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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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I did this job today. The bolt and nut that keep the bracket on were pretty frozen. It took some penetrating oil and a big breaker bar to loosen them. I was able to get sockets on both by using long extensions.

 

The worst part of the whole job was getting the banjo bolt and copper washers back in. I bought a new banjo bolt and had a bunch of copper washers on hand which was good as I dropped a few of them. This isn't a job for someone with large hands.

 

When I was at the dealer getting the banjo bolt, I asked him if they leave the filter in or not. He said they did and that the job took a long time because they remove the turbo to do it. Admittedly, removing the turbo would have made life a bit easier but would have take a lot longer. It struck me as the dealer trying to suck money out of the customer.

 

Finally, Subaru, you suck for this.

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^ Just because they charge you to remove the turbo to do this job, doesn't mean the actually do...I would hope the smart mechanic would have this figured out.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Ok, so I just checked this. 58k miles, went stage 2 at 38k. Car was bought Jan '05. Filter was as clean as could be hoped for (saw the odd little particle, maybe 5-10, or maybe it was just oil defracting the light differently). Overall looked VERY clean. So, I put it back in.

 

Except for the first 7.5K OCI and one or two M1 5w30s, I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. OCI of 3K-3.75K. I'm at 3.5K now, and am getting very antsy. Yes, I'm a little anal about it, but I figure - oil is the thing keeping my turbo alive. I'd rather do a few extra, unnecessary oil changes over the life of the car and have peace of mind.

 

Notes:

-I slightly misread the directions at first. I thought I had to get the bolt from UNDERNEATH for the top-left "remove" circle, and that's what the u-joint was for. So, I bought a u-joint. Didn't need it: rao, you owe me $10 :spin:. Turns out it's the nut on top.

 

-I used 6" + 2" extensions to remove both of the top bolts/nuts.

 

-The top-right one that you used a u-joint for, I did slip once with the 14mm socket, so I used a 9/16 socket, and that worked great.

 

-The top-left is very hard to get the socket past the hoses/lines, so to remove, I put the socket on the nut, then brought the extension down to the socket, and loosened the nut with the extension only partially into the socket. Worked just fine. After tightening, I found there IS room to get the socket past the hoses/lines on top, it just takes a little work.

 

-I didn't have a "shorty" 17mm wrench, I was able to use a full-length 17mm box wrench by being careful and turning from various angles. I'd recommend a 17" shorty next time. I'll probably buy one if we still have the car in 3-5 years and I check this again.

 

-The bracket is slightly more of a pain than you might expect. Especially getting it back in - I fumbled around for nearly 10 minutes trying to get it back into place. Got it partly stuck in heatshield, etc. Best angle to get it back in is from the front, leaning over the engine, using your left hand. That way, you can easily lift the part where the bolt goes. I found it was awkward to try to push at the right angle from the side.

 

-Be careful not to lose the bolt! I accidentally dropped it down the side, and luckily recovered it. Ok, so it's a heat shield - as long as the bolt doesn't fall anywhere critical, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Overall, thanks for the write-up rao. It was worth $10, so we're even :lol:.

 

I'll certainly sleep easier, after all these turbo-blow-up stories. Sure, mine might still blow up, but at least it won't be from oil-starvation due to the banjo bolt...

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Yeah I don't know anyone who found it clogged.

But for 30 bucks it might be worth changing every 75k miles.

 

Just a thought.... I will probably do it....

 

change that ...and install a new pick up for the oil pan and then I can drive worry free....... almost

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It looks like if the filter is clogged it's too late. So, what's the purpose of checking it?

I have 145K all highway miles on my original turbo. Mobil-1 5W30 every 5K miles. The turbo works just fine.

So the question is to check the filter or not to check and safe the time and aggravation?

Thanks.

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It looks like if the filter is clogged it's too late. So, what's the purpose of checking it?

I have 145K all highway miles on my original turbo. Mobil-1 5W30 every 5K miles. The turbo works just fine.

So the question is to check the filter or not to check and safe the time and aggravation?

Thanks.

 

honestly i think its better off if you check it... if its clean you know for sure and you can sleep better at night... if its not clean you know you probably added more life to your turbo.... thats just my .02.... i feel its better safe then sorry...

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i removed mine today after 91k miles. the filter had very tiny little particles on it but nothing extreme. i left it out since it was damaged from removing it. i also feel better looking and i think my penis grew an inch
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honestly i think its better off if you check it... if its clean you know for sure and you can sleep better at night... if its not clean you know you probably added more life to your turbo.... thats just my .02.... i feel its better safe then sorry...

 

I did check the filter today. Nothing. Couldn't be any cleaner. I removed the turbo heat shield which made all process much easier. Since the heat shield was removed I have decided to take a down pipe off and check the radial and axial play of the turbine wheel. But this is tomorrow project. I will report the condition of my 145K miles old turbo.

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.... Since the heat shield was removed I have decided to take a down pipe off and check the radial and axial play of the turbine wheel. But this is tomorrow project. I will report the condition of my 145K miles old turbo.

 

145K miles old turbo? Is this the original one on your LGT? If so, that's reassuring in light of other reports of turbos blowing with much lower mileage...

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145K miles old turbo? Is this the original one on your LGT? If so, that's reassuring in light of other reports of turbos blowing with much lower mileage...

 

As he said earlier, yes, it's his original turbo. Yes, that IS reassuring. I'm at 58K, and my filter was clean. I'm hoping to get 100K+ out of the original turbo..

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As I said in my previous post I took the down pipe off the exhaust line to get an access to the turbine wheel. By the spec the axial play of the turbo is not to exceed .003" and the radial play is to be below .006". There was no way to use an indicator when the turbo is still mounted in place. But I did use my fingers and I can to confirm that there was no any axial play at all!!! There was some radial play of the turbine wheel, I think well below of that maximum allowed .006". I had no access to the compressor side, so I assume that the compressor impeller has the same radial play as the turbine wheel has. I keep my fingers crossed but I hope to make another 145K miles with the original turbo.

I confirm that the odometer reading is about 145,000 miles. The turbo, as well as other parts, is the original one. Please note that my car is 100% stock and I have never abused it. No performance modifications at all but I like to push a pedal to the metal once for a while... You know what I mean.

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^^^ you never know, people told me I couldn't do 15k OCI. I avg. 12k OCI, I have over 114k on my GT (still stock motor & turbo). If you take care of the car, check & keep all fluids full, IMO oil should be check min. once a week. Never let it get low. There is no reason you can't get 200k-250k out of these cars. Living in NY, I more worried about the car rusting away. Then the motor dieing. IMO if your turbo blows after 100k+. You'll got your money out of it and it's time for an up-grade :cool:

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Ok ok wooooah. First I'm rubbing my eyes and blinking 2x to ensure I'm not "seeing things" about some statistical fluke called a "145K-mile-turbo." Now I see someone changing their oil nearly 3x less than revised manufacturer spec of 3-4K. Pinch me but OCI stands for "oil change interval", no? I've posted disclaimers here on several occasions that I'm a self-labeled newbie but... someone slap me awake before I start believing that I'm living in utopia here!!
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Ok ok wooooah. First I'm rubbing my eyes and blinking 2x to ensure I'm not "seeing things" about some statistical fluke called a "145K-mile-turbo." Now I see someone changing their oil nearly 3x less than revised manufacturer spec of 3-4K. Pinch me but OCI stands for "oil change interval", no? I've posted disclaimers here on several occasions that I'm a self-labeled newbie but... someone slap me awake before I start believing that I'm living in utopia here!!

 

My 145K miles turbo is not a bluff but the reality. I can only explain this longevity as a combination of the followings:

- no "performance" modifications,

- using of synthetic oil from the first oil change. Mobil 1. 5W30 - for summer and 10W30 for winter.

- oil change every 5K+/- 500 miles

- mostly highway miles: 2000-3000 RPM

- all services are DIY ones with the exception of the timing belt

- My LUCK

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