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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Nice.. you have steering wheel controls and an 05? Was it from this Walkthrough?

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-steering-wheel-radio-controls-26232.html

 

Yes, 2005 with the 08+ steering wheel controls.

I had originally done the rare '05-06 controls, but then went all in on the 08+.

 

That link and a couple others, I'll update with the if/when I can find the references.

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Yes, 2005 with the 08+ steering wheel controls.

I had originally done the rare '05-06 controls, but then went all in on the 08+.

 

That link and a couple others, I'll update with the if/when I can find the references.

 

 

That would be great if you did. I will eventually get 08+ WRX wheel with audio controls, and I am somewhat OK with electronics, but not having to discover everything would be great!.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Ordered the ball joint removal tool for next week's overhaul. Dropped off aluminum pieces to get old stuff pressed out and new stuff in.

 

I went with Super Pro anti-lift kit for the front control arm, but only just now realizing it shipped with two different sized voids in the main bushing. Awesome.

 

Customer service air freighting a replacement from Australia. I learned there's a number of suspension companies under zeder corporation, including super pro, fulcrum and whiteline

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Got my car back outside and drivable after:

 

- all new front suspension bushings, tie rods, etc.

- Aluminum LCA up front

- New knuckles, rotors, calipers up front

- JDM Bilsteins front & rear

- Put on my Madrig CF hood scoop :spin:

- Put on "new" front grille. Old one was atrocious.

- Polished headlights.

 

Of course, not all in one day but today is the day I post!

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What do people usually do with the front heat shield when it's rusted to the point of flapping around? I went to spray some PB on the upstream O2 sensor and the heat shield is loose there..
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What do people usually do with the front heat shield when it's rusted to the point of flapping around? I went to spray some PB on the upstream O2 sensor and the heat shield is loose there..

 

Wire them tight or remove them. Most of mine on the wagon are gone for years now.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That would be great if you did. I will eventually get 08+ WRX wheel with audio controls, and I am somewhat OK with electronics, but not having to discover everything would be great!.

 

I followed this guide from MasAyinde and I drew my own diagram to help with colors (still looking for that one)

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installing-08-09-steering-wheel-w-audio-controls-into-05-253354.html

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I'm trying to find a single Prodrive GC-010E 18x7.5 100x5 wheel for a full sized spare; but it's been a challenge to say the least.

 

For people with a full sized spare, do you have it in the wheel rotation or how do you deal with the difference over time? Just hope you don't have to drive too many miles on it when needed?

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For people with a full sized spare, do you have it in the wheel rotation or how do you deal with the difference over time? Just hope you don't have to drive too many miles on it when needed?

 

Been running with a full size spare for winter and summer, I'll rotate one out mid season, usually to the front because I think the fronts wear slightly faster.. Even when all was said and done the one will have less wear than the others but it's definitely not "new" condition.

 

That, and hoping I don't have to drive too far on it when needed. It's mostly there to get me home until a tire gets fixed. One nasty winter I was told I had to wait 6 hours for a tow (and that was with AMA roadside assistance) so I drove to McDicks and enjoyed a coffee while I waited (and my kid had open access to anything she wanted from their menu).

 

Thanks for linking the guides.. I already have a DAMD wheel for 05, if I remember right the 05 wheel profile and the one with radio controls is slightly different so I don't think I'll be doing that mod. :(

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Been running with a full size spare for winter and summer, I'll rotate one out mid season, usually to the front because I think the fronts wear slightly faster.. Even when all was said and done the one will have less wear than the others but it's definitely not "new" condition.

 

That, and hoping I don't have to drive too far on it when needed. It's mostly there to get me home until a tire gets fixed. One nasty winter I was told I had to wait 6 hours for a tow (and that was with AMA roadside assistance) so I drove to McDicks and enjoyed a coffee while I waited (and my kid had open access to anything she wanted from their menu).

 

Thanks for linking the guides.. I already have a DAMD wheel for 05, if I remember right the 05 wheel profile and the one with radio controls is slightly different so I don't think I'll be doing that mod. :(

 

The DAMD wheel for the 05 will handle the '05 audio control modules. I think you should be able to get it to to work with just the first link that details now to wire from the steering column to the radio. The Clockspring will handle from there to the controls on the wheel. You only need that second link/reference if you are going to 08-14 style audio controls because the plugs are different.

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Took it out to fill the tank and for a 30-45min spin last night. Shut the car off once or twice at red lights on the drive to see if the fuel temp CEL would go away, and finally after getting home and parking in the garage, the CEL went away (yay, didn't have to reset the ECU and lose all the current fuel trims!). Buttoned up the rear seat and car's ready to drive!

 

Have a nasty squeak coming from the rear, and the same clunk from the front end. Probably a combination of endlinks and sway bar bushings, though the bushings aren't very old. I just turn the music up or hit the throttle harder for peace of mind :hide:

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Been trying to get the upstream O2 sensor off, but it's not budging. Have been applying liberal squirts of PB over the past week, used a MAP torch on the exhaust and a can of PC parts cleaner held upside down on the sensor try to get that temperature differential but it's not moving.

 

Meanwhile, I drove downtown ~40km return and burned up a third of a tank of gas.. so much for camping planned for this weekend with the kid. May end up renting a car.

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I moved it. lol. Been really feelin' the former daily alot lately. Maybe it's the good weather...maybe it's the stereo, I don't know. Having two paid off, insured, licensed, nicer rigs is sooooo convenient! Especially when mod or maint time comes and shat hits the fan, still got a ride! lol.

 

Oh...and may have chosen wheels for the XT finally. Gotta decide by the 15th...my vendor's pricing sky rockets.

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Vacuumed. Wiped down the door panels. Installed new door panel handle covers, and a new OEM tweeter cover on the driver's side. Threw in new headlights. Removed, and fixed a component on the rear washer fluid jet assembly, then cleaned under Madrig's spoiler while in there. Removed factory mudguards. Washed and clayed the whole car. Tossed the Oregon plates for my new Texas plates. Disabling DRLs and beginning the extensive process of correcting my paint using Meguiars 105 & 205, Griot's G9 random orbital, and a bunch of pads and buffing towels. I will also try to throw on my Rally Armour mudflaps this evening, pending how far I get with cutting/polishing/waxing :)

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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I've been sitting on my hella horns for awhile now. I no longer wanted them being seen in my grill, but recently remembered I do not have to mount them there. We should carve out some dedicated work-on-car time and do it together. Just say when.

 

The roof and spoiler are buffed and polished.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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I finally put in new headlights after having one for nearly 3 years and the other for over a year. The change is pretty dramatic for me, I'm so used it it with all chrome. Part of why I procrastinated so long was because I wasn't sure I'd like these.

 

I also tried to do Lamin-X (the larger reason for procrastinating), and be sure to look out for me selling the passenger side skin soon. So, after spending $62 to toss the driver's side in the trash, I have determined it's not a skill I command. It doesn't help that the tint place I used refused to do it for me last year.

 

So I guess I should get used to spending $700 on headlights every few years.

 

 

Before:

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After:

P5230043.thumb.JPG.291a3de31bdd38967ee2f6d7a1257223.JPG

 

 

Not pictured: the shrieking cicadas

(actually, there are probably thousands in the photo)

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Got the GM IAT sensor wired in, collecting some data before getting into speed density. Wagon got smacked by a chunk of semi tire on the freeway, hood is dented and creased, paid for a scoopless hood because of it. Need to trade someone the AVO for a quieter catback, think I'm implementing a return to subtlety.
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Got the GM IAT sensor wired in, collecting some data before getting into speed density. Wagon got smacked by a chunk of semi tire on the freeway, hood is dented and creased, paid for a scoopless hood because of it. Need to trade someone the AVO for a quieter catback, think I'm implementing a return to subtlety.

 

Oh man that stinks about the tire chunk! I guess it's 1000x better than through the windshield, but still. Glad it wasn't the latter.

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# 1 - Not really directly car related but cleaned garage and populated tool box my fiance got me for my birthday yesterday. Made #2 below more enjoyable.

 

# 2 - Removed steering rack. Constant fluttering clunky noise, sounded a lot like a really bad sway bar linkage. Also popped under extreme steering angle while driving around parking lot. After removal have verified that the passenger side rod rocks back and forth radially in the gland while driver's side is movement free. I may have done this to myself, I am pretty sure I did. I was half expecting something to be wrong when I accidentally laid into the inner tie rod with an impact wrench. Lesson learned - stop working on car at midnight. Bad decisions are made when beat.

 

Anyhow, guess I should do STI swap at this point? It's cheaper for the rack new OEM vs. new OEM and I am not sure I trust rockauto reman for this. I have read stories about people getting wrong PN, like the slower rack meant for OBXT.

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Edited by bubbagump
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