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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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On 8/6/2022 at 7:31 PM, KZJonny said:

Swapped OCVs to opposite sides after  the p0021 mentioned earlier.

Code moved along with the junk bin solenoid. AP showed it sticking at 54% duty while the other was constantly adjusting.

Thankfully the parts engine has some Subaru OCVs to pillage.

Also got a half tank of 94 for the price of regular. Nice bonus.

Hopefully that’ll do it. I’ve got one I was gonna offer if you needed it. Could probably use a good cleaning since it’s even sitting around  in the garage but glad you’ve got a spare. This basically killed my original motor…got 22k now on a replacement. 

 

On 8/7/2022 at 8:29 PM, Gex said:

49959F5B-33DC-4583-A795-829783E79EFC.thumb.jpeg.8c4b4047d2ffa186e5d779391995a9a8.jpegTrack wagon took second place in the Legacy category at BigNW Subaru show. Holy crap was it hot and so many people. Was fun to have it out though. 

Congrats on the win Gex-well earned! Your wagon is awesome. Way to represent legacy wagons, would love to go to MidwestFest sometime. 

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13 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Hopefully that’ll do it. I’ve got one I was gonna offer if you needed it. Could probably use a good cleaning since it’s even sitting around  in the garage but glad you’ve got a spare. This basically killed my original motor…got 22k now on a replacement. 

Thanks for the offer!

Been a couple days now with the scavenged OCVs and no CEL so far. Monitoring the OCV duty cycles, they're staying within a couple percent of each other at all times, so I am taking that as a good sign. The aftermarket ones would stray wildly from one another, and I only took a couple of spins around the block before getting a code.

I was thinking it could be useful to have a thread in the Maintenance folder outlining which parts, practically speaking *must* be replaced with OEM. If there was enough feedback on it, it could be a useful reference for people getting started on working on their own car. I was able to glean alot of that sort of info along the way with much reading of various threads over time, but if knowing where you can save a buck, vs. risking your engine with a sub-par part could prevent someone from doing some serious damage I think it may be worth it?

I suppose many would make a case that everything should be OEM, but I think some of the ones that I see come up alot are things like thermostats and as was recently pointed out to me, turbo oil feed hardlines (vs. braid) for stock turbos... Just a thought.

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Anyone familiar with a intermittent clicking noise coming from the dash/steering column?

Never heard it before, but the other day I started my wagon up and I could hear like a tapping noise in the dash. Almost like the cabin vent door was caught on something. It’s constant, but intermittent.

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13 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

Anyone familiar with a intermittent clicking noise coming from the dash/steering column?

Never heard it before, but the other day I started my wagon up and I could hear like a tapping noise in the dash. Almost like the cabin vent door was caught on something. It’s constant, but intermittent.

You nailed it. Vent door actuators. Mine does the same thing, that plus a noise like a coffee percolator some days. I believe jaylew has all the parts listed in his build thread somewhere, and it's also been described how many (all?) can be replaced without entirely removing the dash.

Some have pulled them apart to clean and re-lubricate, while others just replaced everything since the job even without removing the dash supposedly isn't great fun. I'm planning on trying out the in-dash replacement and rebuilding method when I have more time to spare.

Edited by KZJonny
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Is that the job where some of the actuators are no longer available new? 

On topic, my driver's seat is slowing turning to garbage. My sweet wife even went as far to end up talking to SBT on a local Facebook group trying to find a replacement lol! 

Anyway I've got two ideas to remedy this:

- Junkyard - could I remove just the bottom cover of the seat or are they pretty inseparable?

- Copart to get an entire black interior. I'm sure this would end up being way more difficult logistically than simply "buying a crashed car." Does anyone have any experience with that? I might be able to do it through a shop, as it sounds like regular Joe's can't just sign up and bid. 

Edited by seanyb505
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8 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

Is that the job where some of the actuators are no longer available new? 

On topic, my driver's seat is slowing turning to garbage. My sweet wife even went as far to end up talking to SBT on a local Facebook group trying to find a replacement lol! 

Anyway I've got two ideas to remedy this:

- Junkyard - could I remove just the bottom cover of the seat or are they pretty inseparable?

- Copart to get an entire black interior. I'm sure this would end up being way more difficult logistically than simply "buying a crashed car." Does anyone have any experience with that? I might be able to do it through a shop, as it sounds like regular Joe's can't just sign up and bid. 

 

I am in the same boat. Driver side seat bottom cushion has a large tear :(. So ugly.

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So the seat bottom cushion can be replaced if it is that bad. Just get familiar with the use of hog rings and get read to cut your hands a bit. Years ago I bid on a copart car to swap from tan to black interior. Luckily I lost that bid because I found a GT wagon in the junk yard in mint condition and gutted that. Way less expensive and less hassle

As for the vent actuators. I don't see how the left side temp control can be replaced with dash in. Also all superseded part numbers work. I have a mix of the 07-09 and 05 part number actuators and have had no issue (all new actuators and pleasantly quiet). Just order them all, pull the dash and knock it out at once. Dash isn't difficult to pull imo. Link below on the thread and i cover it a little in my build thread too

 

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Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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With my local junkyard jacking prices, a copart car suddenly isn't that far off. I've got no idea what crashed up limited outback 2.5i's are finally selling for, but for the current bid prices near me, I'd pay a slight premium to have the whole donor in my garage until I'm finished with the project. 

But yeah I'll probably attempt to grab a cover that's even a little bit better than my current fart laden perforated rags for $20, then relegate the black interior dream to the attic.  

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Hey, appreciate the info with my vent doors! You guys are great! I have a brand new dash from Subaru in my parts pile, so I’ll be in there eventually to do that.

Also, my solution to my driver seat bottom shredding was to replace it. 2010 WRX seat plug and play for the driver side, not as simple for the passenger side, but I don’t care if they don’t match. Got this guy for $70 at the local junk yard.

Although I do get a lot of - love your WRX now :(

0D79D722-E7BD-4C30-AE2C-C8D4F9683363.jpeg

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So decide to get the car out today, ran back inside when the car was running in the garage, then ran back out and saw what I thought was a puddle of fuel before I went to work. I shut the car down grabbed my fire extinguisher. well I was not fuel, but I have no idea where this line popped off of. It smelled like some type of fluid. I was fixing my IC pipe before so not sure if I knocked it off.

 

Does anyone know where I connect this back to? Is it brake fluid, clutch fluid? It did dry up very fast of the garage floor. No fuel smell. Thanks for the help. I pulled the hose up cause it was down below. I will not driving it till I figure it out. 😪

legaypart.jpg

Edited by NORULZleggy
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If it evaporated quickly, then it's not brake or clutch fluid. That would've hung around forever. No fuel smells rules out gasoline presumably...

Can you follow the hose back to it's source? Wrong side of the car from what I can see, but maybe it was the condensate drain from the HVAC system? In which case, it would just be water draining away, so no big deal...

I might've guessed fuel pressure regulator boost reference hose, but it looks like that's all non-stock from the photo?

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On 8/9/2022 at 10:20 AM, KZJonny said:

You nailed it. Vent door actuators. Mine does the same thing, that plus a noise like a coffee percolator some days. I believe jaylew has all the parts listed in his build thread somewhere, and it's also been described how many (all?) can be replaced without entirely removing the dash.

Some have pulled them apart to clean and re-lubricate, while others just replaced everything since the job even without removing the dash supposedly isn't great fun. I'm planning on trying out the in-dash replacement and rebuilding method when I have more time to spare.

Mine started doing the same thing yesterday. Really been doing it the last few months but yesterday became waaaay louder than it’s been so now I know they’re on their way out and I’m on borrowed time . 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤬🤬🤬
 

ps-just saw previous posts related to this. Thank you everyone for providing info it’s greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

I checked my local dealer and seems like all 4 are still available? I don’t know much about this at this point, but I need to do some more digging. There’s a lot of parts in the HVAC inner control assy that have been discontinued, but I’m not sure at this point which are needed for the fix. 

Edited by SoobyDoobyDoo
Thanking people for invaluable info in this awesome car community!
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23 hours ago, jaylew said:

So the seat bottom cushion can be replaced if it is that bad. Just get familiar with the use of hog rings and get read to cut your hands a bit. Years ago I bid on a copart car to swap from tan to black interior. Luckily I lost that bid because I found a GT wagon in the junk yard in mint condition and gutted that. Way less expensive and less hassle

Now that I think about it, one could find a descent shape front passenger seat bottom cushion cover, and go through the hassle to remove it and install it on the driver side.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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36 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

Are the contours identical? Probably a great option considering reduced butt mileage 

 

I can't tell any difference. I would swap the whole cushion and cover but I understand you can't really do that due to the passenger weight sensor thingy.

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1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

If it evaporated quickly, then it's not brake or clutch fluid. That would've hung around forever. No fuel smells rules out gasoline presumably...

Can you follow the hose back to it's source? Wrong side of the car from what I can see, but maybe it was the condensate drain from the HVAC system? In which case, it would just be water draining away, so no big deal...

I might've guessed fuel pressure regulator boost reference hose, but it looks like that's all non-stock from the photo?

 

Found it it was the old vapor hose from the top of the gas tank that ran to my old fuel rails. Now that I have full fuel system I do not need it. I was told by the shop that is was nothing to worry about , so I am going to take car of it tonight. Thanks

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21 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

Hey, appreciate the info with my vent doors! You guys are great! I have a brand new dash from Subaru in my parts pile, so I’ll be in there eventually to do that.

Also, my solution to my driver seat bottom shredding was to replace it. 2010 WRX seat plug and play for the driver side, not as simple for the passenger side, but I don’t care if they don’t match. Got this guy for $70 at the local junk yard.

Although I do get a lot of - love your WRX now :(

0D79D722-E7BD-4C30-AE2C-C8D4F9683363.jpeg

 

Plug & Play even for the airbag?

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22 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

Hey, appreciate the info with my vent doors! You guys are great! I have a brand new dash from Subaru in my parts pile, so I’ll be in there eventually to do that.

Also, my solution to my driver seat bottom shredding was to replace it. 2010 WRX seat plug and play for the driver side, not as simple for the passenger side, but I don’t care if they don’t match. Got this guy for $70 at the local junk yard.

Although I do get a lot of - love your WRX now :(

0D79D722-E7BD-4C30-AE2C-C8D4F9683363.jpeg

I must do this. I really miss my 09 WRX and the seats in it. Is the height the same and is it just a direct bolt in?

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Yeah, the driver seat requires swapping seat belt buckle and I think move over the seat position sensor. Driver side is really easy, airbag is direct plug in and so is the heater I believe (my WRX heater is broken). One guy on YT has solid walkthroughs for both front seats into a wagon. A functional airbag is the tricky part for the passenger seat I think.

I’m 6’1” and 170, so I move all around in the LGT seats. Not this seat, it holds me in waaay better. No problem for me losing the electric adjuster, found a manual setting that is great and I’m pretty tall. My WRX seat moves manually up/down, forward and back, same basic position and direct bolt in place as LGT. 

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On 8/9/2022 at 1:39 PM, seanyb505 said:

https://katzkin.com/what-do-you-drive/subaru-legacy-leather-seats/

Unfortunately they only go back to 2007 so us 2005 folk are sol 😆

I didn't bother with looking for pricing, but I'm pretty sure they're stupid expensive relative to the rest of our cars. 

 

I did not see your post. Still getting used to the new look of this site..

Isn't the 2007 bottom seat cushion essentially the same size and dimension as our MY? I would think so. I own a 2005 and 2006. Only diff between the two are the head rest.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Just asking, with all the post above, about swapping the seats, isn't there a thread about that somewhere else on this Forum ?

If not, maybe the DIY forum would be a good place to start one.

 

If the title for that thread is clear about swapping seats, it would be easy to find in a Google search.

 

I did a Google search last week asking, how to replace oil pan on a 2005 subaru legacy and the thread from here from 2012, popped up. 

 

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Ugh. Less that I did a thing, and more that a thing happened…

The rearmost exhaust hangers are both pretty rusty, and the passenger side (clearly) was pretty rough. I could see this when doing the exhaust install, but kept my fingers crossed it would be fine until the Fall when I take the GT off the road. Nope.

So now I need to find time to fabricate a new one and (weld?) it in. Which actually got me thinking that probably some SS nutserts and stainless hex cap screws would be sufficient and probably easier than taking a shower in sparks underneath the car. I can fab up a new hanger bracket from SS plate and rod…. Anyone else been down this road before?

405A583B-334F-453A-9D2C-3F095296839A.jpeg

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