What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Febreze Mee]

I got a wholeeee mess of detailing products and its gonna be sunny this weekend!!! B)

 

Going to Strip Wash, Clay Block, Scratch & Swirl Polish, fake ceramic wax!

 

I love detailing! You have to post up pictures when your done.

 

I'll be driving down to Texas in a month, and will be correcting the paint, and resealing once down there. I'm too excited!

[whitexc]

Motul break in oil out at 1200 miles. T-6 in for the win. Replaced the 5EAT fender filter and a few qts of ATF while the pan was off for dent removal. She got a clean bill of health and is ready for a road trip.

 

Off to the Adirondacks tonight for a weekend of varsity hockey. Big regional game tomorrow to head to the state championship next weekend. [emoji1696]

 

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[BoozeRS05]

It was so nice out the other day I took my rear wheels off and raised the rear collars juuust a bit. Also added a 3mm spacer to bring the rear wheels flush with the fronts. Wiped down the rear calipers.

 

Also, pulled back the fender liner and lightly coated the metal around the arch repair I had done last year. Sem Rust Prevention, two light coats along the entire arch and into some of the crevices. Need to get in there a little more, perhaps from the cargo and remove the rear interior parts.

[Rusty9]

Drove my car for the first time in 3 weeks, it's 80 degrees outside, and no snow. Just last week we had snow all over now it's warm.

I think I need to drive the car more. I have a trans leak that drips when sitting, and something else. I just need the STI 6MT swap.

 

It seems to not leak when I drive it more and the gaskets expand.

 

I've got a Spec.B 6mt taking up space in my garage. Rebuilt, 0 miles.

[tehspud]

Just got word from Tirerack that my rear Konis should be in my hands next week, and that's the last piece I needed for the big suspension refresh. Might make my own thread for my car to post pictures it.

[whitexc]

^^^Document for sure. We all have to share in the fun/misery.

 

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[meier motor sports]

Your car?

 

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yup sold the old girl. well traded more specifically. traded for a snapon solus.

[Gex]

Got some shakedown miles on the race wagon. lt'll need a few things before going back on track, needs some odds and ends buttoned up. Its pretty good though!

 

 

[Max Capacity]

Hey, those wheels match...

 

Ok, how do you get such clean cars this time of year...oh yeah, you're not in the northeast...

 

Is that 22' STI ? Makes the wagon look small.

 

Here's what my wagon looks like, it will get washed tomorrow on the drive back to VT in the rainstorm.

 

 

Not as bad a few years back.

 

Edited March 6, 2022 by Max Capacity

[whitexc]

Motul break in oil out at 1200 miles. T-6 in for the win. Replaced the 5EAT fender filter and a few qts of ATF while the pan was off for dent removal. She got a clean bill of health and is ready for a road trip.

 

Off to the Adirondacks tonight for a weekend of varsity hockey. Big regional game tomorrow to head to the state championship next weekend. [emoji1696]

 

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Just about 700 miles on the car this weekend traveling to the hockey game. The car ran flawlessly in a nice mixed run of highway, two lanes and some nice hilly roads through the snow belt that would be the western edge of the Adirondacks. Sorry for the lack of nice pics. I was on a driving mission. She averaged just shy of 24mpg.

 

Our boys won the NYS Regional championship game in a hard fought battle with 25 seconds left in the 2nd OT. Thanks to Salmon River for hosting and being good sports. Lost a few $$$ at the casino but overall a great weekend.

 

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Edited March 7, 2022 by whitexc

[NORULZleggy]

Hey, those wheels match...

 

Ok, how do you get such clean cars this time of year...oh yeah, you're not in the northeast...

 

 

You just do not drive it like I do in the winter or in the rain lol. :lol:

[lagwagon]

Swapped my MAF sensor with a new one from Amazon.

 

Quick update:

 

After replacing the intercooler my fuel trims actually got worse. A went from +6 to -8, B went from -8 to -15, C went from -2 to -8. Car is still stumbling coming to a stop and almost stalled several times. I also switched from Petro 94 (e10) back to Shell 91 (e0) to see what would happen (change was concurrent with intercooler replacement).

 

I reflashed to Stage 0 and the rough idle and stumbling is 90% gone but I can tell it is still trying to stall occasionally. It doesn't seem temperature dependent.

 

I'm sourcing a new intake pipe (not the turbo inlet) since it has been crushed at the flange on the turbo inlet and is probably leaking air.

 

Next step is to try and pull some injectors at the scrap yard, get them reconditioned, and also pull my front O2 sensor to see if it is contaminated. The last one looked like silicone or coolant contamination, but was also 250,000 km old so lots could've happened between 2005 and 2021 when I replaced it.

Edited March 7, 2022 by lagwagon
Fuel details added.

[tehspud]

Yesterday I pulled out my aluminum control arms to clean up, so I'm not bringing in dirty parts to put on the press at my work. Discovered that, nope, that's not road grime, these have been painted black. Boo

 

Short of media blasting, anyone have suggestions on restoring them to aluminum glory?

[whitexc]

Some aircraft paint remover? Many brands out there. Follow that up with some elbow grease and they should look good.

 

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[seanyb505]

Will the aircraft stripper play nice with the aluminum?

[NoOne1223]

Paint stripper shouldn't touch it since it's used all the time in aviation. Hence "aircraft paint stripper"

 

Planes are made of aluminum, and have been for the better part of a century now. Good luck!

 

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[lagwagon]

Upped the idle rpm by 200 and that has stopped the car from trying to stall.

 

A/F learning 1A is now down at -10.5 when cold but after a long drive to pick up some injectors it came down to -3.5 (then back up again after cold start). B is at -14.8 and C is at -9.x.

 

I checked some logs I posted in December, at similar temps as now, and everything looked good on the fuel side at the time so I'm not sure what has happened. I might update that thread with new logs after the weekend so people can see the change in just a couple thousand kms. It's pretty dramatic.

Edited March 10, 2022 by lagwagon
Added "A"

[xt2005bonbon]

Carefully check the MAF ground wires. It just takes a little bit of extra resistance (or poor connection) between the MAF wires and MAF itself for fuel trims to go haywire.

 

 

Two weeks ago, I actually cut the OEM MAF wires and installed this: https://iwireusa.com/products/mass-air-flow-sensor-maf-plug-a?variant=40734171562137

[xt2005bonbon]

Also, before you cut anything, you can also check how the fuel corrections behave while wiggling the wires close to the MAF while the engine is running. Take your phone/AP, and observe.

[JMack]

Paint stripper shouldn't touch it since it's used all the time in aviation. Hence "aircraft paint stripper"

 

Planes are made of aluminum, and have been for the better part of a century now. Good luck!

 

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Little known fact, that "Aircraft Paint Stripper" isn't made for aircraft. In fact, it states right on the container "not for use on Aircraft", or at least it used to.

 

To answer the question though, this stuff works pretty well. I suggest roughing up the surface with a quick hit of sandpaper. The remover will "pop" the paint up, or gum it up (depending on type of paint it is touching".

[Infosecdad]

About a week ago I finished installing a 2012 LGT 6mt in my '05 wagon.

100% love it and would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

I understand that's it's not for everyone, it's a split case 6mt with cable shifter. If you are going for 400hp+ and/or prefer the direct linkage for the shifter, then go for the STi 6mt.

 

However, if you are <400HP (honestly, it's the torque and how you drive it that matter more, people just have a tendency to measure by HP) and don't mind the cable shifting, then this is a perfectly viable option for 1/2-1/3 the cost.

 

You can use a 2010-2012 Legacy/Outback 6mt (with some minor mods) or a 2015-2022 WRX 6mt. All you need is the transmission and cable shifter mechanism, and to make sure your rear diff matches. Most of the split case 6mts are 4.11, but there are a few 4.44 from the Outbacks.

 

The list of things I could reuse from my 5mt setup:

- Driveshaft

- Transmission cradle w/ bushings

- CV axles

- Flywheel and Clutch

- TSK Throwout Bearing

- Verus Harden fork and pivot

 

The 2015-2022 WRX 6mt is the easiest because it's the same mounting system as the 5mt in the 4th Gens. Plus, it's newer, but generally a little more expensive than the 2010-2012 Legacy/Outback 6mt. It looks like the cable shifter mechanism can be interchanged, I'm using a 2020 WRX shifter on the 2012 LGT 6mt and it works great.

 

Due to the unique mounting system for the 2010-2012 LGT there are a few extra things you have to do to get those 6mts to fit. You need the dogbone mount off your 5mt because it doesn't have one and you need to cut/grind off the mount on the passenger side (as documented my thread) so that it can clear the turbo. Other than that, the rest of the case differences don't really matter. I'm going to claim than the extra bracing in the case due to the mounting system provides a stronger case (but I honestly have no idea). I did pull over the two sensors from my 5mt as well, they just plug in at the same locations.

 

I love that I can now upgrade to a 17 year newer transmission in my 2005. One day I may bump from my 2012 6mt to a 202x 6mt if I need to. The 6mt is definitely quieter and smoother shifting than my 5mt, and it has more miles on it. Road noise is down due to the cable shifter isolating sound better and lower RPM from the 6th gear. So far MPG is up 3-4 mpg in hwy driving.

 

I highly recommend the upgrades that the WRX crew has known about since 2015, the short shifter, the short shift adapter plate, and the shift stop. Right now my shifts are very tight and smooth. It's honestly tighter than my 5mt ever was even with solid bushings.

 

I did pick up a seal kit for the 6mt because I wanted to replace axle and rear seals before install. I also picked up the washer and cotter pin and four bolts for attaching the shifter mechanism to the body.

 

It amazes me that 16 years later, I can bolt the cable shifter mechanism to the exact spot with the same four bolt holes as the surround from my 5mt, I love Subaru engineering.

 

 

My thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2012-lgt-6mt-into-2005-lgt-5mt-287543.html

 

Scottydunno's thread where he installed a new WRX 6mt as well: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-wrx-6mt-into-05-09-legacy-ob-287486.html

[Scottydunno]

About a week ago I finished installing a 2012 LGT 6mt in my '05 wagon.

100% love it and would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

I understand that's it's not for everyone, it's a split case 6mt with cable shifter. If you are going for 400hp+ and/or prefer the direct linkage for the shifter, then go for the STi 6mt.

 

However, if you are <400HP (honestly, it's the torque and how you drive it that matter more, people just have a tendency to measure by HP) and don't mind the cable shifting, then this is a perfectly viable option for 1/2-1/3 the cost.

 

You can use a 2010-2012 Legacy/Outback 6mt (with some minor mods) or a 2015-2022 WRX 6mt. All you need is the transmission and cable shifter mechanism, and to make sure your rear diff matches. Most of the split case 6mts are 4.11, but there are a few 4.44 from the Outbacks.

 

The list of things I could reuse from my 5mt setup:

- Driveshaft

- Transmission cradle w/ bushings

- CV axles

- Flywheel and Clutch

- TSK Throwout Bearing

- Verus Harden fork and pivot

 

The 2015-2022 WRX 6mt is the easiest because it's the same mounting system as the 5mt in the 4th Gens. Plus, it's newer, but generally a little more expensive than the 2010-2012 Legacy/Outback 6mt. It looks like the cable shifter mechanism can be interchanged, I'm using a 2020 WRX shifter on the 2012 LGT 6mt and it works great.

 

Due to the unique mounting system for the 2010-2012 LGT there are a few extra things you have to do to get those 6mts to fit. You need the dogbone mount off your 5mt because it doesn't have one and you need to cut/grind off the mount on the passenger side (as documented my thread) so that it can clear the turbo. Other than that, the rest of the case differences don't really matter. I'm going to claim than the extra bracing in the case due to the mounting system provides a stronger case (but I honestly have no idea). I did pull over the two sensors from my 5mt as well, they just plug in at the same locations.

 

I love that I can now upgrade to a 17 year newer transmission in my 2005. One day I may bump from my 2012 6mt to a 202x 6mt if I need to. The 6mt is definitely quieter and smoother shifting than my 5mt, and it has more miles on it. Road noise is down due to the cable shifter isolating sound better and lower RPM from the 6th gear. So far MPG is up 3-4 mpg in hwy driving.

 

I highly recommend the upgrades that the WRX crew has known about since 2015, the short shifter, the short shift adapter plate, and the shift stop. Right now my shifts are very tight and smooth. It's honestly tighter than my 5mt ever was even with solid bushings.

 

I did pick up a seal kit for the 6mt because I wanted to replace axle and rear seals before install. I also picked up the washer and cotter pin and four bolts for attaching the shifter mechanism to the body.

 

It amazes me that 16 years later, I can bolt the cable shifter mechanism to the exact spot with the same four bolt holes as the surround from my 5mt, I love Subaru engineering.

 

 

My thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2012-lgt-6mt-into-2005-lgt-5mt-287543.html

 

Scottydunno's thread where he installed a new WRX 6mt as well: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-wrx-6mt-into-05-09-legacy-ob-287486.html

Thanx for the mention! I just wanna add that this swap is as easy as it sounds. In my post, there is a link to my book‐face profile with an album of all the pictures I took with comments about them. The trans is a 17' with 55k and the shifter is from a 16' with 79k. All of my stuff is stock at the moment.

 

As of today, I just changed my oil. Topped off the power steering. It appears that I have a small leak somewhere. I'll get to it when the weather is better. I also picked up an STi pedal cover set. Looks like I have to disassemble the gas pedal to install the new one. Also, just turned 255k. Happy EJ255 day.. [emoji23]

 

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[Enlight]

Swapped to an STi transmission mount from the Spec B. mount and the Group N that came before it. Group N increased NVH too much, Spec B. was too soft and I could hear the pitch mount clunk on hard shifts. Hopefully the STi is Goldilocks.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

As of today, I just changed my oil. Topped off the power steering. It appears that I have a small leak somewhere. I'll get to it when the weather is better. I also picked up an STi pedal cover set. Looks like I have to disassemble the gas pedal to install the new one. Also, just turned 255k. Happy EJ255 day.. [emoji23]

For pedal install do yourself a favor and get a punch set -it’ll help a lot with the disassembly/reassembly. I forgot which size it is that I used to get the pedal off. Also if you don’t use a screw to reinstall, douse the pin with WD40 or something similar. Once mine got started it was a piece of cake to re-install the pin with a hammer.

[utc_pyro]

I drove it for the first time in 3 months. Getting it ready to sale so I reversed some of the crazy hybrid boost control stuff I was experimenting with, and prepped the system to just run the external waste gate full time by upping the internal wastegate spring to 18psi.

 

Guess I didn't realize how much the IWG was leaking with a 14PSI spring, because even with a full PID controller on the EWG it was hitting 20PSI in 2nd and tripping the overboost cut. 19PSI in 1st was stable, but the front end would break traction. In the dry. It feels as fast as our tesla now, so it's go that going for it I guess?

 

It's going to need quite a bit of turning to get it "sellable". I probably can put some more timing into it and pull some fuel as well, even overboosting like crazy it wasn't knocking.