rhino6303 Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 13 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said: So sorry man. So the pick up is fine but some baffle welds have failed? Is this a first? Never ever heard of failure of their parts. I also have their pick up tube (since 2013) but still oem pan. Pickup and windage tray are good. I have no clue how the baffle could have broken but it did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 9 hours ago, rhino6303 said: Pickup and windage tray are good. I have no clue how the baffle could have broken but it did. I wonder if, after the new oil pan is installed, you did a couple of quick oil changes to flush the oil system ? Worst case, the oil cooler may need replacing too ? It will be interesting to hear what Killer B says ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, rhino6303 said: Pickup and windage tray are good. I have no clue how the baffle could have broken but it did. Maybe the engine was hitting just the right frequencies at certain RPMs to create some resonance which eventually did this? I actually recall when I replaced the cracked OEM pick up on my 06, part of the OEM baffle (or some metal 'blade' within the OEM oil pan) cracked as well. I replaced the pick up with a Moroso at that time and I moved on. Engine still runs (original engine, not type RA). Edited October 10, 2022 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 On 10/8/2022 at 3:36 PM, rhino6303 said: Well I found the source of my oil pressure loss. I messaged Killer B to ask about next steps. I hope they'll help me out. I'm really concerned at this point of losing my engine at this point. I'll change oil frequently a few tines and hope for the best I guess. This sucks, I hope things work out for you. Do you think one of the loose baffles blocked the pickup intake? ... I didn't do anything to Bessie this weekend, but I did pick up a never assembled IAG Stage 2 Tuff short block. This wasn't the original path I had intended but I saw it pop on Facebook marketplace. I paid for what amounts to $300 more than a Spec RA block. I will be posting progress on Bessie's thread in my signature. 6 muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Nice find there ^ 1 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ajerezcl Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 I need a solid sway bar end-links. After 5 trackdays my whiteline front sway bar end links are death. Any recomendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksystems Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Changed spark plugs and coils. One of the previous owners was trying to figure out a misfire issue. Plugs had some carbon build up, but didn't look that bad. Coils didn't look that new. Intakes were definitely blasted with something, but since the timing belt wasn't done, I know they did it on the car. Pulled heater core hoses and started working on my cylinder 4 cooling mod/coolant temp gauge sensor install. That's on hold till I find an M12 hex bit, or weld an old bolt onto a socket. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haze Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Gutted the driver's side of the interior so I could go through all the add-on wiring. I was hoping to find the cause of my parking light issues but no luck there. Still glad I did it though. Found some sketchy stuff like the power wire for the aftermarket gauges being run through moving parts of the clutch pedal assembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tehspud Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 15 hours ago, Ajerezcl said: I need a solid sway bar end-links. After 5 trackdays my whiteline front sway bar end links are death. Any recomendations? Kartboy will probably do the trick. If you're using a whiteline bar in the front, get the spacers, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 Got back at the rust on the rear quarter of the 2005 with POR15. This time I stirred it properly and it cured in a few hours. Still need to sand and paint over it sometime this week while the weather holds out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksystems Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Installed my DIY cylinder 4 cooling mod and coolant temperature sensor. Ghetto fabulous, but cheap. Oil pan drain bolt tapped to 1/4 NPT, then a tee, then a bushing for the 1/8 temp sensor. 5/16" barb on other side. This will mate to a 5/8 to 5/8 to 5/16 tee in the heater hose return. Started removing the brake booster and master cylinder. STi parts are going on tomorrow. While under the dashboard I started trying to figure out what brand of remote starter this car has, so I can see if I can source a remote. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Should be receiving replacement front calipers for my recently installed Powerstop kit from Rockauto today. Left front caliper was locked up and getting a little hot (actually really hot!). Pads and rotor appear to be ok. They do not want the old parts back which is odd to me so I will have a set of calipers for cheap if anyone needs them. Left one needs some attention in the piston area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 4 hours ago, whitexc said: Should be receiving replacement front calipers for my recently installed Powerstop kit from Rockauto today. Left front caliper was locked up and getting a little hot (actually really hot!). Pads and rotor appear to be ok. They do not want the old parts back which is odd to me so I will have a set of calipers for cheap if anyone needs them. Left one needs some attention in the piston area. They don't want them for "cores". I wonder if they know something they are not telling you, those old parts are junk. I went through 5 right front calipers from NAPA before I got a good one. That was over a few years, well outside the normal warranty. NAPA covered all them for free. They found out the "reman company" had an issue with their tooling. 1 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Yeah, it's a crapshoot with anything aftermarket and/or reman. Just love replacing recently replaced parts. It's fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Nothing *I* did, but picked up my car from the body shop, after they took care of the minor collision damage from a few weeks ago. Like it never happened! As a bonus, they did the whole front bumper bar, which was definitely pretty chipped up and in need of paint. Only down side is I now have a quarter of the car that looks great, but the rest is still rusty garbage. Ah well, that is my problem to fix in the future. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 The paint looks great. But yea, driving in this area in the Winter is hard on paint. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearJamr Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I notice you are missing the side skirts. I have a pair in my basement you can have. Would just have to arrange pickup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Thanks man! I actually do have them, but the car was up and down off Quickjacks so many times in the process of doing all the suspension, engine bay and exhaust work that I took them off pretty early in the process, rather than have them get all chewed up. Doesn't look quite right, but I also need to cut so much rust and metal out of the drivers side fender, they might as well stay off for the time being... =/ I need to decide how to address that. I'm still on the fence about whether i shoudl just glue the new panels in, or man up and start practicing my thin metal welding skills.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearJamr Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Maybe just get replacement fenders. People seem to be selling legacy fronts fairly often. If it's the rears....well, you can get subiesavers but that will definitely involve more cutting and welding. I got myself a pair of madrig's rear quarters for my wagon. it was pricey to get them put on but they'll never rust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 45 minutes ago, GearJamr said: Maybe just get replacement fenders. People seem to be selling legacy fronts fairly often. If it's the rears....well, you can get subiesavers but that will definitely involve more cutting and welding. I got myself a pair of madrig's rear quarters for my wagon. it was pricey to get them put on but they'll never rust. Yeah, it's the rears. The usual Subaru wagon rear wheel rot. I've got a pair of Subiesavers panels in the basement, just been too busy with every other thing in life to get around to it. I know roughly nothing about doing proper body panel work. I figure no matter how it goes, the car is going to be off the road for at least a couple of months while I learn the basics, do the job, redo half the job, realize I should have paid someone in the first place, then come around to feeling satisfied that I did the job myself.... You know, the DIY mentality/illness cycle. I also don't really have anywhere but my crap driveway to do it. So, my solution to not paying the body shop that is *literally* at the end of my street ~$1k/side to replace the rear arches, is to instead spend $30K on a garage so I can do the job myself. Probably poorly. 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearJamr Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Atta boy. Get down with the sickness. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 New caliper installed to replace the sticker. Oil change with some T6 (I finally found some at the local Home Depot), Mazda filter.....found drivers front axle boot ripped and slinging the goodness all about so that's next. What is the general consensus on rebooting axles? OEM kits? Should probably do it this week. FML. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, whitexc said: New caliper installed to replace the sticker. Oil change with some T6 (I finally found some at the local Home Depot), Mazda filter.....found drivers front axle boot ripped and slinging the goodness all about so that's next. What is the general consensus on rebooting axles? OEM kits? Should probably do it this week. FML. What's the price difference for oem? My gut says the hard parts would be what separates quality from garbage on axles and the reboots probably don't matter as much? Effectiveness of the reboot is probably down to grease quality and application, and then correct fastening plier usage. As for my 4th gen legacy today... I didn't really do anything to it, but for it. A couple weeks ago I picked up the bigger pieces of a black interior swap. Today is driver's seat cleaning day. Yucky poison fart tan seat and new black freshness for comparison. Also this has me thinking. Many years ago I got a bracket piece that bolts to the floor on the driver's seat that holds the floor mat in place. I've taken it for granted for a long time, how many other of you have that bit? Is this something more new owners need to find out about? Edited October 15, 2022 by seanyb505 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 8 hours ago, seanyb505 said: Also this has me thinking. Many years ago I got a bracket piece that bolts to the floor on the driver's seat that holds the floor mat in place. I've taken it for granted for a long time, how many other of you have that bit? Is this something more new owners need to find out about? That was a cool solution by Subaru. Loved mine. A tech inspector managed to rip it out of the floor before a hpde. 1 Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 IAG floor mat bracket, must have! https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-driver-side-floor-mat-bracket-for-2002-07-subaru-wrx-sti-black-finish/ 1 1 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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