2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal

[JoeFromPA]

There is no reason I can think of for your banjo bolt to get clogged if your oil is healthy and your filter is filtering. Since there are oils and filters made to keep going strong after 10k-15k miles and beyond, seems to make sense that a shorter OCI wouldn't do much different for your turbo than a super short one.

 

As long as the oil is holding up

 

Cue Rao.

[rao]

Funny, I have read the Mobil 1 ensures death of any Subaru engine and that it will make your s last at least 145,000. From this I conclude that you guys have no idea what you are talking about

[JoeFromPA]

Or maybe turbo failures, thought to be potentially caused by a clogged banjo filter, is not a byproduct of extended oil drains (being 7500 miles or longer).

 

It's good to hear about more people getting 100k+ out of their stock turbo. Not enough of those stories around, but the bad news always comes first in these situations.

 

Coming from a ford thunderbird turbo coupe and a volvo 850 turbo, both of which 150k on their stock turbos, this is more like it

[hadvw]

Or maybe turbo failures, thought to be potentially caused by a clogged banjo filter, is not a byproduct of extended oil drains (being 7500 miles or longer).

 

Yeah, I was just thinking that - what if the clogged filter is a RESULT of a dead turbo?

 

Anyway, at least it's not the CAUSE of anything yet for me..

[alpinefun]

Yeah, I was just thinking that - what if the clogged filter is a RESULT of a dead turbo? quote]

 

Quite possible if you keep driving your car after the turbo was failed.

Oil contaminated with the turbo's debris eventually will make into the banjo bolt filter destroying everything on its way

[JoeFromPA]

From what I understand, turbo debris would need to go to to the oil pan, get pumped up through the system, get missed by the oil filter (or the oil filter would have to by-pass it), and then get pumped all the way back through the system and get caught in the banjo bolt.

 

That seems unlikely to me, but maybe I'm just way off

[2006Specb122]

good point

[rporter]

Funny, I have read the Mobil 1 ensures death of any Subaru engine and that it will make your s last at least 145,000. From this I conclude that you guys have no idea what you are talking about

 

I get the joke, but.....

 

I only give any credence in oil discussions to someone who bought a car new and has at least 100K miles.

 

FWIW, I bought a new '89 Taurus SHO (and have owned a number since). The car saw the 7K redline multiple times every day of the 10 years that I owned it. Plus track and dragstrip days.

 

I was religious about the 3K dino oil changes, but I went to whatever I had a coupon for. Meaning that it saw about every 10W-30 oil available on the market.

 

I sold it to a buddy after 10 years and 182K miles. It finally started going through a quart every 2K for the last 10K miles I owned it (never added any oil up until then).

 

My buddy found a leak at the pan at 200K. Dropped the pan, and found a clean engine. Changed the rod bearings, and found minimal wear down to the copper on all six.

 

After the resealed oil pan, he also had zero consumption between 3K oil changes.

 

My conclusion? It doesn'r matter what you use, just be religious on oil changes.

 

IMNSHO, oil opinions over 10-30-50K miles are BS, they don't prove anything.

[JoeFromPA]

Hey Ron,

 

As a big proponent of synthetics.....I agree.

 

Synthetics are mainly good for long oil change intervals or extreme circumstances in specific engines. Otherwise, it's money down the sump hole

[hadvw]

I get the joke, but.....

FWIW, I bought a new '89 Taurus SHO (and have owned a number since). The car saw the 7K redline multiple times every day of the 10 years that I owned it. Plus track and dragstrip days.

 

...

 

My conclusion? It doesn't matter what you use FOR NA ENGINES, just be religious on oil changes.

 

T,FTFY

 

I'll totally agree (anecdotally, of course :-) with your observation about oil for NA engines. Been there, done that.

 

When there's a $1k piece of hardware called a turbo involved (with a chance to do $2.5K+ of damage), I'll pay a little extra per change for synthetic and piece of mind.

[mccorry]

BS. Dino is fine for turbochargers... if you maintain your levels and are religious about OCI.

[rporter]

T,FTFY

 

I'll totally agree (anecdotally, of course :-) with your observation about oil for NA engines. Been there, done that.

 

When there's a $1k piece of hardware called a turbo involved (with a chance to do $2.5K+ of damage), I'll pay a little extra per change for synthetic and piece of mind.

 

I had been running synth for the first 40K or so (53K now). I then went to dino every 3K, and I just run synth for the summer when I do track & dragstrip. for the heat factor.

[alpinefun]

You do know that the oil flows INTO the bolt end and out the sides.

The photos you show of the filter are of the outlet side. Any contaminants will be INSIDE the filter screen....

 

I am totally confused now. Could you please confirm the direction of the oil flow through the bolt? Thanks

[mccorry]

Oil flows FROM the head.... into the bottom of the bolt.... out the sides of the bolt into the lines to the AVCS and turbocharger...

[alpinefun]

Thanks

[hadvw]

BS. Dino is fine for turbochargers... if you maintain your levels and are religious about OCI.

 

I didn't say it wasn't. But, would you really use the dollar-store no-name special (or whatever Kmart is selling for $0.79/quart) in your turbo? That's what the previous poster was saying - he used whatever was cheapest. And I said that that was ok for NA engines, in my experience. Very few really care about the oil, as long as it's in there. And you can probably go an extra 2-3K without much trouble, depending on the engine. Aren't there some manufacturers now quoting a 15K OCI for NA engines?

 

On the other hand, I'd only put quality dino oil into my turbo. I don't know the exact cost, but I believe good quality dino oil is around $1.50-1.80/quart around here, and Pennzoil Platinum is $4.01 or something.. The extra $10/change don't really bother me that much.. Am I wasting a bit of oil/$$? Probably. But I sleep better at night.

[alpinefun]

There are a lot of useful information about turbochargers in this editorial:

http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm

I am sure it will answer many our questions...

[Guest]

BS. Dino is fine for turbochargers... if you maintain your levels and are religious about OCI.

 

That's a generalization and as such untrue. Not all dinos oil are created equal. It's not just about base oils, but additives as well. Second, depends on the use. If you track a car even a good quality dino may deteriorate too fast to protect engine adequately for a single track event. Many synthetics are not up to tasks, either. Finally the lines between synthetics and dinos are blurred - most synthetics are highly refined dinos. Some dinos have "synthetics" content as well.

 

Finally the fact that engine has not died yet and works "just fine" does not mean it wears at the same rate as another engine running higher quality oil (all other factors being equal).

 

Due to the chronic fuel dilution issues in these motors I personally don't use dinos. If one wants to use dino miniumum SAE 40 should be used (10W40, 15W40). Typical SAE 30 dino is too thin and will dilute to SAE 20 within few hundred miles.

[rao]

Oh noes - regular oil will killz the turbio!!!!!!!!

[JoeFromPA]

I think Unclemat gave a pretty reasoned and appropriate response to a touchy subject.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1473631#Post1473631

 

Here's an example of an LGT that ran a "good" dino 10w30 oil after 3700 miles. Did great.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1465337&fpart=1

 

Here's an example of a 2009 WRX that ran Castrol GTX 10w30 (also a very good dino oil) for 3100 miles and sheared it down to a 20 SAE viscosity oil. GTX is a tough oil too. It still protected the car just fine though, as far as we know.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1454875&fpart=1

 

And here's an example of an 07 Spec.B with UOAs on Rotella T 5w40 synthetic, Castrol GTX, and Castrol 0w30 synthetic. All did quite well run between 3000-5000 miles.

 

My point is that any decent dino or synthetic is going to do just fine in this car for 3000-3500 miles of normal driving. It's at the margins when things start getting hairy. Which is why Subaru decreased the recommended oil change interval on it's turbo engines from 7500 miles to 3750 miles with dino oils.

 

Just my .02

[mccorry]

thanks

 

np!

[mccorry]

I didn't say it wasn't. But, would you really use the dollar-store no-name special (or whatever Kmart is selling for $0.79/quart) in your turbo? That's what the previous poster was saying - he used whatever was cheapest. And I said that that was ok for NA engines, in my experience. Very few really care about the oil, as long as it's in there. And you can probably go an extra 2-3K without much trouble, depending on the engine. Aren't there some manufacturers now quoting a 15K OCI for NA engines?

 

No... what you said was......

 

T,FTFY

 

I'll totally agree (anecdotally, of course :-) with your observation about oil for NA engines. Been there, done that.

 

When there's a $1k piece of hardware called a turbo involved (with a chance to do $2.5K+ of damage), I'll pay a little extra per change for synthetic and piece of mind.

 

You didn't say a good quality Conventional oil... you said sythetic... hence my response.

 

But... we're

[mccorry]

My point is that any decent dino or synthetic is going to do just fine in this car for 3000-3500 miles of normal driving. It's at the margins when things start getting hairy. Which is why Subaru decreased the recommended oil change interval on it's turbo engines from 7500 miles to 3750 miles with dino oils.

 

Just my .02

 

Amen! Well said.

[JoeFromPA]

Thanks. I've gone to the Rao School of Hard Knocks.

[hadvw]

No... what you said was......

 

 

 

You didn't say a good quality Conventional oil... you said sythetic... hence my response.

 

But... we're

 

Just wanted to clarify: I agreed that almost any oil is ok for NA. Then I said: I'll pay extra for synthetic, for MY peace of mind. I didn't say it was required or that it's bad for a turbo to use dino oil. I don't know enough to make that call.

 

However, I could see how what I said could be interpreted as synth is required. My bad - I could have worded it better.