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Haze

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Everything posted by Haze

  1. Plasti-dip or just get rid of the lettering altogether. The back end looks cleaner without it IMHO.
  2. FWIW, these are the tables you're looking for as they appear in RomRaider. This is the tune that was on my OBXT when I got it and I think these are the stock values but not 100% sure on that.
  3. I don't know the answer but I'll throw out a theory for free. My Si drive equipped cars default to whichever of "I" os "S" was used last when they are started. They will not stay in "S#" through a key off/key on cycle. Since you are only seeing 6 psi, I'm guessing your car is stuck in "I". As m sprank noted, all these different modes are is different throttle maps. I would suggest you go into your tune file and copy the "S#" throttle map into the "S" and "I" maps. This will eliminate the Si-drive setup as a potential cause of any issues.
  4. The '08 WRX runs basically the same engine setup as us and didn't come with the oil cooler. I deleted it after spinning a rod bearing on my OBXT 30k miles ago and haven't had any issues. Figured I'd put a new one in at the first oil change if I saw something I didn't like but never did. Very different weather conditions from Florida though.
  5. Not all Japanese cars are Toyota Camrys that will go 400k miles with nothing but oil changes and not all German cars are V10 BMW M5s that habitually eat rod bearings. Mrs. Haze DDs a 2010 Audi A6 3.0T that now has around 110k miles on it. It has proven more reliable than my beloved pair of BPs, gets better fuel economy and rides better. I still don't particularly like driving it but, kept out of reach of an Audi dealer service department, the running costs on it are completely reasonable. My kid has had a similar experience with a Benz E430. Both cars purchased with low miles for short money, I assume because everyone is convinced they would be financially ruined by them.
  6. My OBXT does the same thing. Happens when starting it after sitting outside below roughly 0°F. I've been through everything in the charging system I can think of and haven't found anything wrong. It hasn't become any worse over time and has never stranded me so I gave up trying to fix it.
  7. I was having similar thoughts. If I could have picked this up at a reasonable price, I was going to install all the good mechanical stuff I've collected for my LGT wagon and saved myself some body and paint work. I figured this one might go cheap due to the location and the untouched 114k mile long block and turbo. Turns out I was wrong. Add up the cost of storing it until I'd actually want to go to Alaska to get it, currency conversion, plane ticket there/gas back and import fees/taxes and I'll be ahead by thousands just sticking with the LGT.
  8. Nice but with fees, that's 3.25X what I paid for my 95k mile example three years ago and I was the only person interested enough to go look at it. I'm sure these cars hit the bottom of the depreciation curve and have nowhere to go but up. I refuse to believe they're going up that fast though.
  9. Because new stuff costs a lot of money for a bunch of features I don't want and don't have the tools to fix. As several others have mentioned, these really are some of the last vehicles a DIYer with a decent set of standard tools can keep going. I can't think of a single car newer than 2014 I really want, much less would be willing to drop a years salary on. So I keep two of these BPs around. What are the odds they'll both break at the same time? OK, don't answer that.
  10. Width and offset play together to determine where the wheel lip sits. A 7.5" wide, 42mm offset wheel would put the outside lip in pretty much the same place as an 8" wide 48mm offset wheel. You definitely need to watch how low you go on an OB as a flush sidewall won't tuck behind the fender flare unless you do some cutting. 18x8" ET40 with 225/40s and stock Legacy ride height is about as aggressive as I would try unless I was prepared to make extra clearance. IIRC, some have gone as far as 18x9" ET30 with 245/40s but they had some combination of taller ride height, out of spec negative camber and panel trimming.
  11. Just to clarify, the pen is pointing to where the oil seal sits. The problem is the thin piece protruding between the crank and block a bit further back.
  12. LGT and OBXT long blocks are identical from 07-09. IIRC, 08-14 WRX long blocks are also basically the same. That said, a used motor is always a bit of a gamble. If you want to keep the car, a new OEM short block is probably the way to go. Alternatively, you can get a new crank, rod, gasket set and bearings, bust out the tools and have it back together for under $1k. I'm currently doing it this way on my LGT after doing the same with my OBXT a few years ago. That was the first time I had ever put an engine together from scratch and it's still going strong 27000 miles later. It's not as difficult as some people make it sound.
  13. That's exactly what it is. Not sure what could cause that other than the bearing shell being improperly installed in the first place. There's a small tab on the back side of the bearing that fits into a corresponding notch in the block. That tab would have to be either crushed or sheared off for the shell to sit where it is.
  14. FWIW, all these 4.9 wideband sensors are the same other than pigtail length and occasionally the wiring connector. I got a stock sensor for a 3.5 Ecoboost F-150 from Rockauto for the Innovate WB in my XT. I think it cost me about half of what getting one through Innovate would have. Ran it through the free air calibration sequence and it works fine.
  15. I had a bunch of exterior lighting issues on my '07 with similar wiring hackery. That small plug under the steering column is for the park light switch. I can't remember what the idea behind that modification is but it actually wasn't the main cause of my lighting issues. There's a bundle of wires tucked into the left front fender above the wheel well liner. In there is a solder joint that breaks down over time that I had to fix. Unfortunately, I don't remember what color that wire is.
  16. Do a search for "Volvo electric power steering conversion ". There were a bunch of Volvos that used an electrically driven hydraulic PS pump that can be adapted to pretty much anything to replace the belt driven pump. You would still have hydraulic lines but may be able to route them somewhere out of your way. Combine that pump with the STi rack and you have most of the advantages of a full EPAS setup with next to none of the problems of getting it to work.
  17. Sold for a shade over $12k with fees... roughly 130% more than I paid for my 95k mile manual trans '08 XT in 2020. Looks like this bubble isn't gonna burst as easily as I thought.
  18. Agreed. The turbo and short block being replaced at different times raises a flag. Might be an issue, might not. Being an '05 with some one-year-only oddities becomes more of a concern as these cars age. Biggest deterrent for me on this one is the 5EAT. I love my turbo BPs but a big part of that is because they came with a stick and most comparable cars didn’t. If I want a 2-pedal car, that opens up a lot of other options.
  19. If you don't like it, don't buy it. Engine swaps are as hard to undo as they were to do in the first place. Harder if heavy fabrication was needed to fit the new engine. Nothing wrong with air suspension done properly. Unfortunately for every good air ride setup on the road, there are many that are terrible. I wouldn't count on being able to undo the body mods.
  20. Sounds like it was loved, just know that there are no guarantees with a turbo EJ. My '08 OBXT spun a rod bearing at 97k miles despite every indication the car had been decently cared for while my obviously abused LGT made it to 160k before succumbing to low compression on 2 cylinders. The timing belt on this car is getting on in age. It's a bit odd they didn't just replace it while doing the water pump. Selling it shortly after replacing the turbo would make me wonder if there was a bunch of metal in the oil and they're unloading it before the knocking starts.
  21. Yes, but they are also single turbo so the fact that the exhaust splits again is dumb. Just my opinion.
  22. Is there a reason for this other than personal preference / desire to keep the car as Subaru built it? Do these cars sound better with dual tips? Seeing dual tips on a car that I know has a single exhaust manifold (ie. inline engine) and/or single turbo kinda bothers me. It's cheaper, lighter and likely less restricteive to just continue with a larger single once the exhaust is already merged. The previous owner of my LGT put a single exit on it and I was quite happy about that. I admittedly haven't driven it over 10 MPH yet though so maybe I'm in for an unpleasant surprise?
  23. I couldn't tell you what it's worth but there's a ton of places you can look that up. I can tell you that rarity doesn't necessarily equal big money valuations. The 5th gen GT is kinda rare because much of the enthusiast base Subaru built up with the 4th gen GT didn't like it and therefore didn't buy one. From what I see, they aren't developing a following as they age either. If you like the car, cool, enjoy it. I wouldn't count on it becoming a collector item though.
  24. Nice car, looks to be one of the coveted non-Limited GTs with cloth seats and no sunroof. I would suggest you keep the Avalon and learn everything you can about turbo Subarus. If you have to rely on a shop for everything with one of these, it can get expensive. It's also not a bad idea to have a backup car when you're rolling in an 18 year old LGT that you have recently done a lot of work to.
  25. Varies by market. U.S. offerings according to the brochure I downloaded were: 2.5i in base, SE and Limited trims 2.5 GT Limited 2.5 GT Spec B 3.0R Limited All sedan only. Even Canada got significantly different offerings from U.S.: Wagon still available for 2.5i and 2.5 GT Limited, 2.5i SE replaced by 2.5i Touring and 3.0R not available at all. I have no idea what was offered in Europe, Japan, Australia etc.
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