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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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Steps:

2. Remove one of the heat shield bolts as shown in the picture

3. Remove the nut from the stud as shown in the picture

4. Remove the bolt from the bracket as shown in the picture. This is the hardest part because you can't get a good angle at it. Use the u-joint.

5. Remove the bracket itself

 

I have an 05 limited XT, and is the bolt in my picture with the recessed hole the banjo bolt? I was thinking it was mounted sideways for some reason.

 

http://david.stembridge.us/media/Subaru/DWS_3040-2_FB.jpg

http://david.stembridge.us/media/Subaru/DWS_3041-2_FB.jpg

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Someone replaced a factory 14mm head bolt with a Allen head bolt. That holds the up pipe bracket (holding the up pipe to the head). That is not the oil supply bolt.

 

I have found quite a few surprises like that via my car's previous owner!

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  • 2 months later...
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I finally got around to trying this ('05 LGT 108k) after some delay getting a 17mm stubby. I got the heat shield bolt out and the nut off the brace stud easily, but then had trouble with the brace bolt that goes into the alloy top of the engine. It was very tight and I ended up stripping the threads in the block. I managed to restore the threads with a tap and clean the bolt with a die so that I think it will reassemble adequately. My fear is that the banjo bolt itself will be very tight and I run the risk of stripping those threads (though it would be difficult with the leverage of a stubby and the restricted access). Any thoughts, advice or similar experiences?
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Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I finally got around to trying this ('05 LGT 108k) after some delay getting a 17mm stubby. I got the heat shield bolt out and the nut off the brace stud easily, but then had trouble with the brace bolt that goes into the alloy top of the engine. It was very tight and I ended up stripping the threads in the block. I managed to restore the threads with a tap and clean the bolt with a die so that I think it will reassemble adequately. My fear is that the banjo bolt itself will be very tight and I run the risk of stripping those threads (though it would be difficult with the leverage of a stubby and the restricted access). Any thoughts, advice or similar experiences?

 

I think your saying you striped the threads in the block for the up pipe support bracket....right ?

 

If you get new crush washers for the banjo bolt from the dealer you should be fine.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I think your saying you striped the threads in the block for the up pipe support bracket....right ?

 

If you get new crush washers for the banjo bolt from the dealer you should be fine.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, that is what happened. I was able to restore the threads well enough to put the uppipe support bracket back in securely. However, I balked at pulling and replacing the banjo bolt (the point of the whole exercise) because I definitely did not want to strip the threads in the block. My question was how tight is the banjo bolt usually? Has anybody stripped the block threads?

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  • 10 months later...

Reviving this thread to post my experience. Father in law mentioned his 04 subaru forester xt had thrown a code. Pulled p011 and p021 codes suggesting AVCS issue. This thread popped up in a search for solutions. Thought "no problem, pull that stupid filter and button it all back up". Pulled the screen. Thing looked pretty blocked up. No solid bits or anything, but definitely buildup present.

Struggled like everyone else with the block side copper washer. Pulled the coolant hose to buy a little more room for myself. Got that washer squared away with the fishing line and then everything else was easy enough to put back together. Put in fresh oil since FIL was likely well past due for oil change.

 

Crank engine, no issues, no leaks, power off, clear codes. Crank engine again after codes are cleared. What i didn't notice was smoke out the exhaust. Significant smoke out the exhaust. Smoke with every throttle input. Down on power and suspecting dead turbo. No codes being thrown. My guess is FIL drove it for sometime with that CEL lamp light and killed that turbo. Didn't see metal shavings or anything in oil or in the oil filter.

Basically at a point of "pass on to shop to replace turbo" or sell it as mechanics special to a coworker, with blessing of FIL of course.

Edited by GTISprinks
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I'm a fairly new LGT owner and wanted to reprt my findings...

 

I bought an 08 LGT with 130k miles on it. Guy told me the turbo was shot. I got it real cheap and he even included a new turbo to replace it with. I pulled the old Turbo apart and sure enough the shaft was snapped in two! I actually drove the car 40 miles home with the broken turbo because I didn't have a way to tow it. I replaced the turbo and during the process took the banjo out to remove the filter, it was spotless! I removed it anyway. So clogged filter didn't cause my turbo to fail, what did?

 

Fast forward I'm at 155k miles now and it runs great, no issues to date other than a terrible stumble in boost that I'm still trying to diagnose...

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Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I'm a fairly new LGT owner and wanted to reprt my findings...

 

I bought an 08 LGT with 130k miles on it. Guy told me the turbo was shot. I got it real cheap and he even included a new turbo to replace it with. I pulled the old Turbo apart and sure enough the shaft was snapped in two! I actually drove the car 40 miles home with the broken turbo because I didn't have a way to tow it. I replaced the turbo and during the process took the banjo out to remove the filter, it was spotless! I removed it anyway. So clogged filter didn't cause my turbo to fail, what did?

 

Fast forward I'm at 155k miles now and it runs great, no issues to date other than a terrible stumble in boost that I'm still trying to diagnose...

 

How about the other banjo bolt filter (on the driver side head behind the timing belt cover) ?

 

Have you been monitoring your intake AVCS angles?

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Turbo shafts don't snap in two from high mileage.

 

 

 

 

Um, yes they do. A scenario... Bearings wear due to age. Bearing wear causes shaft play. While spinning (with play) the blades contact the housing (even lightly, we call that "dusting") and the "shock" snaps the shaft. It can certainly happen. Depending on how long you drive on a bad turbo all kinds of interesting things can happen.

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys,

 

So I recently found an 08 LGT spec B for sale locally. It has 116k miles and its one owner and looks to be in good condition. I've read about the screen in banjo bolt removal and its effect on turbo. I'm gonna be heading up there to see the car in the next few days. Is this something I can ask the dealer to check/remove if need be before purchasing the car. I was also told to do a compression/leak down test beforehand as well. Is this something I can ask them to do as well. It seems like a good find, I just don't wanna end up with a bad/dead turbo shortly after buying. Any other precautions I should take or ask about? Thanks.

 

I know Subaru has done away with these filters. IF its still there with 116K miles, would/should that be a deal breaker?

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The filters are not the issue. Oil change interval is the issue.

 

 

 

On the 08 you wont be able to check/remove the filter without some extensive work. So, no dont ask the dealer about it. Chances are with 116k on the clock the turbo needs a rebuild anyways. Most turbos last about 100k miles if they live a full life. They can go longer, they can go less.

 

 

 

A compression and or leak down test does not guarantee anything. But if it makes you feel better its not the worst idea in the world.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Removed the filter near the turbo today. The $4 copper washers helped with reassembly a lot. Not recommended for people with large hands.

 

I change my oil every 3k miles and that filter is clean at 49k miles.

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  • 7 months later...
I'm thinking you pulled the one at the turbo not the one on the back of the head.

 

The bolt you want is the one that goes in the oil feed tube here,

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4769.jpg

 

I'm bringing back an old thread, as I'm curious as to what are the repercussions of removing the line all together and just blocking off the rear oil hole? and feeding the turbo from the AVCS line?

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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Can the turbo get enough oil from the avcs? I thought that the avcs was getting oil from the back or top rear of the block?

 

The ipt kit left the line in place just capped under the turbo. With a new line coming off of the avcs how did your kit differ m sprank?

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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Can the turbo get enough oil from the avcs? I thought that the avcs was getting oil from the back or top rear of the block?

 

The ipt kit left the line in place just capped under the turbo. With a new line coming off of the avcs how did your kit differ m sprank?

 

I've been running Mike's setup for two years plus with no issues. I even went as far as replacing the oem feed line with one from a N/A Legacy. No ill effects what so ever and a much cleaner look. (in my opinion)

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Can the turbo get enough oil from the avcs? I thought that the avcs was getting oil from the back or top rear of the block?

 

The ipt kit left the line in place just capped under the turbo. With a new line coming off of the avcs how did your kit differ m sprank?

 

 

I am IPT. Infamous Performance and Tuning. I designed, had manufactured, marketed, sold, packaged and shipped every one myself.

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