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I bet they were Moogs then because the oem links should have thinner bars and 4 raised little bumps on the back of ends

 

http://sixstarbernie.com/images/T142813321.jpg

Edited by I3eXa
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no zerk fittings?

 

You don't need zerk fittings on the end links, they are already sealed. Maybe for the poly sway bar bushings for when they start to squeak.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Huh, these are Raybestos, bought them in 2014. But, the links on there are for sure not OEM. Oh well, wasted 45 minutes taking off good sway bar endlinks for the same swaybar endlinks.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QV6M90/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

$7 cheaper each than when I bought them though.

 

I bought one of these when my front swaybar endlinks were pissing me off (squeaking) , it has a zerk fitting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M2MHHI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Although tightening my Kartboys fixed it. So they get to stay so far.

 

You don't need zerk fittings on the end links, they are already sealed. Maybe for the poly sway bar bushings for when they start to squeak.

 

Whiteline greaseless bushings have been the best thing to happen for sway bar squeaks. Nothing stopped it until I mounted them up.

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Some Moogs have zerks (those are called problem solvers, IMO they create more problems cause they want you to grease them every oil change).

 

Moogs for the front of the car have zerks, while Moogs for the rear are the sealed versions.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Some Moogs have zerks (those are called problem solvers, IMO they create more problems cause they want you to grease them every oil change).

 

Moogs for the front of the car have zerks, while Moogs for the rear are the sealed versions.

my moogs are zerked front and rear. which is why when Rhitter called them "moogs" that i was surprised there weren't zerks.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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Just looked it up on rock auto and indeed the only rear MOOG is K750023 and is greaseable. Now the Moogs I installed on my 04 FXT were definitely not greaseable, just looked them up and that part number is K750041 and is not greaseable.

 

So if they are Moogs, they might be WRX/FXT ones.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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  • 2 weeks later...

Searching craigslist saw a post for wheels 18x9 et 40 255/40/18 tires. Which is pretty damn close to exactly what I had been looking for. Had not looked at Volks before (they are so pricey). Looked at pictures of the Ze40s and they were amazing. Lucked out and I got them for basically what I wanted to spend on wheels+tires.

 

Sort of cleaned up.

http://i.imgur.com/tOYAkjA.jpg

 

in the shade

http://i.imgur.com/JkWVYbv.jpg

 

Meat. (glove for scale)

http://i.imgur.com/ziJzawL.jpg

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The box was $400. Retails $499, bought it during an REI 20% off sale. It's the Yakima Skybox 16. I like it a lot, I can get it on an off on my own pretty easily.

 

I got a kayak hoist so that it is easy to remove and store in my garage above the garage door (when it's open). It was less than $30.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EUL2DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SQ1nzbSMN7WMT

 

Sweet find on the wheels!

Edited by WRX USA
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I am running Bilstein HDs which I think have a slightly higher spring perch than LGT struts.

They fit.

 

They actually give me more clearance than my 225/55/17. Because the Dunlop Wintersport 3ds I have are like the widest 225s ever....

 

I got a kayak hoist so that it is easy to remove and store in my garage above the garage door (when it's open). It was less than $30.

 

I actually have that kit from Amazon, but my garage is pretty low and where I drive in and where I would hang the box is sort of in the same place. Would interfere when I need to raise the car up. still working on placement.

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Found them on Craigslist. Owned by a guy who ran them for a year (and some how managed to never scratch them at all before he money shifted his WRX and blew it up. He said they were owned by Mert at RBMS who only had him on his car for a single BAM.

 

My wife looked at them and said "I'm sorry there is no way you will keep them look it this nice." then she started inspecting them to see exactly what the curb rash would look like.

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Beginning my make the outback flares rear flares adventure:

video on fender rolling that's really good

 

My guide -from http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5337565&postcount=38

http://i.imgur.com/qP0pps0.png

 

My hacking (dremel sort of melt cuts this). There are 4 tabs that will get in the way of my rolling / pulling. Three are connected by pop-clips, one is just sort of sitting there down by the bumper. I am not sure I need to go back any farther (only get rubbing in the front), but there is one tab about 2 inches back from where I cut that I'll remove.

http://i.imgur.com/JcQwoU3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6y2pPeY.jpg

Edited by Rhitter
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Yep, I think I have seen at least one car with them pictures weren't great though. The problem is the how the flares interface with the lower doors. Would need some paint / bond / shaping or just have to run the lower plastic parts on the doors.
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Yep, I think I have seen at least one car with them pictures weren't great though. The problem is the how the flares interface with the lower doors. Would need some paint / bond / shaping or just have to run the lower plastic parts on the doors.

don't forget that the front and rear bumpers are different to blend with the flares.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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I was not able to take good pictures (only have about 30 minutes at a time, because someone's naps are shitty today).

 

I realize I haven't really seen what's under the Outback flares. They are pretty easy to pull off.

Just a bunch of push clips and failed foam

http://i.imgur.com/eLFsnoA.jpg

 

The bottom three clips need to come off and I trimmed the bumper spacer (front right) because I think I am getting some rub there. Once my Caster bushings are adjusted appropriately I might get some clearance.

http://i.imgur.com/w6hpR1O.jpg

 

The clips are held down with double sided tape that is somewhat rotten, used a screwdriver and my hands to pry the plastic parts up and then tin snips to cut them off.

http://i.imgur.com/BCPzdLb.jpg

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