SBT Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 I have a 15+ STI rack in need of a seal that I picked up off of NASIOC because it was a screaming deal, if ya feel like giving Jaylew's instructions a shot. For some reason the 2015+ racks seem to have an inordinate amount of leak issues. I've got the tools to repair them, but what is the corr issue? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 1 inch H&R spacers all around , really made the OEM wheel gap easier to live with Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 For some reason the 2015+ racks seem to have an inordinate amount of leak issues. I've got the tools to repair them, but what is the corr issue?I think it's just correlation in that most of the racks people purchase are used and from vehicles that have been in an accident. Even though the racks appear undamaged from the outside or just have "bent tie rods" there is most likely internal damage to seals causing the leaks we all see. I imagine if we polled people who've purchased new oem racks there are very few leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Digging the new SSR wheels. I think they look great with the RBP. In other news. Another Moroso coolant expansion tank has failed on me. Right on the weld like the first one. Ordered a killer B replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Supergramps is back on Mighty Car Mods Love watching the 4th gen wagon. He needs a Madrig scoop... "This is just part of Subaru ownership" SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Gave up on getting the O2 sensor off. Will let a shop figure it out. Replace a busted taillight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Front struts and mounts I went with the OEM kyb's after much back and fourth , them being in stock at the local parts house was a factor. I knew my old one where blown but o man what a difference. I'm actually glad I went this rount it's got that pillowy smooth ride I had heard described. Going to keep her full sleeper status I decided and honestly no real track use or need for tighter handling when I started thinking about it. End goal is a comfy that is faster than it should be. Going to cross post this but I tore my driver side outer CV boot and I for the life of me can't find a dyi on replacement, only inner or completely replacement, any help appreciated. Thanks Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Digging the new SSR wheels. I think they look great with the RBP. In other news. Another Moroso coolant expansion tank has failed on me. Right on the weld like the first one. Ordered a killer B replacement. Your car looks really good man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Your car looks really good man. Thanks sir! I can’t believe I still have it. I just love the thing. It’s wild, I drove a V10 R8 yesterday and all I could think while driving it was A. The R205 Recaro in my wagon is a better drivers seat and B. The thing felt pretty much the same speed and power as my wagon (confirmed with some highway shenanigans). Ol girl just keeps reeling me back. It’ll continue to be a part of the fleet for many years to come. Racing my JDM Starlet in some AutoX tomorrow. Pretty excited, car is a riot to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoOne1223 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Nothing beats a Subaru! Especially one that's modified to be as fast as a V10 R8 it seems! She's looks good!! Also, give your dog (I hope it's yours lol) pets for me! All good dogs deserve pets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Front struts and mounts I went with the OEM kyb's after much back and fourth , them being in stock at the local parts house was a factor. I knew my old one where blown but o man what a difference. I'm actually glad I went this rount it's got that pillowy smooth ride I had heard described. Going to keep her full sleeper status I decided and honestly no real track use or need for tighter handling when I started thinking about it. End goal is a comfy that is faster than it should be. Going to cross post this but I tore my driver side outer CV boot and I for the life of me can't find a dyi on replacement, only inner or completely replacement, any help appreciated. Thanks Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk The cv boot replacement is very easy, messy but easy. Remove the bands that hold the boot on remove the large clip on the insided of the female housing (large triangle thing) with a pick or screw driver. Remove the balls from the cage by tapping the cage with a hammer to flex it over. Once the balls are out you can separate the shaft from the green end. There is a clip that holds the inner race to the shaft, remove that, install boot and do it all in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 The cv boot replacement is very easy, messy but easy. Remove the bands that hold the boot on remove the large clip on the insided of the female housing (large triangle thing) with a pick or screw driver. Remove the balls from the cage by tapping the cage with a hammer to flex it over. Once the balls are out you can separate the shaft from the green end. There is a clip that holds the inner race to the shaft, remove that, install boot and do it all in reverse.Thanks , do you think I can get this done without removing the ball joint I have seen people commenting on it not being nessasry but I all the diy I have seen involve removing it ? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 The cv boot replacement is very easy, messy but easy. Remove the bands that hold the boot on remove the large clip on the insided of the female housing (large triangle thing) with a pick or screw driver. Remove the balls from the cage by tapping the cage with a hammer to flex it over. Once the balls are out you can separate the shaft from the green end. There is a clip that holds the inner race to the shaft, remove that, install boot and do it all in reverse.Can you possibly point me to some pictures as well that illustrate this Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Thanks , do you think I can get this done without removing the ball joint I have seen people commenting on it not being nessasry but I all the diy I have seen involve removing it ? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk You need to remove the inner race so you can get the small end of the boot on the shaft. Not possible to do it otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Ordered more parts.... ATI super damper Knock sensor Factory Oil pan KillerB pickup and baffle Timing covers and bolts AVCS Solenoids and gears New OEM driveshaft Yeehaw, show that wallet who's boss! Looking forward to following the build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Can you possibly point me to some pictures as well that illustrate this Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk there should be some threads in suspension subforum as well as maintenance. Search is your friend. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadChrist Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 I stumbled on an open box for a QuickJack BL7000-EXT late one night... [ATTACH]291920[/ATTACH] Need to stop playing around on the computer late at night. That said, this thing is awesome. I bought a set of hockey pucks and notched them for the pinched frame (saved $75) I can get the car up high enough to roll under with my creeper, which is sweet. I went with the 7000lb one as I also have a 2011 Outback and a 2007 Odyssey which tips right at 5000lbs. The Odyssey will likely get replaced by an Ascent in a couple years or something similarly sized. So I went for the bigger one. static slam the odyssey, boi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Can you possibly point me to some pictures as well that illustrate this Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Sorry I don't. I used to be a technician and I have done way more CV boots that I would like to count. At some point you stop taking pictures of your headaches. I do wish i took a picture of one guy. He was a new tech at the Audi shop I worked at and he was covered in grease, face, shirt, up to the elbows. BTW euro axles are more difficult to rebuild than Asian cars. So you have that on your side. If this was a VW there would be one answer which is get a new one or be ready to hate your life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Time to have the wheels and tires balanced. Will drop them off at the trusted mechanic tomorrow on my way to be grandpa daycare. 7000lbs quickjacks on the lower setting. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Thanks , do you think I can get this done without removing the ball joint I have seen people commenting on it not being nessasry but I all the diy I have seen involve removing it ? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk I have never removed the ball joint when I serviced my axles. This is what I have been doing. From memory: -remove ABS sensor (10 mm bolt) -remove bracket for abs sensor on shock body (12mm bolt) -remove little bracket holding the brake line on shock body (12 mm bolt) -loosen 32mm axle nut with wife pressing on the brakes -remove both 19mm shock bolts -remove axle Not saying that's the best way, but that's what I have been doing. YMMV. Been doing this on outbacks. Not sure if it is a bit more difficult on an LGT to remove the axle from the hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 I like to remove the wheel pop out the center cap, put the wheel back on and lower the car. The weight of the car in gear will allow you to torque that sucker off. No need to get the lady involved. Now pulling an engine.... I have had the wifey out in the garage at 2 am jiggling the cherry picker when my buddy popped the motor in his 67 SS. That was before I had a compressor at home, now I give it tat-tat-tats until she comes off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Hey, she does not complain. Only takes 30 secs or less really. I forgot to mention that the above method I described assumes the wheel is already off the car and car is on jack stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 And talking about CV axles, I need to get yet another one . My front left axle is toast I think. I noticed the outer joint was stiff. Took it apart and could see that there was not much grease in it. Also noticed 'heat marks'. Added fresh grease hoping that would help. Looks like it is too late now. Gear shift wobbles under load now. Axle was an FEQ. Nice axle actually. A bit on the light side too. Once I get the new one, I will check if they put enough grease in them. I bet not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Time to have the wheels and tires balanced. Will drop them off at the trusted mechanic tomorrow on my way to be grandpa daycare. [ATTACH]291951[/ATTACH] 7000lbs quickjacks on the lower setting. is this the redneck car thread? old cars sitting without wheels? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 is this the redneck car thread? old cars sitting without wheels? Fancy redneck, those aren't concrete blocks holding that car up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now