JoeFromPA

First off, great results. I'm surprised at the loss of torque/hp from ~2400-3500rpms. If I was solely looking at your dyno chart, I would expect that you moved to a much larger turbo since it takes an additional ~1000rpms for you to reach the torque output of the vf46 (on the chart). I know dynos can often mis-lead, especially in the early RPMs, just jumped out at me as the vf52 is typically considered a very minor sacrifice in lag in order to gain a significant mid-range and top-end boost.

At this stage, how would you compare the OBXT's handling to say the WRX or other rides? You've obviously got significant ride height and suspension travel, but you've invested heavily in stiffening up the suspension too and you are riding on some decent all season tires. Very curious Would really welcome your input on just the overall driving experience from an enthusiast with a history in the WRX.

If you live far away from this, you notify the FBI and Police, as appropriate. If you live close by, you evaluate what it means to you, and if you are serious you follow a scorched earth policy. If you are a kid, you think you can walk up to someone, punch them in the face, and walk away smiling. When you grow up, you realize that doesn't happen. You do what you have to do, and pay for it. I don't like scammers or people who deliberately hurt others for their own gain. I'm torn though: if I went the route of notifying his job/boss and going through the police, then my name would be associated with it. I'd have to stay on the up and up. If not though, I'd be free to do other less scrupulous things with lower risk of having to pay large for it. I think it's interesting how many people talk the talk on this thread and ask for vids and such - if someone really dealt with this guy on a personal level, they'd be smart to never acknowledge it.

Sounds like an install problem

Sadly,that already sounds healthier than my stock 2.5 turbo....

I don't get the Subaru motor nostalgia. Subaru is not some amazing motor company. They're decent, don't get me wrong, but their motors are not legendary for: 1. Holding together, stock, under lots of added power (i.e. Supra) 2. Fuel Economy for power output (i.e. LS series) 3. Smoothness (i.e. BMW I-6) 4. Technological Brilliance etc. When I go over to Porsche forums and there is talk about how their 1997+ 2.5 liter engine is known for having some issues, and someone suggests swapping in a Subaru 2.5 liter turbo, people freak out. Ok, fine, those people are brand cachetists or adore the flat six... But to knock this guy for wanting to swap in a smooth, proven, high powered engine? I don't get it. Good luck to you Frankster. That's some bad-ass magic you are doing.

One other oft overlooked part of bearing life is balanced wheels. Unbalanced wheels/tires, even a minor vibration, will beat the ever-loving snot out of a wheel bearing.

If stock are POS Rao, how come there are so many people running ~50% more power than stock for so many thousands of miles without problems? Huh? Why?

I believe it's the fuel pump fuse, just in case you were wondering.

Freaking awesome news considering your concerns about oil supply earlier on. I know the oil pump was a different issue as well, but this is great. Can't wait till the tuning continues

I assume that while you are waiting for new parts you are taking a rotary brush and some metal polishing compound and shining up your engine right? That baby needs some bling!

UD - That was pretty concise for the explanation into it. I have nothing to offer here in terms of expertise...but I have to ask: Are you running shell rotella t 5w40 synthetic? Might be your problem right there, if not. Can't wait to see this love affair get off the rocks.

I'll add that on BMW e39 M5 forums (2000-2003 M5), spun rod bearings are a major concern because there have been a bunch of documented cases of a rod bearing going and throwing a rod through the block. Big problem because a new block is ~$17-20k (easier to find a junker to swap an engine into, though those are rare). To the point there that some owners are doing preventative rod bearing replacement (and similar maintenance) at around the 100k mark. Only a few have done it so far, but only a few are hitting those types of miles. Anyway....I agree, every car has it's weakness. My concerns with the LGT weaknesses is that with the turbo and piston at least, you have people with: 1. Pistons causing sufficient damage/contamination to the point that a new long-block is required OR that continued problems are experienced due to debris. 2. Turbo failure causing lots of damage and contamination and causing the same sort of very expensive and possibly continuing problem. But, as pointed out, a few cases get very loud because they were so problematic. How big of a problem is it actually?

NSFW - I think enough guys on here have been running well-tuned cars at 350-400whp to show that stock pistons blowing at 270whp are more likely due to the tuning. I've shown myself to be a worry-wart, and all I can say is that I find it extremely unlikely that stock pistons on a stock car in a good state of tune running 92 or 93 octane....well, I think they are fairly safe. I'm going to switch back to a OEM air filter (from AVO) to not push my luck. And, to your point, the stock pistons + a reliable aftermarket turbo + an opened up downpipe (to help the compressor remain stable + a nice conservative and rich tune = a long-life, reliable LGT. In my mind at least.

Thanks Boostin. One thing I learned (after reading way more than I should have had to) is that for most of the ~250-350awhp daily driven crowd, a pair of well-made cast pistons with stock-like clearance would be an ideal solution. But all we've got is 6 different types of forged pistons, or stock. I think it was GTTuner who recently posted a pair of forged pistons with massive depth to the ringlands. Would that be possible with a cast solution? And, secondly, are the stock pistons really that much of a problem or is it simply that the stock tune is very questionable & alot of tunes also have dangerous running conditions, leading to the illusion that the stock pistons are weak for both stock and tuned cars. Get me? Joe

Thanks so much Scruit. This was always a job that I wanted to tackle and have had fears about. After reviewing your video, it looks to me like a ~6 hour job for a newbie with the proper tools (and forgoing any seized bolts). It also seems completely reasonable for a guy with the right tools, a garage space, and (just in case) another vehicle as a back-up for worst case scenarios. Joe

Sorry if I built up the expectations then...I'll say this: I don't have high expectations for your high end Honestly though, I'm just tired of reading "Twin scroll has GREAT response"....well, wtf does that mean anyway? Compared to what? Does it feel like N/A? Does it feel like a current gen GTI with direct injection, whereby the lag is distinct but gone in an instant? Does it feel like a BMW 335i where the power just starts at 1500 rpms and never stops until the top-end peters out a bit? Does the car feel great in everyday driving AND when driving aggressively? Etc. etc. Based upon your past reviews, I'm not concerned with getting "It feels great!" from you Joe

I'm guessing the tarmacs offer you much greater comfort, based upon that comment? I am, quite literally, dying to read your comprehensive review of the twin scroll setup....knowing you, (along with Unclemat and a few others on here) I have no doubt you'll get 'er done right and can't wait to read the results. I'm guessing it's going to feel like a nicely tuned 4.0 liter v8 at 2000 rpms

Cost of parts (if possible, new, since that's more consistent) and approximate number of labor hours needed to swap to a 6mt? Transmission including clutch assembly/flywheel, or do you need to purchase that seperately? I'm wondering because I've seen plenty of clutch jobs run $1500 for parts and labor, and it seems like this could be an option if it's $2500-3000 and you plan on keeping the car for a long time. Joe

Hi all, This happened to my wife about 4 months ago. I had her pull over, restart the car, and it worked fine. Now it happened yesterday on her drive home, and again today. Has ANYONE discovered a fix for this? I really don't want the dealership tearing apart my dash unless this is identified. Joe

Supertech is a fine oil....just step up to their synthetic or semi-synth. Their regular is fine too, but for the price difference the semi-synth and synth are just far better oils.

Damnit! Now I have no excuse next time I'm at home depot. I guess I'll have to tell my wife I can't do any more home projects that require something from that store...unless she wants her car modified Joe

It seems like it's only available from ex-US dealers....correct me if I'm wrong