devobuzz

I fixed mine myself. Ran new lines and distribution block under the rear seat. There is a post with instructions in the forum somewhere.

I'm throwing this out there since it happened to me. Do you notice any slight decrease in power? Is the rattle more quiet than loud? For me my issue was a stuck waste gate. It was stuck slightly open bleeding off boost. The rattle was minor but I think it was the waste gate puck rattling.

Bought mine in Aug 2004. Has 109K on the odometer. Still runs well. No rust. Issues I have had: rusted brake lines in rear, rear wheel bearings, CV boot melted, valve cover gasket, sway bar end links. All typical repair issues for this car. Mods: Access Port stage 2, up and down pipes, lowering springs, koni struts/ shocks, 17x8 wheels.

Sorry I do not have much troubleshooting experience with these cars as mine has not had major issues since I bought it in 2004. <knock on wood>. I do have years of experience with my other cars though. Is there a fuel pump relay? Perhaps the contacts in the relay are bad?

My guess would be fuel pump. Can you monitor the fuel pressure while it's running to see if it drops?

My problem was that the wastegate was hung open. So the boost was bleeding off. Had to disconnect the downpipe to free it up. Another symptom was a rattle sound at idle. I thought it was a heat shield but it was actually the wastegate puck rattling.

My problem was that the wastegate was hung open. So the boost was bleeding off. Had to disconnect the downpipe to free it up. Another symptom was a rattle sound at idle. I thought it was a heat shield but it was actually the wastegate puck rattling.

Well its my turn. Rear brake line blew. My gas tank isn't looking good either. Where can I get a new one? Is that bolt on the bottom the drain plug?

Got the downpipe off. It turns out the wastegate flapper puck is loose and not making contact with the bypass hole. The actuator is jammed. Took off the actuator and pushed and pulled it a few times. Seems ok now. If it jams again will look for a replacement. Thankfully the shaft us tight with no play.

Can I pull the turbo with the down pipe still attached?

2005 LGT stock VF40 turbo. 102K miles. So I have this rattling noise that I hear when engine is running. Pretty much the same either cold or hot engine. I thought it sounded like a heat shield rattle but I do not have any heat shield on my CNT down pipe. Seems to be coming from the turbo area. I tried to pull off the down pipe to check shaft play but those bolts aren't coming loose. Can I check the shaft play by pulling off the air intake tube? Is it relatively easy? Tried to see from the intercooler inlet but the compressor isn't visible. Thanks, Ralph

Oh right - rear wheel bearings for me too.

Cobb stage 2 for the last 70K miles.

Just wondering how many people on the 4th gen page are original owners and still have their LGTs? I bought mine 2005 LGT in August 2004 over 15 years ago.. Still have it. 103K miles. Only issues: O2 sensor. CV boot. Valve cover gasket. Rear wheel bearings. Everything else was maintenance items.

Sounds about right price wise to me. I did them myself and I'm not a mechanic. But I do have experience.

Sorry...just checked my spreadsheet. I dont have part number documented. I can try to find out if you need it?

You want part numbers for a turbo didge??

My engine builder used King bearings for my all forged rotating assembly on my turbo dodge engine. I have always heard positive reviews.

I have my Hayden in for 60K miles. No issues. Just don't remember which model it was. It does have the thermostatic bypass.

There is nothing for LGTs only anymore. Used to be some in NJ when the 4th gen first came out. Now you need to go to the general Subaru meets. Where in NJ are you?

When I ordered my Aisin kit from rockauto I got the tkf-004 for my 2005 LGT. It was missing one pulley and I had to go for the dealer for it as I couldn't wait for a reshipment

No you do not need those. Ultra black is what many are using.

I only did the rtv as per manual. BUT so far my car is still smoking. Not sure if it leaking or just burning off residual oil. No need for rtv around spark plug gaskets as far as I know.

I run -1.5 up front and -1.0 on the rear. It's a daily driver with 1.5" lowering springs and konis. Tires will wear on insides but not very bad. I got 50k on stock tires with this setup before insides were wore out.

I'm doing the gasket replacement this weekend. Guess I better get some of those rubber vent tube hoses for the passenger side just in case. Update: I followed posts 85 and 104. They covered the process and tricks. Good info. I did not jack up the engine and was able to do it ok.