What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[KZJonny]

26 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

IAG floor mat bracket, must have!

https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-driver-side-floor-mat-bracket-for-2002-07-subaru-wrx-sti-black-finish/

Sweet. The bracket in my car was rusted beyond recognition, so I removed it, and the carpet hook has ripped out. That’s a neat idea to make a retainer hook for my Weathertech liners. I think for $35 USD tho, I may just bend some aluminium bar and thread a ss cap screw into it…. $4 maybe? (For a thing that lives under a mat, I don’t know I care that it is wrinkle black 6061 series…!)

Edited October 16, 2022 by KZJonny

[xt2005bonbon]

On 10/15/2022 at 9:58 AM, whitexc said:

New caliper installed to replace the sticker. Oil change with some T6 (I finally found some at the local Home Depot), Mazda filter.....found drivers front axle boot ripped and slinging the goodness all about so that's next. 

What is the general consensus on rebooting axles? OEM kits? Should probably do it this week. FML. 

I prefer OEM kits.

[effnakedteeth]

I pulled my first engine out of my 2005 auto. Unfortunately I think it may be a one step forward and two back moment. Amongst all the shaking and pulling, my transmission support moved, so when I got the engine studs out the trans dropped a little down to the cross member. The torque converter popped out a bit, but enough to leak some ATF. I’ve got it back in place, but am I pretty hosed on seals? Any way to test the seals aside from waiting for a leak after the rebuilt engine is back in place?

[KZJonny]

11 hours ago, effnakedteeth said:

I pulled my first engine out of my 2005 auto. Unfortunately I think it may be a one step forward and two back moment. Amongst all the shaking and pulling, my transmission support moved, so when I got the engine studs out the trans dropped a little down to the cross member. The torque converter popped out a bit, but enough to leak some ATF. I’ve got it back in place, but am I pretty hosed on seals? Any way to test the seals aside from waiting for a leak after the rebuilt engine is back in place?

I'd start with a visual inspection maybe? Get a flashlight and and eyeball on the seals. Torque convertor is always gonna leak a bit when you're pulling an engine.

I you can't see any visible nicks or tears in the seals, I'd have a go at just stabbing it back in and bolting it back together. Unless the seals are cheap? Then just replace them for peace of mind. I can't think of any way to test shaft seals without assembling the parts.

[SubOperator]

The front passenger side wheel bearing started to whine. It is the original iirc and I had some slight noise there that came and went under certain loads and speed. For a longest time I though it was my original 5MT but the noise stayed after conversion to 6MT. I guess since the car is not driven much these days, the bearing finally revealed itself. Time to get new OEM unit and do some front end work - I have new OEM rotors and JDM front end to put on. Will have to do that work in phases, time's too tight these days.

[pksystems]

Hammered the lip on the STi booster out of the way, and installed the booster/master cylinder.

Needed to pull the wipers/cowl to undo the AC hardline clips so I could move the line out of the way.  I'm finding the PO's cigarette butts everywhere  

Installed exhaust manifold, uppipe, shields and turbo.  I really don't like that hard oil feed line. It's begging to get snapped off installing a turbo.  It's fine now, but I'll find a replacement braided one in the future.

 

[Haze]

Added a new crankshaft and set of piston rings to the pile of rebuild parts and did the fogs as DRLs mod while I have everything torn apart under the dash. 

[SubOperator]

4 minutes ago, pksystems said:

Needed to pull the wipers/cowl to undo the AC hardline clips so I could move the line out of the way.  I'm finding the PO's cigarette butts everywhere  

Great opportunity to install some metal mesh shield over the cabin air intake to protect from mice infestation.

[Max Capacity]

43 minutes ago, pksystems said:

Hammered the lip on the STi booster out of the way, and installed the booster/master cylinder.

Needed to pull the wipers/cowl to undo the AC hardline clips so I could move the line out of the way.  I'm finding the PO's cigarette butts everywhere  

Installed exhaust manifold, uppipe, shields and turbo.  I really don't like that hard oil feed line. It's begging to get snapped off installing a turbo.  It's fine now, but I'll find a replacement braided one in the future.

 

Take the oil feed line off in one piece, don't try and un-mate it at the B nut. My wagon still has the old line. works great.

[Serflex]

I'm having an issue with my '06 JDM. I've posted a bit more about it here if anyone fancies taking a look: 600 RPM drop.

 

Picture for attention

[lagwagon]

Went to the body shop's estimates location and pulled my license plate off. Currently, without even evaluating the value of the car, insurance is saying they are going to write it off. I'm waiting for their offer but I've already supplied them receipts for the last two years totally over $7k CAD. Estimate came in at $6k CAD. Closest comparable is an 08 Outback XT for $9K with unknown mechanical condition. Other option is to update (not upgrade) to a 5th gen but GTs or 3.6Rs are pretty hard to find around here.

[pksystems]

Pulled apart the Outback XT intake I picked up off FB awhile ago and cleaned all the parts.

Pulled off the coolant crossover to change O-rings and noticed some deep pitting on the mating surface.  I don't think this is corrosion, more like pits from the casting.  Cleaned it good and put a small amount of JBWeld to fill the holes.  I'll block sand it down and reinstall it tomorrow.

[Max Capacity]

I flushed the brake fluid in the Spec B today. It's been about 2 years since the last time. I tried a couple of days ago to do it with my Motive Power bleeder, but for some reason I couldn't get the pressure cap to seal on the MC. Today I had the GF pump the brake pedal. Flushed almost a qt of fluid through. The pressure cap worked great on the wagon the last time I used it...

[BoozeRS05]

I had a ton of trouble installing the pump cap to the MC for my Motive Bleeder last time I used it too. Could not get it seated properly and made a huge mess.

[Max Capacity]

Going to do the 18' Outback on Saturday. I'll try the cap on that, I just read some FAQ's on Motives site.

Seems you push the cap down first, make sure it's fully down, then twist it...

 

I'll lube the o-ring with fluid, then try it. I didn't make too big of a mess, I was prepared.

[tehspud]

Got the winter tires on this evening. High yesterday was 75, high tomorrow will be 51, and looks to stay that way, so it’s time. 

Edited October 21, 2022 by tehspud

[Max Capacity]

We've had 26F the past 3 mornings here in NE CT in the little valley we live in. Not doing snowtires till Thanksgiving time. Unless...

[Scottydunno]

I stared at my instrument cluster... 

 

Now that the car has been relegated to weekend warrior duty, I've been noticing small things. One of those things was the needles for the speedo and tach. Someone in one of the FB subaru groups I'm in said that they aren't centered. I laughed and thought that was nuts. They weren't wrong and it now catches my attention everytime I look down. 

 

I swear, some people just want to watch the world burn..

[TonyF]

20 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I had a ton of trouble installing the pump cap to the MC for my Motive Bleeder last time I used it too. Could not get it seated properly and made a huge mess.

 

19 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Going to do the 18' Outback on Saturday. I'll try the cap on that, I just read some FAQ's on Motives site.

Seems you push the cap down first, make sure it's fully down, then twist it...

 

I'll lube the o-ring with fluid, then try it. I didn't make too big of a mess, I was prepared.

The motive bleeder works best as just an air chamber, even if it leaks it's just air, and yes a little brake fluid on the oring goes a long way, some other caps use a flat donut of different thickness, they also sell a universal that has what you need to clamp it down onto various sized MCs. 

BTW last mod I did was ISC coilovers last weekend, what a fun project, got the race spec 10k f/8k r, because racecar.  

[cheeseenlo]

Car is back up on jack stands. I thought I had done enough research on my SpecB 6-speed swap, NOPE!

The NSS differs between the 05-06 and 07+ model years. I figured this out by using the AP logging gear position. It continued to think I was in neutral while in gear. When out of gear, the gear determination logic thought I was in gear (6 through 1). In short, the switch in the earlier years is normally open, later years is normally closed.

Wish me luck. I'm trying to do this without dropping the transmission.

[Smithcraft]

TPMS came on, and I checked the tires when I was at a friends.

All the tires were just low, perhaps due to the cold snap, so I grabbed my pump and pumped them all up.

And killed the ancient battery.

Two hours later, AAA showed up and got me going.

So, there is now a new Interstate battery in the car!

And I also gave it a wipe down to get the last weeks ash off of it.

SC

[Max Capacity]

On 10/20/2022 at 4:06 PM, BoozeRS05 said:

I had a ton of trouble installing the pump cap to the MC for my Motive Bleeder last time I used it too. Could not get it seated properly and made a huge mess.

I got smart this time, installed the Motive Bleeder cap on the Outbacks MC, pressurized it to 5 psi while I got the quickjacks set up and the car in the air, checking pressure from time to time. It held pressure, so a put a little DOT3 in the tank, gave it 10psi after putting a bunch of absorbent mats around. It didn't leak, so a put the rest of the Qt. in the tank and flushed the system.

 

Oh, yea, I did put a little DOT3 on the o-ring on the cap before installing it.

 

[rhino6303]

20 hours ago, cheeseenlo said:

Car is back up on jack stands. I thought I had done enough research on my SpecB 6-speed swap, NOPE!

The NSS differs between the 05-06 and 07+ model years. I figured this out by using the AP logging gear position. It continued to think I was in neutral while in gear. When out of gear, the gear determination logic thought I was in gear (6 through 1). In short, the switch in the earlier years is normally open, later years is normally closed.

Wish me luck. I'm trying to do this without dropping the transmission.

That's an easy swap. You won't need to drop the transmission.

I sent killer b my pan and my oil pump. They still believe it was an issue from my setup that caused the drop in oil pressure rather than the broken baffle restricting flow so I sent my pump in to prove the bypass valve moves freely and the gears were fine.

It sucks that I'll have to start again and my motivation to do it is low. We're building a house and all extraneous funds are low. I may just flush oil several times and send it knowing a bearing is on its way out. I have a new oil cooler already to swap.

Advice?

[BoozeRS05]

1 hour ago, Max Capacity said:

I got smart this time, installed the Motive Bleeder cap on the Outbacks MC, pressurized it to 5 psi while I got the quickjacks set up and the car in the air, checking pressure from time to time. It held pressure, so a put a little DOT3 in the tank, gave it 10psi after putting a bunch of absorbent mats around. It didn't leak, so a put the rest of the Qt. in the tank and flushed the system.

 

Oh, yea, I did put a little DOT3 on the o-ring on the cap before installing it.

 

I actually think the previous trouble I was having was with my 14 Forester, but it was still user error and not that the cap didn’t fit.

I need to revisit it though, my brakes feel a little mushy. I’ll try your suggestions.

———

Got my rear spats mounted today, but unfortunately my bumper needs repainted and the spats are dramatically fresher so idk if they’ll be staying. Don’t know if I love the look anyway, but still a bummer.

[Max Capacity]

I should add, the right rear on the Outback, I had to do the "homemade" impact tool to break the bleeder loose. The 10mm tubing wrench wouldn't move the bleeder. I put a couple of drops of Aero-Kroil on the threads, grabbed the 10MM 3/8 impact socket and 1/4" adaptor on the 1/4" breaker bar, hit it a few times with a ball peen hammer, and it came loose.