rhino6303

Your boost (and timing) is really the issue with swapping exhaust manifolds as you'll hit higher boost with lower load values. Do you have the ability to run a lower boost map? If you can, run it and you should be ok; this is assuming you stay out of high load/boost driving. If you can't change your map, you should be fine ONLY if you can keep out of boost and moderate/high loads. This would mean staying under 3.5k and slow acceleration pretty much all of the time until you can get a retune.

If you're having fuel issues I wouldn't go WOT at all. It's a recipe to explode and melt things. Lean under load = bad day. Misfiring and high afr at idle is commonly a vacuum leak. You should log the following on your AP: Short term a/f correction, Long term a/f correction, AFR #1, MAF, Load, RPM. Post these values at cold start, cruise, and warm idle.

I think it's time for a compression test. This is simple and will at least point to or rule out whether an internal issue if it exists.

Rockauto usually.

I only buy BCA wheel bearings now.

DET21S-01-0565-4 Get these.

Do you know if there was a protune before you flashed the cobb ots tune? What are all of the modifications on the engine? I know you listed some but give us a single post with all if you can. Thanks. Intake, Injectors, Turbo, Downpipe, Intercooler, EBCS?

Neutral Safety Switch It detects when the car is in a gear or in neutral.

I would recommend you reach out to iwire as they specialize in swaps. They could answer any questions and give good feedback on which motor would be easiest to swap.

Can you post pictures please?

Lots of info here.

https://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 This might work. I'm unfamiliar with the wiring for the current generation but this should be able to inerceot the signal directly before the cluster and then change the value at the cluster. I have one on my lifted Impreza and it works great.

https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter/ I think this solution would work best.

Bolted on the back of the left TGV is an aluminum post with two ground wires bolted to it.

This is partially correct/incorrect. Open loop (uses maps and minimal sensors for fueling) is used at cold start and under any "hard" acceleration (several factors met in ecu). Closed loop is alway on once engine is warm (uses oxygen sensors, etc for fueling). This quote is from a thread on the outback forums to be a little more specific: Fueling on these cars starts with the ECM knowing where TDC is. Then it relies on the cam position to manage injector timing. The injector pulse is determined by TDC, Cam position and the AF sensor feedback at any rpm. The cam sensor is affective from start up. Higher RPM utilizes the AVCS system to help the car breath better and in conjunction the spark and fuel injector timing is altered based on feedback from several sensors listed below. CKP CMP MAF IAT MAP ECT AF Sensor(s) Rear O2 Sensor(s) Knock Sensor(s)

That actually doesn't do anything. The male side is just a jumper pin. You can just connect the two wires together and all will be well.

I think the ones for the injector are these: 16698AA050 16698AA060

The website doesn't have correct pricing. I paid $615 total in 2020 for the clutch kit (no flywheel).

I use the exedy flywheel. I have less than 15k on the setup since I haven't driven the car in over a year (haven't started/finished the engine build).

I have a zf design full metallic clutch. Reach out to them with and talk and they'll give a recommendation. It was very affordable as well.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43568262#post43568262

Can you take a picture of your main engine harness connector by the right side (passenger) firewall? If the connector isn't seated properly, you'll get issues. Can you take a picture of the rear left tgv (driver side)? There should be two main grounds attached to an aluminum post. If these are gone or not attached you'll get issues.

I quickly scanned over this again...did you check the main fuses in the engine compartment (the big ones with clear plastic over the top)?

Whatever you do, be sure to replace the torx+ with oem hex.

Are the test connectors plugged in?