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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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16 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

Just asking, with all the post above, about swapping the seats, isn't there a thread about that somewhere else on this Forum ?

If not, maybe the DIY forum would be a good place to start one.

 

If the title for that thread is clear about swapping seats, it would be easy to find in a Google search.

 

I did a Google search last week asking, how to replace oil pan on a 2005 subaru legacy and the thread from here from 2012, popped up. 

 

 

I am lazy you know :spin:

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Not so much lazy, I just enjoy ideating with the awesome longtime members on here. I'm sure there is a walk through somewhere. But "doooods my seat is broke to broken wat do???" is easier to post and get some general guidance before spending an hour reading a 2013 thread, if that thread still exists. 

 

ARE YOU HAPPY NOW I HAD TO SEARCH TO FIND THIS  😆

 

Edited by seanyb505
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14 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Ugh. Less that I did a thing, and more that a thing happened…

The rearmost exhaust hangers are both pretty rusty, and the passenger side (clearly) was pretty rough. I could see this when doing the exhaust install, but kept my fingers crossed it would be fine until the Fall when I take the GT off the road. Nope.

So now I need to find time to fabricate a new one and (weld?) it in. Which actually got me thinking that probably some SS nutserts and stainless hex cap screws would be sufficient and probably easier than taking a shower in sparks underneath the car. I can fab up a new hanger bracket from SS plate and rod…. Anyone else been down this road before?

405A583B-334F-453A-9D2C-3F095296839A.jpeg

I'm in the same boat. The right side bracket rusted off a few weeks ago. Mine is not hanging down like yours is. But yeah, a piece of metal strapping and self taping screws would be fine for the 18y/o car. Welding would mean you have to remove items from the back side. The guy at the muffler shop told me they can't do that repair based on what happened once when they tried...can you say fire.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Started welding up my downpipe.

While under the car I noticed my passenger motor mount is blown.  Picked up a pair of new oem WRX mounts/plates off FB marketplace for $40.  I will probably fill up the sides with some urethane to stiffen them up a bit.

While still under the car I noticed the rear gaskets at the muffler joints have disintegrated and will need to be replaced.

Also noticed that I'm missing the passenger side undertray rock shield.  Anyone know if Outbacks have these?  Junk yards rarely get Legacy's here, but outbacks roll through frequently.

Edited by pksystems
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32 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

I'm in the same boat. The right side bracket rusted off a few weeks ago. Mine is not hanging down like yours is. But yeah, a piece of metal strapping and self taping screws would be fine for the 18y/o car. Welding would mean you have to remove items from the back side. The guy at the muffler shop told me they can't do that repair based on what happened once when they tried...can you say fire.

You're not wrong, and given the age of the car, I would normally agree. (Parts of my OB exhaust are hanging from steel zip ties...
In this case tho, I *really* like this car, and am in the process of ah.... "derusting" as much of it as I can, like pulling parts to sandblast and re-paint with POR, so I want to do better than some All-Round and tech screws.

When I do manage to make up something that works well and can be fitted up, I'll send you some photos, if you're interested. Hell, it might be easy enough to make a second while I am at it, if you might need one soon. (Mine sags so badly because of how the Borla exhaust is built, the muffler pipes are clamped, not flanged, so it rotates pretty freely without that hanger there....)

This actually got me thinking that maybe the rusted out rad supports in the front that I am going to replace before next season could also be re-installed without welding. I don't think they are a significant structural part of the front end, and 3-4 nutserts on either side should be just as strong as the same number of spot welds currently holding it in. If all done with SS parts, it would then be removeable if needed, and no worry about rusting fasteners in future....hmmm.

 

67683992253--D471880B-5750-4989-90B8-F752396D332F.jpg

67682778306--91159FC9-33B8-4316-88D1-7511F236F089.jpg

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Is the driver's side rsb mount bent or is that a photo illusion?

I ordered new tires for mine. I've had really bad luck with punctures on this set of half worn Michelin pilot sport as4. One tire has had a plug done 3 times and it's back to losing 15-20 psi daily. They were a pretty good tire. I never tracked the car, and I could really only tell I was near or at the limit a handful of times over the last 2 years. They also did well enough in light snow. Had to really ham fist it to get out of control. Unfortunately they're on backorder through my source and retail is an undesirable price lol.

New tires will be 225/45/17 Continental dws 06+. These were the comparison tire for the psas4, and I know certain test parameters had to be changed when comparing head on to give the desired psas4 victory. I'm stepping down in width to hopefully reduce rubbing under harder compressions. I know I'm giving up ultimate grip in the most extreme conditions with an "all season" but this gen of tires are on par with summer tires when the car was new. Plus at $115 a tire I can't complain. 

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1 hour ago, seanyb505 said:

Is the driver's side rsb mount bent or is that a photo illusion?

Yeah, a little. It was the best I could do to straighten it with a big prybar and a 3lb hammer. It's dented up a bit, but damned close to being "right". That subframe came out of a donor car, so I could prep and paint at my leisure, then do all the work (tank, filler neck, evap lines, Spec B trailing arms, etc.....) at the same time, rather than having to spend several weekends piecing it all back together. Donor car was in a minorish rear end collision, and the one bracket was bent, but that was the sum of the damage.

I've got a set of Cusco RSB braces which I think will pull it a touch straighter when installed, but in either case, for a non-track car, I think the braces being out by 1/2" from each other won't effect much. Tell me if I am wrong, and I can probably get them close, but for the moment, I've got bigger problems, hah!

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Installed a new-used ebrake handle assembly today.

Couple months ago I tried to install a, too small, carbon fiber ebrake handle from a newer WRX, and straight up destroyed my assembly muscling it around. So nice to have a functional ebrake again

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12 hours ago, pksystems said:

Also noticed that I'm missing the passenger side undertray rock shield.  Anyone know if Outbacks have these?  Junk yards rarely get Legacy's here, but outbacks roll through frequently.

If you are talking about those long black plastic trays on each side of underbody - my 05 LGT Wagon came without them and I did not even know these parts existed until I bought another 05 LGT from a forum member here for 6 speed swap. FWIW my oldest son 05 NA OB also came without them.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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On 8/9/2022 at 7:07 AM, BoozeRS05 said:

Anyone familiar with a intermittent clicking noise coming from the dash/steering column?

Never heard it before, but the other day I started my wagon up and I could hear like a tapping noise in the dash. Almost like the cabin vent door was caught on something. It’s constant, but intermittent.

That clicking noise is almost certainly the actuator arm not being able to move anymore. The driver's side one is an absolute pain the the rear, so I'm sorry about that.

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So after refreshing my A/C refrigerant and enjoying A/C it seems that the compressor clutch has gone out.

I found this thread - https://www.legacygt.com/topic/73566-ac-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough/

I was wondering if there might be good trouble shooting thread for seeing if it might be something else before I try and get a replacement clutch (if the clutch can be replaced for an 08).

And since the hood was open I added half a quart of oil.

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Alright, both of the cabin fuses are good.

I checked the voltage at the compressor connector and it never changed when I turned the A/C on or off.

From another thread, the wonderful Max Capacity has recommended replacing the engine compartment relay.

I found the relay, but how do I get it out? It seems to have two release tabs on the sides but it doesn't seem to wanna come out when I pry them outward and pull up on the relay.

 

I watched a bit of this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv6tI7CyztE

And I tried to find the green test connectors but I seem to have a panel above the pedals and looking under the steering wheel, I couldn't seem to find them like I can find them for my '94. So right now I'm hoping it's the relay.

Found the test connectors up in the passenger side footwell...

The compressor relay is working, and compressor clutch cycled about 4 times then stopped cycling. If I can get a relay for a reasonable price, I'll see if maybe it's just working and then failing after a few cycles before moving on to the compressor clutch.

Edited by Smithcraft
More and more, but now it's time for bed!
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1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Last minute brainstorming re: Wheels.

My O.Z.s are exhibiting some signs or road rash. There's zero curbing, scratches or gouges, just the spokes have some of the paint being blasted away after 5 years of daily use. New tires are scheduled to be delivered today, and potentially mounted depending on my schedule. Should I stick the new tires on my stockers, thereby giving me a ton of time to actually refinish the OZs? I figure I'd spend some time cleaning and prepping them leading into fall, and spend a weekend or two actually rattle canning them. Or using a spray gun/compressor.

Potential Pros:-

- Hawt Subaru gold wheels, or

- Just a better, brighter silver instead of a blegh metallic gray they came with

- Nice looking wheels again

- Best chance to have tires off wheels for another few years being between tire sets now

Potential Cons

- Cost. Hate spending money on visual only. I'm probably looking at $150-200 to do it right.

- Stockers look like poo compared to OZs. I don't know how long they'd be on there

- Poor backyard quality - I'll be pretty bummed putting lug nuts on it the first time and watching all the paint peel away. Or orange peel.

- Wife may think I'm lame for having a black car with gold wheels.

 

I think the cost is the most painful part. This is a last minute thought I had, but there's like 5-10 automotive and household projects for that kind of money that have been on the back burner for months and years. It would really need to be worth it..

 

Edited by seanyb505
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4 hours ago, Smithcraft said:

Alright, both of the cabin fuses are good.

I checked the voltage at the compressor connector and it never changed when I turned the A/C on or off.

From another thread, the wonderful Max Capacity has recommended replacing the engine compartment relay.

I found the relay, but how do I get it out? It seems to have two release tabs on the sides but it doesn't seem to wanna come out when I pry them outward and pull up on the relay.

 

I watched a bit of this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv6tI7CyztE

And I tried to find the green test connectors but I seem to have a panel above the pedals and looking under the steering wheel, I couldn't seem to find them like I can find them for my '94. So right now I'm hoping it's the relay.

Found the test connectors up in the passenger side footwell...

The compressor relay is working, and compressor clutch cycled about 4 times then stopped cycling. If I can get a relay for a reasonable price, I'll see if maybe it's just working and then failing after a few cycles before moving on to the compressor clutch.

That relay just pulls out.  No trick to doing it. Your in the under hood fuse box by the battery, correct ? The cover tells you which one it is. Here are my 05' and 09's boxes and covers

first photo is the 09 and the last photo is the 09 See that top, blue relay in the lower right corner.

DSCN8548.JPG

DSCN8549.JPG

DSCN8542.JPG

DSCN8546.JPG

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Found an Invidia catless downpipe for cheap on FB Marketplace, so I stopped working on my scrap metal one. :)

Received my Amazon 1L catchcans.  They have some baffling, but I will try to add another pipe with a bend on the inside of the fittings.

Picked up an Autometer boost gauge for $10 off FB Marketplace. 

Ordered some Cooper RS3-G1 tires for the Enkei wheels I picked up off FB awhile ago. :)

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30 minutes ago, Smithcraft said:

I know which one it is, but it just won't come out.

Both of the local stealerships want $13 for a $7 relay. 🤬

Maybe a quick spray of some penetrating fluid  Or electrical cleaner...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Replaced the A/C relay in the engine compartment, and connected the test connectors and let it cycle a dozen times.

Then fired it up and tested it with turning the A/C on and off, and I could hear it engaging and disengaging.

Hopefully that's it and the compressor is still good for the rest of eternity!

 

Thank you for your help Max!

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1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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23 hours ago, pksystems said:

Found an Invidia catless downpipe for cheap on FB Marketplace, so I stopped working on my scrap metal one. :)

Received my Amazon 1L catchcans.  They have some baffling, but I will try to add another pipe with a bend on the inside of the fittings.

Picked up an Autometer boost gauge for $10 off FB Marketplace. 

Ordered some Cooper RS3-G1 tires for the Enkei wheels I picked up off FB awhile ago. :)

That's where I've been finding all of my deals.. FB marketplace. I tend to avoid the ones that use FB pay option. I'd rather use my PayPal than have yet another internet site having my CC info.. 

 

In spirit of the thread, I drove my car home from work today. I recently picked up an 03 Cavalier 5mt for short money and fixed it up for commuting purposes and finally giving the LGT a break. It's now a weekend car and will now finally be able to get all of its side projects done.. atleast I hope!

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On 8/12/2022 at 8:21 AM, seanyb505 said:

Last minute brainstorming re: Wheels.

My O.Z.s are exhibiting some signs or road rash. There's zero curbing, scratches or gouges, just the spokes have some of the paint being blasted away after 5 years of daily use. New tires are scheduled to be delivered today, and potentially mounted depending on my schedule. Should I stick the new tires on my stockers, thereby giving me a ton of time to actually refinish the OZs? I figure I'd spend some time cleaning and prepping them leading into fall, and spend a weekend or two actually rattle canning them. Or using a spray gun/compressor.

Potential Pros:-

- Hawt Subaru gold wheels, or

- Just a better, brighter silver instead of a blegh metallic gray they came with

- Nice looking wheels again

- Best chance to have tires off wheels for another few years being between tire sets now

Potential Cons

- Cost. Hate spending money on visual only. I'm probably looking at $150-200 to do it right.

- Stockers look like poo compared to OZs. I don't know how long they'd be on there

- Poor backyard quality - I'll be pretty bummed putting lug nuts on it the first time and watching all the paint peel away. Or orange peel.

- Wife may think I'm lame for having a black car with gold wheels.

 

I think the cost is the most painful part. This is a last minute thought I had, but there's like 5-10 automotive and household projects for that kind of money that have been on the back burner for months and years. It would really need to be worth it..

 

So I'm 99% going to refinish the Oz wheels some color. 85% gold. 

In the meantime.... 

20220813_164227_HDR.jpg

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Just about finished, so far have only used whatever rustoleum I had in the garage lol. Might add a little more clear. This is just something to keep me interested while real wheels are refinished. 

20220814_161658.jpg

 

Hope to have them mounted up tomorrow night. 

Edited by seanyb505
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