Rhitter's Build Thread

[Rhitter]

Is that a specific brand of bar, or ebay special?

 

Whiteline KSB630 - I emailed Whiteline to confirm that this is how it's supposed to fit, before I can say if it fits with the GS intercooler or not. It interferes slightly with the splitter. I'll probably stick foam to the bottom of it to direct air though the Intercooler core better. Body below the bar, bar is pressed into soft foamy hood seal. I could't get it below there due to the metal pipes (and metal pipe holders and some plastic stick down bits)

http://i.imgur.com/fy5vIEu.jpg

[LatentWagen]

Is it adjustable up/down in/out? Less clearance to the top of the intercooler, but more from the engine-bay weather-stripping. If not, do you have enough spare to take a few threads off?

[Rhitter]

Is it adjustable up/down in/out? Less clearance to the top of the intercooler, but more from the engine-bay weather-stripping. If not, do you have enough spare to take a few threads off?

 

Muscled it into place more. Unsure how hard these things are normally to install. But just needed to shorten the screws and push on it more. It's tucked under now and pushed up against a plastic clip that's holding a little metal pipe. The angles just seem slightly off from what they should be. Although, when the bar that fits perfectly is $400, this is probably worth it....

 

http://i.imgur.com/5u0DWvu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QRNmbx8.jpg

Edited April 26, 2017 by Rhitter

[hadvw]

Looks better.. May need to add that to the list

[bigleben]

Looks better that way but hopefully for you its not to much of a pain to uninstall in order to remove the TMIC.

[freshADR]

If they are available for our model, I would recommend fender braces to tighten up the front. The strut tower bar will be amplified with fender braces. Typically a cost effective mod as well.

[LatentWagen]

If they are available for our model, I would recommend fender braces to tighten up the front. The strut tower bar will be amplified with fender braces. Typically a cost effective mod as well.

 

Not only are they available, but the mounting holes should be pre-drilled. Some JDM variants got braces, stock. S402, at least.

[Flinkly]

Not only are they available, but the mounting holes should be pre-drilled. Some JDM variants got braces, stock. S402, at least.

forum law dictates that pictures of said part(s) must be posted, in situations like this.

[WRX USA]

forum law dictates that pictures of said part(s) must be posted, in situations like this.

 

These are JDM aftermarket. This is the driver's side.

 

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv87/JoshEAllen/IMG_4844.jpg

[Rhitter]

I think they are all JDM parts though....TiC makes some that are super simple and relatively affordable, but unfortunately don't fit the Legacy GT.

 

Fender braces are on my list though

 

JDM fender braces part numbers

50866AG0009P

50866AG0109P

 

I guess only the 08-09's have the holes.

Edited May 1, 2017 by Rhitter

[LatentWagen]

forum law dictates that pictures of said part(s) must be posted, in situations like this.

 

No can find, that's weird. Could've sworn I saw something about an S402 with them.

 

For half-credit, here is said factory brace on an STi:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/freeman4ever/TIC%20Fender%20Braces/Factorybrace_left.jpg

[freshADR]

Yeah when I had a GDB-F I had Paranoid Fabrication fender braces. One of my favorite suspensions mods and I believe they were like less than a hundred bucks for the pair.

[Rhitter]

Removed, TMIC, DP, starter, driveshaft heat shield. Figured out the strategy for the axles. Will slowly over the next week take everything apart and put it back together.

 

I know Boxkita mentioned he thought fender braces would make a big difference. Need something like this

 

http://www.rallitek.com/16734-thickbox_default/gtspec-fender-reinforcement-brace-wrx-sti-2008-2014.jpg

Edited April 30, 2017 by Rhitter

[Underdog]

The conventional wisdom is primarily based on feedback from people who put a strut tower brace on an otherwise stock(ish) car. With a compliant suspension there is less force being transferred into the chassis. With a stiffer spring/shock combo, poly bushings, stickier rubber, etc. the bracing becomes more noticeable.

 

Car is looking good Mac. Glad to see you are still at it.

[Rhitter]

This more for my records, I'll update it as I slowly remove everything

1. Remove strut tower bar (interferes with rear GS TMIC mounting point)

2. Remove GS TMIC

3. Remove GS throttle body coupler (was sort of in the way the starter)

4. Remove top starter bolt

5. Remove GS heat shield

6. Remove all put one of the turbo to DP bolts

7. Jack car up (front and rear) used a giant block of wood to get the front higher

8. Remove DP to mid-pip bolts

9. Remove DP to hanger bolt

10. Remove 02 sensor

11. Remove down pipe

10. Remove lower starter bolt

11. Disconnect starter cable (move it up and out of the way)

TO DO - grease the starter gear

to be continued

 

Remove axles per - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/removing-front-axles-without-removing-ball-joint-127203.html

Edited April 30, 2017 by Rhitter

[rebourne]

Wow. Yea.... I'm paying someone else to do it.

[xtea]

This more for my records, I'll update it as I slowly remove everything

1. Remove strut tower bar (interferes with rear GS TMIC mounting point)

2. Remove GS TMIC

3. Remove GS throttle body coupler (was sort of in the way the starter)

4. Remove top starter bolt

5. Remove GS heat shield

6. Remove all put one of the turbo to DP bolts

7. Jack car up (front and rear) used a giant block of wood to get the front higher

8. Remove DP to mid-pip bolts

9. Remove DP to hanger bolt

10. Remove 02 sensor

11. Remove down pipe

10. Remove lower starter bolt

11. Disconnect starter cable (move it up and out of the way)

TO DO - grease the starter gear

to be continued

 

Remove axles per - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/removing-front-axles-without-removing-ball-joint-127203.html

 

There's video on you tube of a guy who thinks he change out our clutch in 2 hours. Maybe...But your list already gave me sore arms.

[Rhitter]

I got sick (thank you wife and then baby) so it has taken me awhile longer to get back at it. Here is where I am at.

 

It took me 45 minutes to do the driver side and 5 minutes to do the passenger side...

Notes on this method Remove axles per - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...nt-127203.html

1. Read everything twice and don't remove rear LCA. Hopefully my caster is the same. I did mark it, but the bushing fell off.

2. Take off wheels.

3. Come up with the perfect system to hammer out the tie rods without bending the tie rod threads (like I did to my Whitelines....)

 

Did not need to do this:

http://i.imgur.com/06vo0Pt.jpg

 

Perfect system to remove tie rods without damaging them, castle nut on upside down, hard plastic to help distribute force, wood block to hit with mini-sledge.

http://i.imgur.com/rGEMdsG.jpg

 

Success!

http://i.imgur.com/pdKfq8z.jpg

 

Everything that needs to be disconnected for this method to work

http://i.imgur.com/UPmdEDW.jpg

 

Next need to

Remove rear drive shaft

Support engine (wood / rolled towel between engine and radiator fans)

Remove all bolts from engine to transmission

Attach transmission jack

Remove transmission crossmembers / support

Disconnect shift linkage

Pry a part transmission and engine

Install 5mt re-enforcement plates

Install shift linkage bushing (under the car, might be tricky)

Install shift bushing in cabin

remove all old clutch parts and clean well

Clean new flywheel and install all new clutch parts correctly (need to watch a video)

 

Redo everything I just did in reverse and some how use the right bolts

 

 

TO DO:

Attach driver side LCA bracket

Grease the starter gear

Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks)

At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly

Edited May 5, 2017 by Rhitter

[covertrussian]

Any reason your LCA bushings are adjusted for no caster gain?

[Rhitter]

Any reason your LCA bushings are adjusted for no caster gain?

 

No clue, I thought it was odd with my last alignment that they didn't give me as much as I thought I could get. I am wondering if I forgot to say "as much caster as possible" so they defaulted to OEM specs.

 

Thanks for catching that. I'll have to get it fixed sometime this summer (when I install KTA124 that I still need to buy) and Pink springs.

 

If I adjust it myself that will effect toe right?

Edited May 5, 2017 by Rhitter

[covertrussian]

It happens, this guy first installed it with them rotated to reduce caster instead of increase it. My toe did go out of alignment after adjusting caster, so you will need to get that adjusted after.

[wpmarky]

Hey mac, had no idea you did so much work to your car, looks great!

 

I'm thinking of adding more bracing as well this year. Lemme know if you pull the trigger on anything & how you like it.

[Rhitter]

All my work is hidden by my stock wheels with snow tires . Looking at changing that up soon. High in the running are Enkei PF01s in bright silver.

 

I asked MSprank about bracing and he mentioned that one piece at a time don't really notice, if you go all in that's where the benefits are.

 

But I did order (and receive) a rear strut tower bar. It supposedly fits under the carpet (once cut). I figured with a wagon and a flexy body shell, that area could benefit from some bracing. Once I install it will let you know if I can feel a difference.

 

I was actually surprised that I noticed one with the front tower bar (even with my soft tires)

 

Now, I don't spend anytime on the track, so I am not sure if these are actually "go-fast" mods, but they do improve my day to day driving experience.

[Rhitter]

More from the adventures of a guy who pretends to be mechanically inclined.

TLDR a transmission fell on me and spilled oil all over the ground. Rear O2 sensor coated in oil.

Worked from 3-6:30 (with random breaks)

Removed

Driveshaft - 4 bolts at the back, 2 at the midpoint. Pulled out nicely

Shifter connections to transmission (shifter knuckle still needs to be taken apart for TIC bushings). Lower bolt can't be removed, messed with it for so long before I saw the transmission tail gets in the way.

6 transmission bell housing bolts (2 were removed as part of the starter removal)

Transmission bracket - 2 17mm, 4 14mm bolts, group-n mount connections (2 14mm)

At this point supported by the jack.

Transmission and engine separated super easily and then it just stopped. I couldn't get it out fought with it for so long. Turbo got in the way, etc, etc.

 

Turns out I didn't have the transmission jack adjusted properly and didn't realize it. There was nothing supporting the back and the the transmission was trying to tilt down (which caused turbo interference). I finally got it off the lower bolts (hopefully they aren't bent) and the transmission tilted backward and hit the firewall (sort of) also started to pour oil everywhere.

 

So, transmission was stuck on the firewall, I jacked it back up, got everything clear and lowered it. I lowered it too fast, whole thing sort of feel (on the jack still) with my hand supporting the rear of it. Luckily it was light enough it really wasn't that bad. But, the tail section hit the oil drain pan I had and poured oil everywhere. Sort of feel like it would have been easier if I had just bench pressed it out of the car....

 

TO DO:

Attach driver side LCA bracket - done

Grease the starter gear

Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks)

At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly

Install TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings

Install TiC 5MT Lever Pivot Bushings

Install TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings

Install blast plates

 

Shifter knuckle, need to remove that pin so I can replace the bushings and rods)

http://i.imgur.com/peVG6FK.jpg?2

 

Cracked super easily

http://i.imgur.com/YJu9TIx.jpg

 

Minor oil spill, cardboard on the left is sopping up more of it

http://i.imgur.com/DfXrRCw.jpg?1

 

Dirty bellhousing

http://i.imgur.com/IMZbYsu.jpg

 

Old Southbend stage 2 daily clutch

http://i.imgur.com/DgzgbXc.jpg?1

 

Reinforcement plates set in position - bought from a guy who is making sets for the 5th gen 5mt+1 transmission. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/alternative-moore-performance-blast-plates-259690.html

Notice how the tail of the transmission isn't dragging on the ground, yeah, I wish I had been able to do it with the jack still in the air.....

http://i.imgur.com/CavHvWM.jpg

Edited May 6, 2017 by Rhitter

[rebourne]

Huge edit, happy I refreshed.

 

Great progress! These things are always so challenging the first time. You're not doing just a clutch change, so it makes sense that you're diy.

 

Keep it up, take a break when it's frustrating.