amm203

I honestly think he doesn't know. A few years ago I took it to a different shop before finding my current guy. One of the kids working there seemed interested and was asking all kinds of questions about the GT and what I'd done to it (I never mentioned the TGV/air pump deletes of course). He was also the one who spotted the missing air pump and informed his boss leading to a failed inspection - sumbitch

I always breathe a sigh of relief when my usual mechanic passes the subie's PA inspection - he has yet to notice the lack of an air pump. Butler county's inspection requirements are pretty funny; they don't test for emissions but you will fail if they notice the OEM emission equipment appears to be removed or modified.

Come on up to PA - we sometimes get all 4 seasons in one day

2nd the cabin filter idea. I use the white Sprayway can style (I think that's the same as Invisible Glass). Forgot about my cabin filter after a couple years and only ~15K miles and holy hell was it filled with crud.

Yes both catted. Guess it's a no brainer/dumb question. Different cat location + different type of cell setup most likely as well. I'll hold off on the DP and just swap the crappy 140k up.

Quick question - I would like to replace my old OEM leaking up-pipe (probably with a non-leaking OEM to hold me over until I do the Holy Header & FP Blue setup). Noticed it requires removing the DP which is an old CNT unit that's been on a while. I have a Cobb GESi DP still new in the box and figured I could throw that in along with the OEM up. Would this require a rework to my dyno tune?

"The turbocharger is noted to have been replaced in preparation for the sale" Ugh nice looking XT regardless

All I see are Mustangs, Camaros and WRXs around these parts. Can probably count on 1 hand how many different LGTs/OBXTs I've seen in this area since buying mine 9 years ago.

Spotted a very clean looking and customized turbo wagon last Saturday (7/1). Was 05-09 and DGM or dark blue. Saw it heading south on 79 right before the 376 interchange outside of Pittsburgh. Looked to have some nifty custom headlights, too. I ended up heading West on 376 and parting ways. Good looking wagon if you're on here!

Got the AOS breather hose replaced. PITA is an understatement with the VF48's cold side exit sitting right over the port on the engine. But lots of swearing and a sliced finger later it's in. Managed to get every hose at the "Y" and breather port tightened with clamps instead of zipties. Replaced the old bell housing cover with the Verus cover while I was in there (thank you blide for the idea!). Also changed the IAG check valve - $3 part that's been in there for 40k miles I figured why not. Got everything buttoned up and took it for a drive and everything seemed great. Right before the gas station I got up to around 5psi and felt the car seemingly cut throttle and lurch. Thought "hmm" and tried it again - same issue. Super worried and limped it to the gas station, popped the hood and saw what it was immediately; worm clamp at the silicone pipe from the turbo to the intercooler was loose - forgot to tighten it . Luckily had a toolkit and got it tightened and everything is good.

Damn - sorry SilentJ. That's a good looking Spec. B worth saving. Now if that happened (a 2nd time) to my 5EAT I'd probably be looking at a part out. Discovered my IAG AOS setup has a slight leak. There was a film of oil on the silicone piping between the VF48 and GS intercooler. Took out the intercooler and found the small breather tube connecting the block to the "Y" connector of the IAG kit is leaking. Freaking plastic zip-ties on a hose 1" from the turbo. Cool. Ordered new 3/4" hose and metal spring clamps

Productive weekend - replacement tranny cooler is in, MAF sensor cleaned, AEM Dryflow filter cleaned & oil changed. She gets inspected tomorrow. I noticed the Whiteline Com C top-hat rubber is starting to crack again. I have a feeling WL will not send a new pair for free a 2nd time around so I'm debating just going back to OEM style top-hats. Are there any other options besides OEM or KYB? Group N appears to only fit older WRXs & Foresters. I don't need solid top-hats but would like something a little "sportier" Edit/Update to my question: Found top hats by a company called Pedders (Model #585113). They appear similar to the Com C hats in that they're offset. Some cursory research on other forums indicates they have a different bearing mounting geometry to avoid the binding/popping issue of the WLs as well as a less harsh ride. Might try them out

5 year old Hayden 676 tranny cooler is leaking at the barb fittings. Does not appear to be a clamp issue. Not bad for a $35 part. Identical replacement is going in this weekend alongside an oil change. Planning to put Berryman B-12 Chemtool in the tank and run it close to E before I change the oil Sunday. Is this still a good idea to give the fuel system a bit of a clean? I recall JMP speaking highly of it. I'm running ID1050Xs FWIW.

Refit the GS splitter. I see now what you guys were talking about with the washer tubes. Luckily the holes in the splitter are generously oversized so I was able to loosen it and shift it upwards. The tubes/little white fittings are no longer hitting the back of the splitter. Also that edge I was worried about is now resting on the foam strip of the hood scoop - rattle appears to be gone. We'll see if the uncommon high knock stays away. Thank you for the links KZJonny!

Thank you for pointing me to this. I don't think my splitter fin cracked like yours did but it's good to know GS will remedy the problem. My issue is at the mid-point of the sheet-metal part that touches the hood towards the front of it. It sags and you can see a 1/8"-3/16" gap where it can easily rattle. Hell I wonder if weather-stripping along that edge might remedy the issue as well. I will randomly get 11 degrees of knock correction out of nowhere while cruising just like you mentioned. It's very rare but still concerning. ECU is smart enough to not learn it, thankfully. Guessing your random massive knock events went away for good after fixing the splitter?

Hmm I don't recall messing with the sprayer hoses at all when installing the splitter. The foam idea makes sense - like a buffer of sorts between the metal splitter and hood. Definitely going to check this out. Good call on SS screws as well! It's been garaged up since the NE decided it was freaking March and not May

I wonder if this is the source of some of my random knocking. My GS splitter has a slight sag under the hood and I can get it to rattle if I push on it with my finger. Assuming engine vibrations accomplish the same rattle. Short of taping it, sounds like JB Weld is the way to go. No plans on removing the intercooler or splitter anytime soon. In other news, crossed over 140K miles and 40K miles on the rebuilt engine. OEM 5EAT is somehow still going strong. Not launching but not exactly babying it either.

Been a while. Had Michelin Pilot Sport 4Ss installed over the weekend. French goodness!

Liking the redesign with the website! Have been busy with life and work but swapped FSB bushings recently to fix a squeak. Other than that, enjoying the summer roads with this awesome machine

Also curious what my options will be as I already have TGV deletes and the air pump removed. I have a multitude of parts to go FBO. Curious what my builder/tuner will suggest. Main concern is how to defeat the DTCs after I get tuned for the FBO setup. Maybe some electrical resisters to plug into the TGV & air-pump connections? I dunno but it sucks

Somewhat related, but I too had a remanufactured front right caliper fail and lock up within a few thousand miles. Realizing that remans are generally crap, I discovered that newer WRXs (up until 2021!) use the exact same front caliper as our GTs. Found one on eBay from a WRX that is only a few years old for about the same cost as a reman (there are tons of used ones available). The OEM brake hose that was attached looked relatively new and the caliper itself is in great condition. Part number is 26292AG042 for the passenger front caliper. Installed it this past weekend and confirmed it is identical - bolted up perfectly and now I have a functioning brake caliper again. At this point, an OEM caliper that has 20-40k miles seems like a safer bet than a reman. Gotta love Subaru's part interchangeability +1 for the Motive Power Bleeder - used it to bleed my lines when I swapped the caliper.

Damn, I feel this way after just crossing 135K a little while ago. Hopefully have some good years ahead

To be clear, I did not need to trim my threads and achieved -1.2° camber with only using the thinner jam nuts (I'm also lowered on K&N springs and Koni yellow shocks). It is worth noting I am running the Whiteline roll-center kit which includes custom tie-rod ends. These may be drilled and tapped a little deeper than the OEM tie-rod ends which allowed me to get the camber I was looking for.

I would suggest the STI rack. I can tell you first-hand it fit my 2008 Legacy GT perfectly fine. Check out this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/underdog-motorsports-2015-sti-steering-rack-swap-234351.html?t=234351&highlight=underdog+sti My Legacy has VDC and I've had no issues with it getting confused with the quicker ratio. This appears to mainly be an issue with the Outbacks since they have a slower rack than our stock Legacy ones do. It was an awesome upgrade and worth every penny since my rack was leaking badly as well and needed replaced anyways. Part # is 34110VA121. It can be found for under $800 delivered last time I checked. While the tie-rod threaded ends are a little longer, getting the following jam nuts to use as replacement for the OEM ones helps getting more adjustment for alignment: https://www.mcmaster.com/91938A130/. My alignment guy had no problem dialing in my car to my requested alignment using these jam nuts.

Should have clarified I meant the bleeding procedure. Vacation pics to the rescue; "Perform the operation in the order from the farthest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder"