Rhitter's Build Thread

[fahr_side]

I am wondering if I forgot to say "as much caster as possible" so they defaulted to OEM specs.

 

Thanks for catching that. I'll have to get it fixed sometime this summer

 

 

This model has a lot more caster as stock than previous Legacy or Impreza models, so is not severely caster-limited. More caster is more load on the power steering... my original PS pump died shortly after fitting adjustable LCA bushings and setting them to the maximum for both camber and caster.

 

If possible, I'd add camber adjustment range without changing caster too much. Any significant increase in caster should be supported by a proper PS fluid cooler.

[covertrussian]

This model has a lot more caster as stock than previous Legacy or Impreza models, so is not severely caster-limited. More caster is more load on the power steering... my original PS pump died shortly after fitting adjustable LCA bushings and setting them to the maximum for both camber and caster.

 

If possible, I'd add camber adjustment range without changing caster too much. Any significant increase in caster should be supported by a proper PS fluid cooler.

 

It's part of the reason these cars handle so damn good out of the box. I'm running about -1* of camber on stock suspension and the car handles and rotates so well (much better then my FWD autocross car). Caster really helps cancel out our high KPI's and gain a good amount of negative camber on outside wheel.

 

The other big downside of caster is torque steer, but thanks to AWD and symmetrical axles we don't have that problem (I believe Evo's do). To put it to perspective 6* of caster is nothing compared to what RWD guys run, they are well into 10* usually.

 

I've been on the Whiteline +0.5* caster bushings for 2 years without a problem, it is a daily and doesn't get autocrossed, so maybe that's why?

 

Just curious, how did you increase the LCA bushings for max caster and camber? Increasing caster actually slightly decreases static negative camber. If we had adjustable forward LCA bushings (like Miata's do), then adding negative camber that way would cancel out most of the caster addition.

[xt2005bonbon]

Good job man. You must have freaked out when the trans fell .

[Rhitter]

Luckily the trans was light. I was more annoyed by the oil that went everywhere. I didn't drain it first because I thought I could keep it level enough that it would be a big deal. I was wrong.

 

Nothing as exciting today. Just cleaned up and installed the TIC shift linkage bushings (http://turninconcepts.com/tic-06-subaru-shift-linkage-bushings.html)

 

Cleaned + garage and oil spill so it stopped smelling as much like death.

http://i.imgur.com/zfxA572.jpg

Use a punch (1/4in to actually get it out, larger to hammer it flush to start) and beat the hell out of the roll pin.

http://i.imgur.com/cVB05sX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/67V3s69.jpg

Success! + tools

http://i.imgur.com/LP7USeY.jpg

 

Using my hands and a flathead screw driver I was able to get the old bushings / metal rods out. Reinstalled with new bushings and pushed tight. I used a vice gently to make sure they were seated securely. Removed all slop when I put them back on and torqued it down. they are super stiff. Might make shifting harder...

http://i.imgur.com/Y735eUr.jpg

 

Also torqued down the blast plates.

old Flywheel (dirty)

http://i.imgur.com/CZS767Q.jpg

Cold side of clutch

http://i.imgur.com/76XuJ4i.jpg

 

Flywheel has Torx 50+ bolts . I have the socket, but the flywheel spins (duh) when I try and loosen them. I guess I need to wedge something somewhere.

 

TO DO:

Attach driver side LCA bracket - done

Grease the starter gear

Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks)

At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly

Install TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings - done

Install TiC 5MT Lever Pivot Bushings - will do once everything is back together. This is done in the cabin

Install TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings

Install blast plates - done

Oil change - engine

Add oil - transmission (I have 3 quarts hopefully that's enough)

Edited May 6, 2017 by Rhitter

[xt2005bonbon]

did you notice that there is a small pin inside the larger roll pin? you are supposed to push that one first and then the larger one. For the install, larger one goes first, then small one.

 

man your clutch disk looks worn out. How many miles on it?

[Rhitter]

That makes more sense. I ignored the smaller pin and followed TICs instructions to just beat it to hell. Seemed to work.

 

20k miles

[covertrussian]

Got a link to those shifter u joint bushings?

 

Eww on your flywheel having Torx bolts, what the crap! The way I held my crank is, a long as breaker bar on the crank pulley up front, just make sure it doesn't loosen the crank pulley .

[Rhitter]

All the TiC bushings I got:

http://turninconcepts.com/tic-tranny-crossmember-bushings.html

http://turninconcepts.com/tic-06-subaru-shift-linkage-bushings.html

http://turninconcepts.com/tic-5mt-lever-pivot-bushings-wide-837.html

[xt2005bonbon]

That makes more sense. I ignored the smaller pin and followed TICs instructions to just beat it to hell. Seemed to work.

 

20k miles

 

yeah. I think the optimum way to push that pin out would be to use some kind of roll pin remover. I just don't like doing all this beating on that shifter rod. Can't be good for it.

 

 

 

20k!!! Come on man

[rhino6303]

 

Flywheel has Torx 50+ bolts . I have the socket, but the flywheel spins (duh) when I try and loosen them. I guess I need to wedge something somewhere.

 

 

To loosen the flywheel bolts, you can easily create a tool to hold the flywheel.

 

Take a flat piece of aluminum/steel or any piece of metal. Drill a hole large enough to set over the stud that is on the lower side of the engine and another hole the correct size and placement for the pressure plate bolt.

 

Thread a bolt into the flywheel through the plate (it doesn't have to be tight) and set the other side of the plate over the stud.

Edited May 7, 2017 by rhino6303

[Rhitter]

To loosen the flywheel bolts, you can easily create a tool to hold the flywheel.

 

Take a flat piece of aluminum/steel or any piece of metal. Drill a hole large enough to set over the stud that is on the lower side of the engine and another hole the correct size and placement for the pressure plate bolt.

 

Thread a bolt into the flywheel through the plate (it doesn't have to be tight) and set the other side of the plate over the stud.

 

Electrical outlet cover. Just had to drill out the larger hole. Fits perfectly. I think I am going to market these and sell them as flywheel removal tools.

 

http://i.imgur.com/NAoKbiB.jpg

 

******* torx bolt - tried to strip on me, but I got it. Large breaker bar made it sort of easy.

http://i.imgur.com/WjpP58N.png

 

Flywheel off

http://i.imgur.com/GNXinzI.png

Edited May 7, 2017 by Rhitter

[xt2005bonbon]

That's a great tip.

 

Can't see some of the pics.

[Rhitter]

Installed TIC transmission cross-member bushings. Bolted this loosely back to the car and had to use a breaker bar on the some of the bolts. On tight and a decent amount of rust. I had sprayed it the night before with aero-kil

http://i.imgur.com/A2jccPR.jpg

 

Back uses the thinner spacer to make up the extra distance (OEM bushing is larger)

http://i.imgur.com/TPeCSwO.jpg

[Rhitter]

20k!!! Come on man

 

I have had to fight this clutch (Southbend stage 2 daily) on hill starts and sometimes from stop lights to get it to not judder a lot. Usually this involves excessive throttle. I tried for like a year to figure out hill starts with it and I finally just settled on using the e-brake for every hill start. Otherwise I would frequently just burn it. I am also not the greatest with clutches. I think the OEM one that was pulled at 30k miles was about half used up. So on track to get about 60k out of an OEM clutch. Hoping I get more miles out of this Exedy clutch. Next clutch will probably be part of a 6 speed swap.

 

Got the transmission installed. It took Th3Franz and I about 2 hours to get it back in. Crazy difficult, to, oh it's connected now in 10 minutes. We had to loosen the turbo to up-pipe bolts because it was making contact with the transmission bell housing (VF52) and causing alignment issues. Once we did that it was "easy" to get it aligned properly, but would still not go in. We rotated the clutch / crankshaft / flywheel and then it slide in. The snout splines were just off I guess.

 

Unsure it would have been possible without two people. I am amazed that mechanics can do this in an afternoon. So much left to install.

 

 

TO DO:

Attach driver side LCA bracket - done

Grease the starter gear - done

Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks)

At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly

Install TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings - done

Install TiC 5MT Lever Pivot Bushings

Install TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings - done

Install blast plates - done

Oil change - engine

Add oil - transmission (I have 3 quarts hopefully that's enough

Reboot driver side CV axle

Clutch slave cylinder dampener delete (once everything is confirmed working)

Fix leaking clutch master cylinder (super slow leak)

 

Edit: as soon as I install the lever pivot bushings, I don't think I will have one OEM bushing left in the front of my car.

Edited May 8, 2017 by Rhitter

[covertrussian]

I had the same fun with my 16G turbo, bell housing was getting caught on the turbo. Took about 2 hours to get it in place too.

[xt2005bonbon]

Not looking forward to doing this then...

[Flinkly]

not that i need or will be buying a clutch today, but it's killing me to find out how the clutch feels. granted, it's more important to know how it is 2k miles from now.

 

hurry up!

 

but don't drop any giant pieces of metal again in your rush to connect all the little parts back up...

 

[Rhitter]

I need to reboot my CV axle, boo. Hate doing that. Also, trying to decide if I want to put in front pink springs now.

 

But, I need to figure out if that will just give me more camber (or if it will mess with the total alignment). If I can install the front springs without getting an alignment, I'll probably do it now.

 

I ordered the KTA 124 kit so eventually I will need another alignment (continuing my trend of yearly alignments).

Edited May 9, 2017 by Rhitter

[Rhitter]

Supposedly:

OEM spring rates F 3.5 kg/mm R 5.5 kg/mm (source some random post I found)

 

Pink spring rates F 3.9 kg/mm R 6.0 kg/mm (source Japanparts)

 

King KSRS-29 (20-30% stiffer than stock) guessing R progressive 6. -7.1 kg/mm

 

All this to say they should pair fine with front Pink springs (as long as the Pink springs don't lower it too much).

[xt2005bonbon]

I need to reboot my CV axle, boo. Hate doing that.

 

Come on. It's not that bad . But yeah, it certainly does not feel like you are modding your car, that's for sure.

[Rhitter]

Come on. It's not that bad . But yeah, it certainly does not feel like you are modding your car, that's for sure.

 

I am going to basically do it this way. I see my problem. Last time I was so concerned with cleaning the old parts. I think I went through a can of brake cleaner. Don't really need to do that. Especially because my driver side boot isn't split. It's just leaking / getting gummy.

 

 

@Flinky, nothing large and metal left to drop on me

[xt2005bonbon]

I am going to basically do it this way. I see my problem. Last time I was so concerned with cleaning the old parts. I think I went through a can of brake cleaner. Don't really need to do that. Especially because my driver side boot isn't split. It's just leaking / getting gummy.

 

Well, then carefully inspect if it is not just an issue of loose clamps. I had that on one car. What I did was to simply cut off the old clamps, push the boot a bit where I used a cheap syringe to 'inject' additional fresh grease, and then I put new clamps on the boots. 20k later, still all good.

 

 

And yeah, when I reinstall a fresh boot, I usually just use a rag or something to clean up the parts. Nothing fancy.

[Rhitter]

I guess I was just being lazy. It took me longer to get the new boot on the cup (because I didn't notice the grooves for awhile) then it took me to remove and clean up everything. It's all basically off anyway. Left the axle nut connected.

 

This to do list is just random things I don't want to forget. It does not reflect my current progress.

 

TO DO:

Attach driver side LCA bracket - done

Grease the starter gear - done

Sway bar to frame (removed to remove tension to endlinks)

At some point get my caster bushings adjusted properly

Install TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings - done

Install TiC 5MT Lever Pivot Bushings

Install TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings - done

Install blast plates - done

Oil change - engine

Add oil - transmission (I have 3 quarts hopefully that's enough

Reboot driver side CV axle - done

Clutch slave cylinder dampener delete (once everything is confirmed working)

Fix leaking clutch master cylinder (super slow leak)

 

My simple, I'll just pop off the front strut and see what it all looks like. Is not even as close to as simple as I thought. Pretty sure the lower bolts for the strut were tightened by a robot that only had one setting (really ******* tight). I think I only have myself to thank for that.

Edited May 10, 2017 by Rhitter

[Rhitter]

Started changing out my front springs for Pinks and it's easier to get the axle in with the strut disconnected. Found this on the upper spring perch:

Drivers side was spring perch, tophat, washer, nut. This side was spring perch, washer, tophat, nut. I can only assume the washer should not be in there. Installer error on my part from 2011.

http://i.imgur.com/bKnehUs.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/eEA4N3r.jpg?1

 

top hat

http://i.imgur.com/06zWrcc.jpg?1

 

I depressed the strut and it seemed fine. Didn't see any oil leak out of it. but, it must have had a slow leak some times.

[Underdog]

Conical spacer/washer is not used with Spec.B upper mounts. It is used because the overall diameter of the bearing on the non-Spec.B mounts is smaller and the upper perch would be contacting both the inner and outer race.