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covertrussian

I Donated Too
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Everything posted by covertrussian

  1. It's been some time since I last posted related to this car. It's been a great and reliable daily driver so no reason to do much. With that said I did try to change out the ugly stock grill with the Legacy one since some people mentioned it worked. Stock Grill: The goal is to go for the Crosstrek Sport style look: Here's an example of another outback owner using the legacy grill Ordered the Legacy recessed grill similar to the Sports one: Drum roll.... Yeah no go on this sadly, would basically have to get the Legacy bumper to make this look right. Maybe could do some kind of a dark surround to hid the bumper guts, but not sure it's worth the effort.
  2. Glad to help, this was one of my favorite cars to build AND DRIVE, so had to share the love :). Now I will also say that having the fuel filter so close to the fuel rail might have doubled as a damper. Also tune has a lot to do with it too, this car's tune is some of the worst factory tunes I've ever dealt with.
  3. Updated the first post and clarified that the Dorman connectors are optional. Also fixed the image embedding
  4. My recommendation would be to go with on of the loop mufflers, they are the closest to OEM design without having the sharp 180's that OEM mufflers have. Just weld it into your existing Y pipe and no need to hunt for new catback :).
  5. Big part of it is the muffler it self, straight through designs are just too inefficient at reducing sound. I had a 3" setup, 5" Borla resonator, to an modified 04-07 STI muffler (bored out to 3", modified baffles for straighter path). The car was TOO quiet, would barely register on DB meter auto-crossing, it has a really deep idle though and sounded good free revving. I think removing the resonator would have helped make it a tee webit louder but at that point it was already in place and I didn't want to fight with it :).
  6. Thanks for the kind words, it was fun digging in and then sharing the experience with the community. In some ways I wish I did Youtube videos too, would have perhaps provided an income . Well that's partly why I've been so absent, all my spare time has been going digging and building the house addition along with other house related projects. I haven't even been auto-crossing in 3 years because my weekends are so busy. With that said, I wont lie I've been really eyeballing a 2018-2021 WRX. To the point that I might even ditch my G20 project/race car and just have the WRX for that duty too (they do really well auto-crossing stock!)
  7. Yeah I peaked at about 30-31mpg, though last couple years I was getting 28mpg on the LGT, dunno if it was tune or gas related, or just age of the car, still better then EPA's 24mpg. I doubt I'll mess with the Ascent tune, especially when CVT is so prone to failure. Cobb tune 93 tune sounds great, but car has enough power for it's purpose.
  8. Pretty bad, 16ish city 21-24 hwy (winter blends), but at the same time LGT would get that bone stock too. At least Ascent is 2x the car/weight
  9. The power is pretty decent for the car it's size, it's quick but no WRX or LGT (especially modded LGT). But it's miles ahead of the Outback! My biggest frustration is the CVT, it's laggy and constantly downshifting on slightest hills and then it feels gutless going up that hill still, which is so weird. It just doesn't feel fine tuned or refined at all and feels like the transmission has no consistency, which makes it really hard for me to predict, especially as a stick driver only. While I miss the Legacy it was just sitting and rotting like my G20 is too. I use the Ascent/Outback all the time, between extra space and ground clearance it's just hard to justify regular cars. In fact I could use a truck instead...
  10. I am, just been too busy with house projects to care about cars. I just posted an updated in my build thread with the replacement car.., can continue the conversation there.
  11. It's been a long while since last update, but this car moved on to a new owner, we really wanted a bigger car then then even the Outback. What makes it worse is I get to look at it daily and will probably be the primary mechanic for it still . Keeping the Ascent as stock as possible, because finicky CVT, but I did do some cosmetic changes already (door guards and front bumper cover).
  12. That's an impressive amount of miles, but you did rebuild it a few times! I too ended up selling my 05 LGT and I miss it, the NA Outback or Ascent just doesn't scratch the itch.
  13. Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Color: Red Miles: 160k Transmission: 5MT Title: Clean Lien: None Location: Harrisonburg, VA VIN: SOLD Seller's email address: SOLD Asking Price: $5,500 SOLD Time for me to part ways with the LGT, I simply don't drive it enough anymore and we need a 7 seat SUV instead. When I drove it all the time I got 20mpg city and up to 30mpg highway. Mods: Open Source ProTuned - 250whp on only 13psi Big 16G Turbo 8CM GrimmSpeed Header, Cross Pipe, Up Pipe, Downpipe Custom 3" exhaust TGV Deletes WRX Radiator - Koyo WRX Simple Mass Flywheel & Exedy Stage 1 Clutch GrimmSpeed CrankPulley STI FPR & Z32 Fuel Filter All Bushings replaced with Poly (Whiteline) & Whiteline LCA ALK Kit Whiteline Rear Swaybar Kartboy Short Shifter 2007 Folding Seat Mod JDM HVAC Controls Sony Head Unit AEM Wideband & Innovative Boost Gauge Stainless Steel Turbo an AVCS oil line (Banjo Filters removed) Replaced Wheel bearings, Ball Joints, Radiator and Hoses, AVCS Valves, Oil Seals Problems: - Clear coat is painting from Bumpers and headlights (were refinished at Subaru a couple years back) - Slight oil consumption, could be from using Full Synthetic 5w30 (Valvoline) or Fumoto valve is slowly dripping - Interior has wear and tear of a 15yo vehicle (but I do have spare parts that I can throw in) - Rear Right tire deflates over time
  14. Replied with some ideas in that other thread, to not derail this one.
  15. That sounds like a fueling related issue to me, either bad O2 sensors (both front and rear contribute to fuel trims, but they should be ignored on startup) OR it's a leaky injector or leaky injector o-rings that are flooding the engine. Maybe even the fuel pressure regulator, which is super complicated and you should just do an STI FPR mod. Could also be MAF sensor or vacuum leak or injectors, but you said you looked at those already. Could also be fuel pump or more specifically the fuel pump control module. But I would look at injectors and fuel pressure regulator first.
  16. Aha that explains it, they didn't look like 2x6's but pictures are pretty small
  17. Wait, how are you fitting R21 in 2x4 walls? Even R15 is a tight squeeze!
  18. Pro-tune is basically just a tune that was built for your specific car/setup by a professional (or someone that knows what they are doing). Is that the tune that you just downloaded directly from your ECU using ECU Flash? If so then sounds like your ECU might have been swapped out, this is weird but might have been done to bypass immobilizers (My 04 FXT didn't have a chipped key). Keep in mind that ECU's Tune are NOT cross comparable between different ECU's, it's like trying to run PowerPC Mac OS on Intel, your gonna have a bad day. The problem is, the flashing software might not stop you from flashing a wrong OS tune, which could brick the ECU completely. If that tune is what was downloaded, Romraider is showing that "A2WC50" is the latest revision. If that's the case, dig up the ECU it self and look at the part number stickers. Maybe someone did accidentally flash the wrong OS hence all the issues that you are seeing.
  19. What version of tune are you running? Should be in your tune file it self. AFAIK 2005 didn't have any cold weather fixes, last version is "A2WC522N". If you are not on A2WC522N, you could just flash it to that yourself. Now to me it sounds like your tune it self could be the culprit, so a pro-tuner would need to retune it to fix it. To answer your tune related question, there are two parts of the tune, the Operating System (OS) then inside of that there is the values that run the car (tune it self). When the dealer reflashes the ECU it replaces the whole OS , thus your tune would be completely rewritten and lost. The way we deal with this is, take the current moded tune with the old OS version, then get get the stock tune with OLD OS (that you can get here). To a comparison and note down the changed tables between your tune and stock tune. Next take the NEW OS from the same link as above, and copy over only the changed values. The reason you have to do it like this is, the new OS will have different pointers for data, so a direct Tune comparison wont always work right. It's a manual and tedious process but it's the only way really, especially since newer OS's will have different table sizes, which makes it harder then just a straight copy and paste.
  20. I'm using RomRaider and ECU Flash, my original ROM wasn't defined, but fortunately a newer version with WQC-39 Recall was (which my state is technically not eligible for): EE5K801W What I would do is see if you can find a defined version on RomRaider and switch over to it. For example here is one for 2011 CVT Outback: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9904
  21. Aren't you glad you waited a few months? The lumber right now is 2-3x cheaper then it was this summer. I'm starting to buy up the lumber for my construction too.
  22. Thanks! In some runs it's was a significant difference, but I couldn't tell if it was another factor (like launching at different rpm) or actual gains, so defaulted to the one that seemed the most accurate. I didn't realize how much time this car spends in sub 2,000 RPM range even. I'm so used to tuning for higher rpm's with my turbo cars, thus was really bummed to see NO gains 4k+ and thus would always just give up and go back to the stock tune. Part of me wants to fill it up with 93 again and make a tune that maxes that out, if there is significant gains then build the maps around that and use IAM pull back as octane based tunes. Forgot to mention, my current tune IAM has been sticking to 1.0 no problem!
  23. It's been a while since I've updated this thread, I've been a bit too busy with house construction to bother with the cars. BUT the frustration of how slow and sluggish this car got this summer forced me out of hibernation. Knock Knock First thing I did was check the Learning Views and IAM was sitting at basically 0, which explained why the car was sluggish, but didn't explain why it was worse this year specifically. Either my heat shields were rattling and the car thought it was knock, my Shell's 87 got worse, my motor is on it's way out (had an odd vibration at some RPM ranges), or I simply started driving the care more and pay attention more (probably this since my legacy mostly sits). Fixing the rattles and replacing the air filter didn't help at all, so I started going the tuning rabbit hole again. IAM being at almost 0 told me that it's timing/octane related most likely. A couple years ago I did try 87 re-tuning a while ago, but overall the car felt worse then when it would self tune, and there where no peak gains, and multi-map deal was too frustrating, thus I went back to factory tune. Retuning the Timing After some testing I found that it was mostly knocking at 2,000-3,500 RPM which would knock the IAM down and the rest of the RPM range would be crippled too. I found that if I reduced the timing in 2-3k RPM range IAM would stop pulling nearly as much timing (IAM is very crude/aggressive), but feedback or fine learning would kick in and be more graceful. I kept on adding timing in until it reached MBT (Minimum Best Timing), in the end the map didn't look TOO different from the ECU self tuned map, but it's as much as 10* less then what the ECU wants to run (which I think is over MBT even with 93 octane): Here is the before and after dyno map, after first glance it doesn't seem like all that time and effort helped much at all right? This is why I gave up tuning this car before too. Now if you look carefully at the 2-3k rpm range, look at the torque difference... This was VERY noticeable in daily driving (1-3k RPM range), the car felt much more powerful, similar to when I would run 93 gas. Tuning out this little section of the RPM range made all the difference in the world in drive-ability. Unfortunately this part is really hard to graph, since the software doesn't graph things below 2k rpm well/consistently. The Air to fuel ratio difference is related to D learning, which would reset with each reflash. I went ahead and disabled D Learning to stop wasting fuel mid range and higher, since it clearly doesn't help with power. In the end did I get earth shattering results over stock adjusted timing? Nope, MBT for mid to high RPM range was basically what the ECU self tuned it too, what this brought was the consistent power on a 90-100F day, similar to what I would get on a 50-60F day. Also the IAM is now constantly staying to 1.00! This really surprised me at first, since I had full timing up top. Lets just say Feedback/Fine learning knock controls would get pretty angry. About the Primary/Reference Cruise and Non Cruise Maps I've tried messing with the different maps and I found that my car mostly uses "Base Timing Reference Non-Cruise" for cruising and non-cruising. I've seen it use the timing from one of the other maps at some points, but I think it was a weird combo of IAM/VVL/Water temp. I was hoping to use them based on IAM to have a low octane and high octane maps, but sadly the switching logic is just not that simple. Thus for this reason I took the WOT sections of my Non-Cruise map and blended into the cruising sections of the other maps. This gave me the most consistent performance.
  24. That will work too, you still have to replace two gaskets, so figure out which gasket is cheaper .
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