2006Specb122 Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 Wait - check this Turbo Mesh Screen TSB. They're clearly aware of it and have sent this out to their dealerships as well. My master tech was aware of it when I discussed this topic with him. We even pulled off my BB to check the screen it was perfectly fine. OK that's great info! Turns out they didn't include this in the subaru booklet! What do they mean by "NOTE DIRECTION OF SCREEN." I can't see anything. Would it be easy to install the BOLT incorrectly??? You just screw teh bolt in place right? So you can't really check it on your own... UNLESS you have a replacement ready. If it IS dirty or restrictive you'll need to go buy a new one since it cannot be cleaned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I tried to get some momentum on this, or at least some knowledgable input, but FP (forced performance) sells Banjo Bolts with (IIRC) no screen and 3x the size opening for oil passage, as well as a turbo oil supply line that is also 3x the stock opening size for increased oil flow. It's a necessary part when upgrading to a variety of their turbos. They are about $20, and my thought is to replace both the stock units with those parts, regardless of what my future turbo plans are. I haven't seen anyone give this a thumbs up or thumbs down as an idea; if the theory is that the stock restrictive banjo bolt and oil supply line are to blame for a lack of lubrication and early turbo failure, than that $20 seems like a solid way to prevent that turbo failure...especially since they are designed for use in this car with turbos requiring greater oil flow. Thoughts? P.s. I can't believe Rao started an oil thread. Boo! did you ever try this? i have been thinking about doing this for preventive maintenance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shik Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Use this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81741 and 2 microns wont be a concern. Amsoil Ea filter info. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx Amsoil Ea By-pass filter info. Thanks for the links, Hammer. But it's not the 2 micron-sized particles that concern me, it's the mesh screen that they build up on! Seriously, I think the oiling system is perfectly fine in the 2.5l Turbo motor. And I will even go so far as to say the screen itself *could* be fine as well. It's the fact that Subaru hasn't stressed enough to the actual owners(not the dealers with the service bulletins or whatever), that it *may* need cleaning every once in a while or it *could* kill your turbocharger, that's what needs the most fixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Shik, I under stand what you are saying, but if your oil filtering system filter out down to 2 microns. You wont have to worry about those screens. IMO if using OEM filtering system, I would add the banjo filter check &, or replace to my service every 30k. For peace of mind. It up to you, whatever make you fell at ease. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Thought I'd add a cut away picture for those who still are confused as to where the bolt/filter in question is located.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Sweet cut-away. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I think the idea of filtering before the turbo is a good idea but the way Subaru went about it is garbage, there should be a filter with a bypass to prevent oil starvation to the turbo if it became clogged...or even a sensor to put the engine in a limp home mode. This from the TSB just doesn't make me feel comfortable, Subaru has alot more data on this then they will ever let the public know: "This bulletin is for informational purposes only. Turbocharged engines require proper maintenance especially when the vehicle is used under severe driving conditions, such as moderate to hard acceleration and engine braking on a somewhat regular basis." Who doesn't use engine braking ALL THE TIME if you drive stick! Wait - check this Turbo Mesh Screen TSB. They're clearly aware of it and have sent this out to their dealerships as well. My master tech was aware of it when I discussed this topic with him. We even pulled off my BB to check the screen it was perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 This picture should be stickied. Thought I'd add a cut away picture for those who still are confused as to where the bolt/filter in question is located.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Who doesn't use engine braking ALL THE TIME if you drive stick! Uh, I virtually NEVER do it. Brakes are cheaper than engine and driveline parts in the long haul. Got away from doing it many years ago when the issue came up. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 So you never downshift anymore? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 So you never downshift anymore? Downshifting for engine braking? No. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FSRBIKER Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Downshifting for engine braking? No. So you only downshift for better gearing to accelerate? You never downshift when slowing down to a stop sign, traffic light or in traffic? I just don't understand why as this is one of the huge benefits to owning a manual trans so you have better control of your car. So if you were doing 50 mph and the light turned red you just push the clutch in and coast/use the brakes to stop and then shift into first gear once you are completely stopped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 hell i do it in my auto. use a good oil and the engine can take it. my first set of pads on my auto lasted me almost 90k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 So you only downshift for better gearing to accelerate? You never downshift when slowing down to a stop sign, traffic light or in traffic? I just don't understand why as this is one of the huge benefits to owning a manual trans so you have better control of your car. So if you were doing 50 mph and the light turned red you just push the clutch in and coast/use the brakes to stop and then shift into first gear once you are completely stopped? Correct. There have been articles written about NOT using a manual tranny for engine braking for many years now. It causes extra engine & drivetrain wear as the parts are stressed in the opposite direction. Also sucks more oil in the combustion chambers. And, as the cats wear and the substrate starts to break up, pieces can get sucked into the engine. And this is not theory, it has happened to folks in my other car club and forum. It also is easier on the clutch. I drive with as little clutch disengagement/engagement as possible. Now, I don't drive easy, but I get decent clutch wear. I was even impressed that I got 40K out of the original LGT clutch after 200+ dragstrip runs. Brakes are cheap, and that's what they are for. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 So you only downshift for better gearing to accelerate? You never downshift when slowing down to a stop sign, traffic light or in traffic? I just don't understand why as this is one of the huge benefits to owning a manual trans so you have better control of your car. So if you were doing 50 mph and the light turned red you just push the clutch in and coast/use the brakes to stop and then shift into first gear once you are completely stopped? FSRBiker - I'm sure someone will jump in and disagree with me here, but two things: 1. The TSB said moderate to severe acceleration and engine braking...i take that to mean high RPM engine braking. 2. I don't do what you specified regarding downshifting coming to a stop. I don't see a point. I just allow the car to slow down in gear until either it's time to accelerate again, at which point I shift to the correct gear and rev-match, or I let the car engine brake to ~1500 rpms and then I shift to neutral as I come to a stop. No matter how good I am at rev-matching, choosing to downshift through the gears at each light will involve using my clutch alot more. Further, what gain in car control do I have? I can typically replace a set of brake pads in about 30-45 minutes using basic hand tools and about $75 worth of parts once every 50k miles. I can't replace a clutch myself at this time and would rather extend it's life as much as possible. So that's my choice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shik Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 FWIW, I took my filter out today. There were indeed "particles" on the screen. Enough to mess with the oil supply? I doubt it very much. Still, I feel better knowing it's out. The car has 69K miles so I expected it not to be perfectly clean as some have found. But what did build up on the screen, in my opinion, would have caused no extra wear to the turbo had the screen not been there. Now to just find the bolt for the bracket I dropped (why can't they just fall to the ground and make life easy :lol: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattaleao Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Is the general consensus to remove this filter? It seems to be...Im picking mine up tomorrow and can probably get the dealership to do this before I drive off the lot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Not in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudeondacouch Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I thought this thread could use some better pics, so I took some as I removed my screen today: This is the location, you can see it much better with the turbo and stuff out of the way. http://i40.tinypic.com/10seij6.jpg Here is the bolt as it came out. http://i44.tinypic.com/28unw4j.jpg Here is the screen removed. http://i43.tinypic.com/r75ggl.jpg Here is a closeup of the particles on the screen. Not much IMHO. http://i44.tinypic.com/4r8a6x.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nka Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 nice pics ! Thanks a lot, very usefull to me ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudeondacouch Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 nice pics ! Thanks a lot, very usefull to me ! no prob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I just pulled my Banjo bolt tonight. I've got 53k and there wasn't much on the screen. Nothing to really worry about. I did however leave it out, since I kinda ripped the screen taking it out. I use synthetic and change the oil every 3k and go no more than 4k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAldea Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 How much time has it taken for everyone to access the banjo bolt for screen inspection or removal? Is this a job easily done by someone with limited mechanical ability or do you really need some good skills to remove and replace all the parts needed to access the bolt? It has been a long time since I've been a serious shade tree mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 It's not that hard at all. Take off the heat shield and then take the nuts off the bracket and the bracket comes off. But you will need a swivel head ratcheting wrench or a shorty 17mm wrench. It is just in a dumb spot. Total time should be about 30-45 minutes to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devobuzz Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 It's just getting the washers back on that's a PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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