everything with penetrant a couple days in advance, and let it do it’s thing.

When it came to actually knocking them out, after removing all the parking brake garbage, I backed out the hub retainer bolts about halfway, got more penetrant in where the hub seats in the knuckle, and hammered on the bolts from the backside. Usual process, going around in a circle. Did the trick for me. Cleaned everything up with some emery cloth, and used the bolts to pull the new hub into it’s seat.

Now, if the CV axle doesn’t want to come free of the hub, that’s a different kind if fight.

[Max Capacity]

Penetrating fluid on the axle splices should help.  Anti-seize on the splines going together will help next time.

[BoozeRS05]

23 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I am having a weird issue: I swapped my front axles with some raxles last March (158K). Then, the driver side axle seal failed a couple of weeks later. No big deal, I changed it making sure I put the correct seal. Now, almost 6 months later (165k), it failed again. Very strange.

My front right axle seal has been leaking for quite a while, 2-3 OEM seals since I had to first replace the axle. I read when removing them, it’s very easy to knick the seal surface and it can lead to persistent issues. A scratch free rubbing pad on the inside lip, try and work the surface clean, should help.

[Max Capacity]

23 hours ago, whitexc said:

Pulled, cleaned and rebooted both front axles. Really not a bad job that i was dreading. Have to verify diff oil in the morning as I lost a smidgen when the axles came out. 

Installed replacement passenger front caliper while I was in there (Powerstop warranty work....yay). Driver side was 2 weeks ago.

Next up....rear hubs. Tips from the pros or at least those that have fought that fight? 

I assume you've read this ?

https://www.legacygt.com/topic/91145-diy-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-walk-through-wpdf/page/4/#comment-2711804

 

[pksystems]

Noticed I was missing upper turbo heat shield bracket, so I made one.  

I didn't have a turbo heat shield when I got the car, so I grabbed one off a Forester at PNP, and modded it to fit my downpipe.

I'll powdercoat them both with high temp muffler black powder.

Edited October 30, 2022 by pksystems

[whitexc]

Rear bearings yesterday. I'm bad with pics. Drivers side was cake. Out and back in way less than an hour. Passenger side was it's own story lol. From the back of the hub, top left bolt head rounded. Drilled it out from outside and got a 12pt socket on it to back it out. The axle splines chose not to play nice either so out came the air hammer. Lots of persuasion, some heat, another beer and it finally came out. Shout out to my friend Kroil for the lube job. Cleaned, lubed and adjusted the parking brake bits.  Works great. The car rolls nicely again. 

I should really do something about that turbo heat shield stuff. That or a blanket. I keep saying I need to. Winter wheels soon.  

[lagwagon]

Swapped the winter tires on and installed the Rally Armor mud flaps that were on the 2007, onto the 2005. Not a big fan of the mud flaps on a blue car but it should protect the paint a fair amount.

[Scottydunno]

On 10/28/2022 at 9:29 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

^ Scotty, what have you been driving?

A 2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe! 2.2L ecotec, 5mt! Crank windows and all! No options except for rear defrost and power trunk release. It's hard to argue with 30+ mpg on 87 octane!

[Scottydunno]

On 10/28/2022 at 3:04 PM, apexi said:

Yes, but they're stupid expensive for what they are ($120 each msrp, $100 each shipped on ebay, a little cheaper at some online dealers )

right rear https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Brake-Splash-Guard-Back-Plate-Brake-Right--Rear/49236076/26704AE040.html

left rear https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Brake-Splash-Guard-Back-Plate-Brake-Left--Rear/49236077/26704AE050.html

I honestly didn't think to check ebay... I figured it would be a dealer only part! Thanx!

[effnakedteeth]

Picked up a full set of coolant hoses, head gaskets, valve stem seals from a local shop. Dropped the valve stem seals and my heads off at a machine shop. Probably going to wait for Thanksgiving sales now for other parts needed to get get the engine back in.

[pksystems]

Powder coated some parts.  I have tonnes of white so I might as well use it on parts that can't be seen.  The black is hight temp muffler black rated to 1200F

Tested out a new color.  Single stage Eastwood chrome with EW translucent red over it.  I want the brembos to have an anodized red looking finish.  This is a bit splotchy and darker then I wanted.  I hot flocked it, which I think caused some of the issues.  I will play with it on other random brackets.

Edited November 1, 2022 by pksystems

[cheeseenlo]

The correct neutral sensor switch (NSS) swapped out. The key to getting enough space to get to the sensor is unbolting the driveshaft. It allows the trans to pivot / tilt just enough to get your arm through with a 19mm wrench. Test the switch out by rowing through the gears and watching your AP monitoring Gear Position. Neutral should be 0. In gear is 6 when the car is not moving. I tested this with the car still on jack stands.

The part number for the NSS is 32008AA181. This is the correct length so you don't have to extend / splice your existing 5MT NSS (LGT 07+ only). For the 05-06 years, you'll need to extend your existing NSS since the STI transmission switch is on top vs side (5MT). This part was on backorder from Subaru so I had to call a few shops to see if they had one available. Luckily, Rallispec had one so I didn't have to find one from a junkyard. 

Here's a great write up from iWire about the NSS changes between model years - https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/neutral-position-switch-and-your-subaru-transmission-swap

[GearJamr]

I'm assuming this wouldn't be a problem with a spec.b trans?

[cheeseenlo]

20 hours ago, GearJamr said:

I'm assuming this wouldn't be a problem with a spec.b trans?

My swap was with a SpecB/S402 transmission. However, this wouldn't have been a problem if the previous owner's vehicle was an 07+ LGT. If your swapping a SpecB trans into a 05/06 LGT you'll still need to swap the NSS and splice/extend it to reach the plug.

After a successful test drive, I'm just kicking myself for not doing enough research. All of this could've been avoided so hopefully this info can help others. 

[BoozeRS05]

2k miles to go!