Rhitter Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) It was just a normal washer. Just a ****-up when I installed them. Drivers side was fine. Edit: I think I am going to pull a Barmanbean and just part out my car. That's what you do when they sit for awhile right? Edited May 10, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Not according to Boxkita. He buys more that don't work to add to the fleet of parked LGTs in the garage. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 and boxkita's even got a bidding war going on for who gets some of them. just have to wait for the right buyers and timing... * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) Left to do 1. Check transmission oil level (added 3 quarts) 2. Install GS intercooler - would not be a pain but we removed the throttle body hose to make the removal of the starter easier. 3. TIC shifter pivot bushings (in cabin) 4. oil change 5. Sway bar endlinks so close. So far I don't have any extra bolts. I did have one extra washer though. I am assuming there is a washer on either side of the pitch stop mount (if there is, then no extra anything yet). Edited May 11, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Which transmission oil are you using btw? Just changed mine in the 05 with some synpower valvoline 75w90, 60k later which is waaaay too long of an oci. bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 Motul gear 300 75w90. Same stuff I had in before. I have Extra-S in my rear diff though. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 ok. Which oci are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 I have been doing 30k. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) http://i.imgur.com/FEtfaWX.jpg This is a picture of a car that successfully backed out of a garage and drove 3.5 miles up and down a hill. Thoughts on the Exedy OEM replacement for WRX clutch. Holy shit is it light. Really hope it's strong enough...... Thoughts on the front Pink springs. Pretty sure they didn't lower me at all and they feel "right" TO DO: Attach driver side LCA bracket - done Grease the starter gear - done Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks) - done At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly Install TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings - done Install TiC 5MT Lever Pivot Bushings Install TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings - done Install blast plates - done Oil change - engine - done Add oil - transmission (I have 3 quarts hopefully that's enough - done Reboot driver side CV axle - done Clutch slave cylinder dampener delete (once everything is confirmed working) Fix leaking clutch master cylinder (super slow leak Edited May 11, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 is the leak of the master cylinder from replacing the dampener with a bolt and crush washer? or just a leaky MC? * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 Just a leaky MC, has been that way for 3+ years. It's a really slow leak and I usually fill it with break fluid when it gets to "min". I can't figure out where it's leaking from that's how slow it is. We have two dampeners. One at the clutch slave and one at the MC. I am going to try removing the one at the slave first and see if that's enough for me. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 impressive work, well done. Here I am too lazy to grease my front sway bar bushings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 impressive work, well done. Here I am too lazy to grease my front sway bar bushings I am off for awhile on primary caregiver leave. This was a crazy amount of work..... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Good job! So, no shudder when starting in first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) None. I do have 500 to 700 miles of break in now.... Blah, so long. Edit: Installed TiC pivot level bushings. TiC on the left. Ignore the pink fluff. My attempt to stop my radio from rattling. Added slight NVH. My shifter is awesome and notchy and smoother now. Can't wait to break in the clutch so I can shift at redline and really see how it all feels. http://i.imgur.com/WK7K9qx.jpg?1 Edited May 12, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Since changing my clutch I have an oil leak from the passenger side oil seal. Took out the axle to see if I could see any issues. Looked dirty, but nothing folded etc. I have an extra oil seal...for the passenger side, but gently pulling etc didn't cause it to budge. Didn't want to mess with it that much. Cleaned it up and put it back together. If it still leaks I'll actually look into replacing the seal. It takes me about 15 minutes to get the axle out now... http://i.imgur.com/sO5vJ5e.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jmdgqW7.jpg My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 first time 2 days. second time 15 minutes. yup. been there DT. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 ^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Lame. Didn't work. Still leaks. Only leaks once the transmission fluid has warmed up. I am going to pause for a few days. Don't feel like working on my car and don't have all the tools to make this an easy job, luckily I don't need it yet. Ordered the oil seal installer from SGT.gator and need to get an oil seal puller to make it easy. Clutch is starting to feel really good. This will be an excellent stop and go traffic clutch. No idea if it's a good stage 2 WRX clutch though..... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Patiently waiting to find out. Mine's still holding if we stay out of the boost. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Oil seals have a certain amount of axles removals in them, or x amount of time. I've had axle seals leak on 2nd re-installation but 2 years after initial install. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Interesting, it seems to have stopped leaking. I cleaned it up a bunch and no oil. Either the seal is good again or I am running my transmission dry (have to remove the GS intercooler to check t-oil) Added a rear strut bar. I am embarrassed to post this picture because of how dirty the back of my car is. Initial thoughts, doesn't make nearly as big a difference in feel as the FSB, but that could be because I have a lot of OEM bushings and endlinks in the back of the car. It does make a small difference though, only tested it up to 40. http://i.imgur.com/0FiKiUH.jpg The floor pan Styrofoam needs to be cut to get it to fit right. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/4rwAAOSwbwlXAxym/s-l500.jpg My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Any reason you picked beatrush instead of whiteline/cusco? Cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I got it for how close it sits to the floor pan. A lot of the others I saw you had to cut out holes and they go up above the floor. This (once the Styrofoam is cut) should be level. Also, JDM yo. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) Replaced OEM endlinks with MOOGs. They look exactly the same. Makes me wonder if I had MOOGs on already... I guess the joint is slightly stiffer on the new ones. I have had these at least since 2014, so might as well install them. I hate rear endlinks. Angles just suck. Should have removed the wheels to get them off. http://i.imgur.com/QoAr2Cn.jpg Edited May 24, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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