xt2005bonbon Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I was getting vibration (harmonic) around 3k rpms on deceleration prior to the new map. That's gone with this version. Feels nice and strong now. Huh. That's strange. Why do you think you were getting this vibration? And how would the tune get rid of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Huh. That's strange. Why do you think you were getting this vibration? And how would the tune get rid of it? I had the same issue when I had my car tuned, after a few revisions it went away. It's all in the timing that the tuner is fine tuning. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hero2zero Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I had the same issue when I had my car tuned, after a few revisions it went away. It's all in the timing that the tuner is fine tuning. Had the same problem on a custom tune that I developed and tweaked over time. Didn't realize it was my tune until I flashed Cobb Stage 1 OTS and it went away. Can't help but think something was way wrong with my tune and the potential harm to the motor. This is why I leave it to the pros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I mean I was running a tune designed for my stock UELH + OEM TMIC on my motor with Tomei ELH + GS TMIC. Not really surprised that there was a little noise. It really just felt like I forgot to bolt my DP to transmission and only vibrated on deceleration at 3krpms. Just an interesting side effect of moving to an ELH and not being tuned for it. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 SO, you like it or meh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Meh without a retune. I like the sound better. As soon as I get my tune finished I'll let you know. Really though, I am setting my self up for a larger turbo down the road. Plus, I just like giving money to Cryo almost yearly Edited February 23, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 I can't believe I haven't stumbled across this thread earlier, I guess I never stroll into the 3rd gen outback section . I am really enjoying the steering feel. My steering feel mods are: whiteline LCA inner and outer poly pushing, perrin steering dampener lockdown, and DAMD wheel. Adding the STI rack on top of that was perfect. The steering is a little heavier, but just feels right. This does not feel like a quick rack, it feels like how all Subaru's should come from the factory. I personally love the steering feel, sharp turning and turning radius of my 05 LGT. It's one of the best turning cars I've owned, especially for it's size. With that said, seeing posts like this makes me wonder how it can be even better . Got my Tactrix repaired and flashed Rev 1 of my retune from Cryo on. I was getting vibration (harmonic) around 3k rpms on deceleration prior to the new map. That's gone with this version. Feels nice and strong now. My road I use for etuning isn't flat enough for VD to give good consistent readings. But, moving to an ELH + up-pipe + larger TMIC did not seem to change my boost threshold at all and response feels the same or slightly better. Unfair to report any feelings on the first rev of a retune though. And just because, here is a really short clip of the sound of my car with an ELH, 2- 3rd (sorta) I don't see how a tune would cause those kind of vibrations, I can see a tune causing hesitation issues, that's odd! About the car sound, I think that sounds great, it's not typical 4 cylinder whiny and yet doesn't sound like it's misfiring either. But with that said, I will miss the boxer rumble, that I never had since I still am running the stock exhaust. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Im still not sold that the sound is 100% tune related but possibly situation related, expecially during decel situations. We will know soon enough after a couple revisions. Either way the power from a header is normally broader torque across the entire range once finished. Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Thanks Cryo, I am not sure either. I wonder if it's just because I have no flex joint in my header / up-pipe anymore (pretty sure OEM had one) and so the vibrations are just make it through in a different way. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) Clutch is letting go. I got a FJK1001FW to go in. Now just have to read up on everything it takes to remove the transmission because I am also installing reinforcement plates. Also, need to reboot my drivers side axle while everything is out....long term plan is still 6spd swap. This will just hopefully hold it off for a couple years and allow me to get new wheels this year and maybe do a track day or two. http://i.imgur.com/acQrcd6.jpg Reinforcement plates http://i.imgur.com/BNxdVmk.jpg Edited March 23, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Get it up as high as you can on jackstands, get a harbor freight trans jack, Downpipe and midpipe have to come off. drain trans T70 needed, Undo all the heat shields under the car, undo driveshaft at rear diff and pull out of trans. I undid the ball joints to pull swing the hubs out to pull the front axles out of the trans. Undo all the bellhousing bolts. undo pitch stop and undo trans x-member with trans supported by jack. I found lowering the trans a bit and then putting a 2x4 to keep the engine slightly tilted back from the core support helpful. Then I went up a little bit on the jack and wiggled the whole trans as well as used some metal paint scrapers to do a little bit of prying to separate the engine and trans. As the gap got bigger I then switched to a prybar to help create more separation and made sure to keep it even all the way around. If I think of anything else from when I did my clutch swap I'll let you know. And I don't remember if the 08 has t50+ flywheel bolts but if it does make sure you have a t50+ socket. The method of putting tape on a regular t50 doesn't work. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Since you have a DMF and shouldn't care about glazing the flywheel (since you will get a new SMF one), I would just run it till it gets real bad. For me that was about 2 years from when it started slipping initially. Bigger turbo actually put a bandaid on it for an extra year! Clutch job was actually easy, took me a weekend, those T50+ bolts were a pain (if you don't get it in perfectly and start loosening it it will strip). 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 Since you have a DMF and shouldn't care about glazing the flywheel (since you will get a new SMF one), I would just run it till it gets real bad. For me that was about 2 years from when it started slipping initially. Bigger turbo actually put a bandaid on it for an extra year! Clutch job was actually easy, took me a weekend, those T50+ bolts were a pain (if you don't get it in perfectly and start loosening it it will strip). I actually have a single mass flywheel. This will be my 4th or 5th clutch. One went out at 90k. Had it replaced somewhat under warranty. That clutch started slipping a little in 3rd during stage 2. Engine blew up. Southbend stage 2 daily went in with my resurfaced (from clutch 2) flywheel. I sucked at driving with this clutch and have burned the shit out of it. It was really difficult to find the grab point and I either, juddered like crazy or burned it. Every hill start I ended up burning it to some extant. I finally gave up and used the e-brake on every hill. But, I knew it was too late for this clutch. From 2-5th, this is great. But creeping along in and out of first on a slight incline. NOPE. I choose the Exedy OEM replacement, because A LOT of my driving is stop signs, first gear creeping, etc. I also need to focus a lot more on my driving technique and just become better overall at driving stick. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 So what are you going to do with that single mass flywheel? Is it a wrx one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Rhitter I think your clutch just had issues. I've never driven a manual as difficult as your car was to do. Hopefully your new clutch will be much better for you. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 I fully accept the fact that I probably suck at driving stick too. But I appreciate you giving me the benefit of the doubt . There is a clutch dampener valve in the slave cylinder too. Removing it might help. P I'll probably sell it if it's in good enough shape to be resurfaced. It's already been resurfaced once, and I am not sure how many times you can resurface them and didn't feel like dealing with it. It should be the WRX one. Unsure, it was put in by the dealer when the clutch broke. I covered parts, they covered labor. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigleben Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Hopefully it will be different for you but the only car with a stg1 Exedy clutch I tried (05LGT) the peadl was really hard to press compared to my spec stg2 clutch at that time on my old 06 LGT and current SB stg2 endurance. Don't be sacred tho, YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Yep, that's why I got the OEM replacement clutch. Read bad things about the Exedy stage 1. This is supposedly the stock setup on a WRX, hopefully it can handle stage 2 VF52. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigleben Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Oh great then! Looks like I missed the post saying your final choice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I fully accept the fact that I probably suck at driving stick too. But I appreciate you giving me the benefit of the doubt . There is a clutch dampener valve in the slave cylinder too. Removing it might help. P I'll probably sell it if it's in good enough shape to be resurfaced. It's already been resurfaced once, and I am not sure how many times you can resurface them and didn't feel like dealing with it. It should be the WRX one. Unsure, it was put in by the dealer when the clutch broke. I covered parts, they covered labor. Based on your description, the flywheel will probably be heat damaged, with the rainbow color pattern discoloration. If so, even if there is thickness to resurface, it's junk. The wife and I did that to her Evo's clutch trying to learn how to launch it when she first got it (Well, we waited 1500 miles). That clutch lasted <10k miles, and the flywheel had a beautiful rainbow gun metal blue discoloration to it. Trashed. It's heat cycled and changed the metallurgy on it, or whatever the science is. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 WRX flywheels are a gamble to resurface even once, due to different planes between clutch surface and pressure plate surface. This is why Subaru doesn't even give you tolerances to resurface, they say to replace it (annoying for sure). The pedal feel on my Exedy Stage 1 is definitely stiffer then stock, my friends complain about it being too stiff or springy, but it didn't phase me, I've had diy turbo cars for most of my driving life and they all had stiff clutches (only way to hold power since the discs are so small). I will say I think it's getting softer 2k miles in in though . 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 ^Yeah I actually don't mind the stiffer clutch setup. But it does suck in traffic. After 20mn of stop and go, my left leg begins to hurt . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 How important is getting the car 2 feet off the ground? My jack stands only go to 16 inches? Worth getting new ones? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 You can cheat and put 2x8 or something similar under the jacks. Getting the trans from under the car is where you need it the most. Also you will have to unbolt the rear diff from drive shaft, getting there is tough, you might want to do that first (raise the rear unbolt, lower), then raise the front up. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 @Covert what are your thoughts on the Moore performance blast plates? I already bought them and will install them, but curious what you think about the overall idea of them? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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