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shralp

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Everything posted by shralp

  1. I’ve literally got less than 1mm of clearance between my sidewall and the spring collar on the KW coilovers I’m running on my track car, (w/ Continental Extreme Contact Force 255/40/17) and shockingly, no rub. Way closer than I’d like but as long as there is no contact…
  2. They add bling and will stay more supple over the long term. If it fits your budget I’d say go for it.
  3. FOR SALE - Bend, OR Schroth Quick Fit 4 point harness, drivers side. SOLD The Schroth Quick Fit 4 point is designed to be used with a factory seat and factory mounting points. I ran this in my track car for about 5 seasons. It has finally been caged with a proper race seat so I've moved onto a 6 point harness. Once you mount the quick release points in place, its quite easy to swap in/out and you still retain the factory 3 point system. Have to say, with my cloth seats and this harness, I felt WAY more locked into the car as compared to the factory 3 point system. When I purchased this Schroth told me that it was no longer making this part # and that I was getting the last drivers side Subaru specific Quick Fit harness in stock, it was warehoused in Europe and had to be shipped over. Belts are all in good shape, includes all parts and install manual. $185 Shipped to the Continental U.S. More info on the Quick Fit at this link https://www.schrothracing.com/item/schroth-quickfit
  4. Stock set up is fine for a daily driver (with less failure points than an aux oil cooler), unless you’re pushing it hard on the track
  5. Assuming your motor is healthy enough to turn up the wick, I’d highly recommend you get it E-tuned remotely to ensure your getting something tailored to your particular parts selection. Should be a few folks on here that can chime in on options.
  6. Great prices on helmets from https://pyrotectstore.com/product-category/safety-gear/helmets/ They are based here in Oregon.
  7. Hey John, can you explain to me to me why the exhaust turbine exducer side on your red 20g is smaller than the exducer side on the black 20g? Assuming that your red one is is the “bigger” of the two, wouldn’t both exducer sides and sizes go up on the red one?
  8. Let me know if you decide to ship, these will easily fit in a USPS Priority mail box (medium size), free at the post office. Easy peasy
  9. DoctorDave, how easy was it to pull your instrument cluster (three small screws to pull a trim surround and it pops out?), or was it more involved than that? Also is there a small ribbon wire on the backside that is plugged in? Asking because I’m looking to delete the seat belt chime speaker that’s encased inside now that I’m caging the car and using harnesses. Found some videos online that show this on Imprezas but not sure if it’s the same for our cars
  10. Ok, admittedly I didn’t actually do this myself today but it did get done today Super happy after 15 yrs on track to finally be adding a cage and seat to the car. Will be adding low sidebars along the front seats as well.
  11. Making room for the side bars on the roll cage that’s going in. Kinda cool that these are a two piece panel from the factory. Made it pretty easy and clean. Seat is in!
  12. JMP would probably be interested in the VF46 for a rebuild candidate, might want to ping him
  13. Real talk here bud. If your letting your oil level get to the point of blowing your motor, not sure you’re a good candidate for a motor that is more complex, in need of regular monitoring to ensure engine longevity, and frankly more fussy, particularly if ignored. But yeah the swap isn’t easy or worth it…
  14. This one looked to be about as salty as my ‘08 and I would have loved to have swapped my Surgeline built motor with 60K mi. / RA spec short geared ZF Design built 5 speed with 15k mi. into this. Swap the guts from the donor into my car and sell. My exterior is way more hammered than this freshly painted example and with the suspension and brake mods he did, it would have been a really nice upgrade for me. Sadly the price needed to be hyper aggressive to realistically make the numbers pan out and than went out the window pretty quickly
  15. I’ve seen this from Verus and wondered if I need it as well with my ceramic coated Killer B. Seems like something is different in my ‘05? Don’t see anything plastic in that area that would get cooked?
  16. Apologies, but figured this would get more eyeballs in the 4th Gen forum. Nice re-painted '08 XT on BAT right now for No Reserve. Its in AK but a nice looking example... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2008-subaru-outback-6/
  17. Wish I could afford a low mile used VW R32, they pop up on Bring A Trailer here and there. Would gladly take a newer Golf R tho. Total Swiss Army knife car right there…
  18. Hate to admit it but at this point if I could afford a GR Corolla, (circuit edition) or a R32 I’d gladly jump ship on my daily
  19. My ‘08 XT daily only has 40k on a new short block w/refreshed heads and with the sudden replacement of my 5speed with a ZF Design RA Spec close ratio 1-4 OEM 5th I’m in it for the long haul. Paint is getting tired but at least I don’t have to obsess over it and the car checks boxes that most cars just can’t. The track car? Well that’s just a 15 year slippery slope. Will continue to modify and upgrade but don’t see ever getting rid of it unless I was it up at the track…
  20. Yup teachable moment for me for sure! So yup was actually running 3mm spacers on this set up when it happened. I tend to never run spacers and wouldn't ever go more than 3mm but in this case, I discovered that the Continentals 255/40/17, even though they are slightly smaller sectional width on paper, are actually marginally wider than the Hankook RS4's I'm used to running. The side wall was ever so slightly rubbing on the spring collar of my KW coilovers up front. 3mm was enough to give me some wiggle room. Hard to say if this was a huge factor or not as 3mm is pretty widely regarded as safe. What I can say however is that my records show that the LR hub had never been replaced on the car. The RR was done in 2018 and the fronts every few years because the heat loading on track would wreck them. Now that I've got proper ducting I don't see that being a big issue going forward. Can't say with 100% assurance that the LR was original but certainly can't find it in my records. A rough theory is that swapping out the other 3 corners on a semi regular basis kept the wolves at bay enough that the studs never had a chance to fail before getting replaced. The LR however, unsure on the replacement interval and perhaps this, along with the 3mm spacer was just too much for it to handle. These Apex's are ET42 offset, (before the 3mm spacer).
  21. Thought I'd post a cautionary tale of woe from my recent season ender at the track. A good friend up in British Columbia owns a 911 Cup Car (997), and is a member at the Area 27 racetrack. He invited me to bring the track car up for a few days. With guest privileges all I had to pay for was daily insurance at $100 CDN so it was pretty hard to say no! The layout at Area 27 is gorgeous and a joy to drive for sure. That said, it was completely new to me and the morning sessions were tricky learning the race line. I was also having horrible grip issues with an older set of Hankook RS4 tires that were giving me fits. I decided to swap on my new Continental Extreme Contact Force set right before lunch and it was like night and day. I was starting learn the race line, grip was back, and I was starting to pass other cars. Half way through my second session with the Continentals, I had just apexed a tight right hand corner, (one of only two lower speed corners at the track, the rest are high speed sweepers), I heard loud SNAP! followed by an immediate loud BANG!! I felt left rear corner of the car get low and out of my peripheral vision I saw my LR wheel launching off into the infield. Luckily I was just getting back on the power and had the car relatively straight going about 50 mph. With the left rear corner sitting on brake rotor I skidded to a stop half on track and half in the grass. Really lucky that this didn't happen on a high speed corner or a blind one as everyone coming behind me was able to see well. Once I was safely able to get out of the car it was painfully clear what had happened. All 5 wheel studs had sheared in half launching the wheel into space Amazingly we were able to put a 2x6 under the rotor and use it as a sled as we slowly winched the car into the infield and up onto my trailer without doing any additional damage to the car. I spent the rest of the day riding shotgun in my buddys Cup Car which at least was some rowdy fun consolation. I mean, I know aftermarket wheel studs are a thing but wow, I've never seen or heard of this happening going on 15 years driving this car on track. Based on what I'm doing with the car and the fact that most of the cars I see at the track are running OEM wheel studs, it just never crossed my mind that I should upgrade them. So yup, that's on me for sure... Final damage tally: An Apex ARC-8 rim, Continental tire, new rotor ring and hat, (thank god the caliper is ok, just some beef jerky to Dremel off and its good to go, call it a battle scar!), and a new CV axle. My nice Whiteline bits are thankfully ok but when everything compressed, it bent the shit out of my now unobtainable Perrin sway bar mount. My tuner was able to bend it back into shape and we buttressed that whole system by adding Anderson Design & Fab sway bar reinforcement brackets so its plenty locked down now. My unobtainable ancient Perrin mid and Y-pipe too a big hit as well. They were able to get it relatively back in shape but its a temporary fix. I'm swapping in a Nameless mid/Y this winter. Considering I've had the Perrin on since '08 I think its done its duty! Lucky break again, my Prodrive muffs made it thru ok with just a some bending of the lip at the back of the can. So thats my tale of woe. I guess the lesson to be learned here is that you've really go to be methodical with upgrades if you're gonna push a car hard. Even the little stuff, like wheel studs, can bite you in the ass eventually if they are not up to the task. ARP studs in all 4 corners fixed that! Really happy that the body sustained very little damage. The rear clip popped back on fine and there is just a bit of wave in the quarter panel, probably from when the wheel jammed upward before launching off. If you look in just the right light you can see it but its virtually invisible. The plastic dogleg just ahead of the wheel did get ripped off. It was completely gravel hammered from 18 years of use so I just bought new ones and wrapped them in matte black vinyl. Actually looks better than before! A few pics of the carnage and repair below...
  22. Yup flanges mate up but it just necks down to 2.5 for the OEM muffs
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