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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I had a brand new 2015+ STI steering rack put in. Car seems to drive and handle just fine. One thing I did notice though is that the camber adjustment on my top hats seems a little off. Meaning that one top hat is adjusted all the way to the outboard side of the car and the other top hat is adjusted all the way to the inboard side of the car. Before I had the rack installed they were much more even. I called both of the mechanic that did the install and the alignment shop in both said "I dunno"

 

Would anybody have any ideas why the top hats are adjusted so extreme to get my 1.5 negative camber?

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What's the turbo line look like? When I first got mine it liked to escape near there.

 

Everything I could see with the intercooler off is clean and dry, from a coolant perspective. The turbo inlet is greasy (the metal part, not the plastic tube) so that might mask a drip. There are a lot of really janky looking hose clamps on my lower rad hose, not that the clamps look bad themselves, just that there are extra clamps everywhere for some reason, but everything looks very clean.

 

Interesting observation - the rear knock sensor valley/area was almost completely filled with crud. I didn't have time to clean that out as I wasn't expecting to replace the intercooler at all, but I'll need to address that at some point. Perhaps the cause of my phantom knock events?

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I had a brand new 2015+ STI steering rack put in. Car seems to drive and handle just fine. One thing I did notice though is that the camber adjustment on my top hats seems a little off. Meaning that one top hat is adjusted all the way to the outboard side of the car and the other top hat is adjusted all the way to the inboard side of the car. Before I had the rack installed they were much more even. I called both of the mechanic that did the install and the alignment shop in both said "I dunno"

 

Would anybody have any ideas why the top hats are adjusted so extreme to get my 1.5 negative camber?

 

Also not answering your question, but I recall VDC being mentioned throughout the various STi rack swap threads. Was this not an issue for you?

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Since not answering the question is the in thing these days, oem top hats aren't adjustable at all, right?? So they would have to be adjustable. White line is installed A or B orientation and sounds like that could be what you're seeing, but alignment techs usually won't play with that to achieve camber. Stock camber bolts can achieve -1.5 so unless one was rusted solid I can't imagine they'd go that route. What's the alignment printout look like?
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My friend's camber settings are very different on each side of his coilover top mounts.

 

Asked if it was normal and I think he said something about the frame being different for each car. My car was aligned by the same shop that did his and the camber adjustment is in the same place on each side.

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Unibody construction. Common to see differences side to side on a properly maintained alignment rack. How many shops have their racks maintained as they should is the question. That costs money.....in lieu of the rack making money.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

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Well, here's what I've done for the Legacy lately:

Put a down payment for paint. I'm doing the JDM Facelift swap on my '07 specB. Have a new bumper beam coming in and some K2 Gear goodies. That said, my power steering pump has been starting to squeal. Gotta look into that.

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Since not answering the question is the in thing these days, oem top hats aren't adjustable at all, right?? So they would have to be adjustable. White line is installed A or B orientation and sounds like that could be what you're seeing, but alignment techs usually won't play with that to achieve camber. Stock camber bolts can achieve -1.5 so unless one was rusted solid I can't imagine they'd go that route. What's the alignment printout look like?

 

the car has Silver's coil overs on it. The car doesn't have a problem with rust. i didnt get a print out?

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How many degrees of camber do your Silver's top hats allow for in their adjustment range? Could it be that the eccentric bolts that mount the strut the the hub may not be adjusted evenly from side to side? I have BC Racing top hats that allow for +/-3 degrees, so even if the eccentric bolts were aligned evenly the camber plates could still swallow up some of that camber that they frame may be inducing, but it could be a step in the right direction, no?

 

 

EDIT* Google says +/-3 degrees for Silver's as well. First question answered.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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How many degrees of camber do your Silver's top hats allow for in their adjustment range? Could it be that the eccentric bolts that mount the strut the the hub may not be adjusted evenly from side to side? I have BC Racing top hats that allow for +/-3 degrees, so even if the eccentric bolts were aligned evenly the camber plates could still swallow up some of that camber that they frame may be inducing, but it could be a step in the right direction, no?

 

 

EDIT* Google says +/-3 degrees for Silver's as well. First question answered.

 

Now we are getting somewhere! Thanks so much for pointing me in the possible right direction

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It's just those random runoff/puddle areas of pure saltwater that make me cringe. Tough to pass up 40°+ in Feb, though. It's always a hoot going from a 5,000# boat to a 3,500# car with more power Edited by amm203
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Took my wife's car in for service and somebody else did the following - oil and filter, rear wiper blade, power steering flush, cleaned up the battery terminals.

 

I am shocked how much better the car feels after the power steering flush. Much smoother driving and less vibration at idle as well (I think, possibly placebo effect, will need more time in the car to come to a conclusion).

 

Also found out that power steering pumps are getting pretty hard to find right now. New aftermarket was like $430 (only one supplier had stock) and new Subaru is $550. I'll be going new Subaru for that minor price difference. That will also let me rebuild my current pump (since no core charge) if I can track down the elusive reseal kit.

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That will also let me rebuild my current pump (since no core charge) if I can track down the elusive reseal kit.

 

 

Here you go. I just rebuilt two pumps. No leaks so far.

 

 

I bought the following kit: Gates 348532

 

That kit covers 95% of the seals. It did not contain a snap-ring for the bearing but I just reused the old one since it wasn't deformed during removal. I bought the following as well:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR6DHYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR9D14F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

These are the final two seals needed. One is 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & the other is 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. (I forget which one goes where but it's fairly obvious to match up the old ones with the new ones)

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If you want/need to swap the shaft bearing let me know. I bought an NTN bearing but didn't need to use it since my original one was fine. I can send it for just shipping cost since I have no need for it. Otherwise, you wanna grab Honda part #: 91048-P2A-003
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Brought a new wagon home. I have given up on my shell. I have too many other project cars. It will go live out the rest of its days on Boxkitas farm. Good to be back in a rowdy wagon!

 

 

 

51876454836_a17612651d_c.jpg

So you bought Kip's wagon? Nice.

 

Today I did a leakdown test on my Impreza because I've had a slight misfire on cylinder 2 on cold starts. The results point to exhaust valve issues on 2/4. I'm struggling with where to go. The shortblock has "219k" on it (probably more since it has been lifted for about 6 years). I can replace heads for cheap but I'm thinking of just getting a junkyard longblock.

 

Also, I found a 2015-2020 WRX 6mt for $750 locally. I'm really trying not to spend the money on it.

Edited by rhino6303
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