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I only added that because it’s nice to think about. Mods like that won’t be happening until I have a second car alway available. It’s often said that it doesn’t take that much to get to 300hp with the ej25. But I’ve found that there is a Subaru echo chamber that pushes a myth of easy power and reliability (to a point). But I can’t think of anything easier then an intercooler and downpipe upgrade to add close to 100 crank horse over stock and 350 at the wheels relative to the Subaru world. I honestly didn’t know that there was anything analgous to the legacy/outback wagon.

The Volvo mod drives like a crown vic that’s been given a sport suspension. She’s big compared to the outback. The power is like stage 1, and actually is faster above 75 then the outback at similar power levels. The comfort is lovely. The auto is nice for dailying. The engine sounds very cool given it’s a inline 5 cylinder. It’s the nicest car I’ve owned. I have no desire to mod it up. I might do a manual swap someday though, honestly that’s about all it needs to feel like a stage 1 spec b wagon. And a 6mt manual swap is cheaper then for Subaru! I love that I love it for what it is. I love that it doesn’t consume me like the outback did. It’s not an escape wagon, it’s a dad wagon. Its already low enough. The suspension has three settings from comfort to teeth rattle so no need to mess with that. If I upgrade the intercooler and downpipe I can get 350+ to the wheels on pump if I ever go insane again. The steering wheel reminds me of the damd wheel. It’s quiet which I wanted my outback to be again. I don’t have to warm it up to drive, I can put any gas in I want. At 39 it feels like it’s appropriate for where I’m at. It feels like release from a bad dream.

Added a euro body kit.

Your comment has eased my letting go a lot. Thanks for sharing it.

If there are enough buyers in CA, I’ll deliver in March. Even if it’s just the tranny.

After listing all the parts I’m sad and proud at the same time.

And we have a part out thread. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mn-co-2006-outback-xt-full-partout-277046.html?p=5859188

Want to buy my 6758? I’ve been wanting to drop a 7163 in anyway. 440 at 26psi on corn.

I got some fresh ready to drop your wagon bilstein b8s plus Swift’s in buy and sell. I’d run them in winter but a $1300 winter suspension set up seems a bit much when my outback Kybs are fresh and probably better for it. Would prefer to be somewhere between legacy and outback height though for winter. There are some rallitek 1” lifts I’m thinking about pairing with the outback kybs. Just posting this this though will mean they’ll be sold by tomorrow though.

Check your grounds. Check your vacuum lines. Check your fuel lines. Reset ecu learning. Call a Subaru tuning shop.

You need the 5mt neutral safety switch and 5mt reverse sensor. I don’t know part numbers. They screw into the trans.

That would be your neutral safety switch and reverse sensor. You’ll need to swap those from your 5mt into the 6mt. Both are on top of the 6mt and are not not fun to get to. I had to raise the engine from the header and lower the trans to give me enough room to swap them. If you are doing this on a legacy you may not have enough room to lower the trans safely. One if not one option is to loosen the motor mounts to tilt it back. I’ve not done this and you should confirm this is a reasonable and safe route.

Sounds right. Sounds like I'll have to use the yellow if I want anything meaninful read. I am totally going the btSsm route now and I plan to input AFR, Oil Temp, and Oil Pressure, through rear o2, tgv left and tgv right. I just need to know if rear o2 is noisy if all you are doing is sending the 0-5 volt signal to it. I will most likely wire at the ecu and that would be easiest for me. As for oil temp and oil pressure I would like to input at tgv left and right. I am going to make another thread about it though.

::I've been updating this post as I research further:: I guess what I meant was wiring one of the outputs to the ecu which is what I’ll most likely do now, won’t interfere with my tuner logging with Cobb atr software? He won’t want to mess with spreadsheet formulas and typically inputs the wideband via usb. My LC-2 has two analog outputs “The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR” If the rear o2 is a low voltage input, is it possible to connect the brown to this and get accurate readings without a formula? I’m guessing not. If I can connect the yellow to the ecu tgv, will this prohibit me from Installing an aftermarket afr gauge down the line? Maybe instead of getting aftermarket gauges I just get an android device, and eventually monitor boost, afr, oil temp, and oil pressure through btssm? This sounds like the best option over all. Maybe I can log this way too? Looking at a refurbished nexus 7.... seems cheap enough and all it will do is this. Maybe connect to my phone and do maps. Ok.... Getting excited about BtSsm. "A recent Beta addition to BtSsm is the ability to reference some external sensors via a USB connection. The list of supported sensors is still short: Innovate LC2 / MTX-L AFR sensors, and AEM UEGO AFR sensor. The physical connection is like this: External sensor serial output -> RS232-to-USB converter -> OTG converter -> Android device" So I could just plug the wideband direct into the tablet using usb. My end goal would be to monitor AFR, boost, oil temp, oil pressure, post intercooler IAT, and fuel pressure via BtSsm. Looks like the AFR is easy enough. I'm running Speed density so I'm sure there's a formula to figure out boost from the map sensor. Oil pressure and Oil temp will require sending units as well as sensors im certain. getting those signals to BtSsm though might be tough. If I route the AFR direct to usb, oil pressure through the tgv and oil temp through rear o2 that might just do it unless that btsense module is released already. I may have to start a new thread, but I am super excited about these possibilities with Btssm. I've always been intimidated by the electrical aspects of it, but Im dumb enough to make mistakes and learn. Damn it looks like I can do everything I want! The hard part is just figuring out how janky I want the wiring to be. And if I can use both TGV left and right as seperate inputs then I have even more I can do! I'm so excited. $40 dollars for a tablet is SOOO much cheaper then $150+ per vei dual gauge.

Noisy because of the input or noisy because you are drawing power from rear o2? I’d want a clean signal and will probably just to the tgv. Also, would I just run seperate wire from the 0-5 volt analog out to the tgv so my tuner can still tune with a laptop, but I log using the ap? It looks like my wideband is already wired up for power and ground. It lives in my center console. It would be easiest to run a wire from there to the rear o2 through the lower shifter boot.

Tuning alliance was somehow able to make it work from the rear with just a cable.

Is there any reason why the TGV input would be more preferable then the rear 02 input? Would I not be able to get my power and ground straight from the rear 02 input? In my head it seems the rear 02 would be easier to plug right into or splice right into then finding different sources for ground and power? Sorry to bump and old thread.

Is there any reason why the TGV input would be more preferable then the rear 02 input? Would I not be able to get my power and ground straight from the rear 02 input? In my head it seems the rear 02 would be easier to plug right into or splice right into then finding different sources for ground and power? Sorry to bump and old thread.

Rear diff is fine Thank goodness. So, I got 80% of the way through this battle and am just remembering I have to do Something about the nss. The driveshafts not in yet, I have to sand down the input shaft to get rid of some surface rust. I think now might be a good time to take care of this nss business. So there’s one in the 6mt that has to be removed and replaced with the external one in the 5mt? Is that correct? And the 6mt nss is located in the top middle of the trans? And then I need to get a 6mt reverse switch from somewhere also is that correct? Then that plugs into somewhere in place of something else? I searched nss in the threads but there’s no eli5 instructions and right now I have the mental capacity of a 5 year old. This migh be due to the fact that the rear diff mount fell in my forehead while laying under the car. Thankfully it wasn’t the rear diff. More gotchas, the shift stay rod uses a different bolt the 5mt. The shift fork I installed after the trans was in didn’t give me enough clearance to use a bolt so I got a threaded dowel and two nuts and made do with just enough room for that. Oh, and I used a Single eyelet bracket from on top the trans that I had to remove for clearance to make a reverse lockout cable bracket that didn’t come with the trans. There are only handful left in the country but my hammer and dremel made do.

Cross posting from another thread but my post feels more relevant here. Well, Well..... Well. Continuing the spec b trans swap and.... Spent most of the day running around town grabbing stupid things I need. Mostly cause I was sore and tired from yesterday and because it seemed like a good day for it. Got the axles removed this evening and everything was ready to drop the 5mt. With a couple hours left I thought I'd wait on dropping the 5mt and I'd go ahead put the spec b diff and axles in just like you suggested. Axles went in fine and I started to jack the diff up and I fought getting the diff in for an hour. Couldn't figure out why it was so hard to align the studs and rear diff mount into the frame bracket whatever. Then I'm staring at the rear diff mount and I notice its not exactly centered on the diff. Hmmmm..... I did notice scraping on the bottom of the mount earlier but didn't really think twice about it, though I should have. Well... The spec b rear diff mount I have is crooked on the rear diff. Then I start looking more closely at everything and the passenger side retaining plate is missing all the bolts on it that I could see and with the wrestling I was doing it was starting to separate from the diff a little. The drivers side has all the bolts on the side retainer plate. Questions I now I ask myself. Granted I purchased this swap from a yard in a Omaha and had it shipped to me. I am in Minnesota. Is the rear diff broke from an accident and thats why its crooked? Is it broke and thats why the side plate retainer bolts are missing? Why would those bolts be missing even if it was broke?!?!?! Is the trans maybe broke from this speculative accident? Is it possible the rear diff is fine and I just need to bend some studs back and reseat it on the mount? If the rear diff is fine do I need to have it set for backlash and preload by a professional? How can I tell if the rear diff, and for that matter the trans is fine or not? Can I just take the bolts off the side plate on my outback rear diff and reuse on the spec b rear diff? If the rear diff is broke, but not the trans what's the cheapest way to get a replacement? Oh these questions are fun ones. And upon discovering their entertainment value I decided to call it a night and quest for my answers in the morning. Upon further research it looks like the 05/06 sti rear diff is the correctly geared r180 for my 08 spec b trans correct? So if my rear diff is broke I would need the 05/06 sti rear diff and an adapter for the drive shaft? I can get my money back on the rear diff because I am within 90 days and so its just a matter of finding a 05/06 rear diff which I think I found one. Some guys on nasioc just drilled new holes into the flange to make it work so I could do something stupid like that.

Yeah, wifey gonna close those legs if you open dat hood.

I have a spec b drive shaft I’m gonna try to use to swap into my outback xt. My understanding is it will be a touch short but still work. In regards to the slave cylinder, can I use any pull style slave cylinder or only the two part numbers listed in the first post? On eBay there are lots of sti space cylinders for sale but none match the part numbers in the first post. I’m also planning to use my stock master cylinder.

Are you just wanting the flsd?

I need similar rust work.

Nice lowered outback!