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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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10 hours ago, pksystems said:

Grabbed some small bits and pieces from junk yard.

Got these new bits from FB marketplace. Billet pitch stop, 5eat hard insert and turbo blanket.

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Dude.

What is UP with marketplace in Calgary? Jeeeez. It's like every time you'd want a thing, you seem to have found it used! 

Lucky man! Enjoy the greatly reduced driveline movement. I wasn't convinced the pitch stop would make much of a difference when I changed mine, and went to a group-N (manual) trans mount. I was wrong.

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Pulled the 5eat mount.  There isn't enough lube on earth to get that insert in there tho. Maybe the mount has compressed alot with age?

 

I made a 4th mount point for the rear diff in my DSM years ago with some 90A hardness 2part urethane.  It properly cured when I tested it out a couple weeks ago, so I might as well use it.

 

Cleaned the mount and sealed the backside with duct tape.  Filled it up.  After curing overnight, it's definitely more flexible then the blue insert, but it should firm up a bit more when it's fully cured in 24 hours.  

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Edited by pksystems
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Got the oil changed on the LGT to Amsoil 5w-40 Euro midsap  that was sitting on the shelf. I had Amsoil 5w-30 SS Amsoil was out of the filters I want STILL 🙄 So I used the Tokyo Roki filter, and it is very nice and well made from what I can tell. the fitment is spot on. the GT is ready for the last revision on the dyno this Monday, with the 3 inch form DP back. (Still not sure how I forgot that when putting the car together)

Chaged the oil on the NA legacy with Amsoil OE cause the FB25 loves to eat it some lol.

Changed the the daily Taurus also. The cars are all ready for winter.

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Took the car for a spirited drive down a very familiar road today.   The koni/h&r combo performed beautifully.  Inputs seem so much more direct and it takes harsh bumps easier than the 148k mile oem suspension.  So glad I didn't go with cheapo coilovers.  Body roll, squat and dive is greatly reduced.  

All are set at 1 full turn from soft but will be analyzing the ride and dialing in over the next few days. 

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Pulled the timing belt.  Tried to remove the drivers side cams so I could check if the screen has been removed from the oil feed line on that side of engine.  One of the previous owners had removed the turbo feed screen.

Top cam came off with no issues.  Lower one is never coming off this car. 😜

Pried the top of the rear timing cover and was able to get to the banjo bolt.  Pretty dirty.  I'm glad I removed it.

Ordered some more hoses after the PCV hose snapped upon removal.

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Edited by pksystems
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A buddy and I installed a 3M clear bra kit on the Spec B today. I took a few pictures...but you can't see the bra on the car, so I didn't keep the pictures. Took us 3 1/2 hours to install the hood and bumper kit. We did do the mirrors and fender pieces too. I ordered the Pro style kit.

Here's the kit I ordered, https://www.invisiblemask.com/imask/index.php?route=product/category&path=20805

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hi. Today I've renovate my headlights, which were very slightly scratched and cloudy. 

And on last few days I have completed my configuration with some STI parts:

Already equiped with springs, rear and front wing, and front strut bar, I was lucky to find à S402 rear strut bar... 

Recently add a Kobemotorsports radiator too... 

2007 3.0R Spec B 5BVA 

1 85.000KM... 

Still in love with this car... 

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Edited by CEVENN
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Tail of the Dragon, 8/20/22

I got a Blackstone UOA back saying I have an imminent bearing failure and blown head gaskets so I've been making proper plans. Sadly, I don't have the time to join the DIY #YNANSB club so I've been reaching out to a few of the reputable tuner/engine builders in the Northeast. I've reached out to at least three so far and, while they are happy to discuss and explain options, it's been difficult to get them to deliver an actual quote - I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong here. I indicated I would be purchasing all parts and labor through their shop.

What has other people's experiences been? These are all shops that have been in existence over 10+years with good reputations. I'm going to give it some time before I reach out again, but I'm also cautious about twisting a business's arm to take my money. I've learned that lesson from the real estate world.

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I stripped the accessories off my 2007 (rally armor mud flaps, roof rack cross bars, summer wheels, weathertech floor mats etc.) since some moron decided to make a right turn from the left lane and ran over the front of the car. I'm guessing it'll be a write-off. Here are the easy to identify parts that are broken:

left fender

left fender liner

left headlight (my beloved TSX-R HID conversions)

bumper beam

bumper cover

grill

Parts that are likely broken or need to be replaced:

trans oil filter

trans filter lines

rad support

battery

washer fluid fill tube

possibly hood (fender is pushed under it so can't really tell, or open it even)

possibly timing covers or other engine damage (frame is pushed right probably 6-8").

Edited by lagwagon
correcting autocorrect
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40 minutes ago, Enlight said:

totd.thumb.jpg.30650671e8bfc8270795c2f0117bca15.jpg

Tail of the Dragon, 8/20/22

I got a Blackstone UOA back saying I have an imminent bearing failure and blown head gaskets so I've been making proper plans. Sadly, I don't have the time to join the DIY #YNANSB club so I've been reaching out to a few of the reputable tuner/engine builders in the Northeast. I've reached out to at least three so far and, while they are happy to discuss and explain options, it's been difficult to get them to deliver an actual quote - I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong here. I indicated I would be purchasing all parts and labor through their shop.

What has other people's experiences been? These are all shops that have been in existence over 10+years with good reputations. I'm going to give it some time before I reach out again, but I'm also cautious about twisting a business's arm to take my money. I've learned that lesson from the real estate world.

I know it may not be convent to you, but Richard Plumb owns Colonial Tire & Brake Center in Somersville CT on Rt190 860 749-7988 he has been my trusted mechanic for some 40 years. Eastwoods Auto Machine shop is also the best shop in the area for these engines. Mark Eastwood and Rich work together, their shops are 1/4 apart. http://eastwoodsautomachine.com/  

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I finally had a chance last night and tonight to swap oil pumps. Unfortunately the old pump didn't have backed out bolts. The rotor housing did have light scoring. Something else is happening. Next I'll pull the killer bee pan/pickup to inspect. That doesn't seem likely to have an issue but maybe there is something in the pan getting stuck in the pickup (also bad but unlikely).

The symptoms are just wierd. Runs fine for a while (even when oil is hot) and then randomly drops pressure. When I restart a couple of minutes later, it's fine again for a bit then repeats.

Anyone else have another idea? @m sprank 2018 type RA oem block with about 50k miles and now a brand new 10mm pump as well.

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6 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

I finally had a chance last night and tonight to swap oil pumps. Unfortunately the old pump didn't have backed out bolts. The rotor housing did have light scoring. Something else is happening. Next I'll pull the killer bee pan/pickup to inspect. That doesn't seem likely to have an issue but maybe there is something in the pan getting stuck in the pickup (also bad but unlikely).

The symptoms are just wierd. Runs fine for a while (even when oil is hot) and then randomly drops pressure. When I restart a couple of minutes later, it's fine again for a bit then repeats.

Anyone else have another idea? @m sprank 2018 type RA oem block with about 50k miles and now a brand new 10mm pump as well.

When you say it randomly drops pressure, is the oil light coming on or is there a legit drop in pressure via a mechanical guage? I'm sorry if I missed it earlier. 

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Randon loss of oil pressure.  Obsruction to flow, possibly contaminant or sludge? Malfunction of an ocv or avcs sprocket? Giant air bubble in oil system similar to a coolant system (should not happen, but throwing ideas out there).

 

Rarely would I suspect the pump if intermittant.  Something traveling through the system that causes a blockage and then "drops away" when pressure is reduced no longer forcing it to obstruct. 

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8 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

I finally had a chance last night and tonight to swap oil pumps. Unfortunately the old pump didn't have backed out bolts. The rotor housing did have light scoring. Something else is happening. Next I'll pull the killer bee pan/pickup to inspect. That doesn't seem likely to have an issue but maybe there is something in the pan getting stuck in the pickup (also bad but unlikely).

The symptoms are just wierd. Runs fine for a while (even when oil is hot) and then randomly drops pressure. When I restart a couple of minutes later, it's fine again for a bit then repeats.

Anyone else have another idea? @m sprank 2018 type RA oem block with about 50k miles and now a brand new 10mm pump as well.

 

This does not sound good! I have 40K on mine. But I have not installed any mechanical oil pressure gauge. So I don't know if it is also happening to mine. I do keep an eye on everything else the ECU reports though (using BtSsm), and it looks fine on mine. But the problem you are reporting could be happening to me too. Not sure. Kinda scary..

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Installed new lower coolant hoses and water pump.  The fuel injector seal kits Rockauto sells DO NOT fit our cars, but luckily a couple of the seals fit our dipstick tube, so I used them there.  OEM seals arrived from dealership yesterday.

Found an old transmission drain plug bolt off my DSM that fit's in the cylinder 3 oil galley.  Drilled a hole through the middle and tapped it for 1/8" NPT.   Pretty sure the oil pressure sensor for my new gauge won't fit straight up under the intake manifold, so I put a 90 degree elbow on that.

I'm doing a DIY cylinder 4 cooling mod, that also has a coolant temp sensor for my other new gauge the same way.

Edited by pksystems
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3 hours ago, Scottydunno said:

When you say it randomly drops pressure, is the oil light coming on or is there a legit drop in pressure via a mechanical guage? I'm sorry if I missed it earlier. 

The first time it happened the light came on. Then I watched my oil pressure via btssm (wired to tgvs) drop and would shut down before it got too low.

2 hours ago, m sprank said:

Randon loss of oil pressure.  Obsruction to flow, possibly contaminant or sludge? Malfunction of an ocv or avcs sprocket? Giant air bubble in oil system similar to a coolant system (should not happen, but throwing ideas out there).

 

Rarely would I suspect the pump if intermittant.  Something traveling through the system that causes a blockage and then "drops away" when pressure is reduced no longer forcing it to obstruct. 

Thanks for the items to check. AVCS functions correctly so I assume OCVs are good but I can still check them.

I'm leaning towards something in the pan that is getting sucked into my pickup screen and blocking flow. I may install a mechanical gauge for a sanity check. My pressure transducer could be giving false voltages too.

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Only time this kind of problems happened to me was with the OEM pick up tube. It was in fact cracked. Luckily I changed it before catastrophe occurred.. But you have a killerB. Pick up tube oring not seated well? Thinking out loud here..

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4 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

The first time it happened the light came on. Then I watched my oil pressure via btssm (wired to tgvs) drop and would shut down before it got too low.

Thanks for the items to check. AVCS functions correctly so I assume OCVs are good but I can still check them.

I'm leaning towards something in the pan that is getting sucked into my pickup screen and blocking flow. I may install a mechanical gauge for a sanity check. My pressure transducer could be giving false voltages too.

FWIW, it's not too hard to jack up the engine and drop the oil pan. I replaced my rusted out oil pan a few months back.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I suppose with a KillerB pick up you could have a mis-seated o-ring.  A small crack could cause the same issue.  I would check with a mechanical gauge, then as Max suggested jack up the engine and drop the pan. 

 

I am assuming the engine has the correct volume of oil. 

Edited by m sprank
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