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I was gonna get a set when Max Capacity told me about it, then I saw the $400 tag and said I have $1k worth of welding equipment, let me just make one, but due to limited time I could have the car down I decided to research the heck out of them first.

 

The short answer is: There is no proof that they will help at all, people still broke trans with them on other forums.

 

The longer answer: The issue with our transmissions is a clam shell design instead of a single cast piece. There are bolts that go through the transmission and secure the two clam shells together. Since the blast plates secure to the clam shell parallel to the shell it self all they are really doing is reinforcing the 4 mounting bolts. Thinking about it though, they might reduce the up and down expansion and flex of the transmission and maybe they are good enough for that reason alone, but when it costs 1/2 of a transmission it's hard to justify.

 

The overkill design would be having the reinforcement plates secure to the transmission perpendicular to the clam shells too making a wrap around clam shell. Basically you would bolt it on the sides and top and bottom portion would bolt to the side plates (you heard it here first, patent pending ;)!)

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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That's true too. Now I was actually against them until yesterday, until I wrote that post. I realized that they might help with up and down expansion (since steel expands at different speeds then aluminum), which could lead to less room for gears to move around thus reducing the chances of sheered gears.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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The pedal feel on my Exedy Stage 1 is definitely stiffer then stock, my friends complain about it being too stiff or springy, but it didn't phase me, I've had diy turbo cars for most of my driving life and they all had stiff clutches (only way to hold power since the discs are so small). I will say I think it's getting softer 2k miles in in though :).

 

 

Did you research the hell out of the Exedy STG1 also? How long do they last?

 

Have you had it in bumper to bumper? Can you creep with it?

 

With these cars and the clutches I am frustrated by the hugely different experiences we hear about aftermarket clutches. For every person that loves a certain clutch, there is another user that got 15k out of it, can't slip it, or just hates it.

 

I'm slipping at anything more than half throttle on boost, so I'll be in the market soon, but other than something like an OEM disk from the VF52 WRXs, it seems like anything else that is driveable in epic-ally bad traffic is junk.

Edited by rebourne
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Did you research the hell out of the Exedy STG1 also? How long do they last?

 

Have you had it in bumper to bumper? Can you creep with it?

 

With these cars and the clutches I am frustrated by the hugely different peoples experiences are with aftermarket clutches.

 

I'm slipping at anything more than half throttle on boost, so I'll be in the market soon, but other than something like an OEM disk from the VF52 WRXs, it seems like anything else that is driveable in epic-ally bad traffic is junk.

 

I will admit I did not research the hell out of the Exedy Stage 1 kit. I used my past experiences go with it: since Exedy is Dakim = OEM Nissan manufacturer when I turboed my old Sentra I used an Exedy Stage 1 (was also the cheaper option). I'm also running a 350z 250mm Exedy Stage 1 on my turbo G20 right now, which does have a much softer pedal feel (clutch delay valves/dampers bypassed too)

 

Looking at the clamp load pound, they are fairly similar.

Legacy GT Exedy Stage 1: 2383lbs

350z Exedy Stage 1: 2271lbs

 

About traffic driving: I've done some minimal traffic driving and I didn't mind it at all. First 1k miles was rough, it was very on or off, but now it actually feels fine (even wife hasn't complained yet).

 

If my clutch starts slipping I'm going to blame the flywheel first. The previous owner of flywheel claimed only 30k miles and never launched it. Hot spots say otherwise :mad:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Clutch/20161218_134809.jpg~original

 

not that you need company, but i feel the same way Rebourne. granted, my clutch holds, but i do have a noisy throwout when it's cold out. for like 2 years now. on borrowed time.

 

I noticed my exedy TOB is singing every now and then, should have bought an oem one. :spin:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I got the plates for $300 from a user here (he is making them for the 5th gen). http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/alternative-moore-performance-blast-plates-259690.html

 

Good to know about the TOB, I guess I'll order OEM. I figured because Exedy was OEM it should be fine.

Edited by Rhitter
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Haven't decided yet. My understanding is that it's only needed if the snout is damaged. I don't think my snout is. At least in the two times I have had my clutch changed (Dealer and Infamous Performance), no one really remarked on it.

 

Still need to look into it more. Although, my TOB is only 2 years old and already squealing on cold starts, so maybe I should replace it with the TSK3 kit anyway.

 

not that you need company, but i feel the same way Rebourne. granted, my clutch holds, but i do have a noisy throwout when it's cold out. for like 2 years now. on borrowed time.

 

Barmanbean mostly did a 6spd swap because he was so tired of the 5mt clutch options with this car and the experience varying so wildly. Unfortunately (for me), so much of my driving is stop and go traffic that whatever I get needs to be good at that first. So, that's hopefully OEM replacement Exedy being great, while I save for a 6mt swap.

 

Oh, I also have to buy my wife (and me and 5 month old) some SUV. I made the mistake of watching crash tests. So, now I need to get a new SUV too. Oh, and 6-7 passenger because my dogs take up so much room. So far the Hyundai Sante Fe is high on my list (still $32k+ tax).

Edited by Rhitter
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Me too. My drive home is about 19mph average. And that's on the freeway. There is much stopping, and creeping a few feet at a time. Morning's aren't nearly as bad.

 

Instead of dropping $6k on a 6MT , I'll have to choose sticking with an OEM clutch and having some power pulled out of my tune between 3 and 4.5k. I'd rather have an OEM clutch last me 30k miles, than a clutch I hate.

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Haven't decided yet. My understanding is that it's only needed if the snout is damaged.

 

I installed one on my car 30k ago for peace of mind while a shop was refreshing the heads on the 05. I should have changed the clutch then, but was having a baby right around that time...

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I wouldn't use the TSK3 kit if your snout is still good, it sounds like TSK3 bearings are not necessarily the best. I'm still convinced that most of our bearing issues are related to crappy OEM grounds. I regrounded the car a long time ago and replaced 3 wheel bearings, so so good!

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Not sure I understand this statement.

 

This one caught me by surprise too, but made complete sense after reading how destructive electricity is. Basically with bad grounds everytime the ball bearing rolls there is an arch that happens from the bearing to the housing, this heats up the lubricant and makes it leak away causing more destruction.

 

My 04 FXT showed signs of bad ground wheel bearing damage. I should have taken my 05 LGT bearings apart as I replaced them, but it all being one piece made me not care enough

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/04%20FXT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearings/Rear/CIMG0349.jpg

 

I posted a more detailed thread about it a couple years back: Bad Grounds Can Lead to Wheel Bearing Failure

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Installing the Tomei header means I lost a ground to the frame rail connection (OEM has header heat shield to to frame rail). Looks like I need to add that to the list of things I should do.

 

Looks like I have a decent amount to do:

 

1. Order OEM TOB

2. Get taller jack stands (I think I just need two for the front of the car)

3. Remove dampener or replace with 05 clutch slave cylinder (for more consistent clutch engagement feel)

4. Improve grounds (found a couple walkthroughs here on it)

5. Reboot driver side axle

6. Replace clutch / flywheel.

 

My clutch has actually felt a little better since it became a giant smoky mess for 2 gear shifts. Although the engagement point is a lot higher and the TOB squeals on cold starts...so I am on some amount of borrowed time.

Edited by Rhitter
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Sorry man, just giving you a ton more work to do :-).

 

I will say my clutch damper is still leaking, I haven't had to remove my IC to replace the O-ring. I'm not sure why my new copper washer is not happy at sealing :(. Just keep that in mind as you muck with your stuff.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Sorry man, just giving you a ton more work to do :-).

 

I will say my clutch damper is still leaking, I haven't had to remove my IC to replace the O-ring. I'm not sure why my new copper washer is not happy at sealing :(. Just keep that in mind as you muck with your stuff.

 

My clutch dampener on my master cylinder has had a really slow leak for years now. However, I have a delay valve also built into the slave cylinder, I think that one is more responsible for the "where is the engagement" feeling.

 

I had a 2002 Mustang, that clutch was super easy to modulate compared to this (and it was a more difficult clutch....). Also, helped that I could just dump the clutch and leave in a cloud of glorious smoke.

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wow, good find and well written walkthrough. i might do this just to do it for a future clutch, and to flush the fluid. and it does look really simple. (famous last words... :lol:)

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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yeah thanks. did not know about that. That may be why I've been hating the engagement point on the 05.

 

Supposedly, you don't have it. The 06+ has two delay valves. One in the Master Cylinder - deleted here http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5568939&postcount=825

 

And one in the Slave, which doesn't look like it's in the 05

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5586858&postcount=858

Edited by Rhitter
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Then, what I am experiencing is this piece of crap dual mass flywheel or something then :mad:. Can't wait to get rid of it.

 

You still have the DMFW? You need to get rid of that, it's a piece of junk! Night and day difference with the SMFW.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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