pksystems

Is that the fumoto valve that has a rubber o-ring in it? I've seen people have issues with that one leaking.

Pulled calipers out of the evaporust. These things looked horrible before the soak and a couple quick scrubs with a brush. One of the pistons has a rough spot of rust where the chrome plating was damaged, so I'll need to buy a new piston, or grab one from a different car at the junkyard. It looks like Subaru uses the same pistons in most of their calipers.

Pulled the pistons from my junkyard calipers and tossed the bare brackets/calipers into a bucket of evaporust. I'll leave them in there for a couple weeks, occasionally giving them a scrub till they look new.

Picked up some LGT front calipers from the junkyard for refurbishing if I don't use my 17Z Brembos. While I was there I also grabbed some 18Z Brembos to sell and put in the money jar for more LGT parts.

Legacy is put away till I fix my other 2 cars. Parts still arriving for when I get back to it. Black leather with red stitching seat belt pads, e-brake boot, arm rest top. Yes, the e-brake boot is wrong. The seller has already shipped me out a new part.

Yes I know the afr is quite high idling. I don't think the tone changes when I rev it. I haven't run it longer then ~10minutes. I'm beginning to wonder if my gates timing tensioner is an issue after watching YouTube vids with similar ticking. I didn't check where all the components were made.

Getting ready to move this thing to the carport so I can swap an engine into my Forester before winter..... I drained a bit of oil into a clear container through my fumoto valve, and it doesn't have any flakes in it. Is this racket from lifters? I'm getting some smoke from both sides of the engine once it warms up. I think it's coolant dripping on the exhaust, altho maybe I have an exhaust leak? Water pump was new when I did timing belt. After swapping out my MAF sensor to a known good one, my AFR at idle is around 18, which is better then the 20-22 with the MAF that came on the car.

Opened up my hatch wiring to see why my reverse light wasn't working. I did test the bulb before I sealed everything up...... I think it was about to die. Swapped in white LED's for the backup lights, and red LED's for the licence plate lights. Investigated and fixed the broken wire on drivers side hatch grommet. I can now get all radio stations.

No. I noticed that too. I was in garage with no coat, so at least 18C. The car wasn't running, just 2-3 clicks on to test everything if that would effect that temp gauge. Not sure if the factory changer worked. I haven't really driven the car, other then from carport into garage. It ejected 6 discs from the previous owner fine.

Finally took out that craptastic cd changer. JDM dual climate control, and a JVC dual din touchscreen. Backup camera even works when you shift into reverse. The reverse light I stole power from for the camera isn't working tho, hopefully it's just burnt out.

LOL. I just ran my backup camera wiring, and saw a wire that wasn't connected to anything.... I didn't see another piece of wire for it to connect to, so I figured I'd wait and see what's not working. I guess I'll be pulling this open again later. Already found a video that doesn't look too difficult. ...... Finished wiring up my JDM dual din harness. Picked up a used JVC kw-v200bt for cheap off FB Marketplace. Wiring went pretty straight forward, except I ripped one of the wires out of the JVC harness connector while trying to strip the wire. The connector is missing some plastic, but I superglued the wire where it goes, and it seems to have continuity.

Installed backup camera. It's outside of the licence plate lights so it's a bit wonky, but better then nothing. Recieved some more Amazon parts.... SBC thermostat gasket (knockoff of that pricey Mr Gasket one, prob made in same factory) And what was supposed to be a plain red anodized e-brake grip. I might complain and see if they give it to me free, altho it was only $15 shipped. It even came with some anodized shavings inside it. No idea if it will fit, but I'll see what I can do.

Did some boost leak testing. I can hear a leak under the intercooler but can't seem to find it, so I figured I'd test with the intercooler off the car to see if it leaks. I cleaned out the factory tmic and jbwelded the seams in the summer. It seems to hold 10psi for several minutes. Sprayed it down with soapy water. I am leaking air by my MDF block off flange, so I guess I'll replace that seal when I put the tmic back on car. When I go to about 15psi the princessauto tester fires out of my old throttle body coupler (that has a torn rubber sleeve) like a cannon. I should have a nice bruise on my hand for a couple weeks. I have a newish perrin silicone throttle body coupler installed on the car with t-bolt clamp that I know isn't leaking on the throttle body, so I didn't want to pull it off to test the top mount.

Picked up a JDM dual climate zone center panel with i88 harness and a pioneer head unit off FB marketplace. I don't plan to use the head unit. I now need to find a touchscreen to be used with the Clarion backup camera I grabbed from picknpull awhile ago.

Pulled my wideband gauge out of center cubby and was able to feed my serial port connector behind the dash to it with a long piece of aluminum ground wire. Now I can log AFR whenever I get this thing working. Did another boost leak test. Not building any pressure in the engine, but I can hear I have a major leak under intake near the PCV. I guess I'll pull the TMIC and look for anything that might be leaking, altho all the hoses in that area are new. Also put some Autoglym leather conditioner on the steering wheel. It's pretty rough.

Pulled off a bunch of parts to verify I have my catch can's routed correctly. While searching on net I managed to find this install diagram which is a million times easier to figure out compared to youtube videos. It just happens that I ran my lines exactly this way, with one difference. I added a PCV check valve/barb adapter inline (to keep boost out of the catch can/lines) on the green return line before the intake. I have 2 check valves that both seem to work running inline with one another in the same direction. Would this cause any issues? I've tried replacing the factory PCV check valve with just a barb, but I'm pretty sure that plastic tee is going to explode before I get the oem fitting out.

Meh.... Tried to do a boost leak test with my homemade tester. Pinched off all the lines running off the intake tube, and all the air is leaking out the oil cap. Tried rotating the engine a couple degrees if a valve is open, but still leaking all the air out the cap. I'm sure I need to pinch off another line on one of my catch cans or something. I remember boost leak testing my DSM, and it was a piece of cake that would hold air for several minutes after I fixed a couple small leaks.

Back to this thing after a month of family weddings...etc... Figured I'd make sure the injectors are clean and appear to be firing correctly, so I made a simple jig with another fuel rail. 6 of 8 appear good so far (I have 2 sets) I made a boost leak adapter and will check for leaks after I verify the last 2 injectors and reinstall them.

That's better then the one I'm fixing. Those donut exhaust gasket things were rusted out exactly the same. I ended up welding some extra plates onto the ends of the exhaust to fix the pitted flanges, and put real exhaust gaskets on there.

Started it up for the first time in a year. No fuel leaks with my new teflon lines. No oil leaks. Coolant leak to track down, but I think it just needs a better clamp on new silicone upper reservoir hose. Engine is running very rough tho. Wideband that I free-air calibrated a couple months ago is reading just under 20 at idle. I think I must have a massive air leak in one of the couplers or a bad sensor/injector. The guy I bought it off of, bought this car from the PO and said they had a misfire issue they couldn't track down. I replaced all the coil packs/spark plugs and leaking PCV hoses (with catch can setup) but I did reuse the injectors. I have another set of injectors I can swap in if I find a bad one. The only CEL's I got were for the TGV deletes, but I've since disabled those codes with ecuflash. Also installed my modded grill. Man my bodywork on that is horrid. Scratches everywhere I'll need to fill/sand/repaint later. Received my knockoff Perrin accessory belt cover. I'll have to make some WRX style tabs to properly mount it.

Bled the brakes with my homemade pressure bleeder. The factory cap/seal wants to leak unless you fiddle/turn it to the exact spot. 10 psi is what I used. Pedal seems firm. Started filling all the remaining fluids.

Pretty much finished installing everything in engine bay. Just need some fluids and an accessory belt cover. Might make one if I cant find one. I'll need to bleed the brakes, so I figured I would make a power brake bleeder with junk I had lying around garage. Air compressor set to low pressure with an inline filter and the cap of my old reservoir with some fittings/washers/o-rings.

Drained and refilled front/rear diffs as well as the transmission. Contrary to what I was seeing on the forums, my rear diff does infact have crush washers on the plugs. And they are on the side of the diff. My Forester has the layout I was expecting to see. 6 piston Brembo swap is on hold, so I tossed on some amazon rotors/pads. Lower caliper slides were seized but I managed to get them free and cleaned them up. Cleaned up the factory intercooler and JBWelded the entire crimped edge.

Started doing rear brakes Installed all fuel lines Installed grimmspeed silicone post maf hose Installed new panel intake filter and box Added larger ground wire to ported TGV housing since I had to reorganize some grounds. Finished my front emblem. Wetsanded the blue off and gave it a shot of red duplicolor metal specks. Then filled in the back with epoxy to try to keep the badge from cracking if it takes a rock hit.

Yes. Anyone know where an aftermarket remote starter hood pin switch would attach on the engine bay harness? The install manual from a diff manufacturer (couldn't find my exact model, but brain wiring looks identical) just says hood pin runs directly to brain. I'm wondering if one of the previous owners installed it wrong.