What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Max Capacity]

12 hours ago, whitexc said:

Not sure I would do it again. I have a set for my new Ram in the toolbox and they will not be going on that. 

Next up is figure out why my traction control and ABS lights are coming on. No codes presently. I guess I can check for codes with it running and when the lights are on. They come and go, which doesn't bother me so much but the cruise not working when they are on sucks, especially with some highway time coming up next week.  This started just after wheel bearing install. 

I'd check the most recent Hub replacement to see if that sensor is worn. I found my left rear sensor was chafing the hub and wearing it thin years ago. A couple of years back the right rear had the same issue. I'll try and find the pictures.

I think I put a thread in the DIY forum.   Just updated that thread, 

 

[whitexc]

4 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

So after only two years that $65.00 film cover failed ?  Have you spoken to the manufacture about it ? I thought that stuff was supposed to be great ?

 

Or is it something to do with the aftermarket lights ?

So shame on me for not taking good before pics. I was in one of those moods the other day, walked by and peeled the driver side off as the fog/haze was bothering me and I knew the headlights were fine being fairly new. Laminx says they have a 5 yr warranty but I have not read the fine print. They could blame road salt, car wash chemicals.....jusy about anything. I won't bad mouth their product but I also won't install it again, even the stuff I already bought. 

[BoozeRS05]

I love how I take my wagon out for an ass whooping and MPG goes up.

Leave my house and I’m at 19.2mpg, head straight into the mountains for about 45 min of boosting, and when I parked it back in the garage I’m at 19.8mpg.

 

[whitexc]

Pulled front wheels and cleaned/checked both wheel speed  sensors. They had a slight amount of rust and residue but looked fine when wiped off. Cleaned their insert points and reinstalled. Lights came right back on. I will check the rears next. Maybe tomorrow or this weekend. I could care less about the lights but I want cruise. 

Also checked fuses under the hood.  All good there. 

I notice every so often when the lights are off that under very light brake pedal pressure I will get ABS feedback, as in it attempting to do its job. Did a full brake job about 6k ago which would have sent new fluid through the entire system. If there was an issue I think I would have noticed it prior to the wheel bearing/hub replacement that happened about 2k ago. This has all started since then coincidentally or not. 

Edited August 4, 2022 by whitexc

[Max Capacity]

The ABS sensor has nothing to do with brake fluid.

Most auto parts store will read the CEL for free, they should be able to tell you which "C" code you have.

That will tell you which sensor is the issue.

[Max Capacity]

C0101 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (Broken wire, short) Rear ABS wheel speed sensor RH
C0102 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (Broken wire, short) Rear ABS wheel speed sensor LH
C0103 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (Broken wire, short) Front ABS wheel speed sensor RH
C0104 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (Broken wire, short) Front ABS wheel speed sensor LH
C0105 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) Abnormal signal of rear ABS wheel speed sensor RH
C0106 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) Abnormal signal of rear ABS wheel speed sensor LH
C0107 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) Abnormal signal of front ABS wheel speed sensor RH
C0108 ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) Abnormal signal of front ABS wheel speed sensor LH

[whitexc]

21 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

The ABS sensor has nothing to do with brake fluid.

Most auto parts store will read the CEL for free, they should be able to tell you which "C" code you have.

That will tell you which sensor is the issue.

Thanks Max. I get the fluid and wheel sensors not being "connected". I was more implying a possible issue with the ABS module or something on the more expensive end of the spectrum. This car would not surprise me one bit in that fashion!  

Going to swing by the shop on my way home today and have them scan for codes. Fingers crossed its just a wheel sensor. 

[solidxsnake]

You can also read the codes directly from the dash. I forget the exact procedure, but it's something like turn the key to ON, flip the headlights on, press the dash cycle button (the one that cycles the info display between the different pages) 4 times, flip the headlights off, dash button 4x times, headlight back on, etc. It will cycle through P codes (ECU), C codes (ABS/VDC), and T codes if you have a 5EAT.

edit: Guess it's the whole 4th gen Legacy that can do it:

 

[Max Capacity]

Or this,

 

[SubOperator]

A little late to the party but I do use LaminX on headlights and they work great for me. On my second set now on my 05, bought in 2007. Installed a set recently on wife's 2022 MDX.

Once removed all that abuse they took will go straight to headlights.

 

 

[KZJonny]

Got my car back from the alignment shop, and finally got to give it a real spirited drive. I'm almost 200km into all the installed new parts, and nothing is leaking after a week or so, which is encouraging, so I decided it was time to lean on it a little.

Probably already well know around here, but JMP's work on the Custom VF40 is crazy good. I know it's not a big turbo, so I'm not competing with the track crowd, but it is an entirely different animal than the stock VF40 I sent him. Just have to pump his tires a little.

Aside from that, I am loving the sounds of the EL headers and catback, and the improved ride quality having ditched the Pink springs and installed a set of Spec B Bilstein's with 'stock' springs.

I did pick up a P0021, but I don't see unusual levels of knock, and DAM is pretty solid, so until I can pull out the oil feed banjo and see if there is an oil filter in it, I'll keep a close eye on it. (Turbo filter is removed)

I've always really enjoyed driving this car, but I am pretty surprised at the how dramatic the change is with a free-flowing exhaust and the JMP turbo. Can't wait to start tuning to really take advantage of it.

[seanyb505]

Switch the ocv solenoids between sides, see if the code follows. P0011 and p0021 are nothing to mess around with. Can be a precursor to an oil pressure problem or blockage. 

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, seanyb505 said:

Switch the ocv solenoids between sides, see if the code follows. P0011 and p0021 are nothing to mess around with. Can be a precursor to an oil pressure problem or blockage. 

Sage advice, will do. The OCV(s? I forget) are only a couple thousand kms old, but I am 99% I got them from Rockauto, not OEM.

I will see if the code follows. If so, are these something that has a bad rap from aftermarket supply? I mean, it's just a solenoid, seems like a reasonably easy thing to make.

I was waiting until I have time to replace the turbo oil feed with a filtered one to inspect the banjo, but I will consider parking the car if chasing down the source of the CEL doesn't get me anywhere.... I seem to recall reading that a dirty filter on the OCV supply can cause this problem, also I just want the filter gone.

 

Edit: I can do one better. I've got a parts engine hanging around. I'll swap sides, clear codes and go for a drive. If the code follows, I'll clean one of the OCVs from the donor motor up and swap that in. Filter comes out this weekend now as well to rule that out.

Thanks again for the headsup. I did a little reading and I can see that P0011 and P0021 are linked to some more serious consequences than I would have expected for a AVCS advance error.

Edited August 5, 2022 by KZJonny

[whitexc]

Changed RR wheel speed sensor to rid of the ABS and TC lights last night. Thanks to those that chimed in. 

[whitexc]

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Thanks again for the headsup. I did a little reading and I can see that P0011 and P0021 are linked to some more serious consequences than I would have expected for a AVCS advance error.

These are some fussy bitche$ we have.....

[BoozeRS05]

Monitor VVT right and VVT left 

They should be basically equal at all times, and if you see a discrepancy btw them you’ll want to fix it asap

[KZJonny]

25 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

Monitor VVT right and VVT left 

They should be basically equal at all times, and if you see a discrepancy btw them you’ll want to fix it asap

So the synopsis is that after an amount of money I don’t care to think about and dozens of hours of work, she’s laid low by a single CEL code.

Back under the knife this weekend it is then. Hah!

Well, we had a good 24 hours at least.

I’ll do all the prep work and monitor vvt and see if the CEL moves with the OCV. Thanks all.

[BoozeRS05]

I see a bunch of aftermarket options, but I personally wouldn’t use anything except the OEM oil control valves. 

They are easy to get to at least, super easy to remove, it’s like one clip and one 12mm bolt per side. They click into place, so they need a little tug at first, but you can also rotate them when pulling and they slide right out.

[Infosecdad]

6 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I see a bunch of aftermarket options, but I personally wouldn’t use anything except the OEM oil control valves. 

They are easy to get to at least, super easy to remove, it’s like one clip and one 12mm bolt per side. They click into place, so they need a little tug at first, but you can also rotate them when pulling and they slide right out.

OEM only for OCVs, we’ve had a few members with new aftermarket OCVs that were failing new. 

[BridNasty]

Finally reunited with my legacy after my deployment!! I got tired of waiting on Subaru Corporate to see whether they'll cover my rusted brake lines from the faulty recall. I ended up driving it on the e-brake for 3 miles, digging in and removing the crusty lines today. I will be finishing up over the weekend with NiCu lines and fresh fittings from thdisc's. seat to the rear discs. (Write-up inbound)

I also installed one side of rain gaurds. I can't wait to get this thing roadworthy again.

[pksystems]

Pulled it out of my carport that is 1 foot wider then the car and finally gave it a proper clean on the inside.  I bought it, and it hasn't moved from the carport since.  It's now in the garage and I can start work on my scrap metal 3" downpipe.

Pulled these out of the trunk.  I hope I can fit them under 17's.

The black calipers are 2 piston Brembo's off a Merc SUV.  They need a 1/4" spacer in the middle to make the throat wide enough for Legacy GT rear rotors, and an adapter to mount them.   Probably easier to do the mod's then to find STi rear brembo's in Canada.   These calipers were all $14 each at the junkyard.

 

Edited August 6, 2022 by pksystems

[KZJonny]

Swapped OCVs to opposite sides after  the p0021 mentioned earlier.

Code moved along with the junk bin solenoid. AP showed it sticking at 54% duty while the other was constantly adjusting.

Thankfully the parts engine has some Subaru OCVs to pillage.

Also got a half tank of 94 for the price of regular. Nice bonus.

[Gex]

Track wagon took second place in the Legacy category at BigNW Subaru show. Holy crap was it hot and so many people. Was fun to have it out though. 

Edited August 8, 2022 by Gex

[Infosecdad]

Would love to make BigNW some year...

650 mile round trip to my Dad's in MO, avg 26-27 mpg and burned very little oil. 

Still loving how quiet the cable shifter is and the 800 RPM reduction when cruising because of the 6MT.

Washed the car, cleaned out a dozen grasshoppers and dragonflies from the scoop/TMIC.

Can barely move now, going to bed

[amm203]

Liking the redesign with the website! Have been busy with life and work but swapped FSB bushings recently to fix a squeak. Other than that, enjoying the summer roads with this awesome machine